Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday October 1, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-10-2012, 02:34 AM   #26
n2xlr8n
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 18960
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Bama
Vehicle:
02 WRX MBP
It lives! ; )

Default

- Before/during assembly, you can't be too clean. Don't think a shiny new shortblock from Subaru was assembled with that in mind:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2662...56352912ZDXKJw

- Find the best machinist in the area/region, and keep him supplied with his favorite beverage, green fees, food, etc.

- Never spin rings on the piston.

- Clean your freshly machined cylinder walls with brake cleaner initially, then again and again (and again) with tranny fluid. Install rings dry as a bone. Learn to use a product called "quick seat" by Total Seal. It's worth the time you'll put into prep.

- Learn how the relationship between rings, cylinder finish and pistons work.. really....you'll never say your freshly machined cylinder walls are "clean enough" again.

- Find out where you're at with camshaft buckets before the final assembly of your heads...tell your machinist what the lash should be, and you'll likely never have to buy another bucket.

- Don't forget the PCV / scavenging system. I cringe when I read about people bypassing it and using only catch cans. I have a B15 that used 1.5 qts of oil every 100 miles, until I replaced the entire PCV system (the hoses looked great, but were occluded). Now its' usage is negligible.

- If the acetone / tranny fluid trick won't help you with the stubborn fastener, apply heat and wax (like you're soldering). The wicking effect (or capillary action) will draw the wax into the threads and the fastener will break loose.

I'll think of more as they rattle around.

S.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
n2xlr8n is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2012, 03:34 AM   #27
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2002 WRX R.I.P.
2005 STi - sold

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by manys View Post
Not to take anything from your idea BUT

The easiest(cheapest - no special tools required) way to take out piston pins is by PUNCHING them OUT , NOT PULLING OUT

I just use long 0.25" metal rod I bought for $3 at ACE and a mullet(hammer)

You slide it trough #1 pin to punch out #3 (and vice versa)
You slide it trough #2 pin to punch out#4 (and vice versa)
I was under the impression that this was the norm... so much easier to pull out if the pins aren't stuck. Don't have to deal with a c-clip turned just enough to be in the way, or having to move a rod out of the way.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2012, 06:40 AM   #28
Crazykev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:
'03 Build'n a 2.12L
331whp/331wtq

Default

I also used a scissor jack to split my case.

I make my own thread chasers by cutting a slot through the threads of a bolt on either side with a dremel and cut-off disk. I also run a nut over it right after the cut to get rid of burrs if there are any.
Crazykev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2012, 08:33 PM   #29
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

I hate to admit this, because I like to think that I am pretty savvy when it comes to mechanical issues but here is my request.

I need someone to tell/show me how to (easily) install the rear main seal.
Every time I have done it, I struggle with it, and eventually get it in perfectly centered and proper, but it is ALWAYS the biggest pain in the A$$ for me on any short block I have touched so far.

I just cant bring myself to buy the SST from Subaru, but have thought about making one unless someone can demonstrate (with pictures) that they have an easier solution....

The way I do it now is by using an old rear main seal as a driver of sorts, and tap around the perimeter until I get it started. I have NEVER in my life had as much trouble with a press fit seal as I do when I do rear mains.
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2012, 10:02 PM   #30
Pacobeagle
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 8775
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Mobile,AL
Vehicle:
2010 "Zed" 1000
Orange/White

Default

I like a little tool called a "Spill-Free" funnel, by Lisle. It makes filling coolant on a subaru a dream. No more gurguling, bubbling troubles!!!
Pacobeagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2012, 10:04 PM   #31
Bad Noodle
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 174442
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NNJ
Vehicle:
2007 SuperWagon
I don't spell well

Default

^ if you go to home depot and pick up a 4" round plastic grate, you can it fits the seal exactly. I just put it over the seal and tap it in gently.

For reference:
Bad Noodle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2012, 10:29 PM   #32
binjoau
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 259948
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Regina, Canada
Vehicle:
MPS 510 whp GTX35R
Long Rod Motor

Default

I know a great way to remove them is 2 wood screws. Slowly turn them a few threads in on opposing sides and pull. Works perfectly!
binjoau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2012, 11:47 PM   #33
AREA1320
Former Vendor
 
Member#: 112508
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Easton, PA
Default

We use the crank pulley to drive I rear main seals. Works perfectly
AREA1320 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 01:27 AM   #34
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AREA1320
We use the crank pulley to drive I rear main seals. Works perfectly
You can assemble the half's with the new seal in place. If your not splitting the block a little white lube inside the seal and gray rtv outside the seal will help slide it on nicely. Should always add the white lube.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 01:47 AM   #35
vicious_fishes
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 158864
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Aussieland
Vehicle:
2003 GD w/EZ30D swap

