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Old 06-28-2011, 05:41 PM   #76
Web Foot STi
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Dreaded Double







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Old 06-30-2011, 11:07 PM   #77
wantsti
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Well the rebuild only took about 2 hours. Sadly I still have the same problem. When I took it all apart all the O rings where still good. Do you think it could be something besides the pump?

I think I'll be ordering me a rebuilt one.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:28 AM   #78
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^ The pump would be my guess.

The other option would be the rack.
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:21 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlucy18 View Post
Thanks for the Tip Rambler323 Just Ordered from the O Ring Store.com

1 x 037 HNBR70 Green O rings = $1.28
1 x 021 HNBR70 Green O rings = $0.52
1 x 015 HNBR70 Green O rings = $0.32
1 x 014 HNBR70 Green O rings = $0.32
1 x 013 HNBR70 Green O rings = $0.32
1 x 136 HNBR70 Green O rings = $1.36

Plus $5 shipping
i changed the o-ring in the PS pump now no leak and running good!!!
i got the same parts from this list and it worked.
when i took my old o-rings out from the PS pump it was all cracking and bad so yeah it was the o-ring problem!
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:15 PM   #80
celer
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Default So what type of o-ring material?

While doing research into what type of o-rings to use:

"The continuing introduction of aggressive chemicals into power steering (and au-
tomatic transmission) fluids in recent years has created compatibility issues with many
proven seal elastomers. For example, the nitrile compound Buna N, the most resilient and
extrusion-resistant seal material ever developed (for example, after 75 years it’s still used
for the o-rings in AN fittings) is subject to shrinkage and embrittlement from contact with
most synthetic fluids. Contrary to their advertising, “performance aftermarket” synthetics
and semi-synthetics are NOT universally suitable for all power steering systems, and in many cases will prove actively destructive. So-called “anti-foaming” agents (usually just a thick-ener whose supposed foam-suppressing action consists of keeping the air bubbles suspended in the oil—exactly where you don’t want them) are another ingredient best avoided. Some other additives, such as those sold to “restore” power steering, will cause Buna N seals tolose their durometer hardness and swell beyond their dimensional tolerances. While that may help a ‘72 Buick, it is guaranteed to cause rough steering in a race car with a four-inch rack."

http://woodwardsteering.com/images/p...components.pdf

Here is another matierials guide, it recommends Polyacrylate or Hydrogenated Nitrile
(HNBR)

www.manuf-rubber.com/pdf/Material%20Guide.pdf

Aflas is suggested here:
http://www.callapg.com/orings.aspx

Hydrogenated Nitrile, HNBR is suggested here:
http://www.orings.com/tech_compound.php

Ethylene Acrylic, Vamac® (AEM), Hydrogenated Nitrile, HNBR, Polyacrylate (ACM):
(For Type 'A' Fluid)
http://www.gallagherseals.com/elasto...roperties.html

POLYACRYLATE from here (type A):
http://www.greatlakesrubber.com/basic_o.html

This link is really awesome it does a good job showing the comparisons:
http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm

The oringstore.com recommends HNBR (which is what I ended up ordering).

Last edited by celer; 09-26-2011 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Found a new link. / More Info
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:15 AM   #81
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I'm going service my pump this weekend. I already have the O-rings and I’ll try to find the bearing an the seal once that I have the old ones spared.

Does anybody know the torque specs for reassemble all together properly?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:35 PM   #82
68Cadillac
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There are no listed specs for Torque on any of the bolts for the power steering pump. Recall that Subaru considers this part "unserviceable". There is no kit to buy from Subaru. Just the entire pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
I call Ken up at my local Subaru and ask for a rebuild kit. Ken quotes me a price well over $400. $400, for a rebuild kit?! Oh no sir. Your pump is unserviceable. That's the price for a new one. Ken's a good guy so I thank him for his time and hang up.

