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Old 10-04-2011, 08:51 PM   #26
b0dh1
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Hey krayzie,

I installed the same kit today and I'm stuck where you were on post 20. I've been frantically searching hidplanet (and here, google, etc) but cant find a wiring diagram.
Any chance you may have a bookmark you saved?
Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:30 AM   #27
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How to: Install Morimoto RetroQuik brackets on 08+ Subaru Impreza
Tools Required:
- Oven or heatgun
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- small 8mm crescent wrench
- 8mm socket wrench
- Spring clamps
- Oven mitts/work gloves

Notes:
- This is a demo of the complete bolt-on bi-xenon headlight upgrade for the 06-07 and 08+ Subaru Impreza headlights. The kit allows the Morimoto Mini bi-xenon projectors to mount inside the Impreza headlights with no permanent modifications/cutting/guess work.

- Discussion around this product here: http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,14903.0.html
- and more if you scroll down here: http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf...2588#msg252588

- Kits are also available for other applications such as the new Mazda 3, Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, Toyota 4 runner, Scion TC, Scion xB.

Patent pending, 2010 The Retrofit Source LLC

Product used: Morimoto Retro-quik kit from The Retrofit Source
- Morimoto Mini D2S bi-xenon projectors
- Morimoto D2S bulbs
- Matsu****a Gen IV ballasts
- 06-10 Impreza mounting brackets
- Morimoto standalone H11 relay wire harness

Step 1: Remove all wiring, housing caps, bulb sockets, etc from back of headlight housings.

IMG_3673.jpg

Step 2: Remove screws from the perimeter of the headlight housings.

IMG_3674.jpg IMG_3675.jpg

Step 3: Place the headlight into a pre-heated oven on the middle rack (or whatever area is farthest away from the heating elements) for 7 minutes at 275 degrees F. Do not walk away or forget what your doing!

IMG_3670.jpg IMG_3677.jpg

Step 4: Put on your oven mitts or work gloves and remove the headlight from the oven. Start prying away with your thin flat blade screw driver around the perimeter of the housing. Starting at a corner is usually best, and working the areas with the clips helps also. The headlight should separate relatively easily. (recommendation: put something down like cardboard box or towel so you dont scratch up the lens while working on the housing) Put the lens aside where it wont get dusty inside, scratched, etc.

IMG_3680.jpg IMG_3683.jpg

Step 5: Remove the turn signal reflector and amber diffuser.

IMG_3685.jpg IMG_3686.jpg

Step 6: Look at the backside of the housing, you will see one exposed aiming adjuster screw, and another one that is covered with a cap. Pop the cap off with a flat blade screw driver so you have access to both.

IMG_3676.jpg

Step 7: Use your 8mm socket to loosen both aiming adjusters all the way (turn to the left as if they are just normal screws you're trying to un-do) this will release 2/3's of the mounts that hold the bracket inside the headlight.

IMG_3688.jpg

Step 8: Locate the 3rd mount towards the middle of the bracket. You have 2 options here, either remove it from the bracket (like we did) or drill a small hole in it to get to the bottom screw and thus un-do the whole thing from the back of the housing. We opted for option A even though it takes a little longer, just to make this project fully mod-free.

IMG_3691.jpg IMG_3693.jpg

Step 9: Un-screw the stock halogen projector from the reflector bracket.

IMG_3927.jpg

OEM halogen projector vs. Morimoto Mini D2S w/ RetroQuik brackets installed:

IMG_3929.jpg

Step 10: Bolt the new Morimoto projector back onto the bracket using the original screws.

IMG_3936.jpg IMG_3931.jpg

Step 11: Clean the D2S light bulb with the provided alcohol prep pad and insert it into the back of the projector. The order of installation goes: Bulb, split metal ring, rubber washer, end-cap.

IMG_3930.jpg

Step 12: Clean everything (inside of housing) projector lens, etc to make sure no dust, finger prints, etc will remain inside the sealed housings. Reinstall the finished assembly back into the housing in the reverse order it was removed in.

IMG_3691.jpg IMG_3688.jpg

Step 13: Put the turn signal reflector (that we removed in step 5) back into the housing. (leave the amber diffuser out if you want to go with clear corners)

IMG_3686.jpg IMG_3685.jpg

Step 14: Pre-heat oven back to 275 degrees F.

IMG_3670.jpg

Step 14: Place the front lens back onto the housing in roughly the correct orientation.

