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Old 01-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #2376
azscooby
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Zaider, the vendor I'm working with now says I'll need the r160 from a 2.5rs that has the 3.90 differential, is that correct?

I don't want to have to swap hubs, as that would mean new tires, brakes, etc...

Who's right?
T

I can get the tranny, rear diff and all for axles for an extra $2800 (give or take.)

Worth it? Or go for taller geared USDM STI...? But not as cheap.

This is dd for me, maybe 5 miles per day at highway speed, otherwise stop and go traffic and weekend mountain runs.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #2377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OppositeLock

Bumping this question to see if anyone has info on this. I haven't really heard anything about the pickups, but want to be sure I shouldn't replace mine.
Clark talks about a v7.
V8+ Use the USDM oil pan and pickup.
I've confirmed the part numbers, v8+ replace the pickups with KillerB.
I did.
The twinscroll requires the new style pan.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:53 PM   #2378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Zaider, the vendor I'm working with now says I'll need the r160 from a 2.5rs that has the 3.90 differential, is that correct?

I don't want to have to swap hubs, as that would mean new tires, brakes, etc...

Who's right?
T

I can get the tranny, rear diff and all for axles for an extra $2800 (give or take.)

Worth it? Or go for taller geared USDM STI...? But not as cheap.

This is dd for me, maybe 5 miles per day at highway speed, otherwise stop and go traffic and weekend mountain runs.
If it's the JDM six speed, it should be just like the US and need the 3.90 - they are right - you'll need the R160 from an old imprezza. Be mindful - they usually dont have limited slips. I was gonna yank the R/P from one and install in my WRX, but the LSD was shot in it, so Im running open diff in the rear.

If you go that route, you will also need an automatic driveshaft, the trans mount from the six speed.

If the trans doesnt have the right sensors, the 5 speed stuff will swap over.

I dont know how the JDM stuff worked, but your front axles can be either male or female. The trans may have stub axles - check and make sure or you will need new front axles.

If you buy the whole trans, axles and diff, you may in the clear. Im not sure on the JDM stuff - if you do the US STI, I think you'd need the knuckles and all.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:54 PM   #2379
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Is replacing the pickup and pan a recommendation, or something that really should be done?
My car won't see any track days, just hot days in AX.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:56 PM   #2380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Clark, thanks for the input.
I believe you more than I believe the vendors, but they tell the customers that the engines were taken out of running cars....not wrecked ones.
I think both Clark and the vendor are right.

The car was running right up to the point it ran off the cliff!

LOL
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:00 PM   #2381
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Langsbr-
I would be buying the transmission, rear differential, axles, linkage, and whatever else that comes with it.


If that's the case, would I still need rear diff from old impreza? Doesn't make sense, should the jdm all match up?
Their axles in their six speed with their rear diff and everything else.

Only difference would be my hubs, which are wrx 5*100. I also have 4/2 pot brakes.
As long as the axles fit into my hubs I would basically be doing a complete swap, right?
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:14 PM   #2382
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Nevermind, I figured it out, the jdm rear axles will not go into my hubs.
I would need sti hubs, which would necessitate 5*114, or the r160 from an older impreza that would have my size of axles.

Sound right?
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:18 PM   #2383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby
Is replacing the pickup and pan a recommendation, or something that really should be done?
My car won't see any track days, just hot days in AX.
See my previous post. This stems from the broken oil pickup thread. Read it and see if you want to spend $350 to protect your V8+ investment.
It's not an upgrade as much as it is insurance against brazing failure that is documented to have happened to the ej257 engines. The 207 v8+ uses the same part number.
KillerB thinks that an accident can be a factor further pushing that brazing towards cracking.
The oil pan has nothing to do with this and you can keep it....

Also, AZ, diversify a little:
Join this conversation about rear differentials
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2295969
Read about 6 speed swaps
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...201152&page=20

Read the oil pickup failure thread

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1553337

BTW, I went through this a few pages back. I think that the vendors want you to make hybrid axles for the rear, but read about hybrid axles in the differential thread.
There are people in the transmission forum that do swaps very often and have answers.