Look up the price of a rebuilt one from Rockauto. $122 if you exchange it with your core. $162 w/o core exchange.
Its the O-rings that hold the fluid in not the clamping force of the bolts torqued in tension. The bolts just hold the o-rings in place. Plus the housing is aluminum so I'd guess 17 ft-lb and you're good.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:20 AM   #83
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I did this this past Saturday. So far so good. Awesome write up. In my experience it would have been nice to have a vise, after you pull the pump out it can be a challenge to break some of the bolts to change out the o0rings. Would have been much easier to put it in a vise and work on it. Other than that the update is pretty straight forward. I've done 99% of the maintenance on my car however I've never done something like this before. I thought it was very interesting to learn the inner working of the pump, i dunno guess that the technical nerd in me. Did anyone ever have any problems that showed up later after doing the rebuild?
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:35 AM   #84
RP31
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Thanks for this great writeup! I just ordered all of the listed parts and am going to attempt the rebuild when they arrive. I've got some weird intermittent problems with the pump, but no leaks. Hopefully this will fix it.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:57 AM   #85
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Where are you guys ordering from?
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:04 PM   #86
RP31
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I went with http://www.oringsusa.com/

Pretty reasonable as far as shipping goes, and I doubled up on all of the necessary o-rings since they are so cheap. Ended up spending about $10 for 2x the o-rings necessary plus shipping. Much better than $150ish for a new pump! Won't get the o-rings until Monday though.
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:36 PM   #87
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Awesome, thanks! Would you be able to post up some of your actual invoice, specifically the items ordered with item numbers and stuff? I'm doing my best but it's pretty confusing and I just want to get it right the first time. Also didn't see any FEP rings but they do have a FFKM Perfluoroelastomer which seems close. They're all out of stock though.
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:51 PM   #88
RP31
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Here is a snippet from the email they sent me after I placed the order:
Code:
Products
------------------------------------------------------
2 x MS28775-015  (9/16 ID X 11/16 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.24
2 x MS28775-017  (11/16 ID X 13/16 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.28
2 x MS28775-021  (15/16 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.28
2 x MS28775-037  (2-1/2 ID X 2-5/8 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.76
2 x MS28775-136  (2 ID X 2-3/16 OD X 3/32 W) () = $0.64
6 x MS28775-014  (1/2 ID X 5/8 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.72
2 x MS28775-013  (7/16 ID X 9/16 OD X 1/16 W) () = $0.24
------------------------------------------------------
I just went with the "hydraulic fluid" o-rings, which should be fine. Each is ordered by the dash number (-013, -136, -037, etc.)
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:59 PM   #89
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Thanks man that is a huge help! It is much appreciated. I think I have the same problem as you, no apparent leaks but intermittent problems that seem to be getting worse. I think there may be a leak behind the pump that's out of view since I have a little fluid on the block. Thought it was just a little bit from where I replaced the inlet o-ring but it's never dried up.

I hope I can get this thing fixed. Driving an STi without power steering is neither fun nor easy. If it was just dead completely it'd be manageable but it wants to cut in and out at the worst possible times like sharp turns and parking lots.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:20 PM   #90
RP31
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I am pretty sure my pump is just sucking air, but after 113K miles, I might as well do the whole thing. Have to go out and buy some worm gear clamps as well to replace the spring clamps on the lines.

And yeah, intermittent PS sucks. Mine likes to cut out when I'm trying to go around the turns in the parking structure at work, which is hard enough already because people are idiots and don't understand that just because there aren't lines, that doesn't mean you should be driving down the middle.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:52 PM   #91
low wrx boi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
There are no listed specs for Torque on any of the bolts for the power steering pump. Recall that Subaru considers this part "unserviceable". There is no kit to buy from Subaru. Just the entire pump.



