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Old 04-06-2012, 07:33 PM   #26
RexWagonWA
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From looking at your diagram, I think B84 is at the left side of the connector in your picture. It also is missing Pin 4.

From your documentation:You may have the wrong harness or ECU? Unfortunately no one can call DS-1. Or could the documentation not match your hardware?
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:08 PM   #27
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Great & informative thread! I'm looking into swapping out my ej205 for the jdm v7 into my 04' wagon. Having some trouble finding any jdm sources with good/reliable reputations though, mind sharing yours??
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:52 PM   #28
efiniluvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexWagonWA View Post
From looking at your diagram, I think B84 is at the left side of the connector in your picture. It also is missing Pin 4.

From your documentation:You may have the wrong harness or ECU? Unfortunately no one can call DS-1. Or could the documentation not match your hardware?

If you look at the pin out, the middle connect corresponds to 84 on the DS1 instruction. (Count the number of pins and it'll match). Unfortunately you cannot call DS1 but if you look at this picture, it's a match with the diagram:

Just make sure you're reading the pin-out with the plug facing you Now the pin 4 is in the correct orientation!!!

Like this:
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:05 PM   #29
efiniluvr
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I gave up trying to repin the ECU pins after almost destroying the first one. I used the small electronic precision type of flathead screwdriver. The pins are held up by those small tabs inside. So I moved on to drop the motor in.

After prepping the motor (swapping over some of the breather lines), Teeing the BPV line for boost gauge, temporarily using the EJ205 exhaust manifold (it was already tapped for EGT probe/gauge), and installed the flywheel and clutch, I decided to go ahead and attempt to drop the motor. No bueno.

The tranny is being supported by a floor jack so I can raise/lower the angle. I got the motor to line up all the bolt holes, but for some reason the two surfaces just won't get close enough to get the bolts to bite. I tried lowering tranny, raising motor and all other combinations and it seems that the bottom two bolts sticking out of the block is not in alignment with the hole and is holding it up. I even tried greasing the two bolts but it just won't go all the way. Any tips?

-Jeff
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:55 AM   #30
efiniluvr
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Thinking over the AVCS wiring debacle from today, it got me thinking (and through some NASIOC threads), if the V7 ECU does not look for the TGV's, why do I need to repin the TGV wires per DS1 instructions?

I got this AVCS wiring from someone who pulled it off of a V7 harness. If this is the same as the iaperformance wiring kit, do I still need to repin the TGV's? Shouldn't it just plug and play? I just add the wires at the ECU and at the passenger side block harness and I am good to go? The DS1 instruction says to repin the TGV pins and also repin the driver side (black) block harness.

Here is the wiring that I bought:




Thanks
-Jeff
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:12 AM   #31
kaotic WeRX
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hey man i have a few questions... where did you find this ej207 thread? and do you happen to know if the v7 was 5x100 or 5x114? reason i ask is because i plan to purchase a complete swap w/ tranny hubs axles, etc and wondering if i have to start sourcing some bbs. TIA also extremely nice write up!!!! how long have you been undergoing the swap for?
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:48 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
Thinking over the AVCS wiring debacle from today, it got me thinking (and through some NASIOC threads), if the V7 ECU does not look for the TGV's, why do I need to repin the TGV wires per DS1 instructions?

I got this AVCS wiring from someone who pulled it off of a V7 harness. If this is the same as the iaperformance wiring kit, do I still need to repin the TGV's? Shouldn't it just plug and play? I just add the wires at the ECU and at the passenger side block harness and I am good to go? The DS1 instruction says to repin the TGV pins and also repin the driver side (black) block harness.

Here is the wiring that I bought:




Thanks
-Jeff
No, you can leave the TGV out. I am using one of them for the charge temperature sensor on the throttle body. The USDM ECU doesn't mind either, if you disabled the codes.
The DS1 article was from a time when nobody new the answers..
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #33
efiniluvr
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Default JDM and USDM power steering fitment difference

I got quite a bit done, actually finished the swap. Sorry, I did not take any pics of the actual swap, but you can search if you need detail instructions on how to remove/install the motor elsewhere on the forum.

I wanted to share with you some of the differences regarding acessories. Here is the power steering line and reservoir difference.



As you can see from this pic, the power steering reservoir on the JDM outlet (steering rack side) is different from the USDM one. The JDM reservoir outlet angles downward whereas the USDM is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the reservoir. The EJ207 I got had the lines clipped at the rack, which necessitated me to use the USDM line, so I ended resuing the USDM reservoir.


