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Old 04-29-2011, 02:29 PM   #51
68Cadillac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cracky
Did you oil up any of your orings when reassembling
Cracky asked me a question in a PM. I figured I'd make my answer public.

I did. Just a light film. Dipped my fingers in the ATF and pulled the oring through. Just enough so it'll move around and settle nice and even as I torqued parts down or reassembled them. I 'oil up' the o-ring on the motor oil filter before I install it, figured the PS pump o-rings were similar.
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Last edited by 68Cadillac; 04-29-2011 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:36 PM   #52
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^

Similarly I used some generic automotive white grease I had. Just a little, on all the seals, and for the bearing.

Its compatible.
I got the pump reassembled last night and on the car. It was late so I couldnt do a good bleed. 2am idling with a full 3" exh ...ya neighbours wont like that. lol.

But the car was needed to be used in the morning so I had make sure it wasnt leaking. I did a manual bleed, with a quick bleed with the car on/wheels up. Not ideal/perfect but something.

Then I took it out for a boot just to make sure it was ok. A little judder and resistance at pts,but more than likely from air stil in the system. good idea i drove it? eh not the best. But as mentioned the car had to be used today.
There were some bubbles for sure. Fluid almost looked like champagne with the little bubbles working their way out. Im exaggerating a bit.

I did try to do some light turns at slow speed to work it a bit. Got back, so far no leaks...but time will tell. *knocks on wood*

I have some more info on that oil seal and what I used. Ill edit my post later tonight with more info. I replaced all the seals and the bearing. So a complete rebuild other than replacing those springs/the pump parts.

Tonight Ill do a real good bleed and cycle some more new fluid in there. Hoping it will be perfect when Im done.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:51 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
To completely rebuild this guy you'll need the following*.
1 - AS568A Dash Number 037 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 136 Square Cross Section O-Ring(or maybe 033 square or, 033 round or, 136 round)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 015 O-Ring
3 - AS568A Dash Number 014 O-Rings
1 - AS568A Dash Number 013 O-Ring
? - Mystery size O-Ring*.
1 - Bearing (see above posts)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cracky View Post
its a shaft with a spring and ball bearing in it. no seals on it. just press fit in.

the hex bolt ID for the oring is 17mm.
thickness looks somewhat the same as the other small ones.(about 2mm)

1 - 2x64x68 (or 2x65x69)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 136 Square Cross Section O-Ring(or maybe 033 square or, 033 round or, 136 round)- unsure (though I think a 2.5x50x55 would work..square or round I cant confirm I one that fits but is 3mm and it just seems a tad big)
1 - 2x24x28
1 - 2x14x18(or 2x13x17)
3 - 2x12x16
1- 2x11x15
1- 2x17x21
1 - Bearing 12x17x40
1- oil seal full dimensions/specs unknown (though measured roughly ID 20mm and OD is about 32mm.)

9 orings total.
So the updated list of o-rings is:


1 - AS568A Dash Number 136 O-ring (not Square Cross Section just normal round)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 037 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 017 O-Ring (behind the 'hex bolt')
1 - AS568A Dash Number 015 O-Ring
3 - AS568A Dash Number 014 O-Rings (that's three total for full replacement)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 013 O-Ring
1 - Bearing 12mm depth x 17mm id x 40mm od (range in prices from $6 to $106 from McMaster)
1 - Bearing seal full dimensions/specs unknown (though measured roughly ID 20mm and OD is about 32mm.)
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:22 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cracky View Post
seal behind the bearing.... its like a cam seal(or diff seal) its not just an oring. i dont have specs. mine looks to be ok and i had no leaks though im hesitant to rush it back together. its ID is 20mm and OD is about 32mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cracky View Post
That looks like a Solid-Profile Polyurethane Shaft Wiper





Fitting those dimensions from McMaster.com is P/N 9403K59
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:01 PM   #55
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Its not quite like that. Its a rotary oil seal



very much like TC.(yes it the oem one has a spring inside) The problem I ran into was the one off the pump has a built in lip on the outside there. which is basically used to help keep dust/dirt out. Problem is no one around here stocked that exact design nor could they order it. Most typical seals like that for most stuff dont have such a big dust ring.

suby obviously doesnt carry it. i even tried some power steering rebuilders and they didnt have it either.Im sure something online can probably be found but I didnt have that kind of time..so I made an executive decision to pick up an oil seal with similar design but it doesnt have the dust shield.

the oem bushing spec 9.3 x 20x32
but that 9.3 is with that dust shield. the actual seal is only 7mm.

So i picked up a 7mm x 20 x32 tc rotary oil seal. i then used a buna "washer" that was about 2.xx mm thick(32 OD and 25 ID) and I placed it on top of the seal to act as a make shift dust shield. Im pretty sure the bearing rests up against it.

thats what I did. time will tell if the seal holds up. if the dust thing is working or not. i obviously dont know. hopefully it is. if not its probably not the end of the world.
You can find regular ones and heavy duty ones...I just went with a regular one. they were $4.xx ea from where i got it. the heavy duty was about $13.xx ea.
I dont think there is much pressure in that part of the pump. It was a separate chamber that has a small hole leading up to the return line.

