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Old 04-03-2012, 05:22 PM   #51
Maxwell Power
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Originally Posted by dnorton View Post
Hey Everyone, I have to say that Josh from Import Image is one great guy when it comes to standing behind what he sales. The pistons were dropped shipped from JE or whoever he buys from. He turned in his order and there must have been a screw up on the other end. Josh still paid for the right set of pistons to be over nighted out of his pocket. He could have said that it wasn't his problem and rolled on. He didn't and stuck in there so in my book that's one good retailer with dam good customer service.
I'm very impressed. That's not the service I would have expected!

So... now what are you going to do? I would leave your system the way it is. If you put the "correct" pistons in it, you'll have 8.9:1 compression ratio.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:05 AM   #52
dnorton
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Dom, I've been tuning the car these last few nights until 1am trying to get her dialed in. She is loving everything we throw at her. She has O knock which I assume has to do with the CR ?

We do have a lean spike that we are working with before we go any higher but for the most part the car is a blast to drive.

What I've noticed and so has my wife who went for a ride last night is it runs quieter then before. It has a lot more of a mellow sound and cruses in lower gears without being jerky.
I'm very happy with it and yes I plan on keeping it this way. It does make a little bit of noise and I can only guess it beating the heck out of the cylinders.It has a little more vibration then before and at low idle at start up if I give it a little gas i swear I can hear the pistons slap the walls. You'd have to be in the car to understand what I'm trying to say but I hear it.
I raced for many years when I was a lot younger in karts and had a sponsor. I had my own motor builder who would go to the track with me at all big meets and he loved working with me cause I could come back and tell him what I felt. For the most part I was dead on. The only reason for that comment is to say I feel the car like it's a part of me. I do love the way she feels with this motor. I have the best of both worlds. It rides like a stocker so smooth around town but at highway speeds she comes a live.

You know Dom, Since I've own the car and had motors built for my car they never could get it right. The biggest problem is they used drop in pistons and run a small PTWC. They knew I liked driving highway speeds instead of short bursts. They would D-Tune the car so I wouldn't blow it up running up top but what they never understood is it could stick a piston. I'd never held it WOT for long but would do it often. This setup I stumbled into seems perfect for that style of driving ?

One more thing, Josh went out of his way to make it right for me. He knows my wife is leaving me this month to move back to Calif and I need the car finished before she leaves. He over nighted the pistons out of his own pocket and paid for the pistons. I wrote him back after reading your post and thinking I'd leave the motor the way it is but it was to late. So I tried to pay for half of what it cost him but he wouldn't have any of it. That's really good of him and I do appreciate him bending over back wards to help me out.

So what I think I'm going to do since the pistons I have now do slap a lot and I feel it can only be a matter of time before they do some damage that I'll start on saving up for another short block. I'll need a block,crank and rods and I'll be able to have another short block. Then if all this slapping around doesn't hurt my crank or Eagle rods I can bore over to 100mm and build the short for back up. I'll have to buy pistons and not sure what the ones will look like that are in there now after so much slapping ?

I'd like to stay in touch and see what happens with this build. The gas mileage is going up as we tune, a little. I have 1000 IDs that I purchased from JR so that could be someone of reason, I guess. I was getting with the old set up 22/23 MPG on the highway. Now it looks like 18.8 MPG but we are not finished tuning. I'm hoping it gets better. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks,

Last edited by dnorton; 04-04-2012 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:16 AM   #53
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Nice update!
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:21 PM   #54
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Update, Well we are having to stop building power and figure out why we are having a lean spike. It seems to be getting worst then better, It's adding fuel everyehere,
The MAF scale looks great but for some reason we are having a problem finding why we are having this spike.

