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Old 02-28-2006, 04:09 PM   #1
02 Great White
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Default Heater Blower Problem

2002 wrx

my heater blower works only in 4th position, doesn't go on in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Talked to an electrician, he said that there is a thing beside the blower motor on the passenger side, behind the glove box held in place by two little screws, has a brown connector attached to it, he said that I need to unscrew the two screws and replace that thing. He said it burned out. I took it out yesterday, and it seemed fine. It looks like credit card with a connector on the bottom side, when you take it out of the heater assembly. I don't think there is anything wrong with this thing. Any ideas?
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:32 PM   #2
munkis
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blower motor speed resistor, it may look fine but dollars to donuts its bad, replace it.

Jay
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Old 02-28-2006, 08:05 PM   #3
Mulder
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You can test it with an ohmeter, but Jay is right. If you are having those symptoms the resistor is bad.
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Old 12-08-2008, 05:32 PM   #4
Spunkmeyer
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Ok, my blower quit working on any position. The fuses aren't blown. Does that still mean it's the resister thing? I think the motor is fine. Could it be the switch itself? It was acting funky before it quit altogether(working then not working)
Help! It's getting cold and snowy here.
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:20 PM   #5
kcarpent
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Hi!

I'm working on the same exact issue on a 2004 STI right now.
Unfortunately, we have different part numbers on stuff, but I can probably help a little.

You need access to a voltmeter/multimeter to do this.

Even a cheap one $20 would be good enough.

I'm working on a write up, but I'll give you what I have currently..

You can probably move the passenger seat back and flip upside down to do this without removing the glove box (removing the glove box only takes 5 min).

You'll probably see 1 wire bundle going directly into the blower motor toward the right side of the blower motor enclosure, and 1 going to the left side to the rear,(this is the blower motor resistor or blower power transistor, a little white? plastic thing) depending on if you have manual or automatic climate control.

Kelly’s Diagnostic results
My fan is not working at ANY blower motor setting.

It was intermittently working, (rarely), but when it did it was on all speeds. It would sometimes work after hitting a bump in the road. So if Iwas cold, I would just drive down a bumpy road. (Just Kidding).
First things first, in Subaru’s definition, a “manual” climate control is something that doesn’t have an “auto” setting on the blower control!! This kind of goes against my definition of a much fancier standard of what an automatic climate control is, but I accept this ; ).
In “manual” blower motor controls, you have a blower motor resistor and in “automatic” blower motor controls, you have a blower motor power transistor, in Subaru’s terminology.
Since the 2004 STI has an auto blower motor setting it has “Automatic Climate Control” and therefore a blower motor power transistor.
The reason I’m stressing this is that in the 2004 WRX/WRX STI shop manual they show the incorrect part for an STI, a WRX blower motor resistor that costs $40.00 retail vs the STI blower motor power transistor at $300.00 retail.
The correct part number for a 2004 WRX with manual climate control is
72 226 FE000 and costs $40.00 retail

The correct part number for a 2004 WRX STI is

Remove the blower motor power cable that plugs directly into the blower motor
Take the test leads fo the multimeter set for DC Volts and touch the test leads into the power connector to measure the voltage. If the voltage shows a negative value , the leads are backwards. Switch the leads and measure again. You’ll get the same answer, but without the pesky negative sign. And this doesn’t hurt the electronic system either.
On my 2004 STI the power connectors look like the letter T rotated 90 degrees to the right like __ |
On my 2004 STI the left Horizontal one is Negative, and the right vertical one is positive
This is what I found.
I’m testing with the existing blower motor power transistor in place
With accessory power on, and vent position on upper only, (defrost position decreases the values by 0.4V.)
I tested the voltage at different blower motor positions to see what I found.


Power at the blower motor harness was
Blower Motor Fan Switch Position Voltage
Off 0V (As expected)
Position Auto 11.7 – 12.1V
Position 1 4.7V
Position 2 6.5V
Position 3 9.5V
Position 4 11.6 - 12.1V
Auto and 4 appear to run directly to the fan, not going through a power transistor. The blower motor is receiving 12V on these settings, this means that for testing purposes you can run power directly from the car battery in to the blower motor and, (if you connect it properly), you won’t damage it.
Blower fan settings 1,2,3 all go through a power transistor as shown by the lower voltages on those settings.
Theoretically, blower fan setting 4 and maybe even auto should work with the resistors blown.
So if it your fan works on high speed, (blower fan setting 4) and maybe even auto the blower motor resistor could be the reason.

