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Old 05-05-2010, 11:58 AM   #126
Davenow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsubiemod View Post
^ LOL OK I give up. 20gs cant make 400. OK better start a new thread in the power braggin section and call out the liars

On a HIGH reading dyno, when pushed HARD, a 20G can touch 400 on pump gas.

On a realistic dyno, on pump, pushed normally, you are looking at somewhere around 360-380. On a low reading dyno, you are looking at 300-340. Yes there are dynos that read that low.

If you want a true 400, you need to be looking at a 30R.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:00 PM   #127
wrxsubiemod
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$$$$$$

best bang for the buck right now for me is to go this route with higher octane fuel. Thanks for every ones help and sorry If I sounded like such a noob im really not just wanted advice. Thanks again
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:32 PM   #128
mongoosaroo
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ahoy subiemod! for those numbers you will definetly need meth at the min. possibly larger injectors and probably some bc "272's". also on that ppb page you'll notice that there is no description of the 20g other than "special sauce" and later in pauls description says it's a td06. i see your rockin a td05 with the 7cm2 housing. the other red herrring in that thread is paul posted in there stating it's basicly a factory freak as most td06 20g's on pauls dyno (dynojet fyi, but scv is slightly higher elevation) pull about 360-370. for 400 i'd say a dom 3.0xtr minimum.
i hope some of that was somewhat helpful.
are you tuning at hb? reason i ask is jeebus's dyno reads closer to a dynojet.
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:15 PM   #129
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Dude, that was a good answer. Thank you. Im going to YIMI for a tune, they have been helpful every step of the way. I have had problems with HB speed in the past no offense
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Old 05-06-2010, 03:36 PM   #130
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none taken! differnet ways to skin a cat to get similiar results imo. pauls a very knowledgable guy and definetly knows what he is doing. from my experiance his dyno reads about 3% lower than jons (elevation) and as oppose to fuel for spooling paul prefers timing in the low end for spool up. when do you tune?
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:08 AM   #131
BirdJ77
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Have an 08 STi used as a DD. Would like to hit between 300 and 320 whp and not opposed to more if there are suggestions on some mods. Here is the info. Can anyone help me out?

1. 300-320 - whp

2. Dynojet 424 AWD in ground dyno.

3. IAG Peformance. Jorge will be doing tune.

4. Baltimore, MD

5. 93 Octane

6. Not opposed to FMIC but will be keeping stock turbo for a good while so is it really needed? If so I'm not opposed to it but like others have said, I'd like to keep the change in my pocket.

Current mods:

Cobb AP Stage 2 93 oct
Invidia Catted DP
Maddad Whisper Cat Back
GT Spec Gen II header - 2 or 3 weeks to install
Tial MVS 38mm WG -2 or 3 weeks to install
Up Pipe - 2 or 3 weeks to install
AEM CAI
1 step colder plugs
Grimmspeed 160 degree thermostat


Looking to get tuned sometime in June. Probably not going for a balls out tune as this is a DD. I also know I need the tune for EWG. Once that is installed I will be limping on a map until I can get tuned. Just looking to see some opinions on what I might realistically hit. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:43 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdJ77 View Post
Have an 08 STi used as a DD. Would like to hit between 300 and 320 whp and not opposed to more if there are suggestions on some mods. Here is the info. Can anyone help me out?

1. 300-320 - whp

2. Dynojet 424 AWD in ground dyno.

3. IAG Peformance. Jorge will be doing tune.

4. Baltimore, MD

5. 93 Octane

6. Not opposed to FMIC but will be keeping stock turbo for a good while so is it really needed? If so I'm not opposed to it but like others have said, I'd like to keep the change in my pocket.

Current mods:

Cobb AP Stage 2 93 oct
Invidia Catted DP
Maddad Whisper Cat Back
GT Spec Gen II header - 2 or 3 weeks to install
Tial MVS 38mm WG -2 or 3 weeks to install
Up Pipe - 2 or 3 weeks to install
AEM CAI
1 step colder plugs
Grimmspeed 160 degree thermostat


Looking to get tuned sometime in June. Probably not going for a balls out tune as this is a DD. I also know I need the tune for EWG. Once that is installed I will be limping on a map until I can get tuned. Just looking to see some opinions on what I might realistically hit. Thanks guys.

