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Old 12-21-2010, 02:19 AM   #276
Corinator
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Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
I'm not arguing that it's dangerous, but I'm not sure if its far more dangerous. At least not in the eyes of the US Department of Transportation. In their analysis, they found that all type of fiber re-enforced composites can be can be extremely toxic/carcinogenic, but in most cases, its the physical geometry of the fiber with poses a threat, rather than it's chemical composition. (Though they note that there are some varieties of carbon fiber which did show a basis for being more toxic due to the chemicals uses in bonding of the fibers.)





Much of the information on fiber toxicity comes from the study of asbestos, a major issue in the last 3 decades. This table hints at the relationship between fiber sizes in general and the effects in the body. Bad news.


http://www.tc.faa.gov/its/worldpac/techrpt/ar98-34.pdf



Either way, don't mess around with these things without proper precautions.
I be got edumacated.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:32 AM   #277
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I'm not saying you're wrong, I was just sharing what I read. They learn new things every day about these things. I wonder how many things we work with everyday that they will find out are bad news in 20 years. Like Asbestos or Mercury; both were household products that people worked, lived, and played with for decades, until they started getting sick at phenomenal rates.

It's better to err on the side of caution than anything else. I did some stupid things when I was younger that I wish I hadn't now, like spending hours climbing around fiberglass insulated attics without a respiratory mask and protective clothing or similarly, grinding/sanding aluminum for hours on end with not mask.

I guess I'll hope for the best.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:36 AM   #278
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Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
I'm not saying you're wrong, I was just sharing what I read. They learn new things every day about these things. I wonder how many things we work with everyday that they will find out are bad news in 20 years. Like Asbestos or Mercury; both were household products that people worked, lived, and played with for decades, until they started getting sick at phenomenal rates.

It's better to err on the side of caution than anything else. I did some stupid things when I was younger that I wish I hadn't now, like spending hours climbing around fiberglass insulated attics without a respiratory mask and protective clothing or similarly, grinding/sanding aluminum for hours on end with not mask.

I guess I'll hope for the best.
I was just joking around with that comment, but I once cut carbon fiber without a mask on. Felt like I had an asthma attack for like 6 hours straight.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:42 AM   #279
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Here's a picture of Pope (kp) and Jewfro (kahunaking getting ready to "cut" some "fibers" together. Good thing they have their masks on.


(random picture is random)
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:43 AM   #280
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Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
grinding/sanding aluminum for hours on end with not mask.

I guess I'll hope for the best.
At least you'll be worth a few cents at the recycle center.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:51 PM   #281
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I had a little time to complete some tasks on the wagon this weekend. First up was the installation of the Group-N motor mounts.

I will preface this by saying this was much easier with the steering rack removed. Because I was adding steering rack bushings, damper delete and new braided PS lines, I had an excuse to remove the entire rack. This also gave me the opportunity to clean the whole subframe area which was super dirty from years of off-road excursions.

The first thing I did was remove the two nuts from the motor mount studs that go through the subframe. Then I removed the pitch stop mount (getting replaced with the Kartboy unit anyway). I was then able to use some wood and a floor jack to lift the motor up about an inch until the studs were no longer poking through the subframe.

Lifting the motor:


Nut removed (14mm) and stud lifted out of the subframe hole:


Next, you remove the front and rear motor mount bolts from the block. The front ones on both mounts are easy to reach. The rears are a little more difficult, but not bad if you have a 14mm offset box wrench or similar.

Front bolt (14mm):


Rear bolt (14mm):


Once everything is unbolted, it's just a matter of wiggling the mount around until you can get it out. Try not to knock the jack out from under the motor while doing this. The new mounts go in in reverse order. Make sure to transfer the heat shields from your factory mounts to the Group-N mounts. This is not essential, but probably a good idea.

Group-N mount on the left, stock on the right:


The stock units appear to have additional heat shielding compared the the Group-N units.





Physically, the rubber portion of the mounts look identical to one another other than the part numbers molded on them. However, the difference was clear when you tried to stick your finger nail into them. You could easily deform the stock unit, but the Group-N unit was MUCH stiffer due to it's higher durometer. With some Group-N mounts, they simply add more rubber to get the desired stiffness, but in this case, they actually changed the rubber type instead.

After the install, I was examining my stockers and found that one had developed a significant crack at the point where the rubber meets the steel backing plate. It looks to me like she wasn't long for this world. Shortly before taking the car off the road, I had noticed that the shifter was moving more with acceleration and deceleration so perhaps this was the reason.

The dark black line where the rubber meets the metal is the crack. You can open and close it by squeezing the mount.


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Old 01-09-2011, 11:48 PM   #282
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As mentioned earlier, I have a lot of improvements planned for the steering setup on the wagon including:

-Rack Bushings (PolyPro)
-Braided Supply/Return Lines (Spec'd by DroppedClutch)
-Steering Linkage Damper Delete
-Whiteline Roll-Center Kit

In the interest of cleaning up the rack and surrounding areas, I dropped the rack out of the car, which takes less than 15 minutes. I also used this opportunity to inspect the rack for leaks.

