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Old 04-14-2011, 10:23 AM   #1
KOJAK-02-WRX
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Default DIY Adjustable Full Pillow Ball Lateral Links

VERSION 2:

After conversations with others we have decided the rod end adjustment is not the best design, thanks storm. Here is a pic of my version 2 lateral link which still has adjustment on the ends but once installed you will use the center adjuster to solve the sub frame clearance issue.

It was also brought up that the aluminum rod ends may not be strong enough and that zinc plated steel ones would be ideal and still do well in aspect of corrosion which was one of the reasons I used aluminum in the first place the other being weight.

RED = Rod End
ORANGE = Jam nut
PINK = Double adjuster
YELLOW = Suspension Tube


By kojakwrx at 2011-04-20

It uses 2 AHT12-6.00 shafts for each link with a WM40A stainless steel double adjuster in the center. If you cut 3/8" from the outside of each complete lateral link and adjust to the shortest adjustment you will have a 15-3/4" long lateral link which should be good for GC8's. It can then be adjusted with the center adjuster all the way out to 16-7/8" long which covers every lateral link size from GC8 to STi.

However this setup costs a little more then version 1 at $643.35 with all nuts and bolts. I figured it up and if I bought enough components for 3 sets then It would reduce the price down to $470 a set. At 6 it would be $452 each.

VERSION 1:

Here is the setup I am looking into making, check it out and let me know what you think. Definitely a lot cheaper then comparable setups and you get to make it yourself.

For the GC8 & WRX 405mm link (99 Foz & 05 RS) 15.75"-16.5" adjustable you will:
-Cut 1-5/16" from each end of the AHT12-15.00

For the GD STi 415mm link(Verified on IWSTI) 15.83-16.83" adjustable you will:
-Cut 1.143" from each end of the AHT12-15.00

This assumes the following measurements:
-0.560" bolt holes on all rod ends ( Check me on this, but can be adjusted easily with different insert )
-Use 14x55mm Bolts on inside bolts

Things I need to know:
-Size of Bolt that holds outsides of links to knuckle

I am no way affiliated with any of the companies used below, just giving out some information I found.

4 -ATM-12_____________3/4-16 RHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Teflon Lining_______________________________Midwest Control Products _______$18.36_______$73.44
4 -ATML-12___________ 3/4-16 LHT 7075 Anodized Red Aluminum Rod End Teflon Lining________________________________Midwest Control Products_______$20.97_______$83.88
4 -AHT12-15.00_______ 3/4-16 6061 Aluminum 1" Hexagon with RHT / LHT Tapped Ends (Cut 1-5/16" from each End)_____Midwest Control Products _______$11.35 _______$45.40
16 -MCW-12 __________3/4" Zinc Plated Steel Rod End Washer __________________________________________________ _____Midwest Control Products _______$1.71 _______$27.36
16 -RS750____________ 3/4" Rod End Rubber Boot______________________________________________ _____________________Midwest Control Products _______$1.66 _______$26.56
1 -99612A164_________ 3/4-16 x 27/64 Wide LHT Zinc Plated Jam Nut (Pack of 10)_____________________________________McMaster-Carr _________________$11.11 ______$11.11
1 -91847A555_________ 3/4-16 x 27/64 Wide RHT Zinc Plated Jam Nut (Pack of 20)_____________________________________McMaster-Carr ________________$8.09 ________$8.09
1 -1968T852__________ 3/4" OD 0.56" ID x 36" Long 2024 Aluminum Tube (Cut to 1.55" Long for each Rod End)_________McMaster-Carr ________________$45.19_______$45.19
1-____________________ Poltec Endlink Boxes w/ endlinks__________________________________________ ____________________Poltec_______________________ $169.00 _____ $169.00

