Lights keep burning out

stu1811 · 11-03-2009, 09:30 AM

Last year I smashed in my passenger front. Had to replace hood, fender, bumper, and radiator support. Ever since then both low beams and both fogs regularily burn out. The bulbs often have a black bubble. Overheating? I need to get under the car and poke around. What should I be looking for? Why is it affecting both driver and passenger lights?

Mulder · 11-03-2009, 09:38 AM

Put a voltmeter across the battery while the engine is running. At operating temperature you should see about 14V max. If it's much higher, especially if it's 15V+, the voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Excessively high voltage will cause bulbs to burn out prematurely/frequently.
This may be related to the damage or it could be coincidental.
Too-high voltage will damage the battery as well, so if you find this to be the case the battery should be checked and replaced if needed. The overvoltage will cause overcharging and boiling of the electrolyte, so fluid coming out of the battery is a visual clue.

stu1811 · 11-03-2009, 09:49 AM

I replaced the battery over the summer. Stocker wouldn't hold a charge. My audio system might be putting too much strain on the alternator. Carputer + 4 channel amp + mono sub amp. I'll post the voltage when I get home.

Edit: new battery is optima redtop

Mulder · 11-03-2009, 11:10 AM

The Optimas, and other sealed/AGM type batteries, will be permanently damaged by overcharging as any lost electrolyte cannot be replaced. Optima specifies a maximum charging voltage of 15V. So, if you find that you've been running at a higher voltage for any length of time, your Optima may need to be replaced.

stu1811 · 11-03-2009, 01:21 PM

According to tactrix cable, voltage holds at 14v at idle. I'll verify with a multimeter later.

stu1811 · 11-03-2009, 06:13 PM

14.08v at idle. Just measured with multimeter.

Cougar4 · 11-03-2009, 07:32 PM

Check the DC voltage at around 2,000 RPM along with measuring the AC voltage. There should be no more than .1 volts AC across the battery.

stu1811 · 11-05-2009, 09:55 AM

I measured the battery voltage via tactrix on my way to work. Max was 14.41. When I got to work I put my multimeter in the cigarette lighter and measured a voltage of 14.14 at 2k rpm.

Cougar4 · 11-05-2009, 12:52 PM

The DC voltage you measured is good at both locations. Take an AC voltage measurement across the battery if you can and see if that is okay.

stu1811 · 11-05-2009, 03:43 PM

10-30 mv ac at idle across battery and at 2k rpm

stu1811 · 11-05-2009, 03:43 PM

10-30 mv ac at idle across battery and at 2k rpm

dangerousatom · 11-05-2009, 03:59 PM

Where the mounts for the headlight assembly damaged at all? If the bolt holes or rubber bumper/slip in mounts are off, it may be allowing extra vibration in the headlight assembly. It may not be visable to the eye but it may be causing the bulb filaments to vibrate and occasionally the sections may touch witch causes those touching sections to fuse together. The more section the filament looses the brighter and hotter it gets till poof. If the headlight assembles where removed during your front end repair, they may not have been tightened all the way down or did not seat correctly?!?

Like Mulder stated it could be just coincidental crappy or bad bulbs

Water or vapor build up can cause bulbs to blow out black as well....like the tubes in a 500w flood light do

I assume your not touching the glass part of the bulbs at all when installing, for that will kill a halogen bulb quick!

Charlie-III · 11-06-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dangerousatom

I assume you're not touching the glass part of the bulbs at all when installing, for that will kill a halogen bulb quick!

+1. If your skin touches the glass, it needs to get cleaned off (the glass, not your hand).

Cougar4 · 11-06-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stu1811

10-30 mv ac at idle across battery and at 2k rpm

Well the voltages readings you took show all is well with the power. You might try a different brand of bulbs to see if that helps. I assume you aren't trying to use a higher power bulb than the normal spec'ed ones.

stu1811 · 11-07-2009, 01:09 AM

The whole front was replaced. I tried to move the headlight assembly and it seems stable. I'll try different bulbs. I've been using whatever I could find at autozone. Pretty sure they are 55w. I'm very careful not to touch the non-metal part of the bulb. I know the oil on my fingers will cause the bulb to burn out.

penusai · 11-07-2009, 01:49 AM

the glass is what you don't want to touch.

Charlie-III · 11-07-2009, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by penusai

the glass is what you don't want to touch.

Ummm....stu knows that...."I'm very careful not to touch the non-metal part of the bulb."

stu1811 · 11-08-2009, 09:22 PM

Where are the grounds for the low beams and fogs?

