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Old 05-18-2009, 03:01 PM   #251
GDAryder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
from the first post.

So to save $4 you are going to drive over and get a gasket that both the service manual and the original poster have warned you to replace with new?
ill take a look at it first of course. im gonna be in the city anyways.


also........about the note about throttle cables....

curiously i looked at mine yesterday and my CC cable is tight as all hell, the throttle has some play in it. i think i may have found the reason.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:51 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ID10T_Wagon View Post

I have no idea what the 3 key turns does though.
Another function of this "Reset" is to disable your OEM alarm if you are forced to enter you vehicle with a key after it has been armed. Just cycle the key three times and alarm silences.

~Wm
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:57 PM   #253
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what is that sensor?

after going through a huge puddle of water and replacing my spark plugs and oil, my idle is rough. my mechanic cleaned it, but it still idles rough. He says i need to replace the IACV sensor and pointed to the black thing there. But i haven't been able to find that part anywhere.
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:14 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Barnie View Post
what is that sensor?

after going through a huge puddle of water and replacing my spark plugs and oil, my idle is rough. my mechanic cleaned it, but it still idles rough. He says i need to replace the IACV sensor and pointed to the black thing there. But i haven't been able to find that part anywhere.
Like #5 here?

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_5/
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:19 AM   #255
Project Barnie
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yes that looks about right. thanks rick-I!!
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:14 AM   #256
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Originally Posted by rick-l View Post

Now that's a cool looking website. Hope they get running at full speed...it looks awesome compared to Subaruparts.com or any other place like it.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:21 AM   #257
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did mine today. ... on a side note, it might be a good idea to open your radiator cap before opening. . . . as i did end up taking a green shower when i cracked the cover.
in any event, the inside was FILTHY, and cleaned up well. went back together well, and idled well afterwards. ask me again in 4 months.
thanks for the original writeup!
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:28 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNailman View Post
did mine today. ... on a side note, it might be a good idea to open your radiator cap before opening. . . . as i did end up taking a green shower when i cracked the cover.
in any event, the inside was FILTHY, and cleaned up well. went back together well, and idled well afterwards. ask me again in 4 months.
thanks for the original writeup!
you have any pics of the whole process? (or is it similar to the ones here already....?)

please PM with the steps you took cuz i need/want to do this mod ASAP.

thanks
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Old 06-04-2009, 05:24 PM   #259
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the original writeup is perfect. its 2 screws and two harness plugs. 10 minute job total. most of that time is spent swabbing the valve out.
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Old 06-04-2009, 05:43 PM   #260
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Indeed. Anyone ever port and polish their throttle body, nick the opening of the IACV, and have higher idle than normal? I know it's not much to worry about...just thinking out loud...
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:12 AM   #261
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I just wanted to bump this, SOA has no specs to clean this (they just replace it) but cleaning it CAN help in most cases.

Soaking in gasoline seemed to be the best method for me (I tried alcohol first). Also, you cant really clean the valve that well without first removing the plastic-bodied stepper motor. There is a rubber o-ring between the valve body and the motor, remove that. You will see the end of the drive for the valve (its magnetic). Take note of the metal tab thats on the magnet, as it will help with reassembly. This piece should turn freely (spin very easily) if not, chances are its gunked up. There is also an NSK bearing that the shaft passes through. This bearing is NOT sealed (i.e. its exposed to the same gunk and blow by), and it seems like that it tends to gunk up over time. However, with the way that it is pressed into the valve body, it cannot be (easily) replaced. Instead, soak the whole valve body in gasoline, and spin the shaft by the magnetic end to work gasoline into the bearing.
Clean with swabs as you normally would, focusing on the top of the blade and the two shaft ends. You will want to flush the body a few times with clean gasoline. I also filled the body with gas and allowed it to flow out through the bearing while spinning it.
Eventually, the shaft will begin to spin freely. You may notice a few spots of light interference, from what I can tell, this is where the actual valve blade sometimes nicks the edges of the valve body when spinning, but it provides no real resistance. This is from either loose tolerances on the valve body, or the bearing wearing and allowing for some transverse play in the shaft.

