xluben's 2011 WRX: Spec B 6 Speed and Rotated PTE 6266

[Joker_927]

*about tinting*
I suggest you check MN laws. Here in Oregon (I'm guessing it's because of the winter weather) any AWD vehicle is considered a SUV and tinting laws are much for lax for SUVs. The same MIGHT apply for MN and that would remove any paranoia of getting pulled over.

Originally Posted by xluben

I don't have an AP. I am tuned open source.

That's interesting. I've been weighing the pros and cons of saving the money from the purchase of an access port and putting it into professional tunes via open source. What it the savings that made you go open source or something else?

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[ofspunk7]

Originally Posted by Joker_927

*about tinting*
I suggest you check MN laws. Here in Oregon (I'm guessing it's because of the winter weather) any AWD vehicle is considered a SUV and tinting laws are much for lax for SUVs. The same MIGHT apply for MN and that would remove any paranoia of getting pulled over.

Not here.... we have very light tint that is allowed (50% including factory tint), and certain burbs are hardcore about tint and exhaust. The hatch is not considred a wagon or SUV per the law... stupid pointless laws.

[xluben]

Yeah, MN tint laws are pretty strict. Most shops won't do anything less than 50% unless you have a prescription! You can get darker if you try, but you'll be a cop magnet. Especially in a black car.

[The WoRX 14]

I went 20% on my 2011 (SWP) and it looks like they are completely blacked out. My uncle had his rear windows tinted in his 2010 (DGM) and it is so dark it makes the front windows seem tinted even though they arent....

NY is supposedly strict but I have never been pulled over for only tint. I have been pulled over for speeding and then if the cop feels like being a d*ck he will write a ticket for the tint as well.

[aleeann]

Originally Posted by xluben

Also received and installed today was the Defi Oil Pressure Gauge:





If you've been following this thread, you'll know that I have the SMY ClusterMaker Dual Gauge Pod. It is an amazing piece, but I have been running it with only one gauge (boost), and one gauge blank. I wasn't sure what my second gauge would be, but I eventually decided on oil pressure. There are a lot of useful gauges out there, but I thought the oil pressure seemed the most useful on a day to day basis. Other gauges like EGT and AFR that are good to monitor, but really matter most during tuning, and not as much once you're done. Oil temp also seems like a good option, but oil pressure will allow me to monitor pressure (obviously) as well as get an indication of oil temp indirectly, through pressure readings. Some people may disagree what the best second gauge should be, but this is what I chose, and I am happy with it.

When I was looking into oil pressure gauges my first concern was install. I initially planned on getting a sandwich adapter. Seemed like the easiest solution. But once I researched it more, easiest isn't always best (greater possibility of leaking), and it was also more expensive. After more research, and help from Kirill at RallySportDirect, I eventually confirmed that the Defi oil pressure sender has 1/8PT (metric) threads, just like the galley plug that the OEM oil pressure sensor uses (located under the alternator). And since the Defi unit is so small it would fit into the same spot as the OEM sensor. This meant I could simply remove the OEM oil pressure sensor, and install the Defi sender unit. No extra parts to buy (sandwich plate, thread adapter, relocation kit, etc).

To do the install you need to remove the alternator cover (1 bolt), and the alternator itself (2 bolts + 1 bolt connecting the power wire). Once the alternator is out of the way you can pull the wire off of the OEM oil pressure sensor. To remove the OEM sensor you will need a 24mm socket. I highly recommend using the socket instead of some other method. I attempted using a large, adjustable, open ended wrench for about 5 minutes, then went and bought a 24mm deep socket and a 10" extension for my 1/2" drive ratchet. With the socket and extension the OEM sensor literally took 5 seconds to unscrew. The Defi sender unit is larger on top, so you cannot use a socket. It is 17mm so I had the open ended wrench to fit. I put on a few wraps of teflon tape and tightened it down with the wrench. Took a while, but was not difficult.

