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Old 11-07-2009, 07:51 PM   #151
nightcrawler60
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Originally Posted by nightcrawler60 View Post
Fender Cowls
22mm front sway, 22-24 rear sway
Front/Rear Strut Towers.
17x8.5 +45 Wheels
245/40/17 Hankook Evos


Currently running 3 turns from full soft. Going to play with it more after alignment next Friday. As of right now I can't tell the diffrence in feeling from my last set up...AGX USDM Pinks. Guess once they settle and Im aligned the fun stuff will happen.

Anyone?
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:22 PM   #152
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:29 AM   #153
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subscribed also!!!
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:17 PM   #154
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2004 WRX sedan 81k miles
5 front/ 5 1/2 rear (still on break in period)
02-03 Swift Sport springs 185f/151r
Group N tophats front and rear(02-03)
14mm camber bolts front and rear
Whiteline adjustable rear strut tower brace
Paranoid Fabrications front fender braces
Every Kartboy bushing known to man
05 STi control arms with poly bushings
Whiteline adjustable sways front and rear
Kartboy end links
17x7.5 JDM v7's with Bridgestone RE-01R 225/45/17
Alignment spec's: -2.0 f -2.0 r 0 toe

Car feels nice and stable turn in more crisp. Will probably loosen the struts up some more after a couple hundred more miles. No clunking yet. Just got alignment done today will observe and report back if any problem arise. I'm starting to think I should have gone with a spring with higher rates but wanted to retain daily drivablility. I commute 60 miles a day right now and road seem to be getting crappier here in Cali

Last edited by murrdogg24; 11-25-2009 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:01 PM   #155
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So is the consensus the stiffer the spring rate, the more turns FFS? I know my rock hard Nexen 3000's aren't helping much. They suck!
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:11 PM   #156
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2002 WRX sedan 127,000k miles
3 FFS front/ 3 FFS rear (already broken in)
02 Tanabe GF210's 167f/157r
Front lower H brace
17x7.5 HP Racing Blitz (identical to Tenzo type M) Rock hard Nexen 3000000000 215/45/17
Alignment spec's: -2.0 F -2.0 R 0 toe

I got my eye on 235/40/17 ContiSportContact 3's.

Last edited by SVT_WRX; 11-26-2009 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:38 PM   #157
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So is the consensus the stiffer the spring rate, the more turns FFS? I know my rock hard Nexen 3000's aren't helping much. They suck!
No it's the stiffer the springs the less turns from full stiff. (FFS)
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:44 PM   #158
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No it's the stiffer the springs the less turns from full stiff. (FFS)
So you are saying the stiffer the springs, the stiffer the strut needs to be?
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:27 PM   #159
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So you are saying the stiffer the springs, the stiffer the strut needs to be?
Yes that is correct
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:54 PM   #160
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2003 WRX w/ 104,000 miles
12 turns front/8 turns rear
Swift R-Spec STi springs, around 295F/285R
Group N top hats, 02-03 Fronts 04-07 Rears
Whiteline RCA kit, Whiteline steering rack bushings
2009 Legacy wheels with 225/45/17 BFG gForce Super Sport A/S's
-1.2 camber front with 0 toe all around

I'm fairly certain I got a set of blown struts from Tokico. Out of the box the car rode like a leaf sprung 70's pickup at the recommended starting point. After 500 miles I had to adjust them to above the settings to make it barely bearable for a DD. The car loses traction if I hit a bump/pothole too fast, it feels likes I have no travel. I'm working with TiC right now to get the struts warrantied, hopefully they get here soon because my car sucks to ride in.

If anyone has any other ideas of what might be the cause of the severe harshness with this setup, please chime in!
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:05 PM   #161
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Well, first off: 12 turns and 8 turns are both invalid settings. The adjuster will do nothing after 7.5 turns from full stiff (all the way in). With those spring rates you should be at something like 5 turns rear, 3 turns front.


If you want, i could take a look at it for you. I'm fairly close by (plymouth, MA).
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:08 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by sniper1rfa View Post
Well, first off: 12 turns and 8 turns are both invalid settings. The adjuster will do nothing after 7.5 turns from full stiff (all the way in). With those spring rates you should be at something like 5 turns rear, 3 turns front.


If you want, i could take a look at it for you. I'm fairly close by (plymouth, MA).
Yeah my thoughts exactly. I kept making incremental turns until I just gave up pretty much. Glad to know it doesn't go past 7.5 haha.

I'd definitely appreciate it if you could take a look. The car got only marginally better after I maxed out the turns.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:28 PM   #163
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Sure. PM sent. If you're around tomorrow, that would be perfect, if not let me know when you're around.

