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Old 02-08-2012, 04:27 PM   #1
Overland04
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Default DW 850cc Injector step-by-step install w/ NKG Iridium plugs too!

Hey Forum,

Today is time for another step-by-step install of the DeatschWerks 850cc injectors and NKG Iridium 1-Step colder spark plugs. I'm installing these on my 2011 WRX. For more information on my installs and build thread, stop by over here and say hi!

I have seen a lot of injector installs and yes, there are terrible shortcuts to take in doing the injectors but PLEASE take your time and don't be afraid to take off more then you need in order to get the job done right. You can bend and break things to get to the injectors easier but in the long run you will only regret not taking the extra time to do it right.


To start off, I left the car overnight to release as much pressure from the system as possible. Thought it is not necessary, I found it much better to have less pressure in the system when removing the injectors.

Tools required:

10mm socket(s) 1/4" & 3/8" drive
12mm socket(s) 1/4" & 3/8" drive
5/8" spark plug socket
Needle nose pliers or
HemostatsHemostats

2", 4", 6" extensions for 1/4" & 3/8" drive
1/4" & 3/8" swivels
10mm & 12mm open end wrench
Automotive pick-set
Fire extinguisher - safety first
Small flat screwdriver

Optional tools:

Magnetic pick-up toolMagnetic pick-up tool
- (when you drop bolts)
Inspection mirror - (to see hidden bolts)


Start with the engine bay...



The next step is basic removal of parts:

Intercooler - Three 12mm bolts, Hose clamp for BPV
Battery - Two 10mm bolts
Alternator cover - One 10mm bolt
Air scoop - Two plastic snaps
Air Pump - Two 12mm & One 10mm, Small hose clamp.
Rear wire channel behind intake manifold - Three 10mm bolts
Tube off of throttle body - Hose clamp



Time to get busy...

This is the bracket that you are going to remove from the drives side first. I have labeled the bracket to show you where to look for the bolts when it's in the car.




Start with the easy one in the front of the bracket that is located where the air pump was - 12mm



Next is the middle one, it's on a slight angle so you may need to break out the 12mm & swivel for this one.



Next I removed the 12mm bolt holding a couple of the electrical grounding rings.



Next is one of the hardest part of the entire job.
The rear and last 12mm bolt holding on the bracket is underneath the TGV motor. I used the mirror to see what was going on but you can trust me to say that the bolt is hidden and to get it out, you need to remove the TGV motor.
To do so, there are two 10mm bolts holding the motor on. One on top (easy) one on the bottom (hard). First unplug the harness from the motor. Then using a mirror, fingers or voodoo magic, feel around until you find the bottom bolt and remove it. Then you carefully slide out the motor assembly from the TGV gears.
Once you remove the motor the 12mm back bolt will be accessible. You may need to use a 12mm wrench or 12mm socket and swivel to remove it. Once it is out, then the bracket can be removed by sliding it around all the hoses and wires above it.



Next you will be able to get to the plugs that go to each of the injectors. I used the hemostats to assist but you can squeeze the plug with fingers or needle nose pliers too to remove them.
Next is removing the two 12mm bolts that hold on the fuel rail. Remove the bolts then SLOWLY pull the bracket up to release the injectors (and fuel).



You may also need to loosen or remove some of the 10mm bolts holding the hard line fuel piping on top of the manifold. PLEASE DO THIS INSTEAD IF BENDING ANY FUEL LINES!!
Once you get the rail high enough to remove the injectors, you may carefully remove them, they are loosely sandwiched in between the fuel rail and the intake manifold.



Once you have removed both injectors, take a look to see if you have grabbed all of the o-rings that were on the injectors. The new DW injectors come with all new o-rings so all of the old ones have to be removed.
Use an automotive pick to remove them if needed.

Here are the two stock injectors (left) and two new 850cc (right)
They should look the same, maybe not color but size and diameter.

Be sure to separate them once removed - that would suck if you install your stock ones by accident...

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Last edited by Overland04; 02-08-2012 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:28 PM   #2
Overland04
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Using the supplied grease, lube up the bottom and top o-rings. Be sure NOT to get any inside the openings or the screen on the bottom. You won't need a lot, just a light coating around the rubber.




Next install both injectors into the manifold first making sure the injector is seated all the way into its hole. Once both injectors are seated all the way down, line up the fuel rail above the injectors and slowly, making sure both top o-rings meet up with the rail, push down to sandwich the injectors. You will feel the injectors squeeze into position as you press the rail back to its original location. When the rail is seated and centered you may place the two 12mm bolts back and tighten.

The injectors will still be able to swivel around at this point. If they are really tight and cannot move, there may be something wrong. I would remove the rail and check your o-rings to see if they are damaged or you forgot to remove one of the factory ones.

