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Old 01-10-2012, 08:55 PM   #101
5pyral
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It looks like you did what I did on that and turned it another half turn past tight. My washer bent up, but seems ok. I won't use clear fluid any more so I can tell easier. At least that is an easy one to get to if it is an issue. Would have find something else as that one is probably not available. Not sure why it is shaped like it is, but would think a normal copper one would work. The -37 looks like it is holding ok, and the ATF/PS should make it swell a bit. Drove it after bleeding it tonight and all seems good.
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:37 PM   #102
68Cadillac
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When I started this thread I only got into rebuilding my pump because it was leaking externally. And only replaced those o-rings that were leaking. 11 months later I'm happy to report I haven't had an external leak.

Now internally? In the past 4 weeks I've noticed a shuddering loss of power in the PS Steering system. It doesn't just stop. It pulses. Like when you get air in the system. But there's no air in the system. I looked for the telltale sign of foamy PS/ATF in the tank. Nothing. And the "air in the line" whine is not there. I diagnose it as the internal o-rings finally going bad, and high pressure fluid is slipping past the seals to the low pressure side.

So 11 months later I get to do this again.


Purchased all my parts from McMaster-Carr again. Even ordered the FEP-encapsulated ones again. They're the cheapest ones rated "Excellent" for use in hydraulic fluid and are good up to 400 degrees F. Buna-N are only rated "Good" and are good only to 212 degrees F.


Purchased a high precision bearing from there also.


Here's what the FEP rings look like after 11 months of use. Really. This is a picture of the used rings that have been in there for 11 months.


New bearing pressed on.


New ring. This is the -021 Extra info! Several reports of the -021 O-Ring being too thin on some pumps. The next thickest size with the same inner diameter is -119. Some fellas and I haven't had a problem with the -021. Nevertheless, some other's pumps won't build pressure unless the -119 is used for replacement. So to be safe just get the -119


Here's the new and old -136


The old -136 started life round and soft. Now it's flat and brittle.


Reassembled and working. Just need to get all the air out.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 03-12-2014 at 01:09 PM. Reason: engrish be hard, yo
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:56 PM   #103
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Caddy, third picture down - do you think your rotor assembly is rubbing the cover plate and maybe causing drag or even stopping the vanes from moving? Mine didn't have that many scratches on it when I took it out. It was almost completely smooth like fresh out of the lathe. I say almost because there was one scuff on the ring.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:06 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-REX View Post
Caddy, third picture down - do you think your rotor assembly is rubbing the cover plate and maybe causing drag or even stopping the vanes from moving? Mine didn't have that many scratches on it when I took it out. It was almost completely smooth like fresh out of the lathe. I say almost because there was one scuff on the ring.
Good eye there.

I only handle the rotor and internal parts with my clean hands or a terry cloth towel. After I pull the pump off I wash it the exterior and my hands before cracking the thing open. But scratches I see on the cylinder wall are from the variable displacement of the pump itself. It rocks left to right on the little pivot pin. Don't know why they're on the rotor.

If the rotor and the vanes were scraping the cover plate on the back of the pump you'd expect to see the round scratches centered around the shaft. You can actually see a little bit of those if you look at the tips of the vanes.

Mystery.

My pump is back together again, pumping fluid. As soon as I get all the air out I'll give it a test on the section of highway that was causing my shuttering.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:40 PM   #105
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68Cadillac - Thanks for making this thread and for keeping it updated over time. Can you post the McMaster PN for the bearing that you used? Also, did you find what had failed internally to cause you to open it up again? Was a replaced part responsible or was there something that you hadn't done the first time?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:49 PM   #106
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The bearing I used: P/N 6661K104 from McMaster-Carr. $10.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeratE View Post
Was a replaced part responsible or was there something that you hadn't done the first time?
It was something I didn't replace the first time. When I started this thread I had no experience with the internals of a PS Pump. SOA disappointed me by selling a new $480+ pump as a "rebuild kit". I don't know for certain which internal o-ring was slowly failing. But most probably the -136 or -021. Those two are the ones that separate the high pressure side from the low pressure side. I'm leaning toward the -136 because it was brittle, flat, and hard when I replaced it. When it should be mailable, round, and soft.