On that dyno- those mods with a professional tune will make those numbers.
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:57 AM   #133
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Thanks Man. I kinda figured it would but I'm nowhere near realing knowing exactly what I'm doing besides from what I read and fumble F whatever project it is. Saying I wanted to go another 20 to 30 whp what would you think would be the next logical step?
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:37 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdJ77 View Post
Thanks Man. I kinda figured it would but I'm nowhere near realing knowing exactly what I'm doing besides from what I read and fumble F whatever project it is. Saying I wanted to go another 20 to 30 whp what would you think would be the next logical step?
Higher octane, E85 or water/meth.
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:43 PM   #135
mongoosaroo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdJ77 View Post
Thanks Man. I kinda figured it would but I'm nowhere near realing knowing exactly what I'm doing besides from what I read and fumble F whatever project it is. Saying I wanted to go another 20 to 30 whp what would you think would be the next logical step?
what does a stock sti read on that particular dyno?
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:14 PM   #136
roman23pierce
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Newbie here, went tuning last nite, max out on my injectors, abt 93%, but the tuner told me dat, the injectors shown irregular figures, it cld be a prob wit the injectors or the AF sensor, coz my AF sensor shows no difference in figures, even if i go full throttle.

There's a few prob nw, my meth kit was nt performing as good, the flow aint dat good, i predict the hoses got stuck somewhere, rectify (i tink)

Then there was a knocking sound, somewhere underneath the driver seat (righthand driving), it was actually due to the 3 inch downpipe knocking onto the stock mid lateral bar (i tink dats wat they call it), rectify it by lengthen the bracket.

So due to the above mention probs, my tuner told me that he will re-tune it once everything is rectify, so guys any advise on the above mention probs?

In the beginning of the tunning, it was running well, good flow of meth, boosting at 1.55 bar, full boost at 4100rpm.

According to my tuner, if i cld run perfectly as the above mention, i cld get about 300whp. Is this true? On road tunning.

Tunning on Open source.


Mods:
Blouch Big Evo 3 16G, Tomei equal length extractor and up pipe wrap wit thermo wrap, 3 inch downpipe, (red color) Sti intake manifold, MY07 Wrx 560cc top feed injectors, sard fuel regulator, Walbro fuel pump, coolingmist meth kit, using juran funnel cool air intake through stock air box using drop in hurricane filter, TGV delete, samco hoses, titanium fuel rail, Sti dumbvalve, MY08 Sti top mount intercooler, HKS oil cooler, Blitz ATF cooler. Open Source Tuning.

Juz install 750cc DW last nite.

Last edited by roman23pierce; 05-14-2010 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:30 AM   #137
Cracka J
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Generalistically speaking what kind of power can i expect out of a VF34 turbo set up? With a 2.0

Last edited by Cracka J; 06-01-2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:25 PM   #138
junior1023
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Just seeing if anyone knows what kinda power I could/should expect from this set up onced tuned (just a ballpark?) 2002 WRX

Cobb short ram intake
SR*S catback exhaust
Invidia catless downpipe
Up-pipe (TBD)
STI topmount IC (would this even make much a difference to justify the cost?)
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:06 PM   #139
rexblake
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That's almost exactly like my stage two setup. Obviously it's going to depend on the dyno, but figure between 200-250 at the wheel.
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:57 PM   #140
TiredGXP
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I have a 10 LGT that is a DD. I'm looking for 280 to 300 whp. Enough for now at any rate, we'll see how the addiction goes .

1. 280-300 - whp

2. Airboy Road Dyno (not sure if there even is an AWD dyno in Edmonton these days).

3. Me - pending a Romraider definition for this ECU. Possibly AccessTuner Race

4. Edmonton, AB ~2,200 ft

5. 91 Octane - it's what we have around here. There may be 18 locations in the entire province with 94 octane ethanol blend; it's not common enough to risk tuning for it.

6. Want to keep the TMIC. With the low, front mount turbo on the 10 LGT, heat soak *may* be less of an issue from earlier models.

Current mods:

STi STS

Proposed mods:

TMIC
TBE (none currently available)
Coolingmist CMGS-FS water/meth injection

This is probably a project for next summer. I haven't been able to find much info on the VF54, so not sure how far that turbo can be pushed.

Thanks
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:24 AM   #141
balls2dawalls
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Sooper noob to soobies here
06 WRX TR

1. I'd like 300-350 whp reliably!!! It's my dd

2. No idea what dyno I'd be using!! I'm in central, IN though. I essentially want 100-150 whp over stock. This thing is slow!

4. Central Indy or Purdue
5. 93 octane year round
6. Definitely not opposed. I like the Perrin stealh FMIC

Current mods
3" nameless catback. No resonators 0.o super loud
Cobb intake
Stage 3 clutch
Short shifter bushings
Tien s-techs -__-

You can see my trend here. I wanna go cheap, and I wanna go fast. But obviously, I always put the bet of the best into my cars and remain reliable on a day to day basis, hence why I don't want insane amounts of power.

