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Old 08-29-2009, 11:40 AM   #51
mikercp
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After initial radiator install, I kept topping off the coolant tank by turbo , an putting coolant in the reservoir to the full mark.

Every morning i would check it while cold, and top off as needed, until the levels never dropped.

System was burped at dealership and they did a pressure test to check for leaks.
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:25 PM   #52
Xenri
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I just dropped in a mishimoto alum radiator. I used a t splitter to solve the whole second cap thing, and refilled it with 50/50 subie coolant. Everything APPEARS to be hooked up right and solid, but as soon as I took her out for a test drive, the temp shot up past the 3/4 mark. I let it cool off, drove it home slowly, and the temp stayed just under half like it's supposed to. When I got home, she was smoking like there was no tomorrow. Checked for leaks and couldn't find anything obvious, but the resevoir tank was almost totally empty.

I only used 2 gallons of water/coolant and I need to get more based on some of the posts here about after market rads. I'm also going to pick up the actual pipe for the tank. Any other ideas? She was fine before, just had a small crack in the plastic seal. Now with a new rad, it's running super hot. The fans DO work for sure as well, so it's not that. What's the deal? Any advice?
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Old 08-31-2009, 05:56 AM   #53
ride5000
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most overheating issues stem from air in the system.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:53 AM   #54
Xenri
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How long should I burp the lines? I left it uncapped and runnin for about 10-15 minutes until it stopped spurting coolant.
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:16 PM   #55
en3d
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You need more coolant. Are you actually burping the lines while running or just letting it run with the cap off?
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:14 AM   #56
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I just wanted to add that last week I did group N motor mounts. It's not that easy, without a lift, but certainly more difficult with the CXA aluminum radiator.
Because of the short lower radiator hose, i had to gradually jack the radiator, as I was jacking the engine, all the time afraid that the lower hose might burst and dump a galon of hot antifreeze on me.
If I owned my own garage, I could just wait, but because I'm working in a parking lot, I don't have time to wait.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:25 PM   #57
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i just noticed that some of the aftermarket radiators you can actually unscrew the nozzle fitting from the 2nd cap and screw a bolt in.
No need to link a second overflow tube....problem solved.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:50 AM   #58
zburt
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Default Over heating!

Hey Guys, I too recently purchased the mishimoto radiator with new gimmick hoses and 160 degree thermostat 1 month ago and almost immediately had over heating issues. After weeks of burping, filling and overheating, due to low radiator fluid I said enough is enough. I decided to go through the total cooling system to determine the problem. I had the radiator installed by a certified mechanic and he to was frustrated with the reoccurring problem. So, we took a whole day and tried to diagnose the problem. Note, the car never overheated with the stock radiator and was only upgraded to better help cool the car in its new Florida home. Car is now blowing coolant out of the radiator filler cap.

List of procedures we tried:

1.Mishimoto radiator came with a 1.1bar cap and I replaced with a 1.3bar-Same problem
2.I pulled the 160 thermostat and replaced it with the stock 180- Same problem and worse
3. Heated both thermostats on the stove in water with temperature gauge-both worked perfect
4. Flushed the whole system and refilled with new fluid/ drain petcock worked great and flow was steady-Same problem
5. Checked the fans-Working perfect
6. Checked the radiator for cold spots while car is off and at operating temperature-None could be felt
7. Checked the radiator with a laser heat gun- All readings from left to right normal 155 on drivers side and 180 on passengers side. Mishimoto verified this to be normal
8.Checked for any leaks-1bar no leaks 1.5bar it would leak at the filler tube on the compression tester fitting. Tried several different fittings and was able to push 2bars with no leaking-System air tight
9. Co2 chemical test for exhaust fumes in coolant system-Clear
10. Checked oil for antifreeze-None
11. Checked antifreeze for any contaminates-None
12. Removed upper hose and ran to confirm water pump was working-Working great and had great flow
13. Contacted mishimoto. Was asked to email everything we tried, tech was out. No response as of 10/4 but only emailed them on 10/31 and would assume the tech would be out until 10/5 and hope to get a response soon after.
14. Switched the upper radiator cap on the filler box with the radiator cap on the radiator-NO PROBLEMS AFTER 4 DAYS AND 200 MILES OF SPIRITED DRIVING TO TRY AND CAUSE OVERHEATING!

Next step was to pull the radiator and reinstall the stock radiator to see if the radiator was somehow bad. Radiators in all respects are very simple and with no radiator fin damage, leaks or blockage it is unlikely to fail or have problems. Blockage would have been the only answer and I am not going to flow test a new radiator to determine adequate flow. I will let mishimoto replace the radiator and test it for that issue.