In my case..
The conclusions I’m making with the results that I have so far are…
Since I’m getting, voltage, I know that the fuse is good.
I don’t know if I can also say that the relays are OK. But I believe that the relays are OK.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the fan speed switch is good.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the blower motor power transistor is probably good also, but since there are signs of burning in the connectors so, I’m going to replace the blower motor power transistor also.

If you remove the blower motor power transistor, and retest the blower motor power harness you get 0V as you would expect.
I would say at this time it looks since we are getting variable voltage to the blower motor, and it doesn’t work, it’s probably dead.
Since the blower motor runs at 12V you can run wires directly from the battery to the blower motor, if it doesn’t run easily or at all, it’s probably dead.
Normally, they tell you to take it out of the plastic enclosure as in the old days, but I believe that there’s no need to in this case. (This is my personal speculation by looking at it.) This is something I will verify when I tear it apart.
Subaru sells the entire blower motor enclosure and motor as a single part for $300.00. There are no replaceable parts inside according to Subaru.
That is the “official” fix.
Buy the entire blower motor enclosure and replace it.

Since it doesn’t matter I’m taking mine apart and working on a more old school/ hacker approach to fix it or just replace the motor itself, or the whole enclosure for $300.00. More on that as I fix it or not,
So, do you replace it or can you go to an electric motor shop and rebuild it with new brushes?

Last edited by kcarpent; 12-13-2008 at 10:38 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:34 AM   #6
M Hindin
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My 2000 legacy heater blower wouldn't work this morning at -5 degrees, at any speed setting. couldn't see to get to work. It worked on the weekend when much colder! I pulled both fuses, both good, and reset. Blower began working. What's going on? Sticky relay? where is relay? any other thoughts on why this happened?
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:50 AM   #7
WRChex
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My heater fan also went out today... It was working at certain rpms like explained before but now it is not working. Where is the relay and how do I reset it?
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:21 PM   #8
vica153
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Fun times in the snow and then the next morning my blower isn't working. Not getting any volts at any setting. Fuses look fine.

The relay is behing the dash left of the steering wheel. I'm really hoping it just fixes itself
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:19 AM   #9
ShutterBC
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Does the voltage test not work for the power transistor, and if not is there a better test? The service manual has a procedure for testing the blower resistor (described wonderfully by kcarpent). However, this procedure is not listed at all for the power transistor.

I think this is the only thread on NASIOC mentioning the HVAC power transistor for auto climate control systems. Add me to the list for funky blower behavior.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:47 PM   #10
626Wagonizer
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My blower in my 02 bugeye wagon stop blowing this morning. The ac works and climate controls work but no air comes out. I checked the fuses under the driver side and pulled every single one of them and all are fine. Now what i have read theres this relay i got to check, but i got no clue where is at and how it looks. If this is the problem how would i know the relay is bad and how much would it cost to replace it. Oh and where can i buy it? thanks guys..
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:43 PM   #11
Damon1
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I have a 2007 Impreza 2.5i wagon with an automatic and my heater fan just stopped working in any position but 4. I cant find online a resistor listed for the auto. Is it the same as for the manual trans? need to get this fixed. Any suggestions? also anyone have problems asking for part info from Subaruparts.com? I emailed them asking about the resistor and am getting no response?

thanks for any help!
Damon
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:07 AM   #12
626Wagonizer
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ok so i checked the resistor pack and unplugged it while the blower was on speed 4. It continue to blow but at really low speed! i kept tapping the resistor part and underneath the actual motor and it speeds up and slows down. Sometimes it just stops. Could this be a much bigger problem than the resistor itself? anyone have similar issues or ideas what my next step should be?? thanks please help!!!
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:18 PM   #13
Manako
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I also have the same problem as Damon.. 2007 Impreza wagon first the blower would only work on the 4th position and then the fan started making horrible noises.

I've never done DIY repair and as its getting warmer I decide I should get it fixed before I need the AC, so I call up the dealer, and have them check it out. They lead me to believe its just 1 part, even though I am emphatic about there being an issue with the fan AND the switch. The switch part came in today and I get a call that they have to replace the fan as well.