BTW, i'm guessing you're on the bumpstops. Don't know, though.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:28 PM   #164
SubySal
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The struts will go past 7.5 TFFS from the way I understand it. There is no stop. I read in the instructions that going past the 7.5 TFFS can damage the struts though.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:30 PM   #165
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doesn't do damage, just doesn't continue adjusting anything. You can pull the screws right out if you want (this info direct from tokico).
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:58 PM   #166
SubySal
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OK yea I just checked the manual. It just says...

.................CAUTION
Do not unscrew the adjuster too far.
If you are uncertain about the current
adjustment go back to full hard and start over.


I guess I just took that to mean damage may occur.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:33 AM   #167
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Well, it might break something if you pull the adjuster out and then drive on it, but it won't with the car just sitting there.


The adjuster is a setscrew that pushes on a rod which travels down the shock shaft into the valving. The two bits are not connected.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:44 AM   #168
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OK, good to know
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:29 AM   #169
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2004 STi 129,500 miles
Espiler GT springs 280f/230r
3.50f TFFS/3.75r TFFS
Oswald Performance light weight bumper beam
stock top hats
F/R strut barce
Kartboy, Whiteline bushings upgrade
Kartboy subframe lock bolt
-1.6 camber front/-1.6 right rear,-1.9 left rear camber. 0 toe all around
H-Brace
Fender brace

Started out with 5 TFFS for the break in period, very comfy but car felt unstable. After the break in went with 4 tffs front/4.50 tffs rear, car was still comfy to ride but felt woooly.... I tried a couple of more turns and was finally satisfied with 3.50 tffs front/3.75 tffs rear for daily driving. Future upgrade are groupe n top hats and swaybars/endlinks....
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:06 PM   #170
bzbuzz
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enigma is that...

how come handling feel is different almost everyday?
sometimes it feels really good very stable turning, sometimes i feel more body roll stuff...

maybe due to the weight difference from amount of gas....or.. the ambient temperature changes the performance of the strut?\

you guys feel consistant handling everyday?

by the way, got tokico d-spec with rce yellow set that 4f and 4 1/4 r.
with sways 24 f 24 r and lots of other bushings etc..
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:06 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceRooster View Post
2004 STi 129,500 miles
Espiler GT springs 280f/230r
3.50f TFFS/3.75r TFFS
Oswald Performance light weight bumper beam
stock top hats
F/R strut barce
Kartboy, Whiteline bushings upgrade
Kartboy subframe lock bolt
-1.6 camber front/-1.6 right rear,-1.9 left rear camber. 0 toe all around
H-Brace
Fender brace

Started out with 5 TFFS for the break in period, very comfy but car felt unstable. After the break in went with 4 tffs front/4.50 tffs rear, car was still comfy to ride but felt woooly.... I tried a couple of more turns and was finally satisfied with 3.50 tffs front/3.75 tffs rear for daily driving. Future upgrade are groupe n top hats and swaybars/endlinks....
I'm starting to get concerned that people are setting their struts way too stiff. You shouldn't be fixing body roll with strut settings. You leave that job to springs and anti-sway bars. Too stiff struts means less grip because your limiting suspension travel. Now I'm really not saying your car is on the wrong settings at all, but at the same time you want to let those springs do as much work as possible, by which I mean compress and decompress. Personally I hate the car hopping over bumps and inconsistencies because that means I'm losing grip.

Then again, the only real way to tell if they're at the right settings is on a shock dyno.
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:08 PM   #172
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I'm starting to get concerned that people are setting their struts way too stiff.
Dude, I've been concerned about that since this thread first got going.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:48 PM   #173
SubySal
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Thumbs up

I think I found my sweet spot...

I've had my struts in a while now. To refresh...
Dspecs/RCE black springs, Whiteline bars: 22mmFSB, 22-24-26mmRSB.

I have different settings for street and autocross, but the car seems great both ways as well as extremely consistent and forgiving. I use 5.5TFFS F&R for street and 3.5 TFFS FR, 4-4.5 TFFS RR for autocross. The car had been awesome. Last event I had my best finish ever. It was cold and the lot was uneven so the stiff suspended R comp cars were having issues, but I pulled off my best run ever finishing first in STX and 7th overall out of 80 drivers, not to mention a girl I had co-driving with me finished first in her class and she had never driven or even rode in the car before. BTW the rest of STX was on coilovers.

I really love these struts! After I got them I was able to install the stiffer RCE Blacks. A phenomenal upgrade from the Prodrives I was using before and almost magically the whole suspension, the whole car just came together! My points jumped from high 800's very low 900's to well into the 900's and my last points score was 974! Plus the car is just way easier to drive... no more bouncing off bumpstops during high-G turns with sticky tires. HOORAY!!
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:29 AM   #174
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Default Re: Compiling Tokico D-Specs settings

Also rolling on tokicos with rce black ,FTW!!!!! I have mine set to 4.0 tffs F and 4.5 tffs R. Going great so far can't wait till I save up for some group n hats.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:39 AM   #175
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Sweet! yea I'm running Group N's out back and Cusco camber plates up front.
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