Though I didn't replace the Shaft Oil Seal because I thought that an SAE size would do. I eventually found that you really need the EXACT inner diameter and outer diameter for that bastard. The width only needs to be less than or equal to 9.3 mm. I found one at RocketSeals.com P/N 20X32X8-MOS/D which looks like it would excel as a replacement. I haven't tested it.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 01-24-2012 at 10:53 PM. Reason: engrish be hard, vtec yo!
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:57 PM   #107
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Anyone get any conclusive info on the seal size and if this one worked ^^^? Im in the middle of this and need to find a solution. Ive been searching like crazy! Will add part numbers if I find it here soon..
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:55 PM   #108
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Carquest seal PN# SLS 222020 OR INTERCHANGE # AE0997E0 WORKS GREAT!
Autozone bearing PN# 14673 OR INTERCHANGE # 6203RSZJ
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:55 PM   #109
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And to speed things up if people go with the McMaster rings 68Cadillac used, the PNs are:

-13 9319K47 @ $3.67ea
-14 9319K14 @ $3.68ea 3 needed
-15 9319K15 @ $3.69ea
-17 9319K141 @ $3.71ea
-21 9319K144 @ $3.82ea
-37 9319K162 @ $5.19ea
-136 9319K188 @ $4.98ea
Bearing 6661K104 @ $10.08 ea (And is supposedly ABEC-3 and double sealed with Nitrile)

Last edited by BeratE; 01-26-2012 at 03:13 PM. Reason: 68Cadillac reminded me 3 of the -14 were needed
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:27 PM   #110
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You rock BeratE. Thanks for doing that for folks.

So if you went with the cheap Buna-N O rings and inexpensive bearing the rebuild would run < $15.
If you went with the Double-Wack FEP Encapsulated O-rings and the good bearing. The rebuild would be $46.18.
If you bought a rebuilt one from Rockauto.com = $134. I included the core charge of $34. Plus they're using the cheap Buna-N O rings and a cheap bearing.
Subaru of America $480.44 (can be had on internet for $427.11)
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:34 PM   #111
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will this parts list work for 05 STi as well? Thanks for all your research.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:49 PM   #112
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to think i just threw mine away the other day. i coulda got 480 bucks for it!!!
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:07 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
Master O-ring & Part Replacement List
To completely rebuild this guy you'll need the following:

1 - AS568A Dash Number 136 O-ring (not Square Cross Section just normal round)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 037 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 017 O-Ring (behind the 'hex bolt')
1 - AS568A Dash Number 015 O-Ring
3 - AS568A Dash Number 014 O-Rings (that's three total for full replacement)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 013 O-Ring
1 - Bearing 12mm depth x 17mm id x 40mm od (range in prices from $6 to $106 from McMaster)
1 - Oil Bearing Shaft Seal 20 I.D. x 32 O.D. and <=9.3 mm in width.

Regarding the Seal: I found one at RocketSeals.com P/N 20X32X8-MOS/D which looks like it would excel as a replacement. I haven't tested it. The I.D and O.D. need to be exact. The width just needs to be <=9.3mm. Also a report of Carquest seal PN# SLS 222020 OR INTERCHANGE # AE0997E0 WORKS GREAT for the shaft seal.

BeratE put together a list of the Part Numbers for the FEP encapsluated O-rings and a great bearing from McMaster in this post.
is this list of rings applicable to 06 2.5wrx?
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:43 AM   #114
maxifire
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Default Dash 021 O ring compatibility

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
Master O-ring & Part Replacement List
To completely rebuild this guy you'll need the following:

1 - AS568A Dash Number 136 O-ring (not Square Cross Section just normal round)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 037 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring
1 - AS568A Dash Number 017 O-Ring (behind the 'hex bolt')
1 - AS568A Dash Number 015 O-Ring
3 - AS568A Dash Number 014 O-Rings (that's three total for full replacement)
1 - AS568A Dash Number 013 O-Ring
1 - Bearing 12mm depth x 17mm id x 40mm od (range in prices from $6 to $106 from McMaster)
1 - Oil Bearing Shaft Seal 20 I.D. x 32 O.D. and <=9.3 mm in width.

Regarding the Seal: I found one at RocketSeals.com P/N 20X32X8-MOS/D which looks like it would excel as a replacement. I haven't tested it. The I.D and O.D. need to be exact. The width just needs to be <=9.3mm. Also a report of Carquest seal PN# SLS 222020 OR INTERCHANGE # AE0997E0 WORKS GREAT for the shaft seal.

BeratE put together a list of the Part Numbers for the FEP encapsluated O-rings and a great bearing from McMaster in this post.
Thanks for the very informative write up. I am currently trying to rebuild my pump and bought all the O rings according to the list you have made and it saved me a lot of troubles.

I would like to bring to your attention to this particular O ring that I have troubles with - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring

I compared the new O ring against the old O ring taken out from the pump and noticed that the new O ring is visually thinner than the old. I understand that most of the guys here have already rebuilt their pump using the list you mentioned and have no issues. Just thought maybe I should share my discovery with you guys.


Left 'O' ring - Old taken out from pump
Right 'O' ring - New

Cheers.