Last edited by Vlad; 01-24-2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:41 PM   #2384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaider View Post
Wasn't an issue for me. My JDM V7 STI ecu is tuned using Rom-Raider and a tactrix.
But do you have the JDM body harness with the ECU on the left side? You connect to the ECU on the right side then.
I say this because the wiring diagram really does show different pins for the connector for the OBDII.
I don't know if it works or not, but the fact that My JDM ECU connects fine via the USDM body harness OBDII and responds well to tactrix, is not indicative that the pins are right for it in the JDM OBDII configuration.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:27 PM   #2385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Langsbr-
I would be buying the transmission, rear differential, axles, linkage, and whatever else that comes with it.


If that's the case, would I still need rear diff from old impreza? Doesn't make sense, should the jdm all match up?
Their axles in their six speed with their rear diff and everything else.

Only difference would be my hubs, which are wrx 5*100. I also have 4/2 pot brakes.
As long as the axles fit into my hubs I would basically be doing a complete swap, right?
If its a v8 trans, you can use your current axles provided you buy axle stubs for the front and you either swap your bugeye r160 with an older 3.90 r160 or just swap your ring and pinion in your rear diff with a 3.90 ring/pinion. Get new axle seals while your at it.
Use an automatic wrx driveshaft or use the STi driveshaft.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #2386
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as stated above just buy a cheap 3.9 ratio r160. then take the r/p out of it and put it into your lsd r160. that way you have lsd in the rear. my friend had a open 3.90 r160 and we went through three of them in two months. open diffs in the rear like to break spider gears quickly! he was on a 30r on the ej205. we did three launches on one and it was gone. only lasted 20 minutes. thank god the local scrap yard gave us a one year warranty on it. and when they ran out of them they gave him a full refund lol. now its a 3.90 r160 with a 3.54 r160lsd.

a auto wrx driveshaft might be hard to find but is needed because of the different length.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:52 PM   #2387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post

a auto wrx driveshaft might be hard to find but is needed because of the different length.
definitely harder to find used, but they aren't terribly expensive from the dealership. If you search around the transmission forum, there used to be a thread with the 3.90 ring and pinion part numbers.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #2388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
See my previous post. This stems from the broken oil pickup thread. Read it and see if you want to spend $350 to protect your V8+ investment.
It's not an upgrade as much as it is insurance against brazing failure that is documented to have happened to the ej257 engines. The 207 v8+ uses the same part number.
KillerB thinks that an accident can be a factor further pushing that brazing towards cracking.
The oil pan has nothing to do with this and you can keep it....

Also, AZ, diversify a little:
Join this conversation about rear differentials
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2295969
Read about 6 speed swaps
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...201152&page=20

Read the oil pickup failure thread

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1553337

BTW, I went through this a few pages back. I think that the vendors want you to make hybrid axles for the rear, but read about hybrid axles in the differential thread.
There are people in the transmission forum that do swaps very often and have answers.
I think we are getting off-topic from 207s, but no need for hybrid axles any more. the Legacy Spec-Bs match the R180 to the WRX hubs.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:02 PM   #2389
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and that settles it with that statement. back to 207 stuff. no more jdm trans talk! so in general i have read alot about the timing maps on usdm and jdm tunes to be way different for the ej20's. i did alot of the tuning on my ej205 but with avcs now im not sure how to handle it. any good advice to start with? im going to start out stock obv. take some timing adv out of the jdm map and put some 93 through it until summer atleast.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:33 AM   #2390
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Sorry Az, your post said that you had the complete V8 drivetrain (including rear diff)... Im confused as to what you're asking...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
But do you have the JDM body harness with the ECU on the left side? You connect to the ECU on the right side then.
I say this because the wiring diagram really does show different pins for the connector for the OBDII.
I don't know if it works or not, but the fact that My JDM ECU connects fine via the USDM body harness OBDII and responds well to tactrix, is not indicative that the pins are right for it in the JDM OBDII configuration.
I've got the JDM harness merged with my 2.5RS harness. Using the JDM ECU I had to mount it upside down so it would connect properly, because yes, it connects on the wrong side.

However, I didn't do my own merge... I had Brian at iWire do it. He could have changed something so that it works with a tactrix.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:40 AM   #2391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaider View Post
Sorry Az, your post said that you had the complete V8 drivetrain (including rear diff)... Im confused as to what you're asking...



I've got the JDM harness merged with my 2.5RS harness. Using the JDM ECU I had to mount it upside down so it would connect properly, because yes, it connects on the wrong side.

However, I didn't do my own merge... I had Brian at iWire do it. He could have changed something so that it works with a tactrix.
I think I may end up having to re-pin the OBD plug.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:45 AM   #2392
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I think, when you look at Romraider and the tables they made available for tuning, you see differences in the way the JDM and the USDm were tuned.
If you ask yourself why, remember that nobody knows the "official answer".