So far the conclusion is that the 3rd radiator cap tried worked well or that the upper and lower combination of radiator caps worked. I no longer have coolant blow off and in return the coolant level is staying consistent and has been checked after each drive and every morning with no further overheating. Will try and keep everyone updated and hope this will help you with any of your radiator problems.

I highly recommend installing an aftermarket temperature gauge with a warning to make sure that the overheating does not cause engine damage. I did this immediately after it overheated the first time. The stock gauge works well but is hard to monitor going down the road and you will not see the 20 degree ups and downs that happen very quickly. The temp warning on the aftermarket gauge can be set to give you amble time to pull over and let the car cool down. Hope this helps!
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:55 PM   #59
ride5000
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if the physically lower (radiator) cap is the one with the lower cracking pressure, it will vent liquid coolant into the overflow when the pressure reaches the threshold.

if the physically upper (reservoir) cap is the one with the lower cracking pressure (as it should be) then it will vent air/vapor as the pressure reaches the threshold.

obviously the system should be completely filled with water, which is why the second scenario is proper.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:58 AM   #60
speaker
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Subaru Stars

This thread was very helpful. I just finished up replacing my radiator (MY02 WRX Sport Wagon) last night with the Subaru OEM part. Some things about the repair:

(1) The first radiator I got from Subaru was defective. Instead of being a rectangle it was a trapezoid. The fan bolts would not line up at that top. Subaru replaced it without question. I wish I'd thought to inspect it the first time at the parts counter.

(2) Put the overflow reservoir on after the radiator is installed. I could not get enough clearance with it mounted on the fan shroud and when I took it off the radiator literally dropped in.

(3) The fan connectors are a bitch if they've never been pulled. Needing to pull the tabs up rather than push them down where your leverage is makes the operation swearworthy.

(4) The bottom radiator hose had to be trimmed ~1" to fit. No way to get it onto the radiator without collapsing it at the bend. I shortened it at the engine end NOT the radiator end and it went right on.

(5) With caps off the radiator & turbo reservoir, I filled the radiator first and it took an entire gallon of coolant. Then I topped up the turbo reservoir and started the car. After ~45 seconds the level dropped in the turbo reservoir so I added more coolant until it overflowed the radiator filler neck. It burped a couple times and the fluid level stabilized below the port on the radiator filler neck. I replaced the caps and that was it.

No leaks, took it for a ~12 mile run and temp stayed below the mid-point. Last night in the 80's & humid. We'll see how it is over the week.
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:25 AM   #61
z&cobb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder View Post
The updated radiator on my 02-



If you get the new one from a dealer and they know you have an 02 (they'll ask for VIN), the additonal parts should be included. Aside from the new hoses to accomodate the cap, the radiator itself drops right in to replace the old one.
With the second cap, filling the system is much easier. I've done mine a couple of times, filling it slowly with both caps open, and there was no trapped air.
The radiator in my 02 lacks that improvement. But it has never given me a problem. It always required burping and rechecking it a few times.
It's another one of the original parts that have not failed. Lucky, I guess.

Last edited by z&cobb; 07-13-2010 at 09:36 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:55 AM   #62
speaker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z&cobb View Post

It's another one of the original parts that have not failed. Lucky, I guess.
Mine had ~150K on it when the radiator kacked. It failed at the top along the seams where the plastic top header is crimped to the radiator core.

One other point, my WRX has an automatic. New hoses for the ATF cooler are not included when you swap to the new style radiator. However, the original hoses were in very good condition. They are well-protected by a metal shield and I reused them needing only new hose-clamps.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:10 AM   #63
Hendo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speaker View Post
This thread was very helpful. I just finished up replacing my radiator (MY02 WRX Sport Wagon) last night with the Subaru OEM part. Some things about the repair:

(1) The first radiator I got from Subaru was defective. Instead of being a rectangle it was a trapezoid. The fan bolts would not line up at that top. Subaru replaced it without question. I wish I'd thought to inspect it the first time at the parts counter.

(2) Put the overflow reservoir on after the radiator is installed. I could not get enough clearance with it mounted on the fan shroud and when I took it off the radiator literally dropped in.

(3) The fan connectors are a bitch if they've never been pulled. Needing to pull the tabs up rather than push them down where your leverage is makes the operation swearworthy.

