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Old 06-23-2011, 02:12 PM   #526
xluben
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Yes, I still have the silver one. I still wish I had the black one, but I don't care enough to try and sell it and buy a new one. My brother put the same valve (but in black) on his MS3, and I want to steal it but he says no, haha. I'd also like black couplers on the FMIC piping. Maybe some day I'll pony up the cash to do both (couplers and BPV). It's not going to change how the car runs, so I don't think it's really worth it right now.

The Forge BPV has a clear annodize on it, it's not just bare aluminum, so it shouldn't corrode. I am currently running with the yellow spring and no shims. With the TMIC I used a green spring I bought from Forge. It is even lighter than the yellow one. Springs/shims will have nothing to do with boost holding ability. They will simply control how quickly the valve vents off when you release the throttle. I used a light spring for quick response and reduced wear on the turbo. A stiffer spring will allow you to hold boost better during shifts, but could be harder on the turbo. Both the green and yellow seem to work OK for me. The blue tends to be a bit too stiff and I get some compressor surge.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:46 PM   #527
Joker_927
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So you purchased the green spring and still decided to use the yellow instead, huh? This is great news. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:32 PM   #528
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker_927 View Post
So you purchased the green spring and still decided to use the yellow instead, huh? This is great news. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
I liked the green one better when I had a TMIC. Much better response than any of the other springs. But when I went to the FMIC it seemed like it was TOO touchy. It would vent even when I tried to lightly slow down and made the car pretty jerky. The yellow one seems to be better. I'm not exactly sure why it was different, or maybe it was all in my head.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:33 PM   #529
gregroot198521
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Alright, I found one of the write ups, but all it is metal gutter bottom, and probably need some way of holding it to the bumper hole. The grillcraft one has mounting brackets around the edge, but the grill's also thick enough that the brackets were welded onto it.

Here are a few I found that might help give an idea how to do it, since it doesn't look like you'll be able to buy a grill that will work.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=diy+grill
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=diy+grill
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:33 PM   #530
gregroot198521
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Alright, I found one of the write ups, but all it is metal gutter bottom, and probably need some way of holding it to the bumper hole. The grillcraft one has mounting brackets around the edge, but the grill's also thick enough that the brackets were welded onto it.

Here are a few I found that might help give an idea how to do it, since it doesn't look like you'll be able to buy a grill that will work.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=diy+grill
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=diy+grill
And a little more than halfway down on this page, 2point0 is talking about how he did his lower grill.

Last edited by gregroot198521; 06-24-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:01 PM   #531
xluben
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I put a bike rack on my WRX today. I went with the Yakima setup. More info can be found here (scroll up for the part numbers):

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8#post34472148

I will be adding a second bike mount very soon. Probably tomorrow. Here are some photos with a single bike mounted to the rack:











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Old 06-28-2011, 12:54 AM   #532
madmax_087
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Killer shots of an equally killer car sir, all around well played!
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #533
olazy
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d@mn, lovin the stance. any issues with clearance at that height? i want to go lower but boston roads are not friendly.

btw the scoopless hood is looking better and better.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:22 PM   #534
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax_087 View Post
Killer shots of an equally killer car sir, all around well played!
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by olazy View Post
d@mn, lovin the stance. any issues with clearance at that height? i want to go lower but boston roads are not friendly.

btw the scoopless hood is looking better and better.
Honestly, it's pretty annoying.

I scrape my bumper every time I go in or out of my driveway, I nailed a dead goose with my undertray because I thought I could straddle it on the freeway, right now they're doing road work near my house and have small lumps of dirt across the road, any normal car would make it, but for me, I am now limited to one single point of access to my house, because I have no change of making it over the dirt piles, etc, etc.

I think about raising it up every day. But when I walk out to my car, I can't do it, because it just looks so cool
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:46 PM   #535
Joker_927
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I love the juxtaposition of the look of performance with a wide, low stance and mean grill alongside the look of utility with a loaded bikerack on the roof.

Subaru: Performance plus utility.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:49 PM   #536
gregonfire
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How do you like having the spacers? Thinking about picking some up for myself, because like you i'm trying to get the best look out of my stock wheel setup. Also, what sizes do you recommend for a '10 f/r?

ps you have the cleanest '11 i've seen
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:52 PM   #537
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker_927 View Post
I love the juxtaposition of the look of performance with a wide, low stance and mean grill alongside the look of utility with a loaded bikerack on the roof.

Subaru: Performance plus utility.
Thanks. I agree completely. I should take it around the track with the bikes on top, haha, jk. I don't think they would appreciate that....

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregonfire View Post
How do you like having the spacers? Thinking about picking some up for myself, because like you i'm trying to get the best look out of my stock wheel setup. Also, what sizes do you recommend for a '10 f/r?

ps you have the cleanest '11 i've seen
Thanks! I really don't know what size spacers would work best for the non-widebody. Probably 10mm or so? Just keep in mind you will either need extended lugs, or spacers that come with their own lugs, and you will likely have to trim the stock lugs to all the wheel to mount.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:29 PM   #538
DrDanimalSize
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^ I used 10mm on the rear of my car to even it out with the front, and I have 2011 wheels and tires (which stick out about 7mm more than stock) on my 2010 non wide-body, and my wheels aren't as flush as xluben's. Feel free to PM me for info/pics of my set-up, I don't wanna crap up his thread with pics of my car