Last edited by Vlad; 01-25-2012 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:50 AM   #2393
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Vlad, thanks for the spoonfeeding, lol.
I will read those threads. Though I have decided to go usdm trans, should I get to that point, as I feel the ratios are better suited to my needs. JDM tranny ratio a little high for my daily commute.

I will be doing the killer b, don't want to risk it, especially since most likely the car was in an accident.

No point in coming this far only to have such a small item cause catastrophic failure.
Also doing timing belt, accessory belts, rear main (and the two items to either side) and new rubber s needed.

Anything else to check out while I'm I'm there?
I think I have most of it covered.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:24 AM   #2394
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While you're doing the Timing Belt, do the tensioner and pulleys. Its easy to do with the engine out of the car.

Id do engine mounts but thats just cause they're easy to do if you're replacing an engine and I wish Id done mine while I was there.

Before startup, make sure you've got plenty of clearance between your upper rad hose, the rad fans and the alternator pulley. Mine didn't have enough clearance, chewed through the hose and boom... coolant all over the engine 50km after I finished the swap.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:47 AM   #2395
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Zaider, thanks for advice.
Why was there not enough clearance? Do you have aftermarket radiator?

And yes, I'm changing all idlers pulleys, as well as the tensioner.

The engine that I'm sending back used single bearings on a couple of the idlers, and the tensioner needed to be replaced.

So, just so I'm straight on the oil pan, I need to get oil pan gasket for 2004 STI, right?
I might just buy the whole head set. Then just buy valve cover gaskets from IAPerformance. That way I'll have everyhing I might need. I'm sure I'll need them all eventually.
My 205 is at 240k, who knows how long my ej207 will go!
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:53 AM   #2396
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Is there a need to prime the engine before starting it?
Maybe crank it over by hand a few times? Who knows how long its been sitting.

And with my 2002 WRX with V8 swap, will I need to reverse polarity of NSS switch? Some say yes, others no. I guess they switched somewhere in v8 to v9 from what I can tell. I will be using my usdm five speed, for now.
I bought the 2006 NSS switch, just in case.

I will be not be running Carberry ROM, which I believe has the code to switch via ECU.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:42 PM   #2397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Zaider, thanks for advice.
Why was there not enough clearance? Do you have aftermarket radiator?
Yes. The radiator that came in my front clip was cracked and had a screw threaded into one of the holes... so I went with a mishimoto.

Its just a little something to check.



You seem to have a lot of questions, and I'll be honest, before you jump into something like this, you need to do a bit more reading. There's plenty of threads in the Swap forums explaining priming the motor and ensuring oil circulation to the turbo.

I did a hell of a lot of research before doing my swap and it wasn't anywhere near enough. Instead of continuing along with your swap questions here in the 207 thread, I'd suggest starting a thread in the Swap forums. You'll get a lot of help there.

My advice: If you're still asking these types of questions, you need to take a month and read everything you can about doing an engine swap. Your engine isn't blown, you shouldn't rush into this. You'll just end up spending way more money and time than you need to.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:52 PM   #2398
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Thanks for the advice.
Yeah, I am asking a lot of questions. Most are me being super anal about this and just asking for verification of what I've already read.

I've been researching for at least a month, and while yes, there is more I'm sure I can read and learn, at this point I'm ready to go.
I have a few friends that have recently done the swap and they will be there to help as well, so I'm as ready as I'm going to be! lol .

Just trying to tie up any loose ends and make sure I've got all my bases covered.
But I will continue to read and research.
Thanks again - no offense taken.
This isn't my first swap, but it is my first Subaru swap
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:59 PM   #2399
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Yeah, for priming the motor, pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank it over (making sure not to burn out the starter) until your oil pressure light doesn't come on.

Then run around in a panic as you try to figure out where all your leaks are coming from... that's what I did

Actually, first time I cranked it over... the engine RPM started climbing and climbing to the point that I turned it off just before redline. Turns out that my RS throttle cable was a bit shorter than the STI one... giving me half-throttle at all times.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #2400
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If I wanted to swap out the v8 pistons for aftermarket forged pistons, where and what should I get? Looking to run a 30r size turbo on this block.

Edit: appears that they are the same ej205/ej 207

Last edited by Quadsbc; 01-25-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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