Last edited by maxifire; 02-14-2012 at 01:25 AM. Reason: include photos
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:54 AM   #115
Kevin VanCleave
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Thanks so much for such a detailed write up. I just bought my 04 Sti and the pump is leaking, this thread saved me a lot of time and research. You may want to check out The Parker O-ring guide (or handbook), they give the engineering specifications of O-ring glands in detail. They also have a clunky program called inPhorm that is handy when you have to reverse engineer parts like these.

Thanks again,
Kevin
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #116
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How hard is it to get the bearing off and on?

Getting ready to have fun with this rebuild.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:05 PM   #117
68Cadillac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post
How hard is it to get the bearing off and on?

Getting ready to have fun with this rebuild.
I have the fortune of owning a shop press. It's the MOST dangerous tool I own, by the way. I shattered a brake rotor with it once. I give it serious respect.

Anyway, I used it to press the bearing out, off, on, then back in. Had I not owned a press I could have used a deadblow and some deep sockets to move the bearing. The shaft and bearing come out the front of the pump past the big C-Clip that you removed in a previous step.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:22 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxifire View Post
I would like to bring to your attention to this particular O ring that I have troubles with - AS568A Dash Number 021 O-Ring
You're welcome.

021 is one of the two rings that separate the high pressure side from the low pressure side in the pump. It worked in mine. We're all in uncharted waters here so you'll just have to test it.

I measured where the 021 ring goes with a micrometer

But if you wanted to go for a thicker o-ring to test instead of the -021 AS568A Dash Number 119 would be what you'd want to order.

Let us all know how it goes either way.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:08 AM   #119
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Thanks for that. Good to know I should be able to get it off/on without a press.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:40 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
You're welcome.

021 is one of the two rings that separate the high pressure side from the low pressure side in the pump. It worked in mine. We're all in uncharted waters here so you'll just have to test it.

I measured where the 021 ring goes with a micrometer

But if you wanted to go for a thicker o-ring to test instead of the -021 AS568A Dash Number 119 would be what you'd want to order.

Let us all know how it goes either way.
Thanks for your response. In the end, I went with Dash 021 even though I bought the closest matching ring from the shop. As close as it gets, the closest matching ring I bought wouldn't fit nicely so I thought I would just go with Dash 021 ring.

I have not installed the power steering pump yet (I bought it used as spare) and I will update if I have any further findings.

Thank you once again.
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:15 PM   #121
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Question for all the guys who did this rebuild -

Is anyone's power steering extremely stiff at low RPMs?

My pump is great any other time. No leaks whatsoever after the rebuild. But for some reason at low RPMs it's almost like there's no power steering at all. You got to really muscle it to get in a parking spot. Can't say it happens EVERY time but enough to where I notice it a lot.

I can't imagine what the problem is. It makes no engineering sense to me, except if the pump was underdriven. But it never happened before the rebuild on the OEM build, even when it was leaking.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:55 PM   #122
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I have a power steering leak on my 2005 2.0l and it seems to be in the same areas. I'm a shade tree mechanic and am wondering if this is something I should attempt. On a scale of wrenches, 5 = master mechanic and 1 = shade tree, how would you rate this rebuild? I was thinking of going the remanufactured route, but considering the large cost savings, I think I might "give it a try".

Being this is a daily driver, should I be concerned about the reman'd parts? I have about 93,000 on the clock and the car will more than likely never see any track.

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:03 PM   #123
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I've known I had a slow leak from my pump for a while, but a few days ago my steering wheel started getting stiff whenever I cornered hard. I decided to check my level and it was definitely low and my leak appears to have gotten much worse. I stumbled upon this thread and am now considering rebuilding it myself to save money but it seems that not all the O-rings you guys are using are the perfect size? If it's just going to leak/have problems again a few months down the line I'd rather just get the rebuilt pump but $9 worth of o rings compared to a $135 pump is pretty tempting. Anyone else have feedback on how their rebuild is holding up?
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:31 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeratE View Post
And to speed things up if people go with the McMaster rings 68Cadillac used, the PNs are:

-13 9319K47 @ $3.67ea
-14 9319K14 @ $3.68ea 3 needed
-15 9319K15 @ $3.69ea
-17 9319K141 @ $3.71ea
-21 9319K144 @ $3.82ea
-37 9319K162 @ $5.19ea
-136 9319K188 @ $4.98ea
Bearing 6661K104 @ $10.08 ea (And is supposedly ABEC-3 and double sealed with Nitrile)
so this will work with 02 wrx as well? or should i go with the p/n34490fe000 from subie dealer? does this list include the shaft seal?

Last edited by 02wrx-mejia; 03-04-2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:36 AM   #125
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