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Old 11-27-2011, 01:47 PM   #1
Taewrx
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Member#: 300658
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Flagstaff
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default data log check?

so I have had this 2005 wrx for about 2 month I just recently added the AP stage 1 it has a borla exhaust and the rest is bone stock. Now i do live at 7000ft so keep that in mind when looking. now i know the ecu has to learn a new map so i drove it around a bit but i dont think it completely learned yet.
here are my data logs.

This is one starting in first through 3rd to 4th
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...0JubFFzMTVfQmc

this is a 3rd gear WOT
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mEwUnBiZ05hX1E
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:46 PM   #2
ArSoN9
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2004 STi-

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ok well that makes sense you say you live at high elevation since your maf g/s is pretty low and it was making a fair amount of af learning when you started the pull.

You ecu has not fully ramped the IAM to 16 yet so you should go out and take another pull once it has learned the A/F...might take long since the air is thinner by you
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:38 AM   #3
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Taewrx View Post
so I have had this 2005 wrx for about 2 month I just recently added the AP stage 1 it has a borla exhaust and the rest is bone stock. Now i do live at 7000ft so keep that in mind when looking. now i know the ecu has to learn a new map so i drove it around a bit but i dont think it completely learned yet.
here are my data logs.

This is one starting in first through 3rd to 4th
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...0JubFFzMTVfQmc

this is a 3rd gear WOT
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mEwUnBiZ05hX1E
Your dynamic advance multiplier drops in the first log and then settles at 15 (which is also where it is at in the 2nd log). This is an indication of multiple of knock events whenever the DAM drops (except after a reflash/reset where it resets to an initial value - not the case here).

What octane map are you running and what octane gas are you putting in the car? How many miles on the car? How long have you been driving the car since you reflashed the map or installed the AccessPORT?

Bill
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:01 PM   #4
Taewrx
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well it was right after a reflash. I was running the ACN91 stage one v3 so i had to update it to the next version. My car has 67000 miles and i run 91 octane. I have only been driving it maybe a week on v3 and a few days on the new maps. Should I take another run since it was right after a flash and post it?
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:28 PM   #5
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Taewrx View Post
well it was right after a reflash. I was running the ACN91 stage one v3 so i had to update it to the next version. My car has 67000 miles and i run 91 octane. I have only been driving it maybe a week on v3 and a few days on the new maps. Should I take another run since it was right after a flash and post it?
It doesn't really matter that it was soon after the reflash, at least as far as the DAM dropping. The DAM had reached max (16) and then dropped again which requires multiple knock events (or perceived knock events).

What I would do, however, is drive it for another week on the new maps and then see what your long-term fuel trims look like (A/F Learning 1 A, B, C, D). This will tell us if you have any fueling issues. Typical problems with these cars they may be reflected in the long-term fuel trims (with enough driving) are a "tired" MAF sensor, bad front o2, and/or post-MAF intake leaks.

Other issues can cause false knock where the knock sensor picks up something making noise in the engine bay. Examples would be loose turbo heatshield or broken welds on factory uppipe heatshield, among others.

Bill
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #6
Taewrx
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Ok thanks bill ill drive it another week and take a data log. Now i know in the mornings which can get pretty dang cold there is a sligh rattle sound coming from near the cross pipe which dissapears after it warms up . It started rattleing after the dealership fixed my oil o-ring cooler which requires removing the cross pipe. Now I know they didn't put new gaskets or anything in. I am waiting on all new ehaust system ie. downpipe header and up-pipe with grimm speed gaskets. But i have noticed a new problem leaking valve cover gasket! but ill post again next week thanks!!
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:37 PM   #7
Taewrx
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here is a data log with the old maps like a few days before
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2MxODFxN05fdlE
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:05 PM   #8
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Taewrx View Post
here is a data log with the old maps like a few days before
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2MxODFxN05fdlE
There are some extreme long-term fuel trims in that log. That is indicative of a fueling-related issue, which could be any number of things. I would get everything fixed and then go from there. Until then, I would avoid doing any wide open throttle runs.

Bill
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:02 PM   #9
Taewrx
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So what would you recommend to start with besides what I have listed? O I forgot to mention I have a Grimm speed boost controller would that effect. Anything

Last edited by Taewrx; 11-29-2011 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:12 AM   #10
Cobb Tuning
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So what would you recommend to start with besides what I have listed? O I forgot to mention I have a Grimm speed boost controller would that effect. Anything
If it is in interrupt mode, it could cause overboosting, but, otherwise, an aftermarket bcs (or MBC or EBC) will not cause fueling issues.

Any leak post-MAF sensor and pre-front O2 can cause fueling to be off (and therefore impact fuel trims). Other possibilities are a bad MAF sensor, bad front o2 sensor, or using an aftermarket intake that the map is not designed for.

Bill
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:42 PM   #11
Taewrx
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so i got my DAM to read 16 by cleaning the crap out of the MAF then i did a reset of the learning values so i think i am going to have to wait another week. What should the A/F A-D be? is there any exact values or just depending on car and location?
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:17 AM   #12
Cobb Tuning
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so i got my DAM to read 16 by cleaning the crap out of the MAF then i did a reset of the learning values so i think i am going to have to wait another week. What should the A/F A-D be? is there any exact values or just depending on car and location?
Generally, they should be within +/- 5% after a good bit of driving since they were last reset. Anything outside +/- 8% is usually indicative of a problem.

Bill
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