I also wanted to note, my car was suddenly showing a high idle, anywhere between 1100-2000 rpm, sometimes idle hunting between 1200-1700 rpm, and causing a major hesitation between 1800-2000 rpm when transitioning between an idle throttle position and throttle tip-in. The car then threw a P0519, and after cleaning just the valve body with alcohol the problem remained, and then threw the P0519 and P0507. Idle conditions also varied greatly depending on ambient and engine temperatures.

As far as hardware replacement goes, replacing the soft OEM screws with a M5 X .8 20mm SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screw) is a good idea, but make sure you pick up some new flat washers and spring washers as well. Also, be careful as to NOT over tighten the cap screws when replacing the IACV, as the threads in the throttle body are extremely soft and strip out easily. This becomes even more apparent when you replace the hardware with something harder than stock (like most SHCS are).
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:21 AM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNailman View Post
did mine today. ... on a side note, it might be a good idea to open your radiator cap before opening. . . . as i did end up taking a green shower when i cracked the cover.
in any event, the inside was FILTHY, and cleaned up well. went back together well, and idled well afterwards. ask me again in 4 months.
thanks for the original writeup!

did it over the weekend, car idles better than it ever did before. and yes, ther inside was filthy as well, you can see your throttle plate right thru it and that wasnt very clean either. loosened the CC cable as that was mostly the culprit for the throttle stickin in stop and go traffic (which i found myself in yesterday, and oddly, instead of the car getting warmer and watchin my oil temp gauge read from 195-200 degrees F, and raising to the usual 210-220 degrees, it actually DROPPED to 175-180 degrees...) and the fact that my CC cable had NO play in it and the last time the throttle stuck to 1 1/2 rpms, i pulled over, popped the hood, and just nudged the CC cable and the throttle went back to normal (aha, thats what it was)


it NEVER DID THAT BEFORE....especially not on a hot humid day lilke yesterday afternoon. i think i may have fixed my problem once and for all


also on another note, DONT USE ALCOHOL to clean the area of the gasket. use MAF or Brake cleaner as these are actual solvents used to clean automotive parts (and not your face roflmmfao). maybe thats why you guys have codes popping left and right. geniuses.


on another note, the throttle response has also improved some too. its funny how the little things make the biggesst difference on a car.


so yes to anyone trying this make sure both your cables (unless you are DBW) have decent play/slack in the cables or else a sticky throttle or EPIC FAIL may plague you in traffic one day.
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:55 AM   #263
James Gt EB
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very interesting thread, thank you,
I have been experiencing idling issues for a while and have thought it was an ecu bug (Im using a Link programmable ecu), this may be were my problem lies but I dont recognize the parts from your photos, the same area on my car looks different ..??? I have MY00 GC8 Impreza. (Classic GT shape)
Not sure how to post pics on this forum yet..???
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:49 AM   #264
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something else to add:

turning the ignition on/off three times does nothing. loosen both cables (if both are too tight) so that there is an ample amount of slack, lube them up a bit, replace and clean gasket (with MAF/Brake cleaner, NOT rubbing alcohol idk what fool came up with that idea). start car, check for any leak. if you did it correctly, your car will idle better than EVER before and even have some improved throttle response.

^^as far as your issue check your throttle cables to see how much play you have, that might be the cause.
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:08 PM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawker View Post
my engine looks like this, where is the IACV?

note this is not my picture
anyone have any coment on this? My engine looks like that too, 2003 Impreza TS. where is the IAVC?
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:50 PM   #266
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it could possibly right under that fixture where the throttle body meets the air filter.
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:18 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDAryder View Post
it could possibly right under that fixture where the throttle body meets the air filter.

