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Old 08-11-2011, 10:17 AM   #26
KevSmu
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I have a Apexi AVCR boost controller and it's currently turned off. So no input is enabled from the boost controller, I have a 18lb spring in it, and I saw 25lbs boost.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #27
IA Performance
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I'm not sure what to tell you. The hoses in our diagram do not conflict or tie into the hoses for boost pressure.

Stephen
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:55 PM   #28
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I no longer have a start issue after re-fueling. Previously, I had to turn the ignition over, wait, and then turn it over again to get it to start. Now it starts on the first try. I took a long 500 mile trip over the weekend and no engine light poped up. However this morning it poped up on my way to work. I'll zip-tie all of the fittings after clearing the code and see if it comes back again. But my guess is, the valve I removed was leaking. So, I am now making more boost and am running leaner over 20psi boost (now max out at 25psi).

This however presents another problem. Since I am running RACEROM density based, the lean condition brought on by the additional boost is cutting fuel pressure. Atleast I think this is why I'm loosing fuel psi. My laptop is being repaired at the moment so I'll have to wait a week or so before I can really get a look at the #'s...

My boost gauge was originally T'ed between the valve I removed and the intake. It now plugs directly into the intake hose-port.

Could I pressureize my fuel tank through a custom fuel cap with an air inlet to find the leak? Will anything negative come from this?
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevSmu View Post
1 - But my guess is, the valve I removed was leaking. So, I am now making more boost and am running leaner over 20psi boost (now max out at 25psi).

2 - This however presents another problem. Since I am running RACEROM density based, the lean condition brought on by the additional boost is cutting fuel pressure. Atleast I think this is why I'm loosing fuel psi. My laptop is being repaired at the moment so I'll have to wait a week or so before I can really get a look at the #'s...

3 - My boost gauge was originally T'ed between the valve I removed and the intake. It now plugs directly into the intake hose-port.
1 - Running more boost will not make you run lean unless you overdraw the fuel system and your fuel pressure drops or your IDC saturates. It's a common misconception that changing the boost level will throw off your AFR. It doesn't, not on a MAF setup, not on a speed density setup.

2 - The lean condition is cutting fuel pressure? That doesn't any make sense. The ECU has no way of controlling fuel pressure beyond the standard fuel pump duty cycle, which goes to 100% as soon as you go WOT. If you're saying the additional draw on the fuel system from the higher air flow rate is dropping fuel pressure because your pump can't keep up, then sure, that's what's causing you go to lean, and it means you need a bigger fuel pump.

3 - Why is your boost gauge attached to the intake?
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:39 PM   #30
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Where should it be connected to?
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:03 PM   #31
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I think you were just missing the word 'manifold' in the original #3 comment.

Intake manifold - correct way, I believe you have it this way now

Intake or Turbo inlet - not correct.

Stephen
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:46 AM   #32
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Intake manifold yes. I found a vacuum cap on the throttle body yesterday that was cracked. Not sure if it was leaking or on the verge of leaking. I replaced it and am waiting to see if anything changes i.e., engine codes thrown or boost variance.
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:42 PM   #33
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No engine code thrown yet, but I'm still periodically losing fuel pressure...
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:01 PM   #34
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What if you removed the OEM fuel lines and have an after market setup? How can I reroute the pcv setup on the manifold? Mostly so can still pass emissions testing.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:02 PM   #35
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Sorry. Wrong thread... Stupid iPhone with multiple windows open.
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Here is another option, it is free and avoids the hassle of the hoses coming off in the future. This is how the JDM ver7/8 STi cars are setup. We have lots of customer cars running this configuration without any CELs or negative side affects.

Two times in the 67K miles I put on my STi I had very strange AFR (super rich) at idle and easy driving.. the first time I messed with the purge valve and got it working (the valve seemed to want to be in exactly vertical position?).. well.. it happened again today after some intense tuning.... I performed the mod IA Performance suggested and the problems went away... I think the stupid valve was allowing boost to leak into the turbo inlet.

The only thing I noticed was that my purge valve bottom (from connector) port was connected to the evaporator tank .... the top port was connected to the intake... (backwards from the schematic IA Performance provided)

I made a few pulls after performing the mod.. my MAS voltage dropped (at given RPM/load) and it went slightly lean... I adjusted the intake calibration to address this and all is well....so far...