Because I am reusing the the USDM power steering lines, the fitment at the pump was a bit of a headache. In this picture, the line (copper-colored) installed is the USDM. The aluminum-colored line is the JDM power steering line. As you can see, the length of the line where it bends down toward the pump is slightly different; the USDM is shorter, whereas the JDM one is a bit longer. In order to thread the USDM line onto the JDM power steering pump (which I had to because the line was cut), you have to push down while threading the bolt. The line bolts down but just with a bit of effort. No leaks....so far. The one thing I am concerned is that the line does exert a bit of pressure on the inlet, I'll keep an eye on it.

-Jeff
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #34
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Default Swap completed


Here is what the motor looks like (like thousands of other engine bay pics ). Here is what I have done since the last update

Hooking up all engine harness
Hooking up A/C line. The line near the top needs to be slightly bent to line up.
Hooked up throttle body cables, I reused the USDM one
Installed TMIC, BPV, and associated lines
Reinstall starter, don't forget the ground strap next to the power supply
Installed VF39 hose/restrictor pill assembly
Installed new radiator, fill up with coolant. I had to add a Tee to accomadate for the line from the coolant expansion tank (on top of the intake manifold) with the overflow line from the radiator filler neck.
Trim the Samco upper radiator hose (near top of engine), as the clearance between the hose and the fan blade was too close for comfort
Oil change (the EJ207 still had mad JDM oil in it along with a PIAA oil filter, yo!!)

Prior to starting, I pulled the Ignition Fuse (#11), located behind the coin tray box. I turn ignition on 5-6 times.
Reinstall fuse, and pressurize the fuel lines by turning ignition to ON (not engine start). I had installed a Walboro, and it is a bit louder than stock fuel pump.

With the turn of the key, the car started right up. Initially, I heard some "clacking, whiny sound" coming from the intake manifold. I shut off the engine right away, and readjusted the tension of the alternator belt, restart the motor but the noise was still present. Looking around, it sounded like it was coming from the PS pump, and it turned out that the PS pump was working a bit harder since the PS fluid did not fully circulate in the system. I added more fluid, as the reservoir level was decreasing from filling the rack, the lines and the pump itself, the noise gradually went away. It gave me quite a scare as thoughts of a bad motor ran through my mind.

I am still connected to the EJ205 ECU as I continue to deal with wiring up the AVCS.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:04 PM   #35
efiniluvr
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Default Pics


When you said the JDM Sti was big, that was an understatement. IT IS HUGE!!!


As you can see, the TMIC rubs against the AC line. I've placed a rubber piece in place until I find time to persuade the AC line.

Although I haven't wired up the AVCS, I started to route the wires.

Engine side. I fed it through the AC condensation discharge hole.


Cabin side


Sti V7 hoodscoop splitter. Note the additional splitter inside.


I also planned on changing out the stock hoodscoop splitter to match the JDM hoodscoop. As you can see, the opening and the bellow shows physical differece in size.


Sorry about the bad pic, I was in a hurry to make dinner for the family.
This is how the car has looked for the past 9 months, barely moving a few feet during that time. I am waiting to change out the clutch slave cylinder as I broke the seal during bleeding (that is another story) so the car can be driven. But at least the car started without any (additional) drama.

-Jeff
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:10 PM   #36
efiniluvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
No, you can leave the TGV out. I am using one of them for the charge temperature sensor on the throttle body. The USDM ECU doesn't mind either, if you disabled the codes.
The DS1 article was from a time when nobody new the answers..
Are you saying I don't have to repin the TGV wires at the ECU? I just have to add the 5 wires at the ECU, and at the passenger side harness correct? Do I still have to repin the driver side harness?

On a side note, I tried to add the wires to the ECU connector, but no matter how hard or at different angles, I cannot push them in. Any tips?

Thanks
-Jeff
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:19 PM   #37
25rsti
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Congrats on the install. Looks good and good luck on the rest.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:21 PM   #38
sk8boylou
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hey did you use the engine harness that comes with your ej207 or did you use the one for the ej205?
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:28 PM   #39
efiniluvr
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The EJ207 came with the engine harness (the one routed under the intake manifold), so I used the one that came with it. It is connected to the WRX bulkhead harness (the one on I think I just need to add the AVCS wires at the ECU and at the passenger side connector block to have functioning AVCS.

-Jeff
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:36 PM   #40
sk8boylou
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Awesome! Thank you and congrats on your swap. I just ordered my EJ207 V8 today!
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:45 PM   #41
25rsti
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Who you get it from?
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:54 PM   #42
sk8boylou
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Rob from JDM Racing Motors
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:59 PM   #43
Torquey
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great progress... looking forward to seeing working AVCS and review of the first spirited run!

What oil did u put in? IIRC, Clark Turner suggests running something light (i.e. Castrol Syntec 0w40)... due to the tight tolerances of the ej207.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:45 PM   #44
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
Are you saying I don't have to repin the TGV wires at the ECU? I just have to add the 5 wires at the ECU, and at the passenger side harness correct? Do I still have to repin the driver side harness?

