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Old 02-04-2011, 01:39 PM   #151
OrbitalEllipses
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IMO pressure gauge is kind of an "oh ****!" gauge. If you've lost oil pressure, you're already screwed (e.g. in the instance of a cracked oil pick up). At least oil temp provides you with a usable reading that you'd constantly be referencing (e.g. when to beat and when not to beat on the vehicle). It's personal preference; do what you want.

P.S. I really like your car and I dig your style. Your method is thorough as well, I appreciate that.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:18 AM   #152
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I did the "DIY Seat Mod" from IWSTI on Monday. Here is the link:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-inter...ing-needs.html

Basically just unhook or remove the spring/wire/mesh from behind the back of the seat. It takes about 5 minutes to do. I completely removed the mesh from both front seats. You could also use "S" hooks to simply extend the mesh.

With the mesh completely removed you are able to sink about an inch further into the seat. This makes the seat bolsters hold you quite a bit more tightly. I never thought the WRX had enough bolstering, and this simple mod makes a big difference. Highly recommended!

Sorry no pictures. The seats look exactly the same afterward.
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:59 PM   #153
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After the install of the front Kartboy Shifter Bushings went so well, I decided to grab the rear bushing when I saw one come up for sale locally.



Definitely recommend doing both at once. To install the rear one, I literally had to completely re-do the front install. For the rear bushing you have to take off the rear tranny cross brace as well as the heat shield on the midpipe. Pretty much the same amount of work as doing just the front bushing, but you will have to remove 2 additional 12mm bolts. Once you have all the bolts off, I wiggled the tranny brace out (it take some twisting and turning to get it aligned correctly to be removed). I then partially removed the midpipe heat shield. To remove it completely you would have to unscrew the O2 sensor. I just turned the heat shield 90 degrees, and there was plenty of room to work.

Some people have mentioned doing this whole install without removing the things I just mentioned. While this may be possible, I don't recommend it at all. Removing the brace and heat shield will take 10 minutes extra (and 10 more to put them back on), but it is totally worth it. It is 10 minutes of easy work, and makes everything way easier with them out of the way. Then unbolt the front bushing (and slide the linkage off the bolt), and the two 12mm bolts holding on the OEM rear bushing. Then the fun begins. I just tugged and pulled and eventually that rear bushing came off. It is really squishy and terrible. I have a new car, and it already looked like it was in poor condition.

Next is getting the new bushing on. Not much fun either. This one is much firmer, so it takes a lot more pressure. Get whatever leverage you can, but make sure you pop the bushing fully in place. You will know when you have it all the way on. After that, I got the passenger side rear bushing bolt started (just a few turns). Then I reattached the front bushing. This helped line up the rear bushing, to install the second bolt. Some people have noted this as being very difficult, but it really didn't take much work and both bolts were started. The bolts didn't turn easily, so I had to use a ratchet and basically go 1 click at a time until they were tightened down. Took a while, but wasn't hard. Once you have both the front and rear bushings in place, re-install the heat shield, and then re-install the rear tranny brace.

Sounds like a lot of work, but I had it all done in under 45 minutes. Even for a first timer, you should be able to install both the front and rear bushings in under and hour fairly easily. I do highly recommend removing the tranny brace, and the heat shield. It gives you a lot more room to work. After I installed this bushing, I also decided to lengthen my MODE shifter. All I did was increase the overall height, I did not adjust the pivot point. This made the shifter less notchy, but with both bushings installed it is very crisp. It feels like a whole new car with both bushings and a short shifter. I would highly recommend doing both of the bushings. The fronts do make most of the difference, but the feel is even better with the rear bushings installed as well.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:36 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
After the install of the front Kartboy Shifter Bushings went so well, I decided to grab the rear bushing when I saw one come up for sale locally.


Definitely recommend doing both at once. To install the rear one, I literally had to completely re-do the front install. For the rear bushing you have to take off the rear tranny cross brace as well as the heat shield on the midpipe. Pretty much the same amount of work as doing just the front bushing, but you will have to remove 2 additional 12mm bolts. Once you have all the bolts off, I wiggled the tranny brace out (it take some twisting and turning to get it aligned correctly to be removed). I then partially removed the midpipe heat shield. To remove it completely you would have to unscrew the O2 sensor. I just turned the heat shield 90 degrees, and there was plenty of room to work.