Well tonight is another night of tuning so I'm crossing my fingers and hoping we get it.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:23 PM   #55
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who's doing your tuning? Care to send me a log?
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:25 PM   #56
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also, how big are your injectors? Fuel pump? Fuel Pump controller?
did you check the boost line to the fpr is installed properly?
What is boost at the lean spike?
What is your AVCS?
What is fuel pump duty? With larger injectors the fuel pump doesn't kick into it's higher flow modes at the same time so you could have a drop in fuel pressure.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:05 PM   #57
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Dom, Thanks for the tips. I'm going out to check on the FPR hose that connects to my manifold on the passenger side. I have the AP fuel rails and the only thing I didn't connect was the Purge Valve since it no longers has a place for the return line to connect to.
I have the 1000cc IDs and a DW 300 fuel pump. My AVCS are the standard one that the 07 WRX comes with.
That's all I know since Mikey does all the tuning. I can down load and up load plus log but that's it :-)
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:26 PM   #58
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Dom, I'm not funny by no means but if you was here right I'd give you a big Ole hung !
You hit it dead on first shot, It was the FPR boost line that connects to the side of the manifold was disconnected. We had to pull off the turbo reservoir to get to the oil supply Y line that feeds the AVCS and turbo. It leaked bad when first installed and I had to go back in a tighten everything again. That's scary that it could come lose and spray oil everywhere.
So we must have left the line off or it came off not having a tie wrap on it. It does now and we should be good to go.
Thanks a bunch !
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:46 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by dnorton View Post
Dom, I'm not funny by no means but if you was here right I'd give you a big Ole hung !
You hit it dead on first shot, It was the FPR boost line that connects to the side of the manifold was disconnected. We had to pull off the turbo reservoir to get to the oil supply Y line that feeds the AVCS and turbo. It leaked bad when first installed and I had to go back in a tighten everything again. That's scary that it could come lose and spray oil everywhere.
So we must have left the line off or it came off not having a tie wrap on it. It does now and we should be good to go.
Thanks a bunch !

I'm here for ya.

oh and after 12 years in the Navy, you'd have to be REALLY "funny" to offend or bug me.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:15 PM   #60
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Dom is good!

I was logging doing a pull and right at WOT, I blew off the vac line on the mani, and just by looking at the log he knew exactly which hose I blew off, before I even looked at it.

I wish I was close to WA, so he could tune my car

-Phil
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:08 PM   #61
dnorton
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Originally Posted by ronzogonzo View Post
Dom is good!

I was logging doing a pull and right at WOT, I blew off the vac line on the mani, and just by looking at the log he knew exactly which hose I blew off, before I even looked at it.

I wish I was close to WA, so he could tune my car

-Phil
That's knowing the hardware plus software, You don't see that often.
Dom has made a name for himself. It's like if EF Huntin talks everyone listens. That's Dom with our car and parts.
I hear so many talking about his short stroke motors and how they can turn 9k without a problem. I'd Love to own one and plan on having one some day.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:22 PM   #62
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Yeah, I've talked to him a bunch of times and I'm impressed. There are so many hack "tuners" in the subaru community, its refreshing to actually have someone who knows what they are doing.

-Phil
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #63
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dhagen, your experience is why I took my business to Maxwell Power.

He understands these cars at a deep level.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:53 AM   #64
dnorton
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If Dom or the business Maxwell Power Service was in Jacksonville it would be a gold mine. We have no shops at all close to Jax that knows Subies. The shop in Tampa is the only shop that I know of close to us and I have my doubts about them. Not wanting to start any trouble just I'm not sure if they are the guys I'd want working on my car. I've been thu that already taking my car to a shop that everyone said was the best only to spend money for crap.
I'm still spending money to repair that mistake, Thus the reason I did the work this time myself, My thinking is I couldn't do any worst then what they've done. As a matter of fact I think I've done a better job. At lease this time my car parts are not over tighten or tape together. I know of every part on my car and how it was torqued. Nothing has came lose and this time no AC leak from them bending my high pressure hose till it leaked twice. Plus my power steering pump works fine not one issue at start up and everything looks and runs great.
Now I will say being a novice at assembling a subaru motor I didn't catch the CR but then I did. I know for a fact I called or textured the only guy I trusted and asked do the pistons come to the deck and he said no. That the motors are low CR but it was my fault for not saying it's under by 3/16 to a 1/4 and not .020/ He assume that was what I had. Heck he thought like myself that when I purchased the rods and pistons I must have received the right parts for my build.
Well all in all it was a blessing to some degree. I think I like the lower CR then a high one for a DD. I can have that top end that I so much love without busting a piston, I hope. I know it's not going to stick unless I'm a complete idiot and not watch my gauges.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:58 AM   #65
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I like your motor dnorton (if u remember my low compression thread). The uk guys also run lower comp closed deck motors, can u say reliable 500whp !
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:59 AM   #66
dnorton
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Originally Posted by soon2bblackongold View Post
I like your motor dnorton (if u remember my low compression thread). The uk guys also run lower comp closed deck motors, can u say reliable 500whp !
This has opened my eyes up to a whole new way of thinking in regards to CR with the Subie. I really Love the way she's coming a long. She runs so smooth no more of that jerky feeling when in slow traffic or when I would drive Thu my streets coming home at night and having to find a gear that she would cruse in. Now is a dream, It's like night and day over the way she use to be.
The one thing that somewhat concerns me is I've heard from a couple of guys that I'm going to lose my bottom end. She doesn't feel like I'm losing bottom end but then again I haven't really got on her at low speeds. I'm still breaking her in but I would like to do some SCCA Solo driving this year just to let off some steam. The car is set up to drive in the Street Tire Mod class so she has to put out a little to be competitive. But then again if I have to choose between the way she is now with having good highway speeds for SCCA I'll pick the way she is now.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:58 PM   #67
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One thing i've really realized is that you should take every and any poster or tuners posts with a grain of salt. Turbo cars don't need high compression to make power, and lag or transitional response via compression change is HIGHLY overrated. If we always had the same ambient and elevation to test, it would be a lot easier to get finite answers.
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:24 PM   #68
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drive the car in its power band. that's all I'm going to say.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:10 PM   #69
dnorton
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drive the car in its power band. that's all I'm going to say.
Hey K, I wish I was a little smarter to all of this but the fact is I've been on bikes all my life and Karts. I didn't build motors with neither but I'm doing my best to learn as I go. I appreciate all the advise I can get and do listen. I built this motor with the help of you guys and some didn't know it like yourself. I did my own heads since I was set up to do so. I use to do all the port work to the piston ported motor we use to ran plus the Carbs.