Step 15: Re-heat the entire headlight housing to soften the original glue and press the two halves back together. Work your way around the edge with some pliers and make sure all of the clips on the back of the housing are lined up and holding onto their relative tabs on the front lens. Use some high tension spring clamps spaced evenly around the housing to hold the assembly together while the glue cools down and hardens. If any gap remains, you can use clear silicone caulk in between the two halves of the housing to ensure a perfect seal.

IMG_3989.jpg

Step 16: Remove the igniter from the Matsu****a ballast (small screw on top face of ballast computer, and brown depression clip leading to the mesh cord). Then string the igniter through the hole on the bottom side of the housing so the bulb socket is inside, and the brown socket comes through the bottom.

IMG_3993.jpg

Step 17: Place the included rubber o-ring on the flange of the Matsu****a ballast and bolt it up to the bottom of the housing. (silicone shown here, we're actually providing properly sized rubber o-rings now)

IMG_3990.jpg IMG_3996.jpg

Step 18: Reinstall all the items that were removed in step 1 to the back of the housing, plug in the ballasts to the Morimoto standalone harnesses, and remount the headlights. You can run the bi-xenon solenoid wires from the Morimoto projectors in with the wires that power the halogen high beam bulb (+/-) with the included crimp-on wire taps to make the bi-xenon high beams work along with the halogen high beams for added illumination.

IMG_3673.jpg

Step 19: Mount the headlights back on the car.

Step 20: Refer to this post for aiming instructions:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...HID-headlights

Enjoy!
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:34 PM   #28
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^^^^^^^^^^
Your images don't work because it looks like they were linked to your HD and not to an online file sharing source.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:40 PM   #29
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interested to see the pictures because i want to do this.

upload your pics dude.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
interested to see the pictures because i want to do this.

upload your pics dude.
I found this link. He copied the post. In the post there, the links are active.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...Subaru-Impreza
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsutton1223
Putting an eBay HID kit in your halogen projectors is what you want to stay away from.
I did it in my '09 2.0R before I read this topic. I didn't even know there were better options as those offered at TRS. Can you explain what would change if I had used D2S in HID projectors instead of H11 HIDs in halogen projectors?

Thanks!
Tales
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-rentt View Post
In the little research I have done others have changed their headlight housings to STI housings. You are saying that you got great results without doing this thought, right?
Don't think this is a "plug and play" hid kit with bulbs and ballasts.
He did a proper HID retrofit by disassembling the lights and installing HID projectors in place of the original Halogen ones.

I plan to do this in the very near future as well.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:49 PM   #33
phenryiv1
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Has anyone who did this installed yellow bulbs in place of the OEM white high beam bulbs? I just ordered the RetroQuik setup through the TacomaWorld group deal, so I will have the bi-xenon setp in the near future.

With the bi-xenon wired up to provide ample high beam light, I wonder if having yellow DRLs and a supplemental yellow high beam (as needed) might improve visibility.

Thoughts?
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:00 AM   #34
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For those interested in Morimoto Minis, I'd recommend the H1s. Their distance and coverage is a lot better than the D2Ss.

They also can be color modded, and the D2S cannot without destroying the cutoff and the straightness of the beam.

The downfall is they use H1 bulbs, and the only option is aftermarket.
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:00 AM   #35
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oops.

Last edited by Smoke; 10-19-2011 at 02:51 AM.
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:41 PM   #36
phenryiv1
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Just did my install today. Other than the instructions on HIDplanet, any good advice for how to properly aim them? The retrofit process requires that you totally FUBAR the OEM aim settings.

HIDplanet link:

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...l=1#post101474
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:55 PM   #37
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bump? I'm interested in this process

thanks
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:10 PM   #38
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordicjim View Post
bump? I'm interested in this process

thanks
I made a new thread that discusses post retrofit aiming. It is on page 1 here. I'll link to it when I am not on my phone.

Edit: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2256656
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Old 10-30-2011, 01:02 AM   #39
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I just did this retrofit today. Instructions would have helped but I figured out that I was sent the wrong harness. And the harness I was sent had labels on it, one of which was incorrectly labeled high beam when it should have been labeled low beam. Also, I could find no way to remove the old projectors without disassembling them. And the new projectors had to be disassembled as well in order to fit them in. Also, the only way to get the projectors in or out was to remove the turn signal reflector. Not a big deal but no one else mentioned it.

Warning to everyone else out there, the low and high beam reflector are one single piece of plastic which is very fragile. Once you adjust the two aiming screws to their limits, you are placing a twisting pressure on that reflector. I managed to crack both left and right reflectors along the dividing line between low and high beams even when I was being extremely careful. They went back together just fine and I don't think it will cause any issues, but just go very slowly during this step. And once the reflector craxks, it leaves a white powder on the inside of the headlight that you might have a hard time cleaning out. I used canned air.

