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Old 09-04-2011, 07:58 PM   #1
MattTHEpainter
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Question Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers

I thought it would be a good idea to start a single thread that people could ask any question about the Auto Body and Refinishing process. There are some very knowledgeable people on this forum, and this would be an easy way for all us experts to pool together and help anyone in need.

So go ahead and ask away!
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:46 PM   #2
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+1 goood idea...I had to go around searching different forums for information. Would have been nice to find it all in one place..
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #3
imprezaowner27
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I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:57 PM   #4
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great idea, looking forward to see how this plays out..
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:15 PM   #5
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I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zellner
I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
dude
That hood will NEVER look quite right

Take your car to Spray-Glo in Duluth off of Buford Highway. Tell them I sent you. It will not set you back much.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zellner View Post
I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
I wouldn't recommend spray painting such a large area, but best of luck if you are looking to tackle the project by yourself!

To answer your question; I would fill the chips with a glazing putty and then sand flush/ prime. Sanding out a lot of chips could turn your bumper wavy, unless you planned on sanding the entire chipped area back to e-coat (factory primer).
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
you are the man. Im in central MA (natick)
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:48 AM   #10
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Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:53 AM   #11
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I'm in the northern suburbs of Chicago and I need to get my mirror caps painted. Anyone know a good place to get something small like that painted around my area? Or should I ask in the local forums? Also, how much would something small like this cost? I don't want to do it myself because I hate painting things. Hate it like I hate doing laundry.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLN View Post
Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
I have nothing, this is the first piece of bodywork i will ever attempt...and as far as time goes...I have until May of 2012 to get this done...my car has a trunk on it now...
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLN View Post
Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.

Harbor Freight ir www.eastwood.com if you plan to spray more than once.

as for instructions so far... Mattthepainter has this one all under control.

Rob
<home painter, street rod/muscle car builder who knows when to turn the paint over to a pro>
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:52 AM   #14
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im going to do as much prep work as i can, and have the pros paint it
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.
LVLP= low volume low pressure. Ideal for small panels or the do it yourself painter. Uses a lot less CFMs, so a smaller less expensive compressor can work.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnyfilmboy View Post
I'm in the northern suburbs of Chicago and I need to get my mirror caps painted. Anyone know a good place to get something small like that painted around my area? Or should I ask in the local forums? Also, how much would something small like this cost? I don't want to do it myself because I hate painting things. Hate it like I hate doing laundry.
Check in your local section, those guys know your area best. It's going to be hard to give out estimates because refinishing prices deviate from region to region. I wouldn't expect to pay over 150$ though.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zellner View Post
I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?



Rule number 1( my personal opinion) to body and paint.

Throw away the spray cans.....unless its black, to be sprayed on primer as a guide coat....otherwise. trash...Now....you will never, ever get the same quality or finish from a spray can as you will from proper automotive refinishing materials.

Ive painted a few mirror caps before, my own included. They are small....I cant put prices since Im not a vendor, but cut a Benjamin in half and there you go.
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
you are the man. Im in central MA (natick)
Good luck with your project. If you are ever in CT let me know and I can give you a kinesthetic lesson in bodywork. We can probably have that trunk done in about an hour.
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:10 PM   #19
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It is up to you on what you are willing to spend on the project, if you want to buy some tools or do some of the prep it all depends. Preping the project will save you money in the long run. Will the shop warranty the work if they didnt do the prep is up to them. If you are willing to learn and give it a try, it will reward you in the end knowing you did the work.

Matthhepainter is giving you a good base to start off, up to you if you want to use it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I have nothing, this is the first piece of bodywork i will ever attempt...and as far as time goes...I have until May of 2012 to get this done...my car has a trunk on it now...
You might want to google LVLP-HVLP-RP-etc. Since you know so much try to share the correct information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.

Harbor Freight ir www.eastwood.com if you plan to spray more than once.

as for instructions so far... Mattthepainter has this one all under control.

Rob
<home painter, street rod/muscle car builder who knows when to turn the paint over to a pro>
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
LVLP= low volume low pressure. Ideal for small panels or the do it yourself painter. Uses a lot less CFMs, so a smaller less expensive compressor can work.
well.... I learned something today... color me

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
You might want to google LVLP-HVLP-RP-etc. Since you know so much try to share the correct information.
Is LVLP for solvent or water based or both... never new it existed... would have saved some time, materials and the indirect high painting in my garage... Who knew... Like I said... learned something new today...

the "Since you know so much" comment.... MEH... just offering an opinion... even closed it with saying I know when to turn it over to a pro...

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:08 PM   #22
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Water base has the issue of to put briefly of how it "dries". Needs ventilation to be different.(will put on flame suit for not properly describing water based) I understand you were "offering" your opinion, but you also put your "resume" at the bottom to show I guess you knew what you were talking about. In which you had not learned of LVLP yet. LVLP's are great for home shops as it does not require that 80g tank with psi# at certaing cfm. It requires much less I have seen them go as low as 2.? something at some point. The original poster stated there are many people on this board that understand paint/body and are willing to help others. I understand you meant to correct me. Hey it happens, NO ONE knows everything.

I was just giving advise on a possible course of action for the guy that just wanted to paint a single panel. Which I thought LVLP would be a great idea for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
Is LVLP for solvent or water based or both... never new it existed... would have saved some time, materials and the indirect high painting in my garage... Who knew... Like I said... learned something new today...

the "Since you know so much" comment.... MEH... just offering an opinion... even closed it with saying I know when to turn it over to a pro...

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:17 PM   #23
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great idea. I am also wanting to do my own autobody work anbd painting these days.

DO you think you could turn this thread into one with stickies of write ups and how to's.

There are alot of questions out there aka: how to prep for paint, how to paint, which paint to use, how to bondo, pop dents etc, what tools do I need/getting the right supplies, what products do what, etc..



All the other subforums have that and it would be awesome for subforums to have it to.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLN View Post
Water base has the issue of to put briefly of how it "dries". Needs ventilation to be different.(will put on flame suit for not properly describing water based)=.

No flame suit needed, you did described it correctly in that instance. Waterbase does need alot of air flow and more time to dry, which is why there was alot of huss and fuss in big get them in and pump em out shops about it. The argument was that it would cut down on production, people would lose money, the material actually was going to cost more and the booths needed to be retrofitted with high volume fans. Not really fans, more like little nipples that move tons of air. We had them installed in our booth for when the mandatory switch comes to our state. They move a buttload of air and do the job they are supposed to. But man they were expensive. Water base definitely has its advantages to the environment. cause every car has a color that will no longer have solvents in them, and the painter as well. Heck if you mess up, just wipe it right off with a spray bottle and a towel and start over again. I dont particularly like it cause it doesnt seem to lay nearly as well as solvent based paints. I figure cause water is the heaviest liquid around so it doesnt quite atomize as easily. The color matching seems to be more volatile to me but getting that down will come with more experience. During the sata training they were telling us wed need to buy seperate guns, that any gun that had solvents ran through it would have to be kept seperate from waterbase. Just a ploy to get you to buy more guns I guess cause as long as you clean your gun well and let the thinner evaporate out of there, get some air moving through it. No reactions or anything so far. Ive only used waterbase a few times, were still spraying solvent base dupont chromabase system. But when the mandatory switch comes well have to suck it up and do it.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:32 PM   #25
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It would be up to a moderator if this thread merits a "sticky".

I could do a weekly "how to" article that covers topics that people are most interested in. I will be doing a write up on rust repair within the week. Gotta fix a couple rust spots on the roof of my Impreza.
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