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Old 02-13-2012, 11:16 PM   #26
StiDreams
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Went cragging at Mt. St. Helena yesterday. Warmed up on Silverado Squatters (.10b). One hung my project (Wayne's Wrold .11a). Flashed Napa Valley Party Service (.11a) on TR. Flail on Stone Free (.11d).
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:28 AM   #27
ChrisTahoe
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3rd time climbing today and I managed a 5.10a at Sunshine in Spearfish canyon. I was pretty happy with myself.

Ibcoolstorybro
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:21 AM   #28
left footed whooten
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Nicely done, 10a is good for just starting, keep it up.

Been climbing the crap out of Alpine county crags, wish I could spray more about them but old local turds would get all vaginal. Ill just say it aint woodfords and it aint elephants graveyard. Supertopo search should give the rest. Its better basalt than big chief, i think the climbings better, even though its a fraction of the size. Its always sunny there. 50 yards from the car.

Been hitting owens and alabama hills a lot this year, going back to owens on sunday night till thursday. Stoked, should be 70 degrees + by tuesday. Heavy drinking and hottubbing until then. It freaking dumped a foot here last night, wont be able to ski on it till sunday at least anyway....i say screw skiing this year. Its climbing time, and alpine season is going to be le grande this year....big plans...getting ready for alps and limestone euro sportclimbing kind of big plans.

Lots of peaks to do, 'wants' for this summer:

Traverse Mount Gardiner back and forth.
Mt Carl Heller
Mt Humphreys
Mts Darwin and Mendel
The Citadel
Merriam Peak
Mt Williamson
Lone Pine Peak, some south face stuff and one of the N ridges.
Repeat Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
Middle Pal ice couloirs
Mt Sill, maybe with a temple/gayley traverse. Sucks, means you gotta camp in there with what seems like an REI employee party.
Devils Crags
Black Kaweah
Angel wings

Gonna hire some mules to bring in beers and beef for some of the last few, theyre 20 or so miles in. Im gonna want a 30 pack and a porterhouse ready....
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #29
StiDreams
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Nice list. I'm not sure how much I'll be able to cut into my list this year. Tim has lots of plans for the summer. I'm in the process of recruiting right now. We'll see how that goes.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:34 PM   #30
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Training question.

Within my workout session, when should I do Hangboard training?

I typically do a few weights to warmup, then boulder for a hour, then do about 10 mins of stretches.

Should I do my hangboarding before climbing as part of my warm up, or should I do them at the end, to really wear my grip out?
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:07 PM   #31
OriginalSin
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headed to red rocks in april to climb with my friend before he's off to latok

hopefully do a bit of rock in Garhwal to in august.


TR - i'd do it in your off days... but thats just my opinion
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
headed to red rocks in april to climb with my friend before he's off to latok

hopefully do a bit of rock in Garhwal to in august.


TR - i'd do it in your off days... but thats just my opinion
Yeah, I gotta get a board for my apartment.

I agree that would be best, but I dont want to make another trip to the gym just to do hangboard training.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:39 PM   #33
OriginalSin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarmacRally

Yeah, I gotta get a board for my apartment.

I agree that would be best, but I dont want to make another trip to the gym just to do hangboard training.
Yes - def need a board at home!

I might have an extra one I'd ship you
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:45 AM   #34
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i do the hangboard after a climbing session, that way all the muscles and tendons are warmed up and streched. Its very easy to get hurt on one, I wouldnt do it as a warm up.
I use juggy routes or boulder problems to warm up on. I have a board at home, hardly use it. I just cant get into that mindset at home.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:26 AM   #35
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mine has several 10-15min routines to go through
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:31 AM   #36
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I'll be heading to Moab and Indian Creek in May. This should be an interesting trip considering I haven't climbed since October...


Anyone have any tips on getting back in shape for someone with no rock/gym within 2 hours of them?
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:42 AM   #37
namitherussian
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That sounds like an awesome trip. I went to Moab in September, got a chance to boulder, didnt get on any routes unfortunatly. It was amazing how much friction that sandstone has. I think being in good cardio shape will help a lot. I have talked to several people who had a long break due to injuries. Both have said that certainly the strenght is lost, but not being in good cardio shape is what affected their ability to get back to the same level of climbing. Combine cardio with hangboard?
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:47 AM   #38
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i climbed ancient art (which i just saw in some commercial), castleton, and crooked arrow spire.

crooked arrow spire has a rad chimmney

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Old 03-20-2012, 09:16 AM   #39
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thats looks like fun,

its the Citi card commercial with katie brown and honnold probably
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:18 AM   #40
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ancient art is just one of those you almost have to climb.

Kor Ingalls route on Castleton is a classic 50
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:06 AM   #41
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would love to get out there again sometime, hopefully my trad mentor will have some vacation time in the fall to go west.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:19 AM   #42
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It has been too long. I need a trip.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:28 AM   #43
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Man, my hands are getting sweaty just thinking about climbing
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:37 AM   #44
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same here itching to get on some real rock. The weather has been awesome here mid 70s sunny, last year around this time we had a snow storm. Down in KY it is 88F. Have been climbing on a fake wall we have here near downtown, but nothing like real stuff. Was looking forward to going to KY or WV this upcoming weekend but it looks like rain down there
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:25 AM   #45
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Checking in, 27, been climbing 10 years, recently getting over broken collar bone and lazy winter.

Been out to Sandrock in Al. and did some sport climbing. Don't remember the routes names but they were on the sun wall. I lead a 5.9 and topped a 5.10b. Also red pointed Two Pump Chump....no beta, no advice, just crushed it. Broke my collar bone in a bike wreck. Now that I am back on the game, and training in the gym, headed out to LRC or Rock Town for our club trip Easter weekend. Pretty excited to be climbing again!
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:26 AM   #46
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Nice, that's my old neighborhood! Kinda miss the chill times at Sandrock.

If you can somehow make it out there on Easter weekend, you'll likely see a crucifixion reenactment from the local religious types. We saw it happen last year while we were bouldering and it was...disturbing to say the least.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:26 PM   #47
namitherussian
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Al another place I would like to visit HP40 in particular
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:32 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sobe_death View Post
I'll be heading to Moab and Indian Creek in May. This should be an interesting trip considering I haven't climbed since October...


Anyone have any tips on getting back in shape for someone with no rock/gym within 2 hours of them?
Climb buildings, anything you can. Drive to a gym if you can, if not, get that core strong however you can. Buy a hangboard, they suck, but its better than nothing. Or bolt up a few holds somewhere and stay off the ground doing moves for long periods of time.

Bring lots of tape and drink heavily.

I just went last may and got rained the hell back out of there. I was off the couch with a half injured ankle as well. Indian Creek is tough, but getting spanked there is still fun. Wall Street is fun too and a little more forgiving
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:25 AM   #49
StiDreams
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My partner has been MIA so I had to round up some more. I have a trip planned for two weeks out to go to Lover's Leap and Sugarloaf. I'm totally stoked.
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:24 PM   #50
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bought some rock rings

holy **** my arms and shoulders hurt
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