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Old 03-24-2012, 11:12 PM   #1
ebolamonk3y
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Default ETS TMIC (2012 - casted) - Review

Here are some pics comparing the ETS piece to my 08 STI TMIC:











Fully mounted:



There are some issues with fitment. The hardline y-pipe that connects the vent hoses does not fit on the TMIC. There is no way for me to get the bracket on there without hitting the BPV so I had to bend the bracket to fit one bolt and left off the other one since it won't fit. I'm just going to use a T-connector and T the two hoses near the passenger side together and run a 1/2" hose and connect that to the hose from the other head on the driver's side. It's not pretty but it will work.

The TMIC mounting bracket itself is a tiny bit short which if you tighten one side of the TMIC mount the other side will be slightly short and you will end up overtightening/crushing the rubber mount.

Performance wise is to be determined. Anything will work better than the questionably painted TMIC that came with my 08 STI. There's at least 3 coating's worth of Hi-temp flat black BBQ grill paint on here I suspect.

Car setup:
Wiseco 995
Walbro 255
ID1000
GD FPR
KSTech 73mm
ETS TMIC
Agency Headers
Invidia Catted DP
TIGWERKS Uppipe
Blouch 20GXT
IXIZAOSep
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Last edited by ebolamonk3y; 03-25-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:54 PM   #2
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This thing is 25lbs. I checked my UPS package label. The cast version is much sturdier than the previous one made with sheet metal but be aware of the extra weight if you are weight conscious.

You need to reuse the stock y-pipe. The TMIC they sent me had 4xM8x1.25 nuts but you need two more for the BPV which I found at my local Ace Hardware store.

The stock gasket is 21896AA010 (you need a pair) or you can use the Permatex Red RTV High-Temp gasket maker. I used the gasket maker. Let it cure for 2 hrs after finger tightening the nuts on the y-pipe and then snug it on there (gasket fully cures after 24 hours and dries after 2 hours).

This TMIC is much easier to get on than my stock TMIC for some reason even though it is bulkier. I think I aligned my turbo-IC hose perfect so that it slides right on when I drop this thing down. Again, the only drawback is that it does not work with the stock hard-line (two bolts attached to the TMIC) so you need to re-route your hoses. It's probably better to reroute the hoses because the hardline cools rapidly during winter time and allows the milky gunk to form in the lines. If the metal lines were to be replaced with rubber/silicone hoses the hoses will provide a bit more insulation and retain the heat in the blow-by vapors thus resulting in less gunk formation in the lines.

I'm getting my car re-tuned with this at Kinetic Motor Works in NH to see if it will make any difference in my sub-par dyno tune the first time with that dreadful painted stock TMIC...

While I was back there I also turkey basted my clutch fluid so it is now nice and clean again.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:43 PM   #3
Bbrady05
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That is a sick set up
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:30 AM   #4
Peenstar
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Looks awesome, huge difference in size and density.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:18 PM   #5
ebolamonk3y
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ETS claims that this thing has less of a pressure drop vs. Process West. While I cannot validate that statement since I do not have a Process West to compare this to I can say that for my car on the current setup the pressure drop differential is noticeable and has been verified by data logging.

The GrimmSpeed ECBS is pre-IC (wastegate, turbo, intake hoses) and the MAP sensor is post IC.

On previous data logs via Torque and also on my dyno runs (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2329845) I saw around 18.5PSI of boost max. While I was logging yesterday on my road trip I saw boost peak of 20.5PSI and consistent peak boost in the 19.5-20.0PSI range. This is a +1.0 to +1.5 gain in peak boost! This thing outflows a stock 08 STI TMIC which is already massive in itself!

More to come after I get re-tuned for this awesome TMIC!

Last edited by ebolamonk3y; 03-28-2012 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:31 PM   #6
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Now for some 'bad.' Here are some of the fitment issues that I've experienced on my setup. The stock y-pipe hardline bracket had to be bent in order to one side of it to barely mount onto the TMIC as seen in the pictures below.





See how even with the bent bracket that it does not clear the BPV and the line is resting on the BPV. I've mounted this without the BPV without a bent bracket and after mounting the hardline you cannot fit the BPV on there anymore hence a fitment issue as the hardline would be running through the BPV which is a difficult thing to do.