Or it could not have one? Or at least one not easily accessible? My friend's 2006 WRX doesn't have one, but that's because he's drive-by-wire not throttle like me... what are the NA RS's?
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:42 PM   #268
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First of all.

Great post.
My IACV is a different type than the one depicted in the pictures but reading through this post was very helpful for me as an inspiration to clean my IACV :-)

I am new in here and may be a slight misfit.. Driving a Legacy and living in Europe :-) But I feel I wanna add something here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eXotek View Post
anyone have any coment on this? My engine looks like that too, 2003 Impreza TS. where is the IAVC?
The IACV is the unit found on top of the throttle body right after the air filter.
it's the one with a blue label in the picture.

I just cleaned the IACV on my 2000 Legacy Stationcar.
I used alcohol and cotton swabs.
I took some pictures with my phone and if anyone wants to see I'll upload them somewhere.
On this model there is no need for any gaskets. There is a small rubber ring on the IACV and that should be reusable.
However, be careful with the screws. I used a flat-head screwdriver as mentioned in the first post. The screws were quite stuck so I soaked them in WD40 for a while before being able to loosen them without using too much force.

I can recommend the job!
I have only had very short trips in the car since I did it so I am still uncertain of the actual outcome but I do believe I gained not only better idling from it.

I was feeling lots of vibrations in the car while idling, the rpms would stay solid (most of the time..) but I would still feel the car shaking a lot.
And when driving at very slow speed only lightly touching the accelerator in first gear the car was prone to skip and jump a bit much.
When releasing the foot from the accelerator the engine would drop to very low rpms before picking up again and settling on the idle level of approx. 700rpms.
I believe that cleaning the IACV helped on all above mentioned issues.
Maybe it didn't quite solve the vibrations while idling but I can't really say until I have had a few more trips in the car.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:51 AM   #269
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Well I ended up getting a (gunked up) junk yard throttle body and IACV back around January. I cleaned it well and took one of the recommendations of using LPS lubricant on it. The car ran well after that and my code stayed off...until last night. I never even thought my IACV was the culprit to my newly developed lumpy idle and slight hesitation at throttle tip in. I pulled it off last night and it was practically frozen up. After filling it with carb/choke cleaner and swabbing at it a couple times it started spinning freely again. I am little disappointed at the fact that it was frozen up after only 6 months or so. I don't want to spend the money on a new one but cleaning this every 6 months isn't really something I want to have to do.

Has anyone ordered one of the rebuilt throttle bodies to see if they come with w/ a nice clean/new IACV on them?
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Old 07-24-2009, 04:29 PM   #270
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Great info from everyone. I had a very erratic idle and a P1507 code. Cleaned the IAC and it runs great now.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:18 PM   #271
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Does the 2005 STI have an IAC? I can't seem to find it
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:08 PM   #272
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Does the 2005 STI have an IAC? I can't seem to find it
no, it was discussed earlier in this thread...drive by wire cars don't have one.
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:35 PM   #273
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no, it was discussed earlier in this thread...drive by wire cars don't have one.
Thanks, I didn't read the whole thread because it was a short novel
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:52 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by Barnacules View Post
Thanks, I didn't read the whole thread because it was a short novel
I hear ya, i was just being "that guy"


BTW I tried a different oil on my IACV last time it was off. I never found the LPS2 that was mentioned earlier so I had previously used LPS1to lube it (after cleaning). Since it had frozen back up this time around I tried just good old 3-in-1 general use oil. I've pulled it twice now just to check it out and still spins freely. I'm gonna leave it alone for awhile and i'll report back if it starts to stick again. I think if it does I'm gonna bite the bullet and get a new IACV...
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:05 PM   #275
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hello erratic idle............

just got home today from my two week AT (annual training USAR) and fired the car up to be welcomed by an erratic idle going from 1.5k -2k rpm and repeating.

there was a CEL that i noticed about a week or so before i left. and plus the car has sat for roughly two weeks so ill be pretty busy seein WTF is goin on...
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