Default

a simple crank over of the engine is enough to break the crank pulley bolt. simply put a breaker bar on it and sit the end of the bar on the chassis rail & kick the engine over once.

the cam gears are bastards and i found if you have the type i do, getting a big fat screwdriver and sliding it down through them to "hook" on the heads as you undo it is the way to go.

you can reuse the belt tensioner if you simple compress it in a metalwok vice. once you've got the hole lined up/piston pushed in far enough, a small nail makes the perfect "grenade pin" like they come from factory.

always crack your pulley nuts ASAP when removing an engine. don't wait to get it out & then do it.

same goes for the nuts on strut tops.

the gearbox dowels can be easily punched out with a mallet/hammer & philips head screwdriver. or if you need to push them out from the male end first, simply hit them with the hammer until they're flush in with the surface and then use the screwdriver like a nail punch.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 02-27-2012 at 01:52 AM.
vicious_fishes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #36
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AREA1320
We use the crank pulley to drive I rear main seals. Works perfectly
That is a great idea!

So is the 4" plastic grate from home depot.

I'm going to try both in the next build for sure.
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #37
Bamofo
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 159743
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth Ma
Vehicle:
07 STI Limited
TurboMike Tuned 2.35

Default

i install the rear main seal just before i seal up the block halves. slips right over the crank then you just get it in the right position and make sure it stays there. Haven't ever had a leak issue doing this
Bamofo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 03:51 PM   #38
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Engine CLeaning Brush Kit

Moroso Engine Cleaning Brush KitMoroso Engine Cleaning Brush Kit


There are a lot of options out there, but this is what I found. Input is definitely welcome This kit covers all of the sizes I measured on my block, with the exception of a 1" and 4". I can just use something else on the bores anyway...

Block Thread Chasers
I also bought 4 ARP thread chasers. Bought from Lightning Motorsports in LA (the state). They had them in stock with free shipping, and low prices.

912-0012 M6 x 1.0
912-0001 M8 x 1.25
912-0002 M10 x 1.25
912-0004 M11 x 1.25

Oh, almost forgot. Oil Galley plugs are M18 1.50 Found that here on NASIOC. Have not found a chaser for them yet, but I think there may be a sparg plug hole chaser that will work.

Last edited by aboothman; 03-10-2012 at 04:23 PM.
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 12:03 AM   #39
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

Ok here is another good one.

This is an eye liner brush.




Steal one from your chick/wife/babe or just go to the 99 Cent store and buy a few of them. This particular one is the PERFECT width for nearly EVERYTHING that gets gasket sealer on our engines.

If you look closely at the opposite end, there is a rubber spatula which is AWESOME for getting the extra goo out of the small oil passages like the ones in the cam caps as you will see in the pics below.






As you can see below, it does a fantastic job of spreading the Fuji Bond 1215 along the mating surfaces. It is also perfect for the oil pump mating surfaces and also for applying sealer to the threads of specific bolts that REQUIRE sealant as outlined in the FSM.




Does a great job of allowing you to keep your fingers clean while you spread out the bond, and the brushes will last a while. You just clean them up with brake cleaner and a rag and they are good to go the next time you need them. The biggest advantage to these particular brushes is how short the bristles are. They are relatively stiff so it makes for a nice smooth, even bead without the mess normally associated with this task.

Perfect bead, every time!
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 01:32 PM   #40
Crazykev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:
'03 Build'n a 2.12L
331whp/331wtq

Default

Good idea Team! I guess I'll be robbing one of the many girls in my house of thier "tools" again

Snatched up one of thier brushes a few nights ago to clean my head and case threads after chasing them. I cut about 3/4 of the brush length down to make it work. The tape was just to be shure the head didn't fall off.
Crazykev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #41
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

double post
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #42
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazykev View Post
Good idea Team! I guess I'll be robbing one of the many girls in my house of thier "tools" again

Snatched up one of thier brushes a few nights ago to clean my head and case threads after chasing them. I cut about 3/4 of the brush length down to make it work. The tape was just to be shure the head didn't fall off.
I'll see ya and raise ya a .40 cal

I use gun brushes for cleaning chased, threaded holes. They are made out of brass, bronze or hard plastic, they will accept a threaded extension rod, and by themselves or attached to the threaded extension rod can be chucked up in your cordless drill and absolutely sanitize threaded holes.





Squirt some brake cleaner in the hole, run the brush driven by your drill up and down the hole a couple of times, re-spray with brake cleaner and blow with compressed air and viola SPOTLESS threaded holes.
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 08:03 AM   #43
Crazykev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:
'03 Build'n a 2.12L
331whp/331wtq

Default

Nice! I'll have to look into those.
Crazykev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 02:09 AM   #44
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Ah ****... You posted those the day after I got my set of "engine cleaning brushes" lol!! Oh well they work for now.