Sounds like its going to be ~400 for them to replace both the fan and the resistor, can't even seem to find the fan for sale online if I wanted it
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:28 PM   #14
Chupacabras
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Bit of a dredge, but my fan works in all the settings except #2... is it likely to be the same issue (resistor is pooched?) Thanks NASIOC...
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:12 AM   #15
perds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupacabras View Post
Bit of a dredge, but my fan works in all the settings except #2... is it likely to be the same issue (resistor is pooched?) Thanks NASIOC...
Probably the blower resistor. You can check the switch for continuity first if you want.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:55 AM   #16
rleh22
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so it sounds like if your blower is only working on 4, replacing the blower motor, which will have new connections, should solve the problem. My bearing that the fan spins on is shot too. Makes a horrible sound when its on. Has anybody ran into that yet?
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:54 PM   #17
chaser91
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I'm having the same issue with my fan. It's making so much noise all levels 1-4. Should I try to throw a little lubricant in the fan bearings?
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:41 PM   #18
04wrxsportwagon
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Default I fixed my blower motor resistor

I had the same issue with my blower, only worked on 4. I read this thread and started at the blower resistor. Sure enough it wasnt working. I tested it with an ohm meter to be sure. There is one spot that had a soldered conection on the resistor bord. Since I was going to replace the thing anyways I scratched off a tiny amount of the coating on either side of the soldered conection and tested for continuity. Turns out that there was no conection!. I soldered a tiny piece of wire to the two ends that I had scratched and tested the resistor by simply plugging it back into my car. problem solved! blower works on all settings now, and saved 40$.
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Old 12-04-2011, 02:22 AM   #19
04stinugget
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Can somebody please post a pic of the blower resistor. My blower quit working but the panel still lights up and selects vents and heat setting correctly. Fuses are all good as well. Just need a few pics of the resistor so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks guys
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #20
Kreed23
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Default Blower issues

Found out yesterday that I seem to be having similar issues with my 2006 STI. I got in my car yesterday and started it up and I usually keep my fan on all the time and noticed that my defroster wasn't working. I turned the switch off and on again and nothing. I tried pressing the recirc button and also the AS button a few times and kept trying to turn it on and off. When I turn the fan dial on and off I can hear a relay clicking under the dash on the driver side. After I messed with it for a bit by turning it on and off it started working. The next time I got in my car and started it up it was the same thing but the time after that when I started the car it started working right away so it seems to be an intermittent issue. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be. I was reading some of the posts and it looks like it could be an issue with the resister/transistor but I'm not sure of if it is the same with an 06?... I'm assuming it would be pretty close if not the same. Any ideas on what to check?
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:22 PM   #21
vica153
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When the blower doesn't work, check to see if it's getting power. If it's getting power, but not blowing, then the motor is probably bad. If it's not getting power, then the relay is probably bad.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:10 AM   #22
Kreed23
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Default Update

I started my car this morning and couldn't get the fan to turn on at all. I kept messing with it as I was driving and eventually it came on. I noticed that it wasn't blowing as fast as it normall would blow and when I got to work I noticed that there was a clicking noise coming from under the glove box which I'm assuming is the location of the fan. It sounds like it might be a motor going bad but I'm not sure. Sound like that's the issue?
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:04 PM   #23
Kreed23
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Default Ongoing motor issues

I was finally able to check to see if I have any power at the connector and I am getting power to the connector that is on the front of the motor(closest to the passenger seat). It is showing up as around 14.5VDC. My question would be this - I'm assuming that the power must go through the transistor first in order to regulate the voltage that goes into the motor depending on the position of the dial for the fan. If this is the case then it would point to a bad motor, especially when it sometimes spins and doesn't other times. I am not sure what the transistor looks like or where it is located so I am not really able to check that unless someone has any more info on it.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:52 AM   #24
Lightning2.5i
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I'm having a similar issue with my 06 2.5i only the blower works on 1, 3 and 4 but not on 2; I couldn't find any part # or anything for the resistor. If you do figure it out I'd be interested in knowing; I'm going to try and take mine apart this weekend...weather permitting.
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:28 PM   #25
Kreed23
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Not sure about what the part number is but I have been using the diagrams that are located here to figure out what the parts and such look like and what the cost of them are. This is the one for your car:

http://parts.subarupartswarehouse.co...3&section=HVAC


I checked the voltage again on mine and I am fairly certain that it is the blower motor that is bad. I get 11.5 VDC with the engine off a the connector when the fan is in the fastest position and the voltage decreases as I turn the dial down until I get to the Auto position at which it jumps back up to 11.5VDC again. I am going to try and take the motor out next when I get some time and try to jump it right to the motor to see if it comes on.

Does anyone have any information on removing a blower motor from an 06 STI? Any info or pictures would be good.

Thanks.
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