Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday December 20, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-27-2011, 11:01 PM   #1
scoobywagon06
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 216459
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
14 f150 FX4

Default

Ok SOO I broke 3 10mm allen drives and the last one I had was a little long. SOO long story short my 2nd and 4rth cylinder side are stripped out.

I can't remove my heads without these off can I.. I have a all my parts rdy to build heads and block this is holding me up.

I'll just buy new gears but if i can't remove my heads without those off I'm porked..

Anyone have a remedy inwanna finish my block this week and have my car running it's getting warm out
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
scoobywagon06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2011, 11:11 PM   #2
the suicidal eggroll
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 51961
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2005 STi
2012 WRX

Default

Drill the heads off of the bolts
Buy a 1/2" drive impact grade 10mm driver and stop using the local auto parts store cheapies.
the suicidal eggroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 08:04 AM   #3
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Drill the heads off of the bolts
This. Takes about 10 minutes per bolt, and then they will come right out. Even my 1/2" IR titanium impact wrench couldn't get these things off before I drilled them out.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 08:40 AM   #4
scoobywagon06
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 216459
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
14 f150 FX4

Default

My impact gun wouldn't budge them one of the 10mm was craftsman one was Mac and the one tht didn't break was snap-on

Explain what I'm drilling out is it the cam
Gear it's self.. I can get new gears and I have new cams
scoobywagon06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 08:55 AM   #5
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

You are drilling the bolt. Take a 21/64" bit, center it on the bolt (easy to do since the bolts already have a centering point), and drill into the bolt until the hole you are drilling is just past the base of the head of the bolt. Then hit it with the 10mm allen drive and it will come right out. Obviously the bolt will ruined, but they're cheap.

Alternatively, you can use a dremel to cut slots into the base of the bolt. You're trying to relieve the pressure on the base of the bolt head here, that is what's making them so difficult to remove. I'd go the drill route first though, as the dremel option can potentially damage the gears if you slip or cut too deep.

Last edited by RP31; 03-28-2011 at 09:01 AM.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:22 AM   #6
scoobywagon06
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 216459
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
14 f150 FX4

Default

I'll try this route. I have new cams and stuff SOO I rly don't care if I loose em.

Curious I can't take the cams off with the gears on it and replace the plastic backer and cam gears if possible, my bro works for Subaru SOO I can Prly get stuff cheap
scoobywagon06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:24 AM   #7
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

I haven't looked at heads in a while, but I think you *could* do that. Just sounds like a lot more work. I'm not sure how you'd get through the back of the timing cover with the cam gear still in place. Snips maybe?
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:32 AM   #8
Feign
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 68604
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: http://www.indianaimpreza.com
Vehicle:
06 STi
OBP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobywagon06 View Post
I'll try this route. I have new cams and stuff SOO I rly don't care if I loose em.

Curious I can't take the cams off with the gears on it and replace the plastic backer and cam gears if possible, my bro works for Subaru SOO I can Prly get stuff cheap
The problem is the caps that are covered by the cam gear.
Feign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:43 AM   #9
96convt
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182092
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
11 titan
White

Default

To get those out you need atleast 2 ft breaker bar......... impact gun just don't cut it.
96convt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:52 AM   #10
scoobywagon06
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 216459
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
14 f150 FX4

Default

Seems as if this is gunna be a nightmare
scoobywagon06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:53 AM   #11
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

No, really, just drill it out. Very easy.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 11:03 AM   #12
kpotzmann
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 215454
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SE MIchigan
Vehicle:
2005 9-2x Aero
Black

Default

Even if they come out you need to Replace these with new ones every time you remove them. Dont ask me how I know. They are $2-$3 per from the suby dealer.
kpotzmann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 12:37 PM   #13
the suicidal eggroll
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 51961
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2005 STi
2012 WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobywagon06 View Post
My impact gun wouldn't budge them one of the 10mm was craftsman one was Mac and the one tht didn't break was snap-on
It doesn't matter what the manufacturer is, if it's not impact grade it's going to snap. Believe me, I've pulled a lot of heads off of these cars. The first couple took 3-4 "regular" 10mm drives to get all of the cam bolts off, the drives just kept breaking. I finally got ONE impact grade 10mm and have taken 3 engines apart (12 cam bolts) without a hiccup. All you need is an impact grade 10mm, a breaker bar, and something to keep the cam from spinning (OEM cam wrench, or the timing belt around the crank trick).