Its the O-rings that hold the fluid in not the clamping force of the bolts torqued in tension. The bolts just hold the o-rings in place. Plus the housing is aluminum so I'd guess 17 ft-lb and you're good.

i just bought my rebuild kit from the subaru dealership $22.00 it has all the seals and o rings
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:55 PM   #92
RP31
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Oh really? What's the part number?
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:03 AM   #93
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i have already replace the power steering pump in my 02 wrx once, about 50k, again it has decided to quit working, i replaced all the parts with the kit from subaru it has 6 orings 1 seal and 1 snap style ring, i tried rebuilding the first one but it just didnt work, i did notice i had issues with the vanes, and i believe this was the problem, i am going to try again since i have an extra kit, but i was wondering why cant i use the 04+ style??? i have read that the plugs are different or what not, but looking at mine and my friend the top pressure fittings in the same spot, the big lines in the same spot, and the electric plug is pretty close, so not really sure why i cant use it, they 04+ seem to have a better easier feel to the steering wheel

02-03 rebuilt kit number is 34490fe000
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:06 PM   #94
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Does anyone have the dimensions for the long 14mm bolt that goes through the bracket and pump? The head is stripping and it won't come out. I can probably get it out but it probably won't (and shouldn't) go back in.

I'll have to put the leaky pump back on so I can drive it around. It wasn't hard to take the pump out which was nice. Didn't even have to remove the radiator hose, just worked around it. 30 minutes max to take the pump w/bracket out.

EDIT: Here's the bolt if anyone needs it. The head looks rounded from the factory, guess that's just how they make 'em.


Last edited by G-REX; 12-16-2011 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Found it.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:46 AM   #95
RP31
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I finished rebuilding my pump in a couple hours on Friday night, and put screw clamps on all of the lines. Drove it around Saturday and Sunday and I no longer have any shuddering when turning the wheel! Hooray!
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:28 AM   #96
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, hwy61's thread and RP31's part list which is exactly what I purchased. Finished my rebuild this weekend and the steering is PERFECT again.

It wasn't easy especially with the bolt above rusted to the bracket but it was well worth it. When I got the pump open it was clear as day it was leaking through the 037 o-ring. There was fluid all around the outside of the ring. The ring itself was flat, square and as hard as plastic. ALL the rings were like this. I'm surprised these OEM pumps hold any pressure at all.

Once I worked the air out it felt like the car I originally drove off the lot. It was that big of a difference. Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:27 PM   #97
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HAs anyone had issues with the -37 ring? It looks like it may be too thin and blow out. I am on rebuild 4 now in the last few weeks and can not tell if this is the solution or not yet. Still smoking, but I have spilled so much fluid it is hard to tell. I'm going to power wash and take it back out to see if I am still leaking. I am wondering if a -144 would be better at 3/32 instead of 1/16.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:45 PM   #98
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I thought the same thing. The 37 ring is pretty thin in contrast to the groove that it fills and looks like it'll barely seal. Mine's been holding strong for almost a month now although I still kinda worry about it since that's where my original leak was.

I put my faith in hoping the ring would expand and create a better seal and maybe that's what mine's done because it's holding up.

But if I did have to do it again I'd go with a slightly bigger ring as you're suggesting just to be extra safe.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:16 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-REX View Post
I thought the same thing. The 37 ring is pretty thin in contrast to the groove that it fills and looks like it'll barely seal. Mine's been holding strong for almost a month now although I still kinda worry about it since that's where my original leak was.

I put my faith in hoping the ring would expand and create a better seal and maybe that's what mine's done because it's holding up.

But if I did have to do it again I'd go with a slightly bigger ring as you're suggesting just to be extra safe.

I guess if yours has been holding I feel a little better. I could only find 1/8 locally and can tell you that it was too big and it crushed. It lasted a week. Finally got my online order and put in the -37. I really should have metered a metric size. I bet there is something just a touch bigger than 1/16. I am going to power wash my engine bay tonight and drive to see if I have any more smoking. Hard to see the new fluid as it is clear. Just really tired of pulling it and putting it back in. I already stripped the threads for the back bracket bolt when I got it x-threaded.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:00 PM   #100
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OP here.

The -037 I have in mine has held fine for 11 months. I don't see why a -144 wouldn't work but no one's tested it. The biggest issue we have after the rebuild seems to be the double crush washer leaking. Perhaps we shouldn't reuse it.


Double crush washer of problems.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 01-23-2014 at 08:22 PM. Reason: rehosted images
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