p0037 huge limp

jakedademon · 10-29-2009, 11:32 PM

Alright, just trying to get some feedback. code p0037. i took the car to the track this sunday, ran very well. 8.40s 1/8mile, no issues. fastest ive ran actually. drive to work all week, no problems, total of like 25miles. get in this evening, and i give the car some love as i leave work and the car goes limp. boosting to 19psi or so if i let it, but the car is super laggy, and very very slow, feels slower than stock, and sounds like its missing. i pull codes get a c1 misfire 301, and the 37. ive had some trouble last 2 years with troubleshooting a similar condition which can be found under some threads i started. the fix was there was no resistor or whatever in the uppipe sensor, giving my ecu false EGT readings, installed resistor, good to go, then i had a very bad clogged up midcat. removed that, problem resolved again. i have the rear o2 removed, ill have to check if its actually disconnected electrically, but a wb02 tuner reg is in its place, afrs are all jacked up because im getting rich under throttle and im usually at 11:1 top end. i did a pull and nothing that i saw on the logs from UTI or the logger on HT was off. i reset the stock ecu with the battery disco, and drove it to let the thing learn. but when i give the car like 25% tps, it goes and then falls on its face, just gets a deep intake sound and bogs. i read up on p0037 and that hasnt caused anyones car to die off after OL fueling turns on. specs are my02 with the turboxs stage 4 package, +800cc injectors, and a UTEC. all parameters and maps were still showing saved and loading. changed the OL fueling TPS threshhold to 60% up from 35% and still getting the bog and **** at 25%. im going to check spark plugs for fouling and double check with more searches, any feedback would help, anything to inspire ideas. thanks guys.

Also, the car is usually storing misfires in the ECU. its just common with this car and ive tried sorting it, but i dont know why it does it. NKG 1step. 93 oct shell. Thinking of getting a retune and a little check up at topspeed in ATL because thats where it was tuned originally. im at shaw afb now btw.

bucket7788 · 10-30-2009, 01:05 PM

I there is anything I've learned by reading, responding and finally seeing what solves most problems it is to CHECK all of your mechanical and electrical connections.

The most common problems are boost/vacuum leak related.

Can you post any logs? Before and after would be great. A learning view would be good too.

Buck

jakedademon · 10-31-2009, 05:56 PM

i cant post any logs, the car might blow up if i seriously tried to go over 3k rpm, i just got done doing the compression test, and unfortunatly the motor was cold, i didnt have my gloves, and im not taking the car 10miles to advanced, so i figured WTH. 135-140psi cold motor on 1,2,4 minus number 3, firewall passenger side right? hit 100psi 5-6 crank cycles per cylinder, TWICE each cylinder... partial throttle, all plugs in the other 3 when i was doing it. the car is running seriously, horrible,but its odd, it will just push right along, but as soon as i give it 25% throttle and it goes under any +10% load, it just goes to ****. i dont wanna do another comp test, what psi warm is bad? less than 135psi? also how can i check the injectors duty cycles or voltages? i can only see injector duty cycle for #1 or whatever right?

Front of car
135-->2|1<--135
135-->4|3<--100-110
rear of car?
This was done using actron brand tester, i know they determined my intake or exhaust cam timing had jumped on the belt last time by having one bank not hold any pressure, before they even checked the timing, with this brand it will leakdown, and they all held at that pressure. what next?

jakedademon · 11-04-2009, 04:55 PM

ok so i changed out the front o2 sensor, seeing as how a buddy let me use his and the car made signifant improvement on 2 little pushes of the gas pedal. i put his back in and ordered mine. put it in today, reset ecu, still same problem...its a bosch sensor, and its the correct one. im stuck now, i dont know what to do , unless that cylinder has failed. im going to give it a warm compression test on that cylinder when i get home from the work tonight. also i did warm engine free rev and let it idle with the oil fill cap off and not a hint of oil or smoke or anything, nothing at all. I'm stumped, also forgot to add that i got a brand new set of nkgs in it. Ideas? anything or should i take it to a subaru mechanic? the only one locally is stivers in columbia and they dont mess with the tuners much. SOA pisses me off.

bucket7788 · 11-04-2009, 08:00 PM

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879900

That's the page for a boost leak detector setup. Try it. It's cheap. It's easy.

quazimoto · 11-04-2009, 08:10 PM

P0037 is for the rear O2. I would just completely ditch it. I have an 02 and have been running with out a rear O2 sensor for almost 2 years.

jakedademon · 11-05-2009, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dumdum

P0037 is for the rear O2. I would just completely ditch it. I have an 02 and have been running with out a rear O2 sensor for almost 2 years.