Thanks again IA Performance... for the super tip

Jeff
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:23 AM   #37
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happy to help. I'm now looking for the 04-06 and 2007 STi intake manifold diagrams so I may update this post with each model. If someone has these feel free to email over a screen shot to stephen@iaperformance.com

Stephen
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:23 PM   #38
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What is the purpose of the purge valve??? I know it is for emissions, but what exactly does it do? How does it function?
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:43 PM   #39
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Glad i found this! That cluster of vac hoses is a nightmare to mess with. Bump for knowing the actual purpose of the purge valve.
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:20 PM   #40
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Tried this out tonite, had an evap code pop up lately and figured ripping out all that dry rotted vacuum line was a good idea. Will post impressions.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:44 AM   #41
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Been running this deleted section for about 1k miles, and it seems to be doing great. I'm just glad to get rid of that vacuum hose cluster.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:46 PM   #42
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might do this to my car just got a question for anyone that has done this.

what all has to be removed to do this like does the manifold have to come off or can you do it with it still on?
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:59 PM   #43
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Nope, this is all in front. The lines are between/behind the alternator and PS pump.
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:31 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsholt21 View Post
Nope, this is all in front. The lines are between/behind the alternator and PS pump.

yeah i know where the lines to take out are and stuff, then what you just unplug the solonoid?

im talking about the green jumper hose you connect the ia performance shows in the diagram they posted is that hard to get to or do i have to take the alternator off?
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:04 AM   #45
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It's a pain to get to, but I definitely didn't remove my alternator. You can just unbolt the solenoid valve from the intake while you're working with the hoses. I moved the valve back in place by a socket over the bolt with an extension. You may also have to use a bit more line to make it easier to work with, but I can't remember for sure. I'd already replaced all of them with silicone vac hose, so none were pre-molded anyway.
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:17 PM   #46
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great thread thanks this helped me soooo much
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #47
inszelesta
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can anyone post a picture of this mod done thanks
Alan
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:14 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inszelesta View Post
can anyone post a picture of this mod done thanks
Alan
This illustration should do the trick. I find there are too many hoses to make for a simple 'photo'.

Last edited by IA Performance; 01-02-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #49
jdeyo6
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I think this illustration from the manual is wrong, or at least compared to my 04 STI and I have not modified anything with the EVAP system. On my car the hose coming off the (C) evap pipe is split where one hose goes to the bottom port of the (2) purge control solenoid and the other hose goes to the (3) purge valve. The top port of the (2) purge control solenoid valve goes to the intake manifold. I have seen several other STIs and several other pictures on the internet that show this part of the evap system hooked up this way.

Here is how my car is setup from the factory.


The only reason the US cars may have this extra (3) purge valve is to meet some emissions requirements. It looks like the (3) purge valve may allow the evap vapors to be purged while under boost into the turbo inlet. Obviously the (2) purge control solenoid would not want to open while the intake manifold was pressurized as this would send pressure back down the (C) evap pipe.

I am glad IA posted this trick about deleting the (3) purge valve. The (3) purge valve on my car allows air to leak into the turbo inlet at all times. I think the (3) purge valve is only supposed to open once it sees positive pressure from the intake manifold. It should close under vacuum. It does not matter as it wont be on the car anymore. I though I should mention why I am looking at this. Recently my car developed this issue where after filling up the fuel tank it became very hard to start. It starts, but idles real low and rough. If I wait a minute or step on the throttle for a minute it clears up. I think what is happening is the fuel vapors are leaking into the inlet while re-fueling.

Last edited by jdeyo6; 01-08-2012 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:53 PM   #50
Strider327
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I also just got a P0457. I have been following this thread. All fittings were connected, I replaced the gas cap. Still no change with the following problematic symptoms:

Problem 1: After filling up with gas, 1st crank the car starts and then stalls out. After it does, the 2nd crank takes a few seconds to start it up, but starts up fine.

Problem 2: Idle is very rough bounces up and down, feels like its gonna stall out. When I'm parking and in reverse sometimes the idle gets low enough to actually stall out.

What else should I look for? I have a 2004 WRX Hybrid with a Perrin Rotated kit. Any help is greatly appreciated. I was thinking about maybe replacing the Vent Valve 42084FA120. However, I do not know if that will even solve my problem, I'm currently having.
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