I used the Dowel extraction trick today and it worked great. As it turns out the only m10 1.25 bolt I had that was long enough was an old case bolt. I use a combination of two 1/2" drive impact sockets and a wide 2mm thick washer against the case. I did not have to add any extra washers before the dowels came right out.

With the case bolt you need about 6-6.25 inches of socket/ tubing for the case bolt to pass through. As mentioned before make sure the opening is large enough to pull the dowel into.
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #45
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2006 FXT/STi 6MT
01 Aerosim GC8 Coupe

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Ah ****... You posted those the day after I got my set of "engine cleaning brushes" lol!! Oh well they work for now.

I used the Dowel extraction trick today and it worked great. As it turns out the only m10 1.25 bolt I had that was long enough was an old case bolt. I use a combination of two 1/2" drive impact sockets and a wide 2mm thick washer against the case. I did not have to add any extra washers before the dowels came right out.

With the case bolt you need about 6-6.25 inches of socket/ tubing for the case bolt to pass through. As mentioned before make sure the opening is large enough to pull the dowel into.
Oh man, I am sorry, I missed your post above with the link to the cleaning brushes , I would have steered you towards the gun brushes. Those brushes you got are fine too. You can snip off the round loop/handle and chuck the brushes into your cordless drill and do the same thing I do.

For anyone else, you can order gun brushes from Amazon, Brownells, Midway or Cabellas

Here is a variety pack on Amazon that will work for most/all of the holes in the cases and heads
CLICK ME NOWCLICK ME NOW
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 03:50 PM   #46
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Its cool... I have to figure things out for myself once in a while!!

What do you guys do to get the hex set screws out of the heads? I assume they are for the oil passages...and I want to get in there and clean everything out before sending them off for porting.
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 03:56 PM   #47
B.R.E.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 289606
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
06 WRX
white

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Its cool... I have to figure things out for myself once in a while!!

What do you guys do to get the hex set screws out of the heads? I assume they are for the oil passages...and I want to get in there and clean everything out before sending them off for porting.
I use a long handle 3\8ths drive ratchet with a allen bit on it. If you hold heavy constant pressure on them they will usually come loose, if they don't then you need to heat them with a torch.

The constant heavy pressure is important and some times it takes over a minute and then it will just randomly break free.

Matt
B.R.E.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 04:19 PM   #48
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

That makes sense. I already broke one 3/8 5mm bit lol, but it was a Kragen special.

Chasing Head Bolt Holes:
Here is another contribution regarding the ARP thread chasing taps I posted above. When chasing Head bolt/stud threads, I found that a 1/4" drive 6 inch extension fits the 11mm chaser PERFECTLY when flipped upside down, and fits nicely inside the thread hole. You can then use your standard tap tool on the end where you normally put a socket, but I prefer using hand strength. If I cannot turn the chaser anymore, then I obviously need to take it out and clean it, or look for a stray chunk of metal.

Or you can machine a couple grooves into an old Head Stud/ Bolt as one of you guys posted a while back
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2012, 05:26 PM   #49
cha86
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 111048
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: AA, Mi
Vehicle:
I <3 debt
word rally suck.

Default

To Remove the slide that holds the shift fork in place on the clutch..

simply use your battery tie down, screw into the end of the dowel, pull!

grease it up so when you insert, or ever need to take it out its smooooooth.


thats all i can think of at the moment.
cha86 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2012, 10:27 PM   #50
SpanishSubaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 257434
Join Date: Sep 2010
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Central MA
Vehicle:
2006 AW 2.5i Wagon
'05 WRX...sold :(

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by manys View Post
Not to take anything from your idea BUT

The easiest(cheapest - no special tools required) way to take out piston pins is by PUNCHING them OUT , NOT PULLING OUT

I just use long 0.25" metal rod I bought for $3 at ACE and a mullet(hammer)

You slide it trough #1 pin to punch out #3 (and vice versa)
You slide it trough #2 pin to punch out#4 (and vice versa)
^ stubborn wrist pins were the bane of my existence on my first build, I figured this out and the second time around was a breeze. I would never remove the wrist pins any other way.
SpanishSubaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What's the NASIOC of the Nissan world? jamesfacts Off-Topic 28 01-02-2012 07:50 PM
Check Engine Light????? Trick of the trade??? SIMPLieSUBARU Service & Maintenance 7 12-11-2009 11:26 PM
Whats the trick of sticking the center diff back on the tranny? reddevil Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 9 02-03-2008 02:06 PM
EBay thief reveals tricks of the trade. drebone8 Bay Area Impreza Club Forum -- BAIC 3 09-27-2003 10:53 PM
To the owner of the trick black legacy outback Sube Doo North West Impreza Club Forum -- NWIC 1 03-17-2000 08:25 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.