The rear o2 has been removed since i installed my wideband in that location last year. i found it in a box. the car as been without it since. it ran fine, i started the car it runs like ****, i really really thought it was air getting in after the maf or something but i cant find anything. i pulled my TMIC and its not cracked or leaking, it hold air just fine. but i did find my pitch mount firewall bolt backed completely out...

anyways, i wanted to check the throttle body and it looks clean and functioning and the TPS sensor is working also, according to UTEC< its reading right. i found my oil to be low, but its showing on the dipstick, but my car reads perfect one day, low the next, and back to normal again so **** the dipstick. i dont think a quart low will cause the car to run like a cylinder is shot. i pulled timing belt covers off, and i looked at the marks, just to see if could tell something obvious, but i didnt, it looked as i rotated the cams in my head that they would line up within 2 teeth of each other, but that will have to be check by someone that isnt retarded later if needed. i dont think its a boost leak, as boost is being acheived when the throttle is up but the map load point im reaching before the car starts to act up is nothing, its doing it at like 10% throttle. i need a coil pack, so i can swap them out one at a time, i think ill do that next. THanks for feedback

jakedademon · 11-07-2009, 02:26 PM

got a coil pack from autozone.com 129.99 overnighted, swapped it into cylinder #1 and bam, first shot. no more issues, except i forgot to pin back up some plastics near my intake/foglamp area, and that is now gone, but thats minor issues, plus with new intake filter, new front 02 and the new plugs, car is VERY responsive, and pulls feel alot smoother, now for an oil change and its good to go. stupid coil pack...

11-04-2009, 04:55 PM	#4
jakedademon Scooby Newbie Member#: 157764 Join Date: Aug 2007 Chapter/Region: South East Location: FWB Vehicle: 2002 txs stg4 wrx WRB	ok so i changed out the front o2 sensor, seeing as how a buddy let me use his and the car made signifant improvement on 2 little pushes of the gas pedal. i put his back in and ordered mine. put it in today, reset ecu, still same problem...its a bosch sensor, and its the correct one. im stuck now, i dont know what to do , unless that cylinder has failed. im going to give it a warm compression test on that cylinder when i get home from the work tonight. also i did warm engine free rev and let it idle with the oil fill cap off and not a hint of oil or smoke or anything, nothing at all. I'm stumped, also forgot to add that i got a brand new set of nkgs in it. Ideas? anything or should i take it to a subaru mechanic? the only one locally is stivers in columbia and they dont mess with the tuners much. SOA pisses me off. Last edited by jakedademon; 11-04-2009 at 05:07 PM. Reason: +info

11-07-2009, 02:26 PM	#8
jakedademon Scooby Newbie Member#: 157764 Join Date: Aug 2007 Chapter/Region: South East Location: FWB Vehicle: 2002 txs stg4 wrx WRB	resolved got a coil pack from autozone.com 129.99 overnighted, swapped it into cylinder #1 and bam, first shot. no more issues, except i forgot to pin back up some plastics near my intake/foglamp area, and that is now gone, but thats minor issues, plus with new intake filter, new front 02 and the new plugs, car is VERY responsive, and pulls feel alot smoother, now for an oil change and its good to go. stupid coil pack...

