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Old 10-20-2011, 08:00 PM   #51
MattTHEpainter
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It is hard to tell depth from those pictures, I would venture a guess and say as long as you squeegie over the scratches and do not press into the scratches you should be fine. I would hit the scratches with some 1000/1500/2000 wet paper, then high speed buff them to see what you are working with. Be careful of the notoriously thin Subaru clear.

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Originally Posted by 13koenig View Post
These are pictures of said scratch. Sorry the only camera I have at school is my phone. It gets deeper than the rest around the end of the driver door and beginning of the passenger door.

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Old 10-20-2011, 11:11 PM   #52
13koenig
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Alrighty, thanks for the help man. Just for clarification, though, what might be the best process to go about what you've suggested? I'm quite the noob when it comes to body work since the only body work I've ever remotely done was with the sheet metal on a dirt track car. >.<
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:35 PM   #53
BlackFly
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Hey guys, esp MattTHEpainter lol

Looking for a bit of advise, I have and 02 Blazin Yellow that is in mucho need of some paint. I'm now stationed at a location that gives me access to a paint booth So aside from painting bumper to bumper I have minor body work to do from door dings, scuffs and scratches ect. Also removing the wing so I will have some trunk holes filled(that doesn't sound right) new STI hood scoop and side skirts.

My big question is should I roll it in and do the entire car at once, or strip her down aka side skirts, hood, trunk, F & R bumpers, doors and then the rest of the body? If I do strip her and do it piece by piece what issues might I run into with possible slight mismatch in shades? Also I'm going to repaint in Blazin Yellow, Banana FTW

Thx for all advise.

Jimmy
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:23 PM   #54
MattTHEpainter
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Thats great having access to a booth.

If you do not plan on repainting the jambs, I would only take off the: F/R bumpers, mirrors, door handles, side skirts. Then painting those separately from the body.

Painting piece by piece could yield a slight variance in color depending on coverage.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:26 PM   #55
BlackFly
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Yes I'm not planning on messing with the jambs, sticking with the OEM color shouldn't be an issue.

Thx for the heads up, when the project start time approaches you can expect more questions that I'm sure I'll have.

Jimmy
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:57 PM   #56
wayward167
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2011 wrx side badges and silver trunk finisher...

I went to paint the side "wrx / / / " piece and the plastic paint doesn't stick....are these special plastic or possibly aluminium?

This same paint is what I used to match the center caps to my winter wheels...krylon plastic paint

I want to paint the trunk piece as well but $97 for a carbon fiber overlay is not something I want to do.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:47 AM   #57
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayward167 View Post
2011 wrx side badges and silver trunk finisher...

I went to paint the side "wrx / / / " piece and the plastic paint doesn't stick....are these special plastic or possibly aluminium?

This same paint is what I used to match the center caps to my winter wheels...krylon plastic paint

I want to paint the trunk piece as well but $97 for a carbon fiber overlay is not something I want to do.
How did you prep the badge and trunk finisher prior to applying paint?
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:58 PM   #58
wayward167
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I cleaned them, but didn't sand since paint claimed it wasn't required for plastic....didn't see a primer for the plastic paint line either, should I use standard primer of the same brand?

Is that my problem? If so what grit would you recommend?
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:08 PM   #59
MattTHEpainter
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What type of paint was it?

Are these the chrome emblems? If so, you should definitely sand them down with a 600 grit wet paper. Adhesion promoter such as bulldog would help as well. Light coats of paint.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:03 PM   #60
wayward167
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Krylon plastic satin black paint....I'm pretty sure they are plastic but I don't know...
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:57 PM   #61
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if it was done right would it be ok to respray the front half of my car, blending in to the rear? the hood,front bumper and parts of the fenders are chipped up pretty good. i would also like to get the rear fender trim (07 sti) done as well.

would it be cheaper this way than a full respray?
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:16 PM   #62
geist
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Here's a pretty generic question for ya'll.
I have a project car that isn't in horrible shape, but will need a couple spots of rust fixed, and I intend on having the entire car repainted afterwards. This is kind of an overwhelming project and would like to know, in what order, you would approach such a task? One panel at a time? Pull the whole car apart, etc? Just curious to see what people think the best approach is.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:56 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDspider View Post
if it was done right would it be ok to respray the front half of my car, blending in to the rear? the hood,front bumper and parts of the fenders are chipped up pretty good. i would also like to get the rear fender trim (07 sti) done as well.

would it be cheaper this way than a full respray?
Depending on the parts of the fender/hood that are chipped, and color, a body shop may be able to isolate the blends to only the front fenders and hood. If the damage is on the rear half of said parts then a front door and a-pillar blend may be required. It will definitely be much cheaper to only re-spray the front body parts without the doors because not much R/I is required, aside from the removal of front bumper/headlights.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:20 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geist View Post
Here's a pretty generic question for ya'll.
I have a project car that isn't in horrible shape, but will need a couple spots of rust fixed, and I intend on having the entire car repainted afterwards. This is kind of an overwhelming project and would like to know, in what order, you would approach such a task? One panel at a time? Pull the whole car apart, etc? Just curious to see what people think the best approach is.
Where is the rust? Gotta love living in New England.