Here is the front subframe with the rack removed:


The rack out of the car:


The rack was super muddy from years of offroad abuse:


It was also weeping fluid from a couple of the fittings on the sides of the rack. Honestly, I can't recall a 2nd generation Impreza that I haven't seen weeping in these locations. I tightened them all down just a bit. Hopefully this cures the issue. It's not serious, just annoying; it's probably led to the loss of less than a teaspoon of fluid in the whole time I've had the car. If the tightening does not work, I might try some thread sealer in the future.

Note the wet spots where leaks were. The clean spot was where the factory bushing was removed.


I cleaned the rack thoroughly and inspected the boots for tears/cracks. Almost every 02-03 Bugeye I've dealt with has one or both torn. Mine still looked to be in good shape so hopefully they hold up.

Next I pushed out the OEM rack bushings:






Here are the aftermarket bushings compared to the OEM units. The two collar bushings are very similar to each other in "stifness". The OEM one seems to be made from the same material, not rubber like I would have guessed. I don't anticipate that bushing swap doing much. The other bushings that go in the mounting tabs on the rack are much stiffer than the factory rubber units.



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Old 01-09-2011, 11:49 PM   #283
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Installation of bushings is straight forward. The collar wraps around the rack and I used some tape to hold it in place for mounting back on the car. The other ones are simply pressed in place. The two part design means you press one half in from each side and then push the metal tube through the middle.

Collar (passenger side):


Two-piece units (driver side):


The rack all cleaned up and ready to throw back on the car. So fresh, so clean. Looks 100 times better than before.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:04 AM   #284
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Alex (user name "amroof" on here) was awesome enough to hook me up with a set of cowl braces that he designed and manufactured himself. And he did a damn good job on them. I believe he is planning on making some more so hit him up if you're interested. Cowl braces make a DRAMATIC difference on turn in and are way more bang for your buck than a host pf other modifications that cost significantly more. On the sedans, you can also install them without removing the fenders. The wagons require just a bit more work. I had my panels off anyway.

He delivered them to me in white. I probably should have left them white, but I found a can of yellow paint and since you can't see them when the fenders are on, I sprayed them so they stand out for the pictures.



Last edited by kpluiten; 01-10-2011 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 01-10-2011, 01:21 AM   #285
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Ah, and I finally had time on Friday to stop by the powder coater's shop and pick up a few of the things he had finished. He finished all of the suspension parts and the RPM subframe brace. All were done in green. The brakes will be done along with the wheels at some point this week.

I was on the fence about the green color, but after seeing it on the parts and next to the car, it looks really good. I'm excited as hell.

If you guys are looking for a great powder coat shop, you have to give Lou a call at Section 8 Powder Coating. Tell him I sent you. He's done an amazing job so far and I can't wait to see the brakes and wheels.

Lou @ Section 8 Powder Coating
5346 S. Desert View Dr. Building #10
Apache Junction, AZ 85120
(480) 734-8372


Since I'm inept at operating anything better than a cell phone camera, I am unable to really capture the color. So I made up for quality with quantity. I'll get some in the day light tomorrow.



















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Old 01-10-2011, 01:26 AM   #286
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So far, I'm super impressed with how tough the coating actually is. I pressed the trailing arm bushings in yesterday and while the coating contacted the wooden blocks I was using to press with, the surface wasn't even marred or chipped in the slightest. Durable as hell it seems.

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Old 01-10-2011, 02:16 AM   #287
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Goddamn Ken!
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:33 AM   #288
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Seems like a lot of work. Why didn't you just pay a shop to do it all for you?
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:49 AM   #289
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Quote:
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Seems like a lot of work. Why didn't you just pay a shop to do it all for you?
This is a build thread, not a bought thread.
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:50 AM   #290
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And for the record, this has been a lot of work. But I always enjoy it.
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:05 AM   #291
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Nice job.....
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:02 AM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Alex (user name "amroof" on here) was awesome enough to hook me up with a set of cowl braces that he designed and manufactured himself. And he did a damn good job on them. I believe he is planning on making some more so hit him up if you're interested. Cowl braces make a DRAMATIC difference on turn in and are way more bang for your buck than a host pf other modifications that cost significantly more. On the sedans, you can also install them without removing the fenders. The wagons require just a bit more work. I had my panels off anyway.

He delivered them to me in white. I probably should have left them white, but I found a can of yellow paint and since you can't see them when the fenders are on, I sprayed them so they stand out for the pictures.


dam those look sick in yellow, good call! and all the parts are looking great man. let me know if you need some help. we can make more parts too

Last edited by amroof; 01-10-2011 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:08 AM   #293
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looking great ken. Those cowl braces look good. Maybe he can make some for a GF...
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:01 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinscrollGT35R View Post
Nice job.....
Thanks dude!

Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
dam those look sick in yellow, good call! and all the parts are looking great man. let me know if you need some help. we can make more parts too
Now that you are good at welding, I have some ideas... Thanks again dude.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Momosaurus WRX View Post
looking great ken. Those cowl braces look good. Maybe he can make some for a GF...
I'm sure he can. He now has a GF to test fit on.
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:29 PM   #295
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bump.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:30 PM   #296
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looking good ken! that was some good reading!!
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:05 PM   #297
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how hard are the fenders to take off? I'd like to make a set for fender braces like that, I've just been too lazy to take the fenders off.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:24 PM   #298
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Originally Posted by tobylazur View Post
how hard are the fenders to take off? I'd like to make a set for fender braces like that, I've just been too lazy to take the fenders off.
you need to take the bumper and side skirt off and its like 6 bolts that hold the fender on
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:16 AM   #299
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looking good ken! that was some good reading!!
Thanks. It's not the best write up, but I hope it's somewhat interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobylazur View Post
how hard are the fenders to take off? I'd like to make a set for fender braces like that, I've just been too lazy to take the fenders off.
Not hard at all. Took me maybe an hour to have everything off. Probably less, but those silly sideskirt pop-clips can be a PITA when they get filled with mud and junk. I just drilled most of them out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Imports View Post
you need to take the bumper and side skirt off and its like 6 bolts that hold the fender on
This.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:52 AM   #300
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Today I got home from work a bit earlier than usual so I had some time to work in the garage.

I started out by tearing the front CV axles down, removing the rust, regreasing the joints, and repainting the bearing cups. They look pretty good so far, but I couldn't get any pictures until the paint fully dries.

I also started to assemble the hubs, beginning with the fronts (easy). I had bought new front knuckles because after buying two used sets and finding both sets totally unusable, I gave up. One set was so rusty that a 20 ton press could not get the bearing cartridge out. The other set was bent from a roll over crash.

Luckly, the bearing cartridges from the bent set were is good working order and ran true so I only needed to purchase new knuckles from Subaru. $196 later I was on my way.

As I posted up earlier in this thread, I cleaned and clear coated the new knuckles. They come painted from Subaru, but the paint is thin and tends to fall off and lead to surface rust in short order. Also, there are a few machined areas that are unpainted that rust quicker than quick. With a thick coating of high temperature, clear, protective enamel, all worries of corrosion are gone. I also refinished the bearing cartridges in a similar fashion.

Here is a picture of the end result in case you missed it before:


As you can see, the 05+ STi benefits from a bolt in bearing cartridge/hub assembly. This makes replacement a breeze. The 05+ STi also has the benefit of running 114.3x5 hubs which reduce pad knock-back and larger bearings as compared to the WRX or 04 STi. The idea is that this setup is far more robust for high performance driving. The 08+ STi and WRX now have bolt in bearings on all four corners, but the WRX still runs a smaller bearing unit than the STi.

One problem I've had in the past with the bolt in bearing cartridges is that they can seize in the knuckle if they corrode too much. As I mentioned, I have a set of hubs rusted so badly, the bearing and the knuckle are now one piece and will never be separated. To prevent this on my hubs, I coated the mating surfaces with red grease. This should prevent water from entering the joint. It looks messy, but it will pay off in the future when I can remove the bearing/hub with my hands rather than a torch and sledge hammer. I also used anti-seize on the four retaining bolts. I've also found in the past that these bolts stick out past the bearing unit that they thread into and will rust after a while. This makes removing them very tedious. Anti-seize should prevent this.

This picture shows the red grease on the inside diameter of the knuckle and the anti-seize on the shaft of the bolts:


The bolts then get tightened to factory spec. Using anti-seize means you reduce the torque spec by about 20% (less torque needed to achieve the same clamping force due to reduced friction):


Next I installed the ball joints front he whiteline roll-center kit. I bought the kit slightly used which is why they are a bit dirty. THE KEY TO INSTALLING BALL JOINTS IN A SUBARU HUB IS TO USE A TON OF GREASE/ANTI-SEIZE. This design is a poor one on Subaru's part and it does not fair well with age/water/salt. I've worked on many cars where the joints were installed dry and have rusted significantly over the years of water and salt and it's easily one of the most frustrating experiences. If you want to know how terrible it can be, just take a look at this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1989958

I greased the ball joints on my wagon years ago and every time I had to remove the hub, it was as simple as removing the pinch bolt and tapping on the control arm. Cover the ball joint and paint the inside of the cavity with it.

Ball joint covered:


Hub covered:


Doing this should prevent any and all rust making servicing a joy down the line. Also make sure to coat the pinch bolt in anti-seize as well. These bolts are notorious for rusting like crazy and becoming one with the knuckle resulting in a snapped bolt when you try to remove it.

Lastly, I added the conical spacers to the ball joint stud that are required for the STi aluminum control arms.

Here is the finished product (the red/orange stuff you see is the copper flake anti-seize on the end of the bolts):


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