If they move freely, make sure they end up in the orientation that the factory ones were. Right side should face the firewall and the left side should face the front of the car.



Once you orient them the right way, you can plug the harness back in. You will see that the harness will only plug in completely if the injector is facing the right way.



Now that you have both injectors plugged back in and the fuel rail in place. It is time to re-install the bracket, put the TGV motor back on, and electrical grounds. Also, if you loosened any 10mm bolts to free up the rail, put those back too!

Done with one side!!!


*This section is for changing the spark plugs. If you are not changing plugs, you can move down to the next post #3*


First I would remove the 10mm bolt shown below. The bolt holds a flat plastic channel that comes out of the air pump. Once the bolt is removed you can move it slightly out of the way to make more room near the valve cover. *Also, removing the oil filler tube with three 10mm bolts is a HUGE help!*



Now that you have access to the first coil pack, remove the one 12mm bolt then pull it straight out. You will need to remove the electrical plug from the coil pack, doing so may require a flat screw driver to pry the middle tab of the connector while you pull it off.

Here is the coil pack removed:



Next, using a standard 5/8 spark plug socket remove the spark plug. A combination of extensions will be helpful as the distance between the valve cover and frame of the car is very tight.



Stock plug VS. NKG Iridium plug



Same situation with the rear... Once you get the 12mm bolt off the coil pack, there will be a combination of turning required to get to the electrical plug and to get the pack out.

Once you get the pack out, you can remove the spark plug. I had to first put the 5/8" socket in, then the extension, then the ratchet. There was no way to put it in all at once, it's too tight!



Here is the 5/8" socket and new plug:



Once both plugs are CAREFULLY put back in, you can tighten them up and re-install the coil packs. *Make sure you fully press in the connector to the coil pack. It might still work if you don't but eventually it will shake loose!*

Finished side...

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Old 02-08-2012, 04:28 PM   #3
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Now it is time to move onto the passenger side.

Start off by removing the 12mm bolt that holds the coolant reservoir to the left of the intake manifold. If you pull straight up it will come loose from the rubber grommets that hold it down as well.
Instead of removing any coolant lines I was able to use a bungee cord to hold it back. I connected one side to the reservoir and the other to the drivers shock tower. It moved it enough out of the way to do the job.

I would also remove your intake at this point too, I have an aftermarket one so I don't have the uninstall pictures but at this point I'm sure you can figure it out how to remove yours



Here is the picture of the passenger side bracket; I'm showing this again now because it is helpful to see where the bolts are located before you start. It's a little different from the drives side so it may be tricky.



The first bolt I removed is the rear one. It is a 12mm and it's in a similar location as the drivers side one but there is no motor TGV motor in the way!



The next two 12mm bolts are in the middle of the bracket. One is easy to get to and the other is kind of tough. You can easily remove one of the breather hoses from the valve cover to make more room. It's the one towards the front of the car, just pull up...

Once you have enough room use a 12mm wrench or swivel socket to get to the bolt. I was also able to somehow get my hand in there to remove the bolt after it was loosened. It's tough but doable.

After they are both out, you can remove the bracket, yay!!



Next step will be the same as the driver's side, remove the two 12mm bolts from the rail and before you pull up you NEED to loosen a 12mm bolt that holds on the fuel lines to the manifold.



*You will only be able to loosen this but it is mandatory. If you don't and you try to bend your fuel rail away you WILL break your fuel line and I don't want to here it!*

Removing the bolt is impossible because it is being blocked by the TGV motor and you can't remove the TGV motor with out removing a solenoid on the valve cover. I don't know what the solenoid is for but it looks like a small clutch cylinder and I'm not touching it.

So, once you loosen the bolt as much as you can, then you can carefully pull up on the fuel rail just enough to get the two injectors out. Please, please, please be careful in pulling the fuel rail off, if you yank it up, you will break a line.




Next you can install the injectors just like the drivers side:
  • Remove all the factory o-rings from the car
  • Grease the new injector o-rings
  • Fully seat the new injectors in
  • Line up the fuel rail, sandwich the injectors and press the rail until it is fully seated into its factory location. Replace the two 12mm bolts.
  • Check the injectors to make sure they rotate freely.
  • Rotate them back into the correct position.
  • Plug back in the wires, check to make sure they are fully seated.
  • Tighten the one 12mm bolt that you could only loosen.
  • Replace the metal bracket and the three 12mm bolts that hold it.
  • Replace the breather hose onto the valve cover
  • Take off Bungee Cord and replace the coolant reservoir's 12mm bolt.

*Next, I installed the passenger side two spark plugs, skip if not installing*

Same as driver's side.
Start by removing the coil pack's 12mm bolt and wire harness.
There is also a 10mm bolt that can be removed to make getting to the harness easier, it's shown below.




