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Old 03-28-2011, 10:13 AM   #1
SubYotaGus
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Default From Truck Modding to Car Modding...how does this sound?

I have a 2004 toyota tacoma 4x4 and have been modding it over the past 2.5 years with all sorts of off road and truck things (lift, tires, etc) but i have had enough and have been having some problems with it so I will be switching over to an 06 or 07 WRX.

I have done some searching on this site and others for common things with the 06-07 WRX's and have looked at basic mods. This will be my daily driver and i need it to last atleast 4 years, so no racing or anything extreme and it NEEDS to be capable in snow. I was thinking for this list in this order for mild performance mods

1. Axle or Catback exhaust (Blitz)
2. Cobb AP Stage 1 Tune
3. AEM Intake
4. Stage 1+ Tune
5.Down Pipe
6. Stage 2+

Is that a correct order with the tunes and stuff? Am I missing something? Sorry for the newb thread but I'm hoping to learn as much on this forum as i did on my Tacoma one (just maybe spend less money b/c of it haha)
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:34 AM   #2
ammo0000
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That is correct. You may want to make sure that the AEM intake uses stock diameter piping otherwise it won't be safe on that tune. It should say something along the lines of "no tuning required" in the description, or I'm sure others here on the forum can tell you. Besides that, you are on the correct path. Where are you located? You should find a local tuner in your area if at all possible. You could forego the AP altogether(saving you a couple hundred dollars in the process).
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:58 AM   #3
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Just go stage2 with an opensource (custom dyno) tune from the start.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadsbc View Post
Just go stage2 with an opensource (custom dyno) tune from the start.
This^


Otherwise, you're redundantly spending your redunant money over and over again.

Just do it once and do stage 2 at your tuner who can open source tune it right there and then. An AP is fine if you are going strictly the Cobb route (which means you're buying only Cobb stuff, which is pricey) but varying from there means there's no guarantee. You're on your own.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubYotaGus View Post
I have a 2004 toyota tacoma 4x4 and have been modding it over the past 2.5 years with all sorts of off road and truck things (lift, tires, etc) but i have had enough and have been having some problems with it so I will be switching over to an 06 or 07 WRX.

I have done some searching on this site and others for common things with the 06-07 WRX's and have looked at basic mods. This will be my daily driver and i need it to last atleast 4 years, so no racing or anything extreme and it NEEDS to be capable in snow. I was thinking for this list in this order for mild performance mods

1. Axle or Catback exhaust (Blitz)
2. Cobb AP Stage 1 Tune
3. AEM Intake
4. Stage 1+ Tune
5.Down Pipe
6. Stage 2+

Is that a correct order with the tunes and stuff? Am I missing something? Sorry for the newb thread but I'm hoping to learn as much on this forum as i did on my Tacoma one (just maybe spend less money b/c of it haha)
Get a used STi if you plan to mod.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:51 PM   #6
2011WRXMT
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What problems have you been having with your tacoma?
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:11 PM   #7
SubYotaGus
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Originally Posted by 2011WRXMT View Post
What problems have you been having with your tacoma?
Vibrations all over the place. Engine and tranny are great and will prob live longer than me haha. Still a great truck, but i had the frame replacement done through Toyota and who knows what wasn't done correctly there (over a year ago). I don't really need a truck, just something that can make it through snow and even if i have to use higher grade gas, i will still save money

PS Thanks for all the advice
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:15 PM   #8
SubYotaGus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
This^


Otherwise, you're redundantly spending your redunant money over and over again.

Just do it once and do stage 2 at your tuner who can open source tune it right there and then. An AP is fine if you are going strictly the Cobb route (which means you're buying only Cobb stuff, which is pricey) but varying from there means there's no guarantee. You're on your own.

I was under the impression that the Cobb AP already had the stage 1 and two maps built in, and you just picked which one? Or do you buy the AP with the stage 1 map on it and then have to buy further maps?