Also, this was mentioned in the mazda instructions but it bears repeating. Use a sharpie or other felt tip marker to mark the location of the reflector housing before you start to turn those adjustment screws. Reaiming the left/right aim is a royal pain in the ass once the headlights are reinstalled. So if you mark them, you can return them to stock once the new projectors are installed and just have to adjust the up and down which is easy.

If you find that you DO have to adjust the left right aiming, the method I used was to put an 8mm socket on the adjusting bolt and I used a pair of pliers to rotate the socket. Worked fine but it wasn't super fun.

This install was very difficult for me...until I figured out that I had to disassemble the old and new projectors. Once I figured that out, the install went a lot more smoothly.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:30 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnyfilmboy View Post
I just did this retrofit today. Instructions would have helped..

Warning to everyone else out there, the low and high beam reflector are one single piece of plastic which is very fragile. Once you adjust the two aiming screws to their limits, you are placing a twisting pressure on that reflector. I managed to crack both left and right reflectors along the dividing line between low and high beams even when I was being extremely careful. They went back together just fine and I don't think it will cause any issues, but just go very slowly during this step. And once the reflector craxks, it leaves a white powder on the inside of the headlight that you might have a hard time cleaning out. I used canned air.

Also, this was mentioned in the mazda instructions but it bears repeating. Use a sharpie or other felt tip marker to mark the location of the reflector housing before you start to turn those adjustment screws. Reaiming the left/right aim is a royal pain in the ass once the headlights are reinstalled. So if you mark them, you can return them to stock once the new projectors are installed and just have to adjust the up and down which is easy.

If you find that you DO have to adjust the left right aiming, the method I used was to put an 8mm socket on the adjusting bolt and I used a pair of pliers to rotate the socket. Worked fine but it wasn't super fun.

This install was very difficult for me...until I figured out that I had to disassemble the old and new projectors. Once I figured that out, the install went a lot more smoothly.
I REALLY wish that I had posted up my post-install notes and impressions to help you avoid this issue. I, too, had the problem with cracking the inner housing when removing the adjusters. I had to make a tool to help unscrew the center pivot bolt (which TRS mistakenly thought had a philips head when they talk about drilling a small hole in the back of the housing).

I managed to only crack 1 of the housings, but the real problem is that following the directions as they are stated on HID planet gives you a pretty good chance of cracking the housing. Also, they really should remove the part of their how-to that references drilling the hole to remove the center mounting point onthe inner housing. I followed their directions (both on the internet and when I called for technical support) and there is NO benefit (or reason) to drill the hole in the back- it leads to the back of a ball and socket swivel joint.

I found that when the whole assembly is hot and you remove the cover, you can get a really thin wrench between the inner and outer housings and pop the center pivot out of the cup that it sits in. You have to slowly work the adjusters loose, working side to side. When it gets tight enough to start to feel resistance, use the wrench to pop out the center point, then continue loosening the adjusters.

When reassembling, tighten the adjusters until the ball comes in contact with the socket, then gently tighten it a turn or so at a time untill you can press the ball back in. It really takes as much finesse as it does actual skill.

I plan to contact TRS for the rights to their pictures to do a better (more accurate) writeup, but they are not going to like my general feedback on the setup. For what I paid, the cost/benefit was not that great, and I had to do some significant work on the bracket that they sent.

For example, they file off a corner of their standard bracket to make it fit in the OEM location, but they did not file off enough on one of the ones that I received. Also, the projectors had metal shavings all over them, and in places that were difficult/impossible to access.

Your compressed air idea was a good one, which leads me to the idea that TRS should really have a better "what you need before you get started" tools & materials list.

They neglected to mention extra alcohol wipes (2 for the whole setup? Really? It took 2 just to clean up the metal shavings!), a quality cleaning solution for the cover and chrome parts of the housing, a very, VERY narrow/thin 8mm box end wrench, and a dremel or file (in the event that they under-filed the bracket, like they did on mine).

If you only own 1 car and you have it taken apart, it is not exactly easy to run to the store to buy the things that they neglected to mention.

To be clear, they seemed like great guys, and overall, the product is a good one...but I'd like to see better and more accurate technical support. It isn't that they were not willing to help, but the help was too little and too late.

Here are some random pictures of my install issues:

Here is the crack that results from following their directions, as written. When you undo the 2 adjustors without popping or loosening the center point, you get a crack like this:



Here is the back of that center attachment point. TRS said to drill right behind it (from the back) and insert a #2 philips screw driver to remove the "screw" (their word) from the front part of the inner housing.