Next, remove both plugs and re-install the new ones. The area on the passenger side is not as tight but there is still some extension manipulation to get the right combination.



Once the new plugs are in, re-install the coil packs and again, make sure you double check the wire plug is fully seated when you plug them back in!

Re-install your intake and get ready to check your install.

Before I installed the rest of the components back into the car, I wanted to check the injectors to make sure I don't have any leaks.
To do that I obviously had to put the battery back in so do that first, then I turned the ignition on and cycled the fuel pump 3 or 4 times then I left the ignition on while I inspected all of the injectors. They are hidden very well so it takes a good flashlight and mirrors. Check for any leaks and fix if they do!!
If they pass the leak inspection then I would re-install the Air pump, Intercooler, alternator cover and intake.

Lastly you will need to load your limp map into your Access Port. Once you get to your tuner, they will take the rest from there. If you are tuning yourself somehow, I applaud you!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in this thread. I like to answer all questions so that other members can read the answer, not hidden in a PM. They might have the same questions so it's easier when the answer is still in the thread.

Thanks for reading and good luck!!

- Jason
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:59 PM   #4
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Jason,

This is an excellent write up! I'm sure many people will appreciate this. Removing those brackets is one of the biggest PITA's I've had to do working on my car, but these photos and descriptions will make it a lot easier for people. I'm also very impressed at how you were able to get light into some of the tucked away places in the engine bay.

One note on this section:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post
Next is one of the hardest part of the entire job.
The rear and last 12mm bolt holding on the bracket is underneath the TGV motor. I used the mirror to see what was going on but you can trust me to say that the bolt is hidden and to get it out, you need to remove the TGV motor.

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/_MG_9492.jpg
I, in fact, did not remove the TGV motor. This single bolt caused 90% of the hardship during this install, but it eventually came out with the TGV motor still in place. It was basically a 2 hour long fit to break it loose, and then after that I unscrewed it by hand, using my fingertips, 1/4 turn at a time. If I had to do it again, I would probably go the route you went, and remove the TGV motor (although that really didn't look much easier).
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:42 PM   #5
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Screw this. I refuse to do my own injectors. I'll gladly pay $225 for install...
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:04 PM   #6
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Awesome, Awesome, Awesome job man. Great attention to detail. Not looking forward to doing this one.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:07 PM   #7
Overland04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie_Noob_Brian View Post
Screw this. I refuse to do my own injectors. I'll gladly pay $225 for install...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JordenP View Post
Awesome, Awesome, Awesome job man. Great attention to detail. Not looking forward to doing this one.

Hahaha, you guys are great! It wasn't so bad...
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:15 PM   #8
Overland04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Jason,

This is an excellent write up! I'm sure many people will appreciate this. Removing those brackets is one of the biggest PITA's I've had to do working on my car, but these photos and descriptions will make it a lot easier for people. I'm also very impressed at how you were able to get light into some of the tucked away places in the engine bay.

One note on this section:

I, in fact, did not remove the TGV motor. This single bolt caused 90% of the hardship during this install, but it eventually came out with the TGV motor still in place. It was basically a 2 hour long fit to break it loose, and then after that I unscrewed it by hand, using my fingertips, 1/4 turn at a time. If I had to do it again, I would probably go the route you went, and remove the TGV motor (although that really didn't look much easier).
I was going to try to get to that bolt without taking the motor off, I wasn't sure what would happen if I took the motor out but I decided to go for it anyway. Glad I did, I give you props for getting it out the other way!!

But those brackets... What the hell??? I'm still actually trying to figure out what they do beside get it the way of everything.

Also, I have this really nice shop light I got at Home Depot, I use it often to light photos under the hood as much as possible. With fuel involved the last thing I'm breaking out is a tripod and slow shutter speeds

Thanks man!!
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie_Noob_Brian View Post
Screw this. I refuse to do my own injectors. I'll gladly pay $225 for install...
Same here...I"ve heard this was a PITA but my goodness.



Props Jason..once again another phenomenal DIY. Can't get over your pictures lol I would probably get so frustrated with those bolts that I'd say screw taking pics and just get that crap done with ASAP.
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliff_11WRX View Post
Can't get over your pictures lol I would probably get so frustrated with those bolts that I'd say screw taking pics and just get that crap done with ASAP.

Haha, that funny because I also installed the intercooler, BPV, EBC, and MBC in the same day and by the time I finished the injectors I was in no mood to start snapping pics of anything else...

What sucks is that you only do them once. If I had to do it again, it would be a hell of a lot easier. I found the experimentation is that hardest part!
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post
But those brackets... What the hell??? I'm still actually trying to figure out what they do beside get it the way of everything.
I believe they're meant to reduce the risk of damage to the fuel system in the case of an accident. I guess that's a good thing, but I still didn't re-install mine!
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:48 PM   #12
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wow! phenomenal write up, thanks!
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:52 PM   #13
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wow! phenomenal write up, thanks!
Hey man, thanks for checking it out!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:27 PM   #14
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Overland, another great write-up... Thank you for taking the time to do this for the community! This will be a great resource for those looking to tackle this job themselves in the future.