Oh, and to xluben: raise your car up about 1/2" and you'll thank yourself every day!
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:51 AM   #539
xluben
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^Thanks. I agree on the drop. Might have to do that one of these days.
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:27 AM   #540
arf80
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Any plans to build the engine if/when it goes?
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:33 AM   #541
xluben
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Yeah, probably. Some tentative plans, but nothing really set in stone yet.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:06 PM   #542
WRXcket
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Nice rack... have you thought about flipping the fairing to hide the big YAKIMA logo? I'm not a big fan of stickers and logos, so did that with mine. Of course, it's all just a matter of personal preference.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:08 PM   #543
xluben
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Oh, good idea. Didn't think of that. I think the other side is a matte finish, right? I'm not sure if those little clips will survive being pulled out, though. They seemed like the one-time-use type of thing.
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:15 PM   #544
xluben
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I tried the "Brenizer Method" on a few images. If you're not familiar with it, you basically take a fast telephoto and shoot wide open on MF. Position yourself fairly close and take a bunch of shots to cover the area you want. Then stitch the images together in post processing. The end result is an "equivalent" image to one taken with a wider lens that is a very wide aperture (or conversely a camera with a much larger sensor). Often the resulting aperture is something that isn't physically available (especially if you start with a very fast lens to begin with). In essence, it gives you a nice blurry background with a wider frame of view than would normally be seen.

Here are my attempts. Info is below each image.



Camera: Canon 5D
Lens: Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS
Focal Length: 200mm f/2.8
Stitched Image Size: 57MP
Equivalent Full Frame Lens: 95mm f/1.3
Equivalent 1.6x Crop Lens: 59mm f/0.85



Camera: Canon 5D
Lens: Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS
Focal Length: 200mm f/2.8
Stitched Image Size: 71MP
Equivalent Full Frame Lens: 85mm f/1.2
Equivalent 1.6x Crop Lens: 53mm f/0.8



Camera: Canon 5D
Lens: Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS
Focal Length: 200mm f/2.8
Stitched Image Size: 102MP
Equivalent Full Frame Lens: 70mm f/1.0
Equivalent 1.6x Crop Lens: 44mm f/0.7

The post processing work isn't perfect. When stitching together dozens of images the work goes very slowly. I may have been able to do better if I put more time into it, but I think they came out looking quite good. In the end I was hoping to get a faster "equivalent" aperture (most ended up being around 85mm f/1.2, which is a lens Canon actually does make), but you do see the desired affect is achieved. Ideally I would probably shoot the images with a 85mm f/1.2 or 135mm f/2.0, so that the resulting image would be a ridiculously low effective aperture, but I don't have either of those lenses.

The last one really starts to get the unreal "3D" effect I was going for, but I still think I could have done better. They key is to overlap just enough, but not too much. I really took way too many shots and it made it much harder for Photoshop to stitch them together. Most of the photos seen here were a few dozens shots, but by the end file size, it appears I could have done most with just 6-12 well placed photos. One other cool thing about this, is that it would allow a user with a 1.6x crop body to shoot full frame type images
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:33 AM   #545
WRXcket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Oh, good idea. Didn't think of that. I think the other side is a matte finish, right? I'm not sure if those little clips will survive being pulled out, though. They seemed like the one-time-use type of thing.
The other side has an identical finish, just no logo. Assuming you remove the protective plastic cover, that is

Good point about the plastic thingies, not sure whether or not they'd hold up.

One more tip that I just remembered - go find some locking nuts to replace the wing nuts that hold your fairing on. They're not theft-proof, but at least a little more difficult to remove than the wingnuts. A buddy of mine got his stolen a week after installing it. I found some stainless nylock nuts at Home Depot for mine.
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:35 AM   #546
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXcket View Post
The other side has an identical finish, just no logo. Assuming you remove the protective plastic cover, that is

Good point about the plastic thingies, not sure whether or not they'd hold up.

One more tip that I just remembered - go find some locking nuts to replace the wing nuts that hold your fairing on. They're not theft-proof, but at least a little more difficult to remove than the wingnuts. A buddy of mine got his stolen a week after installing it. I found some stainless nylock nuts at Home Depot for mine.
On my fairing it appears the rear side is less glossy than the front (logo) side. I still haven't tried anything because I'm afraid the little plastic clips will get ruined. Thanks for the tip on bolting on the fairing. I think I will have to do that. The hand-tighten hardware they include is convenient, but also leaves it wide open for theft.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:29 PM   #547
ofspunk7
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Yeah, probably. Some tentative plans, but nothing really set in stone yet.

Besides the engine sitting in your garage!
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:40 AM   #548
Rod Knock
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The Brenizer Method is super cool. Going to have to try it out with my XTI and 70-200 F4L.

Question for you. Are you using manual focus or AF lock when doing the Brenizer Method?

Last edited by Rod Knock; 07-06-2011 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:08 AM   #549
coreski
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xluben loving the thread man, was curious as to how you mounted the AFR in the little cubby? On my old car I had on in the cluster and it was too "loud" with all the colors and constant changing at night it was wayyyy to distracting. Any advice would help if you don't mind me stealing your idea
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:46 PM   #550
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Knock View Post
The Brenizer Method is super cool. Going to have to try it out with my XTI and 70-200 F4L.

Question for you. Are you using manual focus or AF lock when doing the Brenizer Method?
I was shooting on Manual Focus and Manual Exposure. Photoshop still had to do plenty of blending magic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coreski View Post
xluben loving the thread man, was curious as to how you mounted the AFR in the little cubby? On my old car I had on in the cluster and it was too "loud" with all the colors and constant changing at night it was wayyyy to distracting. Any advice would help if you don't mind me stealing your idea
It is in a ProSport/Defi gauge cup that is held on with self adhesive industrial Velcro. Double sided tape worked just as well, but this way lets me adjust it if I want to.
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