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Old 04-04-2012, 09:54 AM   #1
ManualOverAuto
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Pretty confused here, because this has never been a problem before. :/

I will admit I went to an oil change place instead of doing it myself. Now that it is warm out I will start changing it myself.

With that being said, after this past oil change when I go to check the oil it's always way above the "notch" on the dipstick. After a whole night of sitting, its above the notch and after its up to temperature, it's above the notch. Not just a little above the notch either, like just about to the first twist in the dipstick.

At first I though they overfilled it, so I went back and had them re-do it. Strangely it still reads the same, hot or cold, above the notch. I've been there 3 different times too and the previous 2 were perfect. Oil always read at the correct lines, ect, ect.

As a last option I will change it myself in a few days and see if that helps. Since they did the oil filter too all I have to do its drain the oil and fill, and I don't even have to jack the car!
It might even finally be the time I switch to t6 or some better oil.

But why would it read differently now? I've heard of people saying their dipstick shows nothing but not way overfilled. Not a big concern here, it's just hard to get a good dipstick reading.
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Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 04-04-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:28 AM   #2
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It must be overfilled drain some and check it, you don't have to drain it all.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:46 AM   #3
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Sounds like it was overfilled....
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:06 AM   #4
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I'll try but what are the odds they messed up twice? I even heard them say "4.2 quarts".
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:14 PM   #5
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I don't know about odds but the probability is pretty high.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:22 PM   #6
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You are wiping the dipstick and checking it a couple times right? When the car runs, oil can splash on the dipstick, and possibly go up the dipstick tube a little. This could lead to erroneous readings. I pull my dipstick, wipe it, put it in, pull it out, read it, wipe it, etc. until I get 3 good readings. This is just to make sure I'm not getting oil on the dipstick from somewhere else.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon117
You are wiping the dipstick and checking it a couple times right? When the car runs, oil can splash on the dipstick, and possibly go up the dipstick tube a little. This could lead to erroneous readings. I pull my dipstick, wipe it, put it in, pull it out, read it, wipe it, etc. until I get 3 good readings. This is just to make sure I'm not getting oil on the dipstick from somewhere else.
Yup I read multiple times each time. Just tried to do it again after it sitting for 7-8 hours and it's still at the notch.

Nows actually a good chance to move to a better oil. Since the oil filter only had 200 miles on it I can just drain and re-fill right?

I want to start using t6 because of all the good reviews on here but it makes me nervous because I doubt this car has ever seen synthetic. It got it at 100k miles and the oil change place has used conventional Mobil each time and it burns no oil (that I can notice). Who knows what was used before though. I've heard that gaskets that are used to conventional dont respond well to synthetic.

Probably still gonna go for it. I mean really if it leaks after I use synthetic, then it would probably leak eventually anyway right?

Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 04-04-2012 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
Yup I read multiple times each time. Just tried to do it again after it sitting for 7-8 hours and it's still at the notch.

Nows actually a good chance to move to a better oil. Since the oil filter only had 200 miles on it I can just drain and re-fill right?

I want to start using t6 because of all the good reviews on here but it makes me nervous because I doubt this car has ever seen synthetic. It got it at 100k miles and the oil change place has used conventional Mobil each time and it burns no oil (that I can notice). Who knows what was used before though. I've heard that gaskets that are used to conventional dont respond well to synthetic.

Probably still gonna go for it. I mean really if it leaks after I use synthetic, then it would probably leak eventually anyway right?
d00000000d.....my 96 impreza wagon 2.2 had between 165k and 170k miles when I changed from quaker state 5w30 to the shell T-6 5w40 and I haven't had any issues except for a small leak on the oil fill tube that bolts to the drivers side head which I just need to seal up better.

Stop worrying about it and just DO it! Nothing is going to be harmed in the process. Make sure you fill your oil filter before sticking it on so there isn't a dry start up Takes around 1/3 quart to fill the filter just for reference. What oil filter do you use? If you can get a pureOne Purelator PL14460 it is very high quality filter which is what I use on my car.

Now, it might burn some at first until it the engine gets used to the new better oil so don't worry if it does.

Last edited by subi400; 04-04-2012 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400

d00000000d.....my 96 impreza wagon 2.2 had between 165k and 170k miles when I changed from quaker state 5w30 to the shell T-6 5w40 and I haven't had any issues except for a small leak on the oil fill tube that bolts to the drivers side head which I just need to seal up better.

Stop worrying about it and just DO it! Nothing is going to be harmed in the process. Make sure you fill your oil filter before sticking it on so there isn't a dry start up Takes around 1/3 quart to fill the filter just for reference. What oil filter do you use? If you can get a pureOne Purelator PL14460 it is very high quality filter which is what I use on my car.

Now, it might burn some at first until it the engine gets used to the new better oil so don't worry if it does.
I'm not sure what filter. Like I said I've only had 3 oil changes in the 11k miles I've put on the car. It's been cold so im too lazy to do it myself, so I go to a Lube Center. Now that it's warm I will do them myself.

