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Old 11-12-2009, 12:29 PM   #2501
subieslam
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did aquamist design the coolingmist gauge? they look strikingly similar.


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Old 11-12-2009, 01:27 PM   #2502
LittleBlueGT
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If they did, they sure fight a lot about it.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:18 PM   #2503
Aquamist
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It does look similar, but we didn't designed it.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:27 PM   #2504
triniscoob
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JDM )04 Sti Version 8 - do you have the wiring for the Pinout for HSf5???

thanks!
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:08 PM   #2505
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I will check - is it the same as the european version?
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:00 PM   #2506
triniscoob
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im honestly not too certin, but they are both right hand drive twin scroll engines.
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:48 PM   #2507
Aquamist
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The injectors wires normally has a pink based colour.
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:30 PM   #2508
Aquamist
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Please take a picture of the ECU back with all the wires. I will try to match it with my collections.

Here is a generic diagram that may be useful as reference:


Last edited by Aquamist; 11-14-2009 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:27 PM   #2509
666stars
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On a 2d is it necessary to have 4mm hose and 6mm
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:40 PM   #2510
Aquamist
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Yes, the 2d uses metric size hoses - you can get them from Mc Master-Carr
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #2511
Hyper
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might sound as a silly question, but I don't feel like rebuilding the pump again so better ask

2D system
Can I leave my pump installed (under fender) and connected to everything during the cold season of winter, if I don't intend to run it? temps can drop to -25* celsius
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Old Yesterday, 05:06 AM   #2512
dasnowman
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Hi how do I tell if I'm having issues with the solenoid or flow sensor... I have pressure up to the solenoid but then no pressure before the injector.
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Old Yesterday, 08:58 AM   #2513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
might sound as a silly question, but I don't feel like rebuilding the pump again so better ask

2D system
Can I leave my pump installed (under fender) and connected to everything during the cold season of winter, if I don't intend to run it? temps can drop to -25* celsius
You have two options:
1. Drain the lines and pump and leave it for the winter. You can do it by empty the tank by running the system until dry.
2. Put M50:W50 mix in the system. (good for approximately -40C)
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Old Yesterday, 09:01 AM   #2514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasnowman View Post
Hi how do I tell if I'm having issues with the solenoid or flow sensor... I have pressure up to the solenoid but then no pressure before the injector.
Solenoid:
Ground the brown wire, the valve should open

Flow sensor:
Disconnect both end and blow through it, the gauge should register full-scale. You might need a large mirror on the car seat.
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Old Yesterday, 10:56 AM   #2515
LittleBlueGT
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I have looked over the vs#10 DDS3, and I am still unclear.

Is it configurable so that there will be one pin that only goes go to ground on fail-safe activation? To be more clear, I only want the failsafe active when the unit should be flowing, but the system detects it is not flowing enough (or at all).

If this exists, then it would be as simple as one wire from the DDS3 to the test-connectors, and of course the appropriate tuning. If this doesn't yet exist, I STRONGLY suggest you make it happen.

This would make a failsafe a piece of cake to wire up, no cutting wires to get the EBCS, just one wire to the test-connectors.
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Old Yesterday, 02:57 PM   #2516
Aquamist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlueGT View Post
I have looked over the vs#10 DDS3, and I am still unclear.

Is it configurable so that there will be one pin that only goes go to ground on fail-safe activation? To be more clear, I only want the failsafe active when the unit should be flowing, but the system detects it is not flowing enough (or at all).

If this exists, then it would be as simple as one wire from the DDS3 to the test-connectors, and of course the appropriate tuning. If this doesn't yet exist, I STRONGLY suggest you make it happen.

This would make a failsafe a piece of cake to wire up, no cutting wires to get the EBCS, just one wire to the test-connectors.
The v10 has a pin (#5) for map switch, can be configured for +/- switch upon failsafe activation.

I would still advice you to go for the relay due to danger of spike and clean switching (voltage free).

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Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM   #2517
LittleBlueGT
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From HFS-1 manual

Quote:
4. MAP switching signal output:
Fail-safe output for map switching usage. This output
is about 5V and switch to 0v upon fail-safe
activation. The signal is short circuit proof with a
current limit of 5mA. If an alternative or an inverted
output signal is required. this output pin can be
reprogrammed via a set of soldering pad on the
underside of the circuit board.
Please go to page 15, section C/D for a more detailed
description of how this can be done.
So if I keep it in default configuration I can run a 12v positive lead to one side a relay, and then this 5V output (#5 MAP SW) to the other-side? I assume then the relay will remain in its normal configuration?

Then when a fault occurs it will provide 0V output. Will that now 0V output be a negative feed to switch the relay?

I know how relays work, but I always just use then as + & -. It is the whole 5V thing that has me confused.

BTW the advanced system configuration in the HFS1 manual says 8v, not 5v.




Also:

The HFS-6 has a pot for failsafe sensitivity, I don't see such a thing in the HFS-1. Is it just set to 0.3 ms?
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Old Yesterday, 04:48 PM   #2518
Aquamist
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Not quite.

Think of a relay as a switch, whatever voltage goes in will come out after activation or de-activation. No voltage change at all.

Pin #8 - normally closed
Pin #9 - common (wiper)
Pin #10 - normally opened

Pin #5 - Map switch is just a pre-configured voltage output of 0, 5v or 8V.
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