Total $490.03


By kojakwrx at 2011-04-15
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Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 05-11-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:39 AM   #2
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Make sure you check the radial and axial load ratings on the bearings and go fairly overkill. I'd be a little wary of the fact that they aren't posted on the website, and the price of the rod ends is pretty low. Good bearings with tight clearances are expensive. You will also probably need to have somebody with a lathe make you bearing reducers to get the right width and diameter. You might be able to get away with finding premade reducers and having them milled down to the right width. I honestly think that once you find rod ends with the proper load ratings and it's all said and done, you'll end up spending almost as much as a set you can buy off the shelf.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:52 AM   #3
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What loads would these need to be able to hold?
This is from mcmaster but it has a static radial load capacity up to 13319lbs
www.mcmaster.com
60685K151

As far as the spacers they are the MCW-12 Washer. You need 0.3125" on each side to center the rod ends and the washer is 0.3". Only problem I see is if you add the boot it puts it at 0.362" which will not fit.

Can anyone verify the mount width for the lateral links? I assumed 1.5625" which was a measurement from a whiteline perrin set.

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-14-2011 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:05 PM   #4
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1.5625" seems about right. The subframe would allow for a little squeeze if the spacers end up a bit narrow. Here's one of my lateral links with the spacers fitted just off the lathe.


I'm moving my pickup points up by 1.5" also, so I'm using M14 bolts for all 4 of the inner pivots and ditching the cammed setup. The links are length adjustable, so toe and track setting will be a breeze.

I don't run a rear bar, so no need to add the endlink mount to the knuckle or trailing arm at this time.

Jay
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:15 PM   #5
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Yeah locking out the toe adjuster would be a good idea, I could probably take my camber bolts off the rear as well. Here is a cad of what i'm looking at:


By kojakwrx at 2011-04-15


Is the 0.584" dimension right for the bolt holes? I really want to use the rubber boots on these so might have to shave the washer a bit.

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-15-2011 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:37 AM   #6
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man! nice work guys. ill be following this thread.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:06 AM   #7
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Thanks, I hope it helps someone. I am looking into finding some 7075 to replace the 6061 turnbuckle tube that I have above. I am also looking into front and rear endlinks.


You can also trade the AHT12-15.00 for a AHT12-14.00 and cut 0.5" less on each end and be able to get the full 15.5 to 16.5" adjustment. I used the 15 since it left less unused threads since they are tapped 2.5" deep on both sides.

Also I found out that the STi links are longer then the RS links I believe 405mm (not proven but close to the 16" measurement I have) compared to 415mm (proven) so if you are making them for an STi you would want to cut only 1.14321" from each end to make the factory length at the center of the adjustment. This will make your adjustment from 15.83-16.83".

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-15-2011 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:52 AM   #8
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If you plan on keeping the original bolts for the links, they're different diameters (M12) for the inner front set. I used a 14mm (.551") drill to bore the spacers for all positions and will not be putting the M12 bolts back in. I also raised my pickup points by 1.5" so I was making new holes anyway.

0.584" will allow the bolts to pass through easily and be within acceptable tolerance for slop. On the bushing though, I'd use as close to bolt diameter as possible to eliminate slop where it counts.

FWIW, I'm using 1x12" alu center sections and 3/4 shank and hole ends, bushed down to 14mm. It may be overkill....but I don't want them breaking. If they're good enough for 700+ HP outlaw sprintcars, I think my little project will be okay.

Jay
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:23 AM   #9
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Interesting, do you think aluminum is ok to reduce the 3/4 rod ends down to the 14mm bolt? I currently have the .584 on the list but they also have a .560 that I could use.

What size bolt goes through the knuckle?

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-15-2011 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:34 PM   #10
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I think aluminum is going to stand up as well, if not better than Delrin (other than the recovery capabilities of plastic). I'll know soon enough if they develop slop in the spacers. Bolt sizes are M12 for the front inner pivots and M14 everywhere else.

Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by KOJAK-02-WRX View Post
Interesting, do you think aluminum is ok to reduce the 3/4 rod ends down to the 14mm bolt? I currently have the .584 on the list but they also have a .560 that I could use.