The bracket had to be bent in order to fit it on there and only one side could mount on there comfortably. I'm going to use a T-connector on the passenger side and 90 degree elbow the other end and run a 1/2" hose between the two and chuck that OEM piece tomorrow.

The mesh is something that I added to protect the fins on the TMIC from bending.

Last edited by ebolamonk3y; 03-28-2012 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:58 PM   #7
Extreme Turbo Systems
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I'm going to give you a call today. We are going to address the issue with the castings. It looks like the blow off valve flange on all our castings is higher than our hand fab units. All the other dimensions seem to be correct. I want to send you a correct hand fab unit if that works for you.

Michael
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:52 PM   #8
ebolamonk3y
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Keep your original hand fabs. Mine works fine and I've rigged a clear braided hose to replace that stupid metal hardline as seen in the pics below:









This also allows me to see how much blowby is gunking up in the hose. The hose itself is not thermally conductive so it won't have a heatsink effect which I think will alleviate some of the clogged arteries.

Don't worry as I've clamped down the t-bolt and put the M8x1.25's on the BPV after the pics.

The fin protecting mesh I have on there (mosquito net) is quite effective at catching stuff. I just brushed off the little rocks and I am good to go!

One thing I have to note here though is that the fins are so closely spaced together unlike the stock TMIC that little rocks can get lodged (permanently) in the small spaces which could be an issue. I'm not sure how TMIC gets cleaned out. Maybe with the air compressor on full blast? Don't know if that's a good idea as these fins bend easily with very little force. If I can't pick it out with a toothpick I'll use a vacuum cleaner in conjunction. Regardless though the mosquito netting is very effective in keeping little rocks out.

Last edited by ebolamonk3y; 03-28-2012 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:03 AM   #9
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I got tuned by John Visconti @ The SHOP CT today. What an experience! I'll let the numbers do the talking on this one:



+65wtq/+30whp vs previous tune!!!

Both runs are done on the ETS TMIC.

John Visconti @ The SHOP CT (top curve)
Kinetic Motor Works (other curve)

Big shout out goes to John Visconti who finally brought out the true potential of my car and to the guys at Import Cars of Stamford (ICS) for giving me the dyno time to get the car tuned!

I dynoed the car at DynoTech again and got this:

This is a comparison of just the power bands:



That's with the ETS TMIC and a tune from John.

Last edited by ebolamonk3y; 03-31-2012 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:59 AM   #10
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The hardline issue... solved!

I think rather than re-machining the TMIC to fit the hardline ETS should just have a kit to toss out that piece all together. Maybe they should poll customers to see what they want to do.

Why do I suggest tossing out the hardline? As of today when I looked under the hood the braided clear hose that connects the hoses venting the blowby is CLEAR! There is no gunk inside the hose where as the hardline is FILLED with the white chessy stuff like clogged arteries. When the hot/warm blowby gasses passes through the metal lines the gasses will condense and cool around the insides of the line because the metal surface draws out the heat resulting in the cottage cheese effect. Braided clear hose or a black fuel hose is insulating so the inner walls does not draw out the heat thus the gasses have no need to condense along the walls so long as temperature differential between the inside and outside temps is not too great (i.e. it's like like -14*F outside while you are making short stop drives).

I'd personally prefer a kit (which is just my current setup) from ETS with a T/Y connector, barbed connector, and a braided clear (easy viewing of blowby condition) or fuel hose to replace the stupid OEM setup.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:47 AM   #11
juanmedina
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So what is the CFM of this TMIC?
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:35 PM   #12
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I spoke to Michael at ETS last week and he said that for their TMIC the CFM is 2,000
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:38 PM   #13
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The tap on the front has been revised and everything bolts up like stock now.

Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:00 PM   #14
Luis Franco
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I had an issue with mine, the bolt on the passenger side bracket rubs on the intercooler, so i had to remove one of the pieces not with out scratching the hell out of a part of the botton and bending a few fins.

I dont know if there are instructions for the install but mine did not have any...
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