First turbo car/subi tips&opinions?

[lazypnoyboy]

Hey guys so I'm new to the turbo scene as well as subarus. As I stated this is my very first subaru, just got a 2006 wrx with 55k miles. It has some things added to it so let me list it now: Non branded BOV, greddy turbo timer, greddy boost controller, K&N air filter. I was reading in the BOV FAQ that many BOVs are junk. I am especially worried since this is my first turbo car and I don't want to mess the engine up. I am not a racer or anything like it. Sure I'll drive my car hard every once in a while but I'm not planning to track it. I was considering removing the BOV just in case. What your guys' opinion on that? Also I wanted to know about any "special" maintenance that a subaru might need? As far as the turbo goes or just subarus in general? I appreciate all the help and I'm sorry if I've posed some obvious/easy questions. My last 3 cars have all been integras so this is something completely different. Thanks again!

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[Unabomber]

Go to the top of this forum and read the Unabomber's Manifesto. Your answers are there. Remember....your car is not a 1936 Delahaye 135 Competition Sport Coupe, its a modern Subaru. Your owner's manual has your maintenance actions, not the musings of people in their underwear on the internet.

[NoGraffix]

remove bov, replace with stock bpv, good plan =]

[GrimmSpeed]

If your car has not been tuned for the BOV over time it could cause issues. Also most turbo cars will use some oil so be sure to check it every couple thousand miles to be sure it is full. Other than that just stay up on the reccommended service intervals.

-Chris

[fenderwrx]

06 WRX Intake design dumps blowoff back into the intake manifold (aka Bypass); that, with the manual boost controller could essentially = an epically cooked piston and or turbo at some point. I'd look into ECU flashing with different essential bolt-ons. Cobb Tuning makes extensive mods for the hawkeye WRX's.

[liv4psi]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

If your car has not been tuned for the BOV over time it could cause issues. Also most turbo cars will use some oil so be sure to check it every couple thousand miles to be sure it is full. Other than that just stay up on the reccommended service intervals.

-Chris

How do you tune for a bov, and how does it hurt the car over time? As far as I know none of that is true.

[sanguines]

Originally Posted by liv4psi

How do you tune for a bov, and how does it hurt the car over time? As far as I know none of that is true.

You will be super rich when you shift; I assume the idea would be to avoid that to the extent possible. You're probably looking at fouled plugs at a minimum.

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by liv4psi

How do you tune for a bov, and how does it hurt the car over time? As far as I know none of that is true.

From Unabomber. Hope it helps.

Are there any negative effects with aftermarket BOVs? Yes. The downside of releasing the air to atmosphere is that it has already been metered by the mass air sensor, and when it blows off, the ECU will be injecting the wrong amount of fuel into the cylinders. The engine temporarily runs rich, meaning too much fuel is injected into the cylinders. On most tunes the target A/F under boost is @11.1:1 or so. Say you are at 11.1:1, then you shift and it vents. It will swing rich, typically to around 9.5:1. That is not that rich and this period lasts for under one second...again, nothing to write home about.

This temporary rich condition isn’t usually that harmful. Technically, it can eventually foul spark plugs and even clog the catalytic converter as unburned fuel on the catalytic converter burns very hot, and too much of it can melt the cat. The odds of either of these two conditions actually happening is very, very low though, but that's the theory.

As to blanket "you'll run rich" statements, a BOV will only run "rich" during hard acceleration and shifting as 99% of the time it stays closed.

Can my tuner or engine management tune out this rich period? Yes. There are some forms of engine management that can tune this out. Buying your engine managment soley for this purpose is a poor method of choosing an engine managment system though.

[Tweeder]

^^^ I know you know way more about anything subaru than myself but the quote you have quoted doesn't seem to be the typical dangers of running a blow of valve.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1602235

Here is the actual stickied thread about blow off valves. A really good read.

*edit* upon further reading of the thread he talks about a leaky valve makes a turbo work harder causing premature wear on the turbo and higher egt's which over time can cause an engine failure


OP if it is a no name brand bov I would go back to stock, and have a local tuner check for some sort of aftermarket tune on the vehicle. The fact that there is a boost controller on the vehicle makes me think some one tried uping the boost and there is an aftermarket tune on it.