Some people have mentioned doing this whole install without removing the things I just mentioned. While this may be possible, I don't recommend it at all. Removing the brace and heat shield will take 10 minutes extra (and 10 more to put them back on), but it is totally worth it. It is 10 minutes of easy work, and makes everything way easier with them out of the way. Then unbolt the front bushing (and slide the linkage off the bolt), and the two 12mm bolts holding on the OEM rear bushing. Then the fun begins. I just tugged and pulled and eventually that rear bushing came off. It is really squishy and terrible. I have a new car, and it already looked like it was in poor condition.

Next is getting the new bushing on. Not much fun either. This one is much firmer, so it takes a lot more pressure. Get whatever leverage you can, but make sure you pop the bushing fully in place. You will know when you have it all the way on. After that, I got the passenger side rear bushing bolt started (just a few turns). Then I reattached the front bushing. This helped line up the rear bushing, to install the second bolt. Some people have noted this as being very difficult, but it really didn't take much work and both bolts were started. The bolts didn't turn easily, so I had to use a ratchet and basically go 1 click at a time until they were tightened down. Took a while, but wasn't hard. Once you have both the front and rear bushings in place, re-install the heat shield, and then re-install the rear tranny brace.

Sounds like a lot of work, but I had it all done in under 45 minutes. Even for a first timer, you should be able to install both the front and rear bushings in under and hour fairly easily. I do highly recommend removing the tranny brace, and the heat shield. It gives you a lot more room to work. After I installed this bushing, I also decided to lengthen my MODE shifter. All I did was increase the overall height, I did not adjust the pivot point. This made the shifter less notchy, but with both bushings installed it is very crisp. It feels like a whole new car with both bushings and a short shifter. I would highly recommend doing both of the bushings. The fronts do make most of the difference, but the feel is even better with the rear bushings installed as well.
How much more noise is transmitted into the cabin? I'm planning on doing only the front bushing (& trans mount) when I get my car, as I feel it's too notchy with a short shifter and both bushings. I've done a few bushing installs and while I can do it without the trans brace removed, it's much easier to take it off. Grease helps get the shifter housing into the rear bushing also.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:51 PM   #155
danrheller
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Thanks to your thread, I think we will be putting those bushings and that short shifter in The Avery Project.

Nice build, big up!
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:32 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling_death View Post
How much more noise is transmitted into the cabin? I'm planning on doing only the front bushing (& trans mount) when I get my car, as I feel it's too notchy with a short shifter and both bushings. I've done a few bushing installs and while I can do it without the trans brace removed, it's much easier to take it off. Grease helps get the shifter housing into the rear bushing also.
I noticed a little more whirr/whine at slow speeds and 3k+ rpm's while cruising (not really a normal situation, really only when I was trying to hear it). Mainly like in first or second gear. Once you get past that I don't hear it at all in my car. Exhaust/road noise is much louder so it's not something I am worried about.

Good tips on the install. I did grease up the rear bushing and that helped for sure. Without it, I would you you'd have an extremely hard time getting it on. I really don't find mine to be overly notchy with the extra bushing. The front ones really only firm up the forward/backward movement of the shifter. The rear helps to make the side to side movement feel more firm as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danrheller View Post
Thanks to your thread, I think we will be putting those bushings and that short shifter in The Avery Project.

Nice build, big up!
Thank you! I hope you like them, but I really don't think you can go wrong with these parts.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:00 PM   #157
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I got the GrimmSpeed Master Cylinder Brace today.



The brace looks great. Very high quality (like all of GrimmSpeed's products). It is really beefy, and can take all of the brake stomping you can throw at it. The brace itself does exactly what you would expect. The brake goes from mushy and inconsistent to firm and repeatable. When you press on the brakes you get the feel you expect, and the stopping power you need. Very happy with it so far.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:27 PM   #158
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Also received and installed today was the Defi Oil Pressure Gauge:





If you've been following this thread, you'll know that I have the SMY ClusterMaker Dual Gauge Pod. It is an amazing piece, but I have been running it with only one gauge (boost), and one gauge blank. I wasn't sure what my second gauge would be, but I eventually decided on oil pressure. There are a lot of useful gauges out there, but I thought the oil pressure seemed the most useful on a day to day basis. Other gauges like EGT and AFR that are good to monitor, but really matter most during tuning, and not as much once you're done. Oil temp also seems like a good option, but oil pressure will allow me to monitor pressure (obviously) as well as get an indication of oil temp indirectly, through pressure readings. Some people may disagree what the best second gauge should be, but this is what I chose, and I am happy with it.