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10-29-2009, 11:32 PM	#1
jakedademon Scooby Newbie Member#: 157764 Join Date: Aug 2007 Chapter/Region: South East Location: FWB Vehicle: 2002 txs stg4 wrx WRB	p0037 huge limp Alright, just trying to get some feedback. code p0037. i took the car to the track this sunday, ran very well. 8.40s 1/8mile, no issues. fastest ive ran actually. drive to work all week, no problems, total of like 25miles. get in this evening, and i give the car some love as i leave work and the car goes limp. boosting to 19psi or so if i let it, but the car is super laggy, and very very slow, feels slower than stock, and sounds like its missing. i pull codes get a c1 misfire 301, and the 37. ive had some trouble last 2 years with troubleshooting a similar condition which can be found under some threads i started. the fix was there was no resistor or whatever in the uppipe sensor, giving my ecu false EGT readings, installed resistor, good to go, then i had a very bad clogged up midcat. removed that, problem resolved again. i have the rear o2 removed, ill have to check if its actually disconnected electrically, but a wb02 tuner reg is in its place, afrs are all jacked up because im getting rich under throttle and im usually at 11:1 top end. i did a pull and nothing that i saw on the logs from UTI or the logger on HT was off. i reset the stock ecu with the battery disco, and drove it to let the thing learn. but when i give the car like 25% tps, it goes and then falls on its face, just gets a deep intake sound and bogs. i read up on p0037 and that hasnt caused anyones car to die off after OL fueling turns on. specs are my02 with the turboxs stage 4 package, +800cc injectors, and a UTEC. all parameters and maps were still showing saved and loading. changed the OL fueling TPS threshhold to 60% up from 35% and still getting the bog and **** at 25%. im going to check spark plugs for fouling and double check with more searches, any feedback would help, anything to inspire ideas. thanks guys. Also, the car is usually storing misfires in the ECU. its just common with this car and ive tried sorting it, but i dont know why it does it. NKG 1step. 93 oct shell. Thinking of getting a retune and a little check up at topspeed in ATL because thats where it was tuned originally. im at shaw afb now btw.

10-30-2009, 01:05 PM	#2
bucket7788 NASIOC Supporter Member#: 124263 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Now with DB Super 16g and WI! Vehicle: 2004 WRX Wagon RomRaider + UTEC Tuned	I there is anything I've learned by reading, responding and finally seeing what solves most problems it is to CHECK all of your mechanical and electrical connections. The most common problems are boost/vacuum leak related. Can you post any logs? Before and after would be great. A learning view would be good too. Buck

10-31-2009, 05:56 PM	#3
jakedademon Scooby Newbie Member#: 157764 Join Date: Aug 2007 Chapter/Region: South East Location: FWB Vehicle: 2002 txs stg4 wrx WRB	i cant post any logs, the car might blow up if i seriously tried to go over 3k rpm, i just got done doing the compression test, and unfortunatly the motor was cold, i didnt have my gloves, and im not taking the car 10miles to advanced, so i figured WTH. 135-140psi cold motor on 1,2,4 minus number 3, firewall passenger side right? hit 100psi 5-6 crank cycles per cylinder, TWICE each cylinder... partial throttle, all plugs in the other 3 when i was doing it. the car is running seriously, horrible,but its odd, it will just push right along, but as soon as i give it 25% throttle and it goes under any +10% load, it just goes to ****. i dont wanna do another comp test, what psi warm is bad? less than 135psi? also how can i check the injectors duty cycles or voltages? i can only see injector duty cycle for #1 or whatever right? Front of car 135-->2\|1<--135 135-->4\|3<--100-110 rear of car? This was done using actron brand tester, i know they determined my intake or exhaust cam timing had jumped on the belt last time by having one bank not hold any pressure, before they even checked the timing, with this brand it will leakdown, and they all held at that pressure. what next?

11-04-2009, 08:00 PM	#5
bucket7788 NASIOC Supporter Member#: 124263 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Now with DB Super 16g and WI! Vehicle: 2004 WRX Wagon RomRaider + UTEC Tuned	http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879900 That's the page for a boost leak detector setup. Try it. It's cheap. It's easy.

11-04-2009, 08:10 PM	#6
quazimoto NASIOC Supporter Member#: 70395 Join Date: Sep 2004 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Midland,Va Vehicle: 02 wrx whitey	P0037 is for the rear O2. I would just completely ditch it. I have an 02 and have been running with out a rear O2 sensor for almost 2 years.