(4) The bottom radiator hose had to be trimmed ~1" to fit. No way to get it onto the radiator without collapsing it at the bend. I shortened it at the engine end NOT the radiator end and it went right on.

(5) With caps off the radiator & turbo reservoir, I filled the radiator first and it took an entire gallon of coolant. Then I topped up the turbo reservoir and started the car. After ~45 seconds the level dropped in the turbo reservoir so I added more coolant until it overflowed the radiator filler neck. It burped a couple times and the fluid level stabilized below the port on the radiator filler neck. I replaced the caps and that was it.

No leaks, took it for a ~12 mile run and temp stayed below the mid-point. Last night in the 80's & humid. We'll see how it is over the week.
Thanks, for these tips. This thread made my install a breeze.
I bought 2 row nameless radiater from ebay seller lokakech. $125 shipped and OBX silicone hoses from Q-sport, 30 shipped. My 02 needed the update so I used the 5/16 Tee suggested in this thread. Additionally, i bought new hose clamps, I'm not a fan of OEM clamps plus they had 140,000 miles on them. The radiator was damaged during shipping, but not enough to affect function.


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Old 07-26-2010, 12:43 PM   #64
speaker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo View Post


I bought 2 row nameless radiater from ebay seller lokakech. $125 shipped and OBX silicone hoses from Q-sport, 30 shipped.
If I had not been really crunched for time I would have gone this route and saved at least $200.

My own fault as I knew I was on borrowed time with the original and I ignored it.



/burned my own ass
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:12 PM   #65
Surf WRaX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo View Post
Thanks, for these tips. This thread made my install a breeze.
I bought 2 row nameless radiater from ebay seller lokakech. $125 shipped and OBX silicone hoses from Q-sport, 30 shipped. My 02 needed the update so I used the 5/16 Tee suggested in this thread. Additionally, i bought new hose clamps, I'm not a fan of OEM clamps plus they had 140,000 miles on them. The radiator was damaged during shipping, but not enough to affect function.
Hey Hendo I may go your same route and buy that AL radiator off lokakech on Ebay. Is is still working well for you? I have the old style radiator also so I will be doing the "T" mod also. I can't find silicone hoses that cheap, nor the Q Sport place. Thanks for any feedback.
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:26 PM   #66
Hendo
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the radiator has been working great for me, and the T and hose are holding up perfectly
here's the seller that i bought the radiator from
http://stores.ebay.com/lokakech-Store
and the obx hoses. they charge more for blue and red for some reason
http://stores.ebay.com/q-sport-Online
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:31 PM   #67
Surf WRaX
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Thanks. I did find the Q-sport place and got the yellow silicone hoses and they look nice. I ended up buying my radiator from Boostmasters for $100 shipped on Ebay. I'll report back with how the installation goes.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:49 PM   #68
ict-wrx
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I just bought a obx racing alum radiator and the first thing i noticed was it had another radiatoer cap on the main rad, and a overflow nipple coming out the side. i thought i was going to have to "T" off the original overflow from the upper tank but i guess now i see to just pick up the updated tube and hoses from the dealer when i go buy antifreeze right? apparently all newer aftermarket and stock radiators are that 2 filling point/cap design?
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:23 PM   #69
txl146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_Racer69 View Post
One other thing. The connectors for the fans are pull connectors not push connectors. I fought with this at first. The look like you would push on the tab to release the elec. connector. But you actually pull it up with your finger and release it. That took way too long for my being dense.
And just get a 5/16" tee and hose and that will allow you use all the original pieces on your new rad. Mine was the same way, I put the tee in the middle of the old return line. And hooked the one from the cap nipple to the tee, works perfect.

Travis

Picture of said Tee

Very nice. I am going to be installing Koyo radiator with neck filler. Will make sure to do the same!
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:26 PM   #70
txl146
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I installed OEM replacement Koyo radiator ($135 shipped from Amazon) with neck filler on my 2002 WRX tonight.

Everything went well except that hard pipe had to be bent in order to clear the cap/neck. I have temporarily capped the nipple, but plan to reroute it later.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:32 PM   #71
akdmx
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I have a relevant question and don't want to be told to "search".

Question: why does everyone seem to T-in the additional hose? I'm considering cutting a second hole in the overflow bottle and just stuffing the second hose in there. I'm not intimately familiar with the cooling system so I figured I'd post this idea up for criticism before executing. Do people do the T because they think it looks cleaner or is it functionally different than running two hoses in to the overflow?

Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:11 PM   #72
tomofo
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I did what you are suggesting when I replaced my radiator a year ago. No problems. I think it's just a preference.
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