I would get rid of the bov not because it is a bov but it is a no name bov. It probably wont stay in adjustment and is constantly leaking. If you like the sound though, get one that has been proven to be a good unit.

[lazypnoyboy]

Thanks guys for all the help really appreciate it, also have another quick question. I'm not sure what's happening but within a day or 2 the clutch engagement point changed drastically. It went from engaging about 75% of the way up to all the way at the top. Also I'm getting Major clutch slippage. This is out of the blue I'm not sure what's happening. I was testing it in first gear, and I can let go of the clutch and not give it gas and the car won't stall? I'm not sure this is normal, please help? thanks

[lazypnoyboy]

Originally Posted by fenderwrx

06 WRX Intake design dumps blowoff back into the intake manifold (aka Bypass); that, with the manual boost controller could essentially = an epically cooked piston and or turbo at some point. I'd look into ECU flashing with different essential bolt-ons. Cobb Tuning makes extensive mods for the hawkeye WRX's.

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely look into some cobb tuning mods. As of right now, I'm trying to fix the clutch problem though (posted below)

[oaklandish_WRX]

I have a stock BPV I Can sell... pm me.
Welcome to the club!

[Nicklz]

due to the fact your new to subaru's and not exactly sure the extent to what mods have been done to your vehicle. I'd recommend finding a trusted Subaru shop in your area. Subaru specialist shop or other speed shops are often better and cheaper than Dealership service.

Where you located? Maybe someone can point you in the right direction..

1- sounds like you need a Subaru garage
2- how many miles? you may have other routine maintenance due
3- and overall inspection would be a good idea imo

[NoGraffix]

Originally Posted by lazypnoyboy

Thanks guys for all the help really appreciate it, also have another quick question. I'm not sure what's happening but within a day or 2 the clutch engagement point changed drastically. It went from engaging about 75% of the way up to all the way at the top. Also I'm getting Major clutch slippage. This is out of the blue I'm not sure what's happening. I was testing it in first gear, and I can let go of the clutch and not give it gas and the car won't stall? I'm not sure this is normal, please help? thanks

Sounds like your clutch is on it's way out. Get it into 1st then quickly shift to 4th and accelerate hard. If it slips the clutch is toasted, if it holds and just accelerates slowly then it lives. This is a nitty gritty way of testing a clutches wear and tear. Hopefully you got $1000 for a replacement.

[Davenow]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

Can my tuner or engine management tune out this rich period? Yes. There are some forms of engine management that can tune this out. Buying your engine managment soley for this purpose is a poor method of choosing an engine managment system though.

That statement is so misleading as to almost be entire untrue.

The ONLY way you can "tune around" it, is to go to an engine management solution that no longer uses the MAF for metering fuel. In other words, you have to go speed density. At that point you dont have to tune around it, because it isnt a problem anymore.



For all intents and purposes, the answer for that question should just be NO, as when applying that question to the vast majority of people, the answer IS, no.

[Davenow]

Originally Posted by lazypnoyboy

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely look into some cobb tuning mods. As of right now, I'm trying to fix the clutch problem though (posted below)

Dont thank him. That advice pretty much sucks. There is next to no explaination, the way he words it is misleading and will lead to misconceptions, and he acts like all of that doesnt apply to all years.


A manual boost controller is FINE, on ANY year WRX, as long as you get tuned to handle it. Once that is done, rock the MBC all you want, safely, forever.

The BOV, he is entirely, 100% wrong. There is 0.0% chance it can lead to a cooked piston or turbo. In fact, a "cooked turbo" is something that almost never happens, and never, EVER, from a BOV. Or an MBC for that matter.

[Davenow]

Originally Posted by liv4psi

How do you tune for a bov, .

You go to engine management that can do speed density based fueling.

"tuning for a bov" is impossible. Speed density doesnt tune for it, it eliminates the need to tune for it, as it no longe has any affect on the way the engine determines fueling needs.