Really stage 2 would be atleast 2 years into the future, I'm just looking to get the sound of a cat/axle back and the little extra oomph of the intake and a stage 1 tune in the next year
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:19 PM   #9
2011WRXMT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubYotaGus View Post
Vibrations all over the place. Engine and tranny are great and will prob live longer than me haha. Still a great truck, but i had the frame replacement done through Toyota and who knows what wasn't done correctly there (over a year ago). I don't really need a truck, just something that can make it through snow and even if i have to use higher grade gas, i will still save money

PS Thanks for all the advice
Thats pretty much why i got my wrx was better mileage. I had an 07 tundra loved it but mileage sucked so i sold it and got my rex. Although i do need a truck 3 dogs and dirtbiking so i traded a my 78 datsun 280z for a 78 chevy 4x4, now i have the best of both worlds=o)
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubYotaGus View Post
I was under the impression that the Cobb AP already had the stage 1 and two maps built in, and you just picked which one?
Yes, but neither of them work with aftermarket intakes. You listed stage 1, then stage 1+, then stage 2+ in your post, the only one of those that you could use the OTS map for is the first one, both the stage 1+ and stage 2+ means a custom dyno tune by a professional (IE: several hundred dollars each). If you're going to get a custom tune, you might as well just go stage 2 and get a custom tune via open source immediately, instead of spending $600 on an AP, then $300 on a stage 1+ tune for the intake, then another $300 on a stage 2+ tune after the downpipe.
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:26 PM   #11
SubYotaGus
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Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Yes, but neither of them work with aftermarket intakes. You listed stage 1, then stage 1+, then stage 2+ in your post, the only one of those that you could use the OTS map for is the first one, both the stage 1+ and stage 2+ means a custom dyno tune by a professional (IE: several hundred dollars each). If you're going to get a custom tune, you might as well just go stage 2 and get a custom tune via open source immediately, instead of spending $600 on an AP, then $300 on a stage 1+ tune for the intake, then another $300 on a stage 2+ tune after the downpipe.

OOO ok that makes sense. Well does in intake really make that much of a difference on these cars? I mean i'm not looking for a street demon here, modding cars is just a hobby that i enjoy. Would it be better to get the catabck exhaust then the intake and get a protune, eventually going with the downpipe and another protune? Or it it be better to just get the catback exhaust, get the AP and go stage 1 on my own, then eventually get the downpipe and use the provided stage 2 map and just forget intake?

My budget within the next year for this is really going to be around 1200 bucks so thats why I'm putting these in that order and can't just jump to stage 2. AndThanks for all the help guys, I'm learning haha
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:35 PM   #12
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Intakes don't really do much on these cars, not until you get into 300whp and higher.

It's not like an N/A car, where every psi you gain from the higher-flowing intake is an extra psi in the engine. The boost control system regulates the manifold pressure to stay relatively constant. All a more restrictive intake does is increase the pressure ratio for the turbo, which makes it generate more heat (most of which gets cooled back off in the intercooler). The end result is the charge air is just a couple of degrees warmer and the engine makes maybe 1 HP less (as opposed to an N/A car where the engine is now injesting air at 13 psi instead of 14 psi and you lose 7% of your power).
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:00 PM   #13
SubYotaGus
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well i doubt i will ever have a WRX over 300whp, too much money haha. So it would be more economical to just get the cat/axle back and then get the AP or protune then finish off the turboback exhaust and either tune it with the AP again or get another protune. Pretty much same cost
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:12 PM   #14
the suicidal eggroll
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Or get a downpipe and protune and go stage 2 immediately, then add a catback later on.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:49 PM   #15
SubYotaGus
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Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Or get a downpipe and protune and go stage 2 immediately, then add a catback later on.
Touche haha but i love the sound and would prefer to have that first. But i guess it does make more sense to just have the exhaust on then wait for the DP and get the protune for stage 2. Does the downpipe hook right up to the midpipe since it has the cat in it? I'm confused with all these pipes that aren't on my truck. Also what are the most reliable exhausts/downpipes? I like the sound of the Blitz and Invidia as well as the HKS. I'm just looking to get one that will bolt right on and isn't too pricey since its the first mod and i want it to last
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:53 PM   #16
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Honestly man, I would just by a WRX or STi, purchase a TBE, Intake, and 3-Port EBCS, then get a custom Stage 2 dyno tune. Its what youre plan is in the end, but youre going the long, expensive route to get there. Just do it all at once, you will be more than satisfied....for a little while.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:02 PM   #17
SubYotaGus
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Honestly man, I would just by a WRX or STi, purchase a TBE, Intake, and 3-Port EBCS, then get a custom Stage 2 dyno tune. Its what youre plan is in the end, but youre going the long, expensive route to get there. Just do it all at once, you will be more than satisfied....for a little while.
O I agree that would be the most logical route haha but financially that will be years down the road (poor college kid). I just want to hear the engine since its soo much better than my ****ty truck engine lol. I'm just confused with all the different piping since these cars seem to have three seperate cats and I'm not sure how many cats I will need to pass inspection in PA? From what i gathered so far tho it is best to get the cat or axle back and then just save up for the downpipe (cat or catless?) and go stage 2.

All of this is much more complicated than my truck haha
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