Once the sender is in place, re-install the alternator and cover, and move on to wiring the gauge. I went through the same procedure as my boost gauge, so it was all pretty straightforward. I removed the fender liner on the driver's side and put the wire through the boot underneath. I didn't remove the wheel this time, and it was tighter work, but not an issue. Wired it up to the same fuses as the boost gauge and installed the gauge into the pod. I did pull off all of the driver's side trim (and the OEM gauge cluster) in order to get all the wires situated properly. It is not difficult to do, and makes things much easier to work with.

Once that was all done I reassembled the dash and turned on the car. The gauges both work perfectly. Oil pressure was around 100psi at idle (cold start). Dropped to just over 20psi at idle once the car was warm. Not quite sure of the pressure when cruising, but I think it was closer to 100psi, and maybe even more when in the high rpm range. Overall I am extremely happy with how the Defi gauges look in the SMY gauge pod. Spending the extra money on the Defi's was definitely worth it in my book. They look perfect, and function just as well. The response is instant, and very smooth. Installing the oil pressure gauge was not hard at all, and I definitely recommend using the galley plug that the OEM oil pressure sensor uses. If you're doing two gauges it would definitely save some time to do them both at once, and get them both through the firewall at the same time.

I feel like I've been stalking you...you've convinced me that I can do the oil pressure and boost install myself.

Do you have any photos or more info about tapping into the fuses? Or did you reference another thread?

Good stuff...thx
a

[ofspunk7]

Originally Posted by The WoRX 14

I went 20% on my 2011 (SWP) and it looks like they are completely blacked out. My uncle had his rear windows tinted in his 2010 (DGM) and it is so dark it makes the front windows seem tinted even though they arent....

I think the opposite. I think the lighter the car color the darker the tint looks. I have compared my DMG with lighter color cars with the same tint (brand, style and %) and mine looks lighter. That is my experience ..... lighter cars get harassed more.

[xluben]

Originally Posted by The WoRX 14

I went 20% on my 2011 (SWP) and it looks like they are completely blacked out. My uncle had his rear windows tinted in his 2010 (DGM) and it is so dark it makes the front windows seem tinted even though they arent....

NY is supposedly strict but I have never been pulled over for only tint. I have been pulled over for speeding and then if the cop feels like being a d*ck he will write a ticket for the tint as well.

Originally Posted by ofspunk7

I think the opposite. I think the lighter the car color the darker the tint looks. I have compared my DMG with lighter color cars with the same tint (brand, style and %) and mine looks lighter. That is my experience ..... lighter cars get harassed more.

I think tint looks much darker on dark cars. Maybe not when you compare them side by side, but if you see a light colored car in passing, you may not even notice the tint. But if it's a dark car is looks usually looks completely blacked out, even with a little tint.

Originally Posted by aleeann

I feel like I've been stalking you...you've convinced me that I can do the oil pressure and boost install myself.

Do you have any photos or more info about tapping into the fuses? Or did you reference another thread?

Good stuff...thx
a

I ran the wires through here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...07&postcount=6

I tapped into the following fuses:

Constant 12v - Fuse # 3 - DOOR LOCK
Switched 12v - Fuse # 26 - IG2
Illumination/Dimmer - Fuse # 16 - ILLUMINATION

[aleeann]

Originally Posted by xluben

I ran the wires through here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...07&postcount=6

I tapped into the following fuses:

Cool - thanks.

Since you are running two gauges, did you then tap into those lines going to the fusebox for the second gauge or did you go direct to the fusebox again?

Or maybe you daisy chained the gauges?

a

[xluben]

I wired them both off the same fuses.

[Smitty33]

looks really good man. Nice and clean

[aleeann]

Originally Posted by xluben

I wired them both off the same fuses.

Using a fuse tap like the one pictured?



I'm prepared to solder, but always want to check into all options.

Thanks again
a

[B03scooby]

nice thread, I am a visual person so I like pictures I am looking to get a DGM 5-door to replace my bugeye

[xluben]

Suspension stuff went in last night!

Whiteline 24mm Adj. Front Sway Bar



Whiteline 22mm Adj. Rear Swaybar





RalliTEK HD Front Endlinks



RalliTEK HD Rear Endlinks

[ofspunk7]

Did you run into any issues? What do you think about the ride? I love mine man. I know you weren't going to do sways.... so I am wondering what you think.

