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Old 12-16-2009, 09:34 PM   #26
betterlead13
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Question: Will this custom installation work with the new 480 Traverse feet? I know it may be too soon, but just curious if this is Tracker foot specific.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:27 PM   #27
payjota
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I just installed my rack based on this thread. Instead of using 1/4 20 I used 10-32 tap and 10-32 5/8 length bolt. I did not use the plastic feet because the bolt was not long enough. Overall I am happy with the install but the feet can move around a little bit which the tread stated is normal.

I will let you know over time and post any pics if possible.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by payjota View Post
I just installed my rack based on this thread. Instead of using 1/4 20 I used 10-32 tap and 10-32 5/8 length bolt. I did not use the plastic feet because the bolt was not long enough. Overall I am happy with the install but the feet can move around a little bit which the tread stated is normal.

I will let you know over time and post any pics if possible.
enough to be able to pull this off by hand? I want this thing to be solid. you think it would have been okay if you had a longer bolt?
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:49 PM   #29
payjota
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I think it is the tracker feet that feel that way. The base is pretty solid. One of my taps was not perfect so I will have to keep an eye on it.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by payjota View Post
I just installed my rack based on this thread. Instead of using 1/4 20 I used 10-32 tap and 10-32 5/8 length bolt. I did not use the plastic feet because the bolt was not long enough. Overall I am happy with the install but the feet can move around a little bit which the tread stated is normal.

I will let you know over time and post any pics if possible.

Can you be more specific with "move around a bit"? I don't recall mentioning that movement is normal. I was able to bolt mine tight enough to prevent any movement. You may be able to twist the feet slightly, but because the gutter piece is fairly flexible you should get a really tight hold when fully tightened.
I had one hole that didn't tap perfectly (the tapping operation was fine, but I gummed the threads slightly when trying to thread the bolt in with the feet). It's been holding really well, no issues.
Like I said in my OP, if each corner can handle a solid static test it's going to be able to handle the road test.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by payjota View Post
I think it is the tracker feet that feel that way. The base is pretty solid. One of my taps was not perfect so I will have to keep an eye on it.
Yes, the tracker towers will have some "play" in them, that is normal. Base should be pretty solid.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:15 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by betterlead13 View Post
Question: Will this custom installation work with the new 480 Traverse feet? I know it may be too soon, but just curious if this is Tracker foot specific.
This concept will work with many different products. Pretty sure the yakima feet work well too when I checked them out.
All you need is a system that can be drilled at a decent or similar diameter without structural issues, allows for access of the bolt head when installed, and mates well to the rain gutter/roof. You'll have to play around with bolt lengths.
I only posted specific equipment because it is what I thought was the best match when rummaging around the local roof rack shop...and I could post specific instructions on how someone could do the install without all the trial and error.
If you find another combination that works, please post the details and install tips.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsavage View Post
Can you be more specific with "move around a bit"? I don't recall mentioning that movement is normal. I was able to bolt mine tight enough to prevent any movement. You may be able to twist the feet slightly, but because the gutter piece is fairly flexible you should get a really tight hold when fully tightened.
I had one hole that didn't tap perfectly (the tapping operation was fine, but I gummed the threads slightly when trying to thread the bolt in with the feet). It's been holding really well, no issues.
Like I said in my OP, if each corner can handle a solid static test it's going to be able to handle the road test.

Yea the feet are secure the gutter piece I guess is what I am referring to. With the tracker kit the square bars move around easily is that the case with yours?
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsavage View Post
This concept will work with many different products. Pretty sure the yakima feet work well too when I checked them out.
All you need is a system that can be drilled at a decent or similar diameter without structural issues, allows for access of the bolt head when installed, and mates well to the rain gutter/roof. You'll have to play around with bolt lengths.
I only posted specific equipment because it is what I thought was the best match when rummaging around the local roof rack shop...and I could post specific instructions on how someone could do the install without all the trial and error.
If you find another combination that works, please post the details and install tips.
I plan to do this with the yakima landing pads/control towers set up within these next weeks im off. The 08+ WRX/STi uses landing pads #11 which attaches with 1 bolt, so I'm going with that route... OR the landing pads #7 which is meant to drill into the roof and use expanding anchors. I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:58 PM   #35
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Hey guys, I did this over my break and here are the facts, findings and results.

jsavage: if you want me to start my own thread i understand, but I just wanted all the info in this one since youre the originator. thanks for the contribution, here's mine regarding the use of yakima gear.