This is similar to the one I have, but the bit length is a bit shorter on mine.
Amazon.com: Proto J7441-10M 10mm X 82.6 Hex Bits 1/2 Dr Impact Metric: Home ImprovementAmazon.com: Proto J7441-10M 10mm X 82.6 Hex Bits 1/2 Dr Impact Metric: Home Improvement


There are plenty out there that will work fine. You're not going to find any of them in your local home depot or autozone though.
the suicidal eggroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2011, 08:51 PM   #14
scoobywagon06
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 216459
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
14 f150 FX4

Default

Got them out blocks split now being hot tanked and cranks getting balanced with new rods pistons and bearings
scoobywagon06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2011, 09:12 PM   #15
LegacSTI
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273730
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Vehicle:
'98 LegNasty
White ass white

Default

I just now went through the same thing. I have matco tools, and with their 10mm allen and 6' of breaker bar (from my big jack) i walked the hex. Dammit! So i bought a forney 7/16" drill bit and drilled the exhaust cam sprocket bolts right out, easy as pie. I suspect the remaining bolt threads will come right out w/o the pressure of the gears. Now here is my question; its an '04 STi EJ257 and has avcs, the top (intake) sprocket bolts have holes in the center. Whats that for? Im afraid if i drill them out i wont be able to find "holy" bolts to replace them. Suppose i can order them, but what are the holes for?
LegacSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2011, 09:18 PM   #16
the suicidal eggroll
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 51961
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2005 STi
2012 WRX

Default

The holes are so the AVCS solenoids can pump oil into the AVCS cam gears to advance the intake cam timing.
the suicidal eggroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2011, 01:18 AM   #17
LegacSTI
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273730
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Vehicle:
'98 LegNasty
White ass white

Default

Ahhh, i see. Figured it was something to do with oil moving around. I havent torn into a motor with avcs, and the whole thing is pretty cool. Thanks for the answer
LegacSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 08:40 PM   #18
Ko3n3k3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273925
Join Date: Feb 2011
Default

I have a question along the same lines. I got the intake and exhaust cams of the left side of my engine but man the right ones are on there. I stripped out the hex on the cam shaft while holding to break the bolt free.... Its just a little stripped and I'm drilling the bolts out now. The cam is still fine to use with that little stripping of the hex portion correct. I don't see how it could possibly make a difference but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,
Ryan
Ko3n3k3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 08:45 PM   #19
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

Wait, hex on the cam shaft? I don't think the cam shafts for these engines have a hex to hold on to. What are you working on? If you mean the hex on the cam bolt, then yes, the cam is fine... You just cannot reuse the bolt.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:40 PM   #20
Ko3n3k3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273925
Join Date: Feb 2011
Default

nah man v7 EJ207 has a hex built into the cam to hold it still while you torque. It's just under the valve cover and close to the pulley. I can post a pic up in a sec.


Edit: pix https://picasaweb.google.com/1051592...MLPpJzOyNOqYQ#

Last edited by Ko3n3k3; 04-13-2011 at 09:51 PM.
Ko3n3k3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:48 PM   #21
KpT KiM
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 242422
Join Date: Mar 2010
Default

What I and friend did was weld a cut a hole in a 3ft by 3in or so piece of metal the same size as the cam bolt, weld it onto the cam bolt, and then turn. This popped it right off, plus it's nice to not worry about ruining the cams by drilling (unless you're getting new cams and buckets anyway).
KpT KiM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:52 PM   #22
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ko3n3k3 View Post
nah man v7 EJ207 has a hex built into the cam to hold it still while you torque. It's just under the valve cover and close to the pulley. I can post a pic up in a sec.


Edit: pix https://picasaweb.google.com/1051592...MLPpJzOyNOqYQ#
Yes, like I thought, not working on a factory 2.5L turbo engine, which is confusing. I don't know whether the cam is still safe to use. It probably is, but don't take my word for it.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:53 PM   #23
Ko3n3k3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273925
Join Date: Feb 2011
Default

but the cam turns when I turn the bolt. The timing belt is off .
Ko3n3k3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:55 PM   #24
Ko3n3k3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 273925
Join Date: Feb 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RP31 View Post
Yes, like I thought, not working on a factory 2.5L turbo engine, which is confusing. I don't know whether the cam is still safe to use. It probably is, but don't take my word for it.
ya for sure. I think it is to but was just wondering. I can't see why it wouldn't be but ya. I've never drilled out a bolt but I'm planning on following the above (same size bit, the whole 9) but was wondering how idiot proof/hard this is cuz I have never done this.
Ko3n3k3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:58 PM   #25
RP31
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123574
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lisle, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.6L 9:1 425WHP
CGM STi

Default

It should be pretty difficult to screw up the cam by drilling the bolt. First, you're drilling with a drill bit that has a smaller diameter than the bolt itself. Second, you should not be drilling far enough into it to get anywhere near the cam. You only have to drill to slightly below the surface of the cam pulley, which is still a good distance away from the cam.
RP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
cam gear bolts, crank bolt stuck boosted lego Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 16 04-13-2011 11:11 PM
WTB : Ej20 Intake Cam Gear Drivers Side And Cam Gear Bolts daddyphatsax304 Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 2 07-14-2010 06:37 PM
Stripped 10mm Hex Cam Gear Bolt!! HELP!! onemoreday21 Built Motor Discussion 41 11-17-2008 03:27 PM
Crank pulley bolt/Cam gear bolt Starkiller Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 1 06-17-2007 02:55 PM
stripped cam sprocket bolt limestoner Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 4 06-02-2006 09:55 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.