When I was looking into oil pressure gauges my first concern was install. I initially planned on getting a sandwich adapter. Seemed like the easiest solution. But once I researched it more, easiest isn't always best (greater possibility of leaking), and it was also more expensive. After more research, and help from Kirill at RallySportDirect, I eventually confirmed that the Defi oil pressure sender has 1/8PT (metric) threads, just like the galley plug that the OEM oil pressure sensor uses (located under the alternator). And since the Defi unit is so small it would fit into the same spot as the OEM sensor. This meant I could simply remove the OEM oil pressure sensor, and install the Defi sender unit. No extra parts to buy (sandwich plate, thread adapter, relocation kit, etc).

To do the install you need to remove the alternator cover (1 bolt), and the alternator itself (2 bolts + 1 bolt connecting the power wire). Once the alternator is out of the way you can pull the wire off of the OEM oil pressure sensor. To remove the OEM sensor you will need a 24mm socket. I highly recommend using the socket instead of some other method. I attempted using a large, adjustable, open ended wrench for about 5 minutes, then went and bought a 24mm deep socket and a 10" extension for my 1/2" drive ratchet. With the socket and extension the OEM sensor literally took 5 seconds to unscrew. The Defi sender unit is larger on top, so you cannot use a socket. It is 17mm so I had the open ended wrench to fit. I put on a few wraps of teflon tape and tightened it down with the wrench. Took a while, but was not difficult.

Once the sender is in place, re-install the alternator and cover, and move on to wiring the gauge. I went through the same procedure as my boost gauge, so it was all pretty straightforward. I removed the fender liner on the driver's side and put the wire through the boot underneath. I didn't remove the wheel this time, and it was tighter work, but not an issue. Wired it up to the same fuses as the boost gauge and installed the gauge into the pod. I did pull off all of the driver's side trim (and the OEM gauge cluster) in order to get all the wires situated properly. It is not difficult to do, and makes things much easier to work with.

Once that was all done I reassembled the dash and turned on the car. The gauges both work perfectly. Oil pressure was around 100psi at idle (cold start). Dropped to just over 20psi at idle once the car was warm. Not quite sure of the pressure when cruising, but I think it was closer to 100psi, and maybe even more when in the high rpm range. Overall I am extremely happy with how the Defi gauges look in the SMY gauge pod. Spending the extra money on the Defi's was definitely worth it in my book. They look perfect, and function just as well. The response is instant, and very smooth. Installing the oil pressure gauge was not hard at all, and I definitely recommend using the galley plug that the OEM oil pressure sensor uses. If you're doing two gauges it would definitely save some time to do them both at once, and get them both through the firewall at the same time.

Last edited by xluben; 02-18-2011 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:24 PM   #159
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Nice work!
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:50 AM   #160
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You are wasting no time getting these parts on the car. We send out Tuesday, and you already have it installed Thursday. Talk about a ninja with a wrench LOL

Lets see a picture of the cluster with both gauges installed!
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:26 AM   #161
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport Direct View Post
You are wasting no time getting these parts on the car. We send out Tuesday, and you already have it installed Thursday. Talk about a ninja with a wrench LOL

Lets see a picture of the cluster with both gauges installed!
Yep, took about 48hrs after I placed the order, and I had the gauge installed on my car!

Pictures coming. Hopefully today if I have time. It was just too dark for photos last night after the install.
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:39 AM   #162
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Love this thread! How about that boost control now ? BTW I love the nomex vacuum lines you have run for the Hybrid set up!!

Will
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:42 AM   #163
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post
Love this thread! How about that boost control now ? BTW I love the nomex vacuum lines you have run for the Hybrid set up!!