Gear:
- Yakima Landing Pads #11 (2 pairs) <-- these are the same ones the 08+ STi/WRX uses, so they are popular amongst the subie community.


- Yakima Control Towers w/48" bars

Tools:
- 10-32 thread tap
- 10-32 x 1.5" stainless steel socket head screws x4


- Drill + bits
- Center punch
- Measuring tools

Procedure:
1. Remove the rain gutter covers/strips to access the brackets you're going to drill/tap

2. Start with the DRIVER SIDE. The holes in the bracket are the perfect size for the 10-32 taps, so just thread those holes with the tap, slowly and do not force the tap. Use WD40 or cutting fluid to aid in threading. Every quarter turn clockwise, turn counter-clockwise to cut and remove the metal in order to not bung or jam up the tap (it could break if you don't do this).

NOTE:Make sure the tap is perpendicular to the surface, so that the screws don't thread in at a weird angle. You're going to have to eyeball it.
3. On the PASSENGER SIDE, the holes are diagonal to the holes on the DRIVER SIDE, you cant use these existing holes. What I did was I made a tool to measure the distant out from one of the little nubs within the rail.


Here you can see the OE hole and the NEW hole drilled on the PASSENGER SIDE

4. Test fit the screws to make sure they thread in fine
5. Mark the hole locations with tape like how jsavage describes
6. Drill out a good size hole for the screws through the gutter strips
7. Mount the Landing Pads


My control towers arrive Tuesday, so Ill post pics of it complete later. For now, the Landing Pads can sit on the car. They are secure, and look super sleek.

Landing pads cost $35/pair and the control towers cost $160 complete without the bars.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:42 PM   #36
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great write up OP, bugeye looks awesome
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:50 PM   #37
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I want to do this so bad... honestly just for looks... but I could see it coming in handy once in a while...
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:58 PM   #38
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The feet are really big compared to the thule trackers. Mine don't go past the channel .


I like what you did to drill more holes to line the rack up. I noticed that after I completed the job. I think I am going to fix that at some point because my fairing sits a little off on one side.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:47 AM   #39
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What is the height from the roof to the bottom of the front bar? I am curious how much lower this is than the current thule feet I have.
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Old 01-12-2010, 01:31 PM   #40
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Default Great Write up!

Ive been searching for a nice rack myself, and I think I might try this install.
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Old 01-12-2010, 01:40 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjcnv1p View Post
Ive been searching for a nice rack myself, and I think I might try this install.
Don't try make it happen. It is not that hard.
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:22 PM   #42
mjcnv1p
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Will do...Cheers!

Quote:
Originally Posted by payjota View Post
Don't try make it happen. It is not that hard.
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:44 PM   #43
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KRAZY - The more info on here the better....I was hoping someone would post a Yakima version.

Look forward to final pics
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsavage View Post
KRAZY - The more info on here the better....I was hoping someone would post a Yakima version.

Look forward to final pics
jsavage: that's what I hoped for too. here are the final pics!

FINAL PICS OF RACK!:




Last edited by krazy; 01-25-2010 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:48 PM   #45
jsavage
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Looks great. Yakima towers look a bit higher and beefier than the thule, but looks SOLID.

Are those dents below the towers from a previous rack? (Just need to clarify)
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:47 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsavage View Post
Looks great. Yakima towers look a bit higher and beefier than the thule, but looks SOLID.

Are those dents below the towers from a previous rack? (Just need to clarify)
I had a Yakima set up with the q-towers like your previous mod. Some scum decided to take a prybar to my towers and pry them off, yanking my ENTIRE set up, leaving me with the modified q-clips. it was a sad day. on the bright side, i have a completely SECURE set up now. and I dont think this could be pried off as easily.

So yea, those are dents, but not from any rack per se.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:20 PM   #47
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looks good. Happy that Subaru pretty much did it this way from the factory on the 08+ cars.....
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:21 PM   #48
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on a side note....Thule towers tend to be a bit lower than Yaki towers (I've sold both for many years) for most applications, if "keeping it low" is a concern.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:08 PM   #49
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how do you think this setup will hold down 2 bike carriers and 2- 45lbs mountain bikes ??
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:15 PM   #50
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i put money on it that the yakima set up will hold BETTER than the q-tower/q-clip method.

100lbs of gear is nothing.
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