Though it may be worth getting the heavy duty one. I didnt. hopefully it doesnt bite me in the a55.

I have some pics Ill get up sometime this weekend.

Last edited by cracky; 04-30-2011 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:47 PM   #56
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McMaster's got a subset of their rotary seals they call Metal-Rubber Shaft Seal

The Heavy duty spring-loaded double lip version looks like this:


and P/N 5154T49 is about the size you quote.

There's also the Spring-loaded double lip version

P/N 5154T35 has almost the exact dimensions you quote
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:07 AM   #57
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Ok...here are a few pics comparing the original oil seal and what I used. Going over things again...I would run an 8mm wide oil seal. i went with 7 but you can see its a bit smaller.

Now hopefully it wont make a big deal in the end. The seal itself didnt even seat in the hole. Its just firmly in place. no bottom for it to rest on. the more important part is where the sealing section is and that its not to deep into the hole.

You can also see the OEM one is deeper on the outside ...on the backside of the seal, where the one I bought are about equal.
I havent had any leaks yet but we will see over time, since the bushing is pressed in pretty firm, i wouldnt expect it to show a leak from behind right away. god I really hope its ok lol.

I couldnt source the exact oil seal locally. maybe online somewhere will have it..OR you
have to get it from the pump manufacturer lol good luck.
So we should have all the details ironed out now for fully rebuilt pump(besides replacing any metal parts)

I have reused those types of seals before(with about 90% success rate)...but in this app I decided not to since you have to fully dissemble to reach it. Once that shaft came out , I was gonna replace the seal. the seal got wrecked when i took it out(in case you are wondering)

Hopefully this helps.

OEM





One I bought.






Last edited by cracky; 05-02-2011 at 02:13 AM.
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:08 AM   #58
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:09 AM   #59
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install procedure is the same with this as other oil seals. (cam seal, trans seal etc)



I also used a $3.99 bearing. Its up to your discretion as to what you want to use.
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:19 AM   #60
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the shaft diameter is 20mm so thats the ID of the oil seal.

32mm is the OD and I used a 7mm depth...though I think an 8mm would be better looking at the pics. If you want to run a spacer like that as a dust shield. pick up the appropriate thickness)1.4-2.4) to make the overall depth the same(9.4xmm). your discretion if you want to do it.

If you can source the exact seal, let this post know!
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:58 PM   #61
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cant tell from pics and it's been apart for 6 months so i dont remember. gold tips on the fins point in or out?
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:04 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
With the rotor and vanes removed you and get at the valving body at the front of the pump. This is the back side (i.e. this side to the rear of the car). Be careful removing the rotor and vanes. The vanes aren't attached to the rotor and will just fall out. The gold/brass side of the vanes go out, by the way.
Already in the thread.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:49 PM   #63
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You should update the list with the seal specs

so far everything has been running fine! no leaks and pump output is normal.



I had to do my brakes after and sheared both lower front caliper bolts. lol it never ends(ive since fixed all that too)
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:42 PM   #64
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Quote:
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You should update the list with the seal specs
Done.
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:23 AM   #65
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Just ordered the orings. Do I have to replace the bearing and the seal to get to all the rings?

Also my pump doesn't leak or get air in it. will this fix my problems? My steering just dies when I auto cross. No noises or anything.
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:31 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantsti View Post
Just ordered the orings. Do I have to replace the bearing and the seal to get to all the rings?

Also my pump doesn't leak or get air in it. will this fix my problems? My steering just dies when I auto cross. No noises or anything.
How old is your ATF? You might try a synthetic. I use Mobil 1.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:04 AM   #67
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I've done everything to fix it new clamps, new o ring on inlet, new fluid two times mobil one then motul, and a power steering cooler.

This is my last hope

The new stuff is about two months old now
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:07 AM   #68
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Ok, had to ask.

Good luck.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:18 AM   #69
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I just hope it fixes it. Everyone else's seem like they are making noise or leaking. Mine works fine when I dd but as soon as I start an auto x lap it can't keep up it seems like. I use to have problems where it would boil and cavitate. But now it just get SUPER heavy and impossible to drive fast. I'm worried the actual pump part might be bad. But I really don't know how these things work.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:47 AM   #70
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:57 PM   #71
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Ya I'm wondering what they fix on the rebuilt ones.

I'll try the o ring fix and if that dont work I'll buy a rebuilt one.

Or can you get the little pieces that slide?
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:24 PM   #72
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Anyone know if a 97 Outback P/S pump uses the same o-rings listed in this thread?
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:25 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantsti View Post
Ya I'm wondering what they fix on the rebuilt ones.

I'll try the o ring fix and if that dont work I'll buy a rebuilt one.

Or can you get the little pieces that slide?
Before investing time and money with no air bubbling visible you might get your pump's output pressure checked.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:50 PM   #74
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how do i do that? and are these the pressures it should reach? 1067-1165 psi copied from the link above.

Last edited by wantsti; 06-28-2011 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:22 PM   #75
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A dealer should have the fittings and gages to do the test, or possibly an independent shop. It's in the service manual. It also tells how to inspect the force required to rotate the pump.
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