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Old 06-21-2010, 10:31 AM   #142
balls2dawalls
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It'd also be nice to know a good order to do my modding, that way I progress my way up and the car is never down for a long period of time, and I start experiencing my results afte each mod. Make sense? My ideas (although I know nothing) are to do STi ball-bearing turbo, DP, and up-pipe all at once. Then MBC, Cobb AP, and AFR/boost guages. Those should be some significant improvements, and this gives me time to do my little exterior mods here and there as well. I was thinking then headers/fmic/bov/fuel pump/rails/injectors. That last wave I just stated will probably be a year or two from now lol, but this wrx just seems so sluggish on stock turbo


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Old 06-21-2010, 04:54 PM   #143
gonzoactive
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Default Performance:Cost:Reliability

I thank Defiant Autospeed for their post.

Has anyone made a chart showing performance:cost: reliability to get a relative idea of how much fun I can afford?
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:49 AM   #144
knutsford
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Hey so I have a 2002 WRX and it has the following mods on it:
FMIC
Tial Wastegate
HKS Superflow Intake
Perrin Up pipe
Perrin Down Pipe
Unknown 3" Exhaust turbo back with custom axle back setup with a 4" outlet
2.0L
Stock Turbo as well.
Lowered on Perrin springs as well just fyi.

Basically I am just wondering what kind of numbers I can expect this to put down?
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:52 AM   #145
Byzantium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knutsford View Post
Hey so I have a 2002 WRX and it has the following mods on it:
FMIC
Tial Wastegate
HKS Superflow Intake
Perrin Up pipe
Perrin Down Pipe
Unknown 3" Exhaust turbo back with custom axle back setup with a 4" outlet
2.0L
Stock Turbo as well.
Lowered on Perrin springs as well just fyi.

Basically I am just wondering what kind of numbers I can expect this to put down?
Not exactly an idea setup. I would recommend removing the FMIC and the HKS intake.

What dyno?
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:15 PM   #146
Davenow
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meh I wouldn't remove the FMIC< I would just turn the boost up another 2PSI and take advantage of the cooling.

The intake, I would tune the car, and if the fuel trims are stable, I would build some sort of heat sheild for the intake, and keep it.


As for what kind of numbers, you are looking at numbers slightly over a normal stage 2 setup, assuming you run the typical 17-18PSI. With a FMIC I would run 19-20.

But at the normal boost pressures, on an semi high to AVERAGE dyno, you are looking at something in the 220-225 range. Up the boost another 2PSI and you should hit mid to upper 230s no problem (on the same dyno that is).

On a heartbreaker, more like 200. On a WAY high reading dyno, lower 240s.
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:57 PM   #147
knutsford
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Mustang Dyno at Kito Auto Sport in Seattle.

The car was like this when I got it, all I have done is get the custom axle back put on. It will get tuned next Thursday so I will be sure to post on here what it does.

If not the HKS intake? Suggestions as to what I should get?

Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:05 PM   #148
Byzantium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenow View Post
meh I wouldn't remove the FMIC< I would just turn the boost up another 2PSI and take advantage of the cooling.

The intake, I would tune the car, and if the fuel trims are stable, I would build some sort of heat sheild for the intake, and keep it.


As for what kind of numbers, you are looking at numbers slightly over a normal stage 2 setup, assuming you run the typical 17-18PSI. With a FMIC I would run 19-20.

But at the normal boost pressures, on an semi high to AVERAGE dyno, you are looking at something in the 220-225 range. Up the boost another 2PSI and you should hit mid to upper 230s no problem (on the same dyno that is).

On a heartbreaker, more like 200. On a WAY high reading dyno, lower 240s.
Well the entire strong point behind the stock turbo is it's responsiveness, something that's being sacrificed by the FMIC he's running. Somehow I doubt he's running enough boost to take advantage of the FMIC, even if he "turns it up 2 psi".

As for the intake, HKS intakes are of awful build quality and the filters they use might as well not even be put on with how well they work.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:23 PM   #149
knutsford
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@Byzantium

Thanks the article was very helpful and informative. I had no idea Apexi was so much better quality than the other better known brands.

What are your thoughts on cold air vs "hi-flow" intakes?
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:37 PM   #150
Byzantium
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@Byzantium

Thanks the article was very helpful and informative. I had no idea Apexi was so much better quality than the other better known brands.

What are your thoughts on cold air vs "hi-flow" intakes?
You mean cold air vs short ram air? I'm personally partial to cold air intakes simply because the air is slightly cooler (with a heat shield on a short ram air it's pretty close), less engine bay clutter, and in my experience, it seems like the filter doesn't get as dirty as fast (with the splash guards in place of course).

I run a SRI right now but only because my FMIC doesn't allow for a CAI and I haven't bothered to have any custom intercooler piping made up to correct for that.

So basically the picks you want to make are a CAI or a SRI with a heatshield.

Last edited by Byzantium; 07-01-2010 at 03:48 PM.
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