If you have never done anything like this before take a very systematic approach. Take your time, take a lot of "before" pictures for comparison during reassembly. Take notes, create a "to-do" list so you can check off your tasks as you go. This will give you a feeling of accomplishment and motivation to finish.

Work on one area at a time, don't bounce panel to panel, you will become overwhelmed much easier if you do so. As you begin to tackle your project feel free to ask as many questions as needed.
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:26 PM   #65
griffinwert
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So I had my car repainted by a guy who clearly wanted out of bodywork, repainted the whole car, and every place where he used bondo, you can see the bondo. My question is, he used a one stage paint that I still have about a quart of; if i wanted to redue and blend in the spots how much work am I looking at? Any chance clearing over it would improve the fade factor?
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:09 PM   #66
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffinwert View Post
So I had my car repainted by a guy who clearly wanted out of bodywork, repainted the whole car, and every place where he used bondo, you can see the bondo. My question is, he used a one stage paint that I still have about a quart of; if i wanted to redue and blend in the spots how much work am I looking at? Any chance clearing over it would improve the fade factor?
It would depend on the part of the car you were looking to repair. If you are going to finish it with a single stage paint you will have to repaint the entire panel with a slim chance of being able to use blends. When you say that "you can see the bondo"; are you implying that the paint is transparent or you can see the raised outline?

To answer your other question would depend on the brand of single stage. Many single stages can not be cleared over with any type of success.
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #67
griffinwert
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Just took a closer look at it, you can see pitting in some spots and bondo lines on others. Apparently he some spots in the thirty hours he charged for sanding..I'm hoping blending won't be an issue because it was only a year ago that it was painted. I will give him one thing, the paint was a pretty good match, just put psm sti front splitters on and the match is close.The quart he gave me is BASF r-m Diamont c2m ma 253.43 if that helps
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:15 PM   #68
MattTHEpainter
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Bump it to the top. Maybe we can corral some of those wheel painting questions here.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:59 PM   #69
Tanktheory
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Bump for some good information that you don't see everyday
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:03 AM   #70
ricky350
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Thanks for sharing wonderful post here. I really needed to get an auto body work for my house and car. My friend suggested me to take a look at this site and search for auto body works so I got it here.


Auto Body
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:54 PM   #71
MattTHEpainter
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Bringing it up.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:56 PM   #72
Tanktheory
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Bump for those who want to get educated.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:02 AM   #73
john3dpeople
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Great Thread! I'm eventually going to have to do some bodywork on my 02 wrx its starting to look like its 10 years old!

Matt- I've seen several members paint or had their cars painted flat black. I not sure if I love the look but, it is definitely unique. Do they have any type of clear coat on? Or do they have some kind of matte finish? It seems like this would be more forgiving than trying to get the high gloss look but I'm a bit worried that if there is no clear coat over it that the paint would deteriorate quickly.

I'd rather learn how to do all this and do it well than pay someone else who doesn't really care about my car

+1 for the sticky!
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:18 AM   #74
Clutch987
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Hopefully quick question for you guys. Long story short, Last October I had my '11 STI in the shop to get a cracked front bumper replaced and while it was there someone backed into it and hit the trunk lid around the bottom right corner of the license plate. They put on a new trunk lid, painted, and then I checked their work. Then they put the license plate back on. Here is my problem, the corner of the plate was bent in slightly, and rubbed a small hole through the paint and has started to rust a bit.

Whats the best way to patch this up? I assume some sort of paint touch up pen for the Paint (WRB). Anything need to be done to the spot for prep?
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:55 AM   #75
4ndy
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2326155
how much should it cost around to have a shop make my bumper fit flush again, is there anything i can do on my own to make it sit flush? It droops down every few days and i can lift it back up gently and it sits a little tighter than shown in the pics but still definetly isnt flush.

how much would it cost around to get the fender resprayed + rear pannel?
appreciate any input and I understand if you cant really guesstimate how much itl be.
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