That brings me to another question. Do you know if my filter is horizontal or vertical? (my01 impreza L 2.2 blah blah blah)

Horizontal ones from what I hear are difficult/near impossible to fill before threading them back on.
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
I'm not sure what filter. Like I said I've only had 3 oil changes in the 11k miles I've put on the car. It's been cold so im too lazy to do it myself, so I go to a Lube Center. Now that it's warm I will do them myself.

That brings me to another question. Do you know if my filter is horizontal or vertical? (my01 impreza L 2.2 blah blah blah)

Horizontal ones from what I hear are difficult/near impossible to fill before threading them back on.
Have you looked at where the oil filter is?? It's right under the timing belt cover on the passenger side of the engine in a vertical position So, yes you can fill the filter but screw it on slowly so not to spill oil out of the filter. But make sure you take a little bit of new oil with your finger and spread it on the rubber gasket on the oil filter before screwing it on so next time you change it, it won't be a pain in the rear to take off..
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400

Have you looked at where the oil filter is?? It's right under the timing belt cover on the passenger side of the engine in a vertical position So, yes you can fill the filter but screw it on slowly so not to spill oil out of the filter. But make sure you take a little bit of new oil with your finger and spread it on the rubber gasket on the oil filter before screwing it on so next time you change it, it won't be a pain in the rear to take off..
That thing!! The black cylinder thing!!? Wow I didn't think it was that obvious. Can't believe I payed people to do this for me :/
Damn I'm lazy in the winter.......

This also confirms that I don't have to jack the car up or use any ramps to change oil and filter. I just crawl under and unscrew, refill & replace, and screw back on.

Drain plug gasket isn't necessary to replace everytime right?

Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 04-04-2012 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:44 PM   #12
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Its a crush washer and it should be replaced.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mod maniac
Its a crush washer and it should be replaced.
Oh. So I have to order one everytime or are they pretty universal to where an advanced would carry them?

I like how this became a "how to change oil thread" from me being confused about my dipstick.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:24 PM   #14
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Oil Plug Gasket (crush washer):
Napa: 7041963

http://www.napaonline.com
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnM10
Oil Plug Gasket (crush washer):
Napa: 7041963

http://www.napaonline.com
Cool thanks

Hopefully advanced carries then because the closest napa is like 40 min away. Advanced is under 15 min.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
Oh. So I have to order one everytime or are they pretty universal to where an advanced would carry them?

I like how this became a "how to change oil thread" from me being confused about my dipstick.
Yeah, well if you need to know something then you need to know right...

The crusher washer is supposed to be replaced every time, but I have reused mine since 2004.... But, you could change it every other oil change, just make sure to clean the washer from any debris after taking it off and then tighten down the oil drain plug not really tight, just snug.
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:18 AM   #17
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The one at both Advance and Autozone is the wrong crush washer. Go to the dealer once, buy 10 crush rings. They're 76 cents each. Go back a couple of years from now when you run out.

Use the Purolator PureOne PL14610 oil filter. Yes, I know that's not the filter the book at the parts store will tell you to use but it's the closest to correct of any filter offered by any aftermarket manufacturer for your car.

The reason they overfilled it twice is that, while the book calls for 4.2 at an oil change, less drains out (and they don't let it drain very long at a quick-lube place) than the factory expects. If you put in what they book says, you'll always be overfilled. Try putting just a gallon in, including the pre-fill into the filter. You'll find that you'll almost always be 3/4 of the way between the L and F lines on the stick.
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
The one at both Advance and Autozone is the wrong crush washer. Go to the dealer once, buy 10 crush rings. They're 76 cents each. Go back a couple of years from now when you run out.

Use the Purolator PureOne PL14610 oil filter. Yes, I know that's not the filter the book at the parts store will tell you to use but it's the closest to correct of any filter offered by any aftermarket manufacturer for your car.

The reason they overfilled it twice is that, while the book calls for 4.2 at an oil change, less drains out (and they don't let it drain very long at a quick-lube place) than the factory expects. If you put in what they book says, you'll always be overfilled. Try putting just a gallon in, including the pre-fill into the filter. You'll find that you'll almost always be 3/4 of the way between the L and F lines on the stick.
I am sorry, but the PureOne PL14610 is not the correct filter for a NA subaru as I have held both in my hands and the pl14610 is made for a 02-05 wrx that has the oil cooler adapter. The correct one that needs to be used is the Purelator PureOne PL14460 as I have it on my 96 impreza NA and the OP has a 2001 impreza NA. The part of the filter that screws on the block part is further down into the filter on the PL14610 than the PL14460 and won't screw on properly for the older impreza NA's. My brothers 05 rs manual uses the same filter same part number as what my 96 impreza manual uses which is the PL14460.

Now, if the OP has a manual, then this PL14460 is the correct part number for the PureOne filter. If his is an automatic, then yes the PL14610 might be the correct part number for the PureOne filter.