Here is the wrench that I made using a smallpiece of aluminum flat stock, a hacksaw, and a file. I used it to loosen the threaded part on the first one that I did, then onece the gap opened up a little, I was able to use a regular 8mm wrench. On the second one, I found it easier to use the wrench to pry the ball out of the socket (as described above).

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Old 11-22-2011, 07:53 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krayzie View Post
Yeah I know. Ill fix it one day.
I just did my retrofit, and my rotation was a bit off also. Do you have to bake the headlights again to fix it?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doomskies View Post
I just did my retrofit, and my rotation was a bit off also. Do you have to bake the headlights again to fix it?
Yes. No other way to level them out. Be sure to note what direction it it tilted before taking it all apart.

I have a different problem. My cutoff is level, but somehow my passenger inner housing is tilted upward so far that my passenger side DRL is about 1 foot higher than my driver's side at 10' out. I can't get them level without killing my overall alignment.

As drls are for visibility and not for actual output, it isn't a big deal. It is just one of those irritating things that only the owner would ever really notice.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:02 AM   #43
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Just ordered my retroquick... I'm really hoping I'll be able to do it all in one day.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:22 AM   #44
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it doesn't really take that long to do.. but give yourself about 4 hours.. not including adjustment time..

30mins to take off car.. 1-1.5 hours to do the retrofit.. 30 for lunch ... 30 for beer and goofing off.. 30 min to wire everything up and install.. 30 to figure out what you missed..

easy peasy btw get the H1.. they have better output then the D2S
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:41 AM   #45
Bluefoton
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I spoke with TRS, and mentioned the H1 vs D2S comments - nevertheless it didn't seem to be an option for that particular "retro-quick" kit (which includes OEM-type ballasts). I did order the upgraded Phillips capsules though.

Did you need any weird tools or additional sealant? Wondering if I should stockpile on something from Home Depot before I get to work
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:46 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamwrx View Post
it doesn't really take that long to do.. but give yourself about 4 hours.. not including adjustment time..

30mins to take off car.. 1-1.5 hours to do the retrofit.. 30 for lunch ... 30 for beer and goofing off.. 30 min to wire everything up and install.. 30 to figure out what you missed..

easy peasy btw get the H1.. they have better output then the D2S
Pretty accurate time estimates there. The bumper cover removal takes 20 minutes the first time and 10 minutes any time after that. Removing the headlights and taking them apart- 30-40 minutes for the first one and 10 minutes for the second one. Baking them apart, doing the actual retrofit, and re-assembling them- 1 hour for the first one, 30-40 minutes for the second.

Running and wiring the relay harness takes about 10 minutes (not counting the bi-xenon part, which I was too lazy to do) with the bumper cover off.

Re-install of the lights and bumper cover is a 30-minute affair. Just test them out BEFORE you put the cover back on the car.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:49 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluefoton View Post
I spoke with TRS, and mentioned the H1 vs D2S comments - nevertheless it didn't seem to be an option for that particular "retro-quick" kit (which includes OEM-type ballasts). I did order the upgraded Phillips capsules though.

Did you need any weird tools or additional sealant? Wondering if I should stockpile on something from Home Depot before I get to work
You might want extra sealant, but I did not need it. Alcohol wipes are good to have, and those plastic trim tools that you can buy at an automotive store are good to ensure that you don't scratch your lenses when pullin gapart the outer housing.

Have clean gloves for handling the lights, and DON'T OVER-BAKE THE LIGHTS.

Also, mark the "before" position on the headlight adjustors.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:03 PM   #48
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Thanks
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:43 PM   #49
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It seems that one of the morimoto bulbs is not straight. The brightspot is only visible when I open up the cut off (high beams). I contacted TRS to see if maybe I can exchange that bulb.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:56 PM   #50
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Did the retrofit on my wrx, my problem was that I cracked one of the housing, cant really tell. But It got so late when I was doing it, and its my only car so I had to rush it or no lights the next day . Definitely more sealant since one of my lights was open on one part and got some condensation in it. Resealed it and its good, but I can tell when I look real close that stuff got in that can't be removed. Nonetheless, looks great.

Question though, I got 6k HID's but now the high beams look like crap and I messaged TRS about getting high beams and fog lights. Should I get the same kelvin (6k) or what? They said to get the H3C foglight kit, and the 9005 kit. $120 for each kit. Other thing is I no idea where to place the ballasts. And wiring might be odd. Havent seen anyone use their kits on the 2011 wrx, nor any walkthroughs. I'll keep researching unless anyone has some feedback.
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