What size bolt goes through the knuckle?
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
I think aluminum is going to stand up as well, if not better than Delrin (other than the recovery capabilities of plastic). I'll know soon enough if they develop slop in the spacers. Bolt sizes are M12 for the front inner pivots and M14 everywhere else.

Jay
Well I think I may drill out the front to fit the M14 so I can have the same all around. Seems like there is a lot of slop in the mounting holes so M14 might work without drilling.

You don't happen to know the diameter of the bolt that goes through the lateral links and knuckle do you? I'm sure it is bigger then 0.56 so I will just drill out my spacers to match but would be nice to know ahead of time.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:02 PM   #12
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A 14mm drill will make the holes in the bushings big enough to pass the bolts through. That's what I used. I think I measured .584" ID on the OEM bushings, and 13.98mm on the bigazz bolts for the links.

Jay
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:51 AM   #13
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oh, my head.
This is so cool.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:31 AM   #14
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Yes....it is cool.....

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Old 04-19-2011, 12:37 PM   #15
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Updated OP with Version 2 lateral link with center adjustment

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-19-2011 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:06 PM   #16
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in your new pic i dont see room for the jam nuts. those are a must when using rod ends. overall i love this, i love seeing diy stuff Keep up the good work.

oh, and not sure why, but why the change? i thought your original setup would be better, as if you had them setup with a left hand and right hand rod end, you could just twist the center bar to make it smaller or longer. also parts and less stuff to go wrong.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
Yes....it is cool.....

Jay
If you look in this picture paranoid you will see that he had to cut his rear cross member in order to gain access to the jam nuts on teh inside. This is a problem on these diy setups which is why i changed to a center adjust setup.

The jam nuts are all there just everything adjusted to the shorted position. Also it still has the right and left hand threads so you just use a wrench on the very center section to adjust length just the same as Version 1, but now it is only a 1/2 wide instead of the whole length. I'll put a all the way extended drawing to show it a little better.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:44 PM   #18
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yea, forgot about that clearance. i remembered when i was running the GTSpec T brace I had to make a wrench to fit because of that damn thing lol. but good to hear you have the jam nuts in there.
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:39 AM   #19
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you could just buy these and replace the joints if they wear out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:08 AM   #20
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Yeah I am actually kind of considering those as a lot of people are using them but then they will run into the same problems with jam nut access as my first design. They use a clevis on the rear links also which these would eliminate.

I emailed Megan racing to see if they would sell their endlink boxes similar to the poltecs listed above seperately from their rear link kit. Anyone have any experience with them? From the price difference between their front and rear setups I would think they would be $100.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:53 AM   #21
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Updated Version 2 Pic to include extended measurements and a little color so you can tell what is what.

Last edited by KOJAK-02-WRX; 04-20-2011 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:04 PM   #22
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nice, i bought a set almost identical to these, just bigger heim joints, or however its spelled, and more ability to be adjusted because the sleeve in the middle is littler, they are very nice
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
nice, i bought a set almost identical to these, just bigger heim joints, or however its spelled, and more ability to be adjusted because the sleeve in the middle is littler, they are very nice
More ability to be adjusted? These adjust 1.125" without extending the rod ends which can give you another 3/8" giving you up to 1.5". Don't see why anyone would need them any longer then 17"
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Old 05-18-2011, 11:16 PM   #24
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What would the weight be?
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:16 PM   #25
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I never weighed the parts I made. They are lighter than the OEM pieces though, if that's your concern.


FWIW, I've run the car hard now, and the aluminum bushings inside the spherical ends are holding up fine. I went as far as to pull them out specifically to check for ovalling. None found thus far, but we're still very early in the lifecycle.

As far as needing to cut away the subframe to access the jamnuts, I did that as a convenience more than necessity. I very well could've left things alone and simply removed the bolt to swing that end down out of the way. I'd prefer to do that, as opposed to adding another joint in the center. YMMV


Jay
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