[xluben]

Took us a while to figure out you had to drop the rear suspension in order to get the new swaybar in (the OEM one was just small enough to fit out). Other than that it all went in pretty easy. The OEM endlinks were already pretty rusty though

Handling is greatly improved. Turn in is waaay sharper now. Car feels a lot more solid. I think I can now get the tail loose when before I would just push through a turn. Much more neutral (as opposed to a huge understeer bias when stock). Overall I like it a lot. No complaints.

[jockeygolfs]

I'm going to need to unsubscribe because you are giving me to many ideas lol.

[ofspunk7]

Originally Posted by xluben

Took us a while to figure out you had to drop the rear suspension in order to get the new swaybar in (the OEM one was just small enough to fit out).

What, you mean you had to remove part of your suspension? We just slid my bar out.

Originally Posted by xluben

The OEM endlinks were already pretty rusty .

I remember mine being dirty.... don't remember how rusty.

Originally Posted by xluben

Handling is greatly improved. Turn in is waaay sharper now. Car feels a lot more solid. I think I can now get the tail loose when before I would just push through a turn. Much more neutral (as opposed to a huge understeer bias when stock). Overall I like it a lot. No complaints.

Yeah I am very happy with mine. I wish I would have done it sooner.

[xluben]

Originally Posted by jockeygolfs

I'm going to need to unsubscribe because you are giving me to many ideas lol.

LOL. Gimme a few min....

Originally Posted by ofspunk7

What, you mean you had to remove part of your suspension? We just slid my bar out.

Didn't have to remove anything, but we had to loosen the nuts holding the top of the strut, so that the lower control arm could drop low enough to maneuver the new swaybar into place (the OEM one came out without doing this). Maybe there's a way to do it without, but we twisted and turned and pushed on that thing for quite some time before we gave in, lol.

[ofspunk7]

Originally Posted by xluben

Didn't have to remove anything, but we had to loosen the nuts holding the top of the strut, so that the lower control arm could drop low enough to maneuver the new swaybar into place (the OEM one came out without doing this). Maybe there's a way to do it without, but we twisted and turned and pushed on that thing for quite some time before we gave in, lol.

Weird. Mine fit in very easy ..... maybe the difference between an 09 and 11? Or the difference between an installation on a lift vs using a Jack? That sucks that you had to loosen that stuff. Oh well, glad the install went well.

[xluben]

BC Racing Inverted Coilovers went in last night as well!



^Incorrect picture, but it was the only decent on I could find.

I wasn't set on coilovers, but I found a great deal on these locally, so I went for it. The seller even helped me do the install! Luckily I was able to put them on at the same time as all the other suspension stuff I had.

We got them on and the car was sitting at 14" (from hub to fender) at all 4 corners. Today I dropped them down to 13.5" on all wheels. No fender gap. Dampers are set to 12 clicks from full soft. 8k front, 7k rear springs.

Here is how it's sitting now:

[xluben]

Originally Posted by ofspunk7

Weird. Mine fit in very easy ..... maybe the difference between an 09 and 11? Or the difference between an installation on a lift vs using a Jack? That sucks that you had to loosen that stuff. Oh well, glad the install went well.

See above. I also put on coilovers.

I think the coilovers may have pulled the lower control arm up a bit more than the OEM struts. This is probably why I had issues and you didn't.

[jockeygolfs]

Originally Posted by xluben

BC Racing Inverted Coilovers went in last night as well!

^Incorrect picture, but it was the only decent on I could find.

I wasn't set on coilovers, but I found a great deal on these locally, so I went for it. The seller even helped me do the install! Luckily I was able to put them on at the same time as all the other suspension stuff I had.

We got them on and the car was sitting at 14" (from hub to fender) at all 4 corners. Today I dropped them down to 13.5" on all wheels. No fender gap. Dampers are set to 12 clicks from full soft. 8k front, 7k rear springs.

Here is how it's sitting now:

FU...




LOL

[Celery GT-5]

nice!

is BC buddy club or something else?

[xluben]

No, it's not Buddy Club. It's another company.

[Celery GT-5]

hows the ride?