An alternate step that I could offer is installing the fuel injectors into the rail first, then pressing the injectors into the TGV. This allows you to use a twisting motion as the injectors are inserted into the rail. It doesn't happen often (especially when the lube is used!), but pressing the injector straight into the rail can cause the upper o-ring to be torn or deformed.

Great pics, great write-up! Thank you.

-Chris
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:08 AM   #15
bugeye sti
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How long does it take to do the injectors? Thanks for taking the time to write this up
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:38 AM   #16
Overland04
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How long does it take to do the injectors? Thanks for taking the time to write this up
In total, maybe 4 hours... I was doing a bunch of different mods and documenting everything so it's tough to get an accurate answer. I guess it all depends on how quickly you can get the large metal brackets off, those are the killers!
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:12 AM   #17
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Great write up!!
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post

for the large rubber o rings that are located near the injector tip on the bottom, is that where they go or do you push them up flush to the bottom of the blue plastic part?
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:37 PM   #19
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Hey topgun,

The way he has them pictured is how they are supposed to fit.

-Chris
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeatschWerks View Post
Hey topgun,

The way he has them pictured is how they are supposed to fit.

-Chris
is there any trick to ensuring that they seat properly?

i just had my stockers cleaned and flow tested by RC engineering over here in los angeles.

i reinstalled everything properly (or so i thought) and when i turned the car over all four injectors started leaking.

any suggestions as to what i may have missed?

engine is 07 sti.

p.s. i just bought a dw300. LOVE IT!

Last edited by topguneagle1; 03-03-2012 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:25 AM   #21
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Hey TopGun,

Can you tell if they are leaking from the top or bottom?
The bottom seal is kind of hard to seal improperly because of the size of the o-ring and because once the bolts on the fuel rail are tight, that is all that holds them in. The top o-rings are the ones that could tear if the fuel rail was not straight when it was pressed down and bolted back in.

How long were the injectors out for? It is possible that the o-rings dried out. This may only be an assumption but if you took the injectors out for a cleaning, the engine might have a good amount of miles on it which in turn would be the reason that the o-rings were not happy being taken out of their home.
If everything on the fuel rail is tight, and they were able to rotate freely like I mentioned in the install above. I would to the simple change of all new fresh o-rings.

Good luck,

- Jason
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:25 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post
Hey TopGun,

Can you tell if they are leaking from the top or bottom?
The bottom seal is kind of hard to seal improperly because of the size of the o-ring and because once the bolts on the fuel rail are tight, that is all that holds them in. The top o-rings are the ones that could tear if the fuel rail was not straight when it was pressed down and bolted back in.

How long were the injectors out for? It is possible that the o-rings dried out. This may only be an assumption but if you took the injectors out for a cleaning, the engine might have a good amount of miles on it which in turn would be the reason that the o-rings were not happy being taken out of their home.
If everything on the fuel rail is tight, and they were able to rotate freely like I mentioned in the install above. I would to the simple change of all new fresh o-rings.

Good luck,

- Jason
i can't quite tell where they are leaking from.
it could be that i didnt have the injector turned properly so that the connectors were getting caught on the little tabs on the fuel rails.

the o ring seals are brand spankin new from rc engineering. no way they are dried out or torn.

i'm trying again right now. this time i took everything out so i could see better
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:59 PM   #23
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ok i got everything reinstalled, check the injectors and they seem to be sealed properly now, plug in the battery, and she wont turn over. she cranks. sounds like the battery has plenty of life. but wont turn over.

ideas?
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:01 PM   #24
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Oh boy... When you turn the ignition on do you here the fuel pump click on for about 3 seconds? If so does it sound normal?
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:22 PM   #25
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another great write up jason, what happened to the process west TMIC? are you planing an e85 tune?
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NJ:FS -Takata harness , STi TMIC , DW 850cc injectors ,Mines lip ,Defi gauges + MORE! DanTheMan23 Tri-State Area Private Classifieds 191 06-02-2009 03:23 PM
WTB:(MO) Spearco TMIC for 06 sti, DW 850cc injectors stidriver31 Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 1 04-18-2009 09:49 PM
VF43 turbo, STI TMIC, DW 850cc injectors Drac9 Engine/Power/Exhaust 26 04-12-2009 02:54 PM
TX: BRAND NEW ATP GT3076R, Perrin 3" inlet DW 850cc injectors ownnij Engine/Power/Exhaust 6 12-29-2008 02:55 AM


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