OP, do you have a manual or automatic?
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
I am sorry, but the PureOne PL14610 is not the correct filter for a NA subaru as I have held both in my hands and the pl14610 is made for a 02-05 wrx that has the oil cooler adapter. The correct one that needs to be used is the Purelator PureOne PL14460 as I have it on my 96 impreza NA and the OP has a 2001 impreza NA. The part of the filter that screws on the block part is further down into the filter on the PL14610 than the PL14460 and won't screw on properly for the older impreza NA's. My brothers 05 rs manual uses the same filter same part number as what my 96 impreza manual uses which is the PL14460.

Now, if the OP has a manual, then this PL14460 is the correct part number for the PureOne filter. If his is an automatic, then yes the PL14610 might be the correct part number for the PureOne filter.

OP, do you have a manual or automatic?
PL14460 does not have an ADBV and the internal construction is sub-standard. On the other hand, it does have quite a lot of filter media area and the BPV pressure is actually correct.

The PL14610 has the ADBV, better internal construction, ample media area, and a high enough BPV pressure that it's offset by the increased media area. It's a better filter.

The 610 will fit at least all EJ25s and EJ20s. I can say that with confidence since the filter attachment area has not changed since the introduction of these engine series. I have no idea if it'll fit an EJ18 or EJ22 properly as, thankfully, I never have to deal with anything that old. In fact, the oil cooler mating area on the models with oil coolers just mimics the machining already on the block. I have about 200,000miles combined of using the 610 on our 2005 RS and 2006 2.5i. I have nearly a million miles total on that filter across a variety of different Subarus that I see for every single service at my shop. Not a single problem. Many problems the 460, though.

Last edited by williaty; 04-07-2012 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:44 AM   #20
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PL14660 does not have an ADBV and the internal construction is sub-standard. On the other hand, it does have quite a lot of filter media area and the BPV pressure is actually correct.

The PL14610 has the ADBV, better internal construction, ample media area, and a high enough BPV pressure that it's offset by the increased media area. It's a better filter.

The 610 will fit at least all EJ25s and EJ20s. I can say that with confidence since the filter attachment area has not changed since the introduction of these engine series. I have no idea if it'll fit an EJ18 or EJ22 properly as, thankfully, I never have to deal with anything that old. In fact, the oil cooler mating area on the models with oil coolers just mimics the machining already on the block. I have about 200,000miles combined of using the 610 on our 2005 RS and 2006 2.5i. I have nearly a million miles total on that filter across a variety of different Subarus that I see for every single service at my shop. Not a single problem. Many problems the 460, though.
I was talking about a PL14460 not a PL14660 so not sure why you are talking about that one? Besides, with a subaru like ours, we don't have to worry about an anti-drain back valve any way because the filter is in a vertical position under the engine. It's more so the bypass valve which is what we need to be aware of.

I might of got the PL14610 mixed up with the PL14612 so if that is the case, then the PL14460 and the PL14610 will fit the 05 imprezas and back to 95 or so. The PL14460 does have an ADBV within spec of the factory psi rating or close to it.

Last edited by subi400; 04-07-2012 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:45 AM   #21
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ADBV also prevents the oil galleries, which are above the filter, from draining back into the pan. It's relevant.

460 is what I meant, I'll edit that.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:19 AM   #22
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ManualOver,

You can either use the Purelator PureOne PL14610 or the PL14460 and you will be fine. You could also run a Bosch as well if you wanted. But, I would suggest the Purelator though
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:21 AM   #23
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You could also run a Bosch as well if you wanted.
Bosch is a carried-over Honda application. Minimal thread engagement, totally wrong BPV pressure.

I beat this horse so dead it got back up and started asking me if it could get back in front of the plow in order to stop the beating.

Only filters on the market that pass muster are the Purolator and the OEM. I don't really like the OEM one now that it's just cardboard inside, but we'll pretend Subaru knows what they're doing.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:25 AM   #24
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Bosch is a carried-over Honda application. Minimal thread engagement, totally wrong BPV pressure.

I beat this horse so dead it got back up and started asking me if it could get back in front of the plow in order to stop the beating.

Only filters on the market that pass muster are the Purolator and the OEM. I don't really like the OEM one now that it's just cardboard inside, but we'll pretend Subaru knows what they're doing.
I have wondered a little bit about the bosch one. It seems that the Purelator is our last resort if we want a good filter. Have you heard about the new Wix one that just came out which is really similar to a Purelator? It also has the close to correct psi for the relief valve.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:31 AM   #25
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I haven't gotten to autopsy the new Wix one yet, so I can't comment.

The reality of the situation is that 90% of the filter makers out there don't understand the Subaru requirements or have made a business decision to sell the wrong filters to us. We're unfortunate in that we have the same nipple threading and seat diameter as most of the Hondas. However, the projection of the nipple relative to the seat is different and the BPV pressure is HUGELY different. But Subarus are a tiny market. So most of the vendors either just don't serve the market or cross over a Honda application, even though it's not right, because the odds of them losing money in court on that are tiny. There's also a lot of ignorance or disbelief in the engineering departments. I spoke to some automotive engineers about this and they all were sure the flow numbers for the Subaru oil pumps were misprints. Even the "little" pump in the RS flows as much oil as the high-output racing pump for a SBC. The BPV pressure has to be so high because of that.
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