I read every post or thread you written or responded to for the most part. When you wrote the above I didn't follow, would you explain in detail ?

Thanks,
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:55 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by dnorton

Hey K, I wish I was a little smarter to all of this but the fact is I've been on bikes all my life and Karts. I didn't build motors with neither but I'm doing my best to learn as I go. I appreciate all the advise I can get and do listen. I built this motor with the help of you guys and some didn't know it like yourself. I did my own heads since I was set up to do so. I use to do all the port work to the piston ported motor we use to ran plus the Carbs.

I read every post or thread you written or responded to for the most part. When you wrote the above I didn't follow, would you explain in detail ?

Thanks,
it was more towards the compression ratio thing. you start of with a little more engine response with a higher cr and more torque initially. lower compression you have a little less torque to start if with. This is where it's going to matter on your whole setup. Smaller turbos can run fine on slightly higher compression ratios. Turbos, usually larger ones that love boost would benefit more with slightly lower compression ratio.

Now we all know larger turbos come on later in the rpms. Threat power band with them is different from smaller turbos. People keep wanting to have more lowend and power at the same time. Doesn't always work that way. If your turbo makes its peak boost around 4000rpms, you best keep in a gear that will keep the engine near or above there so you can make the most out of your power when you need it.

I drive my car with a TD04L differently from the TD06SL2 20G. Both different power bands and power outputs. One is from 3000-6000rpms, the other is 4000-7000rpms.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:13 PM   #71
dnorton
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So K,With a HTA-68 Ported and polished, if that means anything at all. Would this still be a good turbo for low end ? I would think the way I set my car up before knowing I was going to have a 7.9.1 CR that it would be good for SCCA solo events. More down low then up in the higher RPMs. It feels really good now with the way Mikey is tuning her. It pulls really good from 80 to 100 and still off the corners in third it runs strong. IT seems to be the best I've had in the car. I had two short blocks before this one and those were stock STI blocks with drop in CP pistons.
This set up makes me feel I'll never go back to a high CR if this is how they run. I was thinking of looking at Dom's lighter rods and billet pistons for my next build. So far I'm very happy with how the motor responds and feels.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:42 PM   #72
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that turbo will work well for autocross, IMO. Has decently quick spool up and decent up top. Similar to running an 18G.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:01 PM   #73
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That's was my plan until I ran into this issue of having low CR but it still seems to have a decent bottom end. She feels best around 80/90 and still will sit you back in the seat if you floor it. Of course on a close course :-)
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:22 PM   #74
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That turbo will work nice for autox, HTA68 likes ALOT of boost, really only makes decent power at high boost.

If you're looking for good low end, get the 7cm2 exhaust housing. FP only sells it now with the 8cm2 housing so you would either have to find a used one, find a vendor that has an older one in stock, or purchase a 7cm2 hotside.

I wouldn't waste your money on porting it.

-Phil
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:34 AM   #75
dnorton
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Thanks Flat, I do have the 7cm and it came ported but I running EWG. The port work was done the the front side of the turbo. Here's a couple of photos I took after I powder coated the turbine housing of the front side.

I did have at one time a 10cm I purchase from Maxwell but with this build I switched back to the 7cm that was like brand new. I sent the turbo back to FP and they recondition it like new. It looked good when I sent it back but I wanted to be sure.

My thinking was if I wanted to do any auto cross I should run the 7 instead.

Last edited by dnorton; 07-10-2012 at 02:35 PM.
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