Will
Boost control will be finished up whenever Nuke wants to tune me again. Unfortunately those nice silicone vacuum lines are his and will be pulled out for the final install. I'm going to e-mail you a question on hose configuration now...
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:51 PM   #164
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Hey, are you planning on running E85? I just got myself 850cc injectors with Walbro pump ready for summer E85 blend to tune it. Your thread is awsome. See you around Twin Cities.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:59 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03subyR View Post
Hey, are you planning on running E85? I just got myself 850cc injectors with Walbro pump ready for summer E85 blend to tune it. Your thread is awsome. See you around Twin Cities.
Yep, pretty much waiting for the same thing. Once the weather gets better I'm going to E85. I have the Walbro already in, and injectors sitting in my room waiting to be installed. Heard it was a real PITA so I'm not looking forward to it...
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Old 02-18-2011, 04:38 PM   #166
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Here's a picture of the gauge pod with both gauges installed:

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Old 02-18-2011, 04:51 PM   #167
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Looks amazing

Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:09 AM   #168
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To anyone who did not get the foam tape or rubber bands for installing the gauges, this is what you can pick up to use. Should be 1/2" wide and it is made of foam which is about 1/16" thick. Leave the backing on the outside of the tape so it is a friction fit (non-adhesive, makes for easier adjustment and removal, and will still stay in place perfectly).



I had been using two rubber bands on each gauge, and the fit was good, but not perfect. The gauges stayed in place fine, but if you grabbed them you could wiggle them around in the pod. I took the bands off, and installed one wrap of the foam tape. The gauges slid right back in and it was a PERFECT fit. Very tight, and no wiggle at all. Just loose enough you can still turn them to align the gauge without forcing anything, but tight enough that they feel rock solid. Highly recommended for mounting.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:16 AM   #169
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Today I finally got the red overlays on my tail lights done by Chris @ Flawless Front Ends. I got the classic red with turn signal and reverse light cutouts. Chris was great, and the work ended up looking excellent. I will try to get some photos in the next few days, but the forecast is a foot (or more) of snow tomorrow so it might be a while before the car is photo-ready again

The tail light tint has been something I have wanted to get done since the day I got the car (and even before I got it, LOL). I went back and forth many, many times between DIY paint, DIY overlays, or a professional overlay installation. I even bought paint and had the lights off the paint them before I changed my mind. In the end I'm really glad I went with Chris. They look amazing, surely much better than if I had tried to put overlays on myself, and I think they will hold up better than paint, but only time will tell.

EDIT: Photos!

Before:



After:



Some more shots:










Last edited by xluben; 02-21-2011 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:04 AM   #170
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Nice build you have going.

I'm looking forward to the snow tomorrow to test out my new tires.

Maybe see you around the cities.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:52 AM   #171
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Quote:
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Nice build you have going.

I'm looking forward to the snow tomorrow to test out my new tires.

Maybe see you around the cities.
Well you got your snow. About a foot in most places. I had to drive about 20 miles home last night at about 7-8PM. The freeways were still unplowed and my car did really well in the snow (even though it was dragging along). I never had any problems, and passed many, many people on the way home.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:22 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Today I finally got the red overlays on my tail lights done by Chris @ Flawless Front Ends. I got the classic red with turn signal and reverse light cutouts. Chris was great, and the work ended up looking excellent. I will try to get some photos in the next few days, but the forecast is a foot (or more) of snow tomorrow so it might be a while before the car is photo-ready again

The tail light tint has been something I have wanted to get done since the day I got the car (and even before I got it, LOL). I went back and forth many, many times between DIY paint, DIY overlays, or a professional overlay installation. I even bought paint and had the lights off the paint them before I changed my mind. In the end I'm really glad I went with Chris. They look amazing, surely much better than if I had tried to put overlays on myself, and I think they will hold up better than paint, but only time will tell.
I've been dying to do overlays on my tail lights since day one also. I can't wait to see the pics. What type of material did they use for the overlays? Though I'm not sure I have the skill to do it myself. I'd probably be better off leaving it to a professional.

Last edited by Stlgrndskeeper; 02-21-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:25 PM   #173
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I'd have to assume it is some type of vinyl, I believe that it what all the overlays are made of. The stuff that I got put on is 30mil thick. It is a lot thicker than what I expected. Looks to be of very high quality. I'll try go get some photos tonight, but my car has a lot of snow on it, so they might not look great.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:02 PM   #174
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Cool thanks! I'll talk to the guy that put my 3M clear bra on, he might be able to do this. No hurry on the pics man. You guys have been getting burried up there and last thing you want to do is stomp through the snow to take some pics.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:17 PM   #175
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Yeah, we got a little over a foot yesterday, and it's really coming down hard again this afternoon. Might make for a cool picture. Or it might make me cold and wet.
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