11-03-2009, 09:30 AM	#1
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	Lights keep burning out Last year I smashed in my passenger front. Had to replace hood, fender, bumper, and radiator support. Ever since then both low beams and both fogs regularily burn out. The bulbs often have a black bubble. Overheating? I need to get under the car and poke around. What should I be looking for? Why is it affecting both driver and passenger lights?

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11-03-2009, 09:38 AM	#2
Mulder Trust no one Moderator Member#: 11170 Join Date: Oct 2001 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NYC Vehicle: 02 WRX 05 GTO	Put a voltmeter across the battery while the engine is running. At operating temperature you should see about 14V max. If it's much higher, especially if it's 15V+, the voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Excessively high voltage will cause bulbs to burn out prematurely/frequently. This may be related to the damage or it could be coincidental. Too-high voltage will damage the battery as well, so if you find this to be the case the battery should be checked and replaced if needed. The overvoltage will cause overcharging and boiling of the electrolyte, so fluid coming out of the battery is a visual clue.

11-03-2009, 09:49 AM	#3
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	I replaced the battery over the summer. Stocker wouldn't hold a charge. My audio system might be putting too much strain on the alternator. Carputer + 4 channel amp + mono sub amp. I'll post the voltage when I get home. Edit: new battery is optima redtop

11-03-2009, 11:10 AM	#4
Mulder Trust no one Moderator Member#: 11170 Join Date: Oct 2001 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NYC Vehicle: 02 WRX 05 GTO	The Optimas, and other sealed/AGM type batteries, will be permanently damaged by overcharging as any lost electrolyte cannot be replaced. Optima specifies a maximum charging voltage of 15V. So, if you find that you've been running at a higher voltage for any length of time, your Optima may need to be replaced.

11-03-2009, 01:21 PM	#5
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	According to tactrix cable, voltage holds at 14v at idle. I'll verify with a multimeter later.

11-03-2009, 06:13 PM	#6
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	14.08v at idle. Just measured with multimeter.

11-03-2009, 07:32 PM	#7
Cougar4 Scooby Specialist Member#: 53443 Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Anchorage, AK Vehicle: 2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone	Check the DC voltage at around 2,000 RPM along with measuring the AC voltage. There should be no more than .1 volts AC across the battery.

11-05-2009, 09:55 AM	#8
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	I measured the battery voltage via tactrix on my way to work. Max was 14.41. When I got to work I put my multimeter in the cigarette lighter and measured a voltage of 14.14 at 2k rpm.

11-05-2009, 12:52 PM	#9
Cougar4 Scooby Specialist Member#: 53443 Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Anchorage, AK Vehicle: 2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone	The DC voltage you measured is good at both locations. Take an AC voltage measurement across the battery if you can and see if that is okay.

11-05-2009, 03:43 PM	#10
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	10-30 mv ac at idle across battery and at 2k rpm

11-05-2009, 03:59 PM	#12
dangerousatom Scooby Specialist Member#: 70710 Join Date: Sep 2004 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: AREA1320 Rotated 391hp FPgreen Vehicle: FAST 04STi in a 02RS PPG tranz "rally blue"	Where the mounts for the headlight assembly damaged at all? If the bolt holes or rubber bumper/slip in mounts are off, it may be allowing extra vibration in the headlight assembly. It may not be visable to the eye but it may be causing the bulb filaments to vibrate and occasionally the sections may touch witch causes those touching sections to fuse together. The more section the filament looses the brighter and hotter it gets till poof. If the headlight assembles where removed during your front end repair, they may not have been tightened all the way down or did not seat correctly?!? Like Mulder stated it could be just coincidental crappy or bad bulbs Water or vapor build up can cause bulbs to blow out black as well....like the tubes in a 500w flood light do I assume your not touching the glass part of the bulbs at all when installing, for that will kill a halogen bulb quick!

11-07-2009, 01:09 AM	#15
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	The whole front was replaced. I tried to move the headlight assembly and it seems stable. I'll try different bulbs. I've been using whatever I could find at autozone. Pretty sure they are 55w. I'm very careful not to touch the non-metal part of the bulb. I know the oil on my fingers will cause the bulb to burn out.

11-07-2009, 01:49 AM	#16
penusai Scooby Specialist Member#: 102808 Join Date: Dec 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Queens, NY Vehicle: 2002 v8 EJ207 v7 6spd FP Green	the glass is what you don't want to touch.

11-08-2009, 09:22 PM	#18
stu1811 Scooby Specialist Member#: 124651 Join Date: Aug 2006 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: RI Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon WRB	Where are the grounds for the low beams and fogs?