On a side note, I tried to add the wires to the ECU connector, but no matter how hard or at different angles, I cannot push them in. Any tips?

Thanks
-Jeff
You have to add the AVCS on both sides, therefore you have to add conductors, or use existing conductors on both the driver and passenger side engine harness, if you haven't done so (I have not followed what you did).
I think the AVCS stayed the same with the EUDM and JDM EJ207. The EUDM Electrical manual for the 207 can be downloaded for free.

The DS1 situation was for people that did not have conductors for the AVCS and tried to find an answer to make this swap useable and cheap for everyone. You're one step ahead, with your dedicated harnesses and don't need to re-use the TGV pathways, for the purpose of AVCS, because this is what DS1 was doing, fom what I recall.

The TGV's don't overlap probably because the EUDM had both TGV and AVCS and they were assigned so they can all live together.

The only overlap is if you wire the autowash with an emissions control in the tank.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:56 PM   #45
25rsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8boylou View Post
Rob from JDM Racing Motors
Awesome! That's what I thought. He's the man.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:00 AM   #46
efiniluvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You have to add the AVCS on both sides, therefore you have to add conductors, or use existing conductors on both the driver and passenger side engine harness, if you haven't done so (I have not followed what you did).
I think the AVCS stayed the same with the EUDM and JDM EJ207. The EUDM Electrical manual for the 207 can be downloaded for free.

The DS1 situation was for people that did not have conductors for the AVCS and tried to find an answer to make this swap useable and cheap for everyone. You're one step ahead, with your dedicated harnesses and don't need to re-use the TGV pathways, for the purpose of AVCS, because this is what DS1 was doing, fom what I recall.

The TGV's don't overlap probably because the EUDM had both TGV and AVCS and they were assigned so they can all live together.

The only overlap is if you wire the autowash with an emissions control in the tank.
Thanks Vlad for the information. Before I proceed, I just want to confirm:

1) Given what I have in my hand, the shielded wires pulled from a JDM harness (see pics above), I simply add those wires to the same locations DS1 instructed. I do not need to repin the TGV wires that are already on the WRX bulkhead ECU connector (the V7 ECU doesn't read the TGV's therefore, no need to repin the WRX TGV wires). Correct?

2) I add the additional pins at the passenger side harness block, correct?

3) I repin the pins on the driver side harness block, correct?

4) Why are there 5 wires at the ECU, but only 4 at the passenger harness block? I see the additional one at the ECU is for Pin 14 AVCS Sensor (Shield Common Ground on the DS1 instruction).

As far as physically adding the pins at the ECU, do you have any tips on it? The task seems remedial, but was harder than I initially thought. I tried to push hard, but it would not budge. I stopped out of fear of breaking the pins themselves. Tips would be great.


Thanks
-Jeff
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:58 AM   #47
mike280
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just found your thread...

First.. Don't run the wires through that drain hose hole. too close to the downpipe, especially if you go aftermarket..

Use the main harness location and run it through there.. Basically towards the passenger side 8 inches or so.

more pin info to follow
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:50 AM   #48
efiniluvr
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Default Hiccups (#1)

After the swap, I let the car idle to get the air out of the coolant system. IT took quite a while for the fans to kick in, as the Koyo radiator is quite large and takes a bit more coolant. For the coolant, I used the Subaru coolant conditioner, and Peak Long life coolant, mixed ~50/50 with distilled water. Once I was confident all the air has been burped, I proceed to attempt to move the car out of neutral. With the car idling, I tried to shift the car into gear, initially first gear.

The shift lever however would not let me in. Tried reverse, same result. Poking around the forum, some threads:

Can't change gears when running
Clutch cylinder rod mating to pitch fork

So I tried the method outlined in the first thread and the car ended up stuck in first gear (I couldn't get the transmission out of first with the car off). Out of options I posted my own question: Motor Swapped, new clutch will not engage.

It turns out the throw out bearing wasn't sliding on the input shaft. Although it was greased, after reinstalling everything, I did not use the clutch fork to physically slide the TOB to verify smooth operation; it was stuck. Wiggling the fork and the TOB solved not only the clutch engagement but also the clutch pedal engagement which I had thought was due to bad clutch system bleeding.
Lesson learned: make sure to use the fork to slide the TOB on input shaft.

-Jeff
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:54 AM   #49
efiniluvr
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Default Hiccups (#2)

For now, I am still figuring out the AVCS wiring question until I get a more definitive answer. But let me go through some of the small issues/hiccups that I encountered getting the motor to run.

The whining sound I heard from the power steering pump wasn't just related to the belt alone. After readjusting the belt tension, the whining sound would reappear while turning the wheel. This sounds like either the pump itself is going out or there is air in the system. I found this thread regarding the power steering:

Power Steering How-To

The instruction outlined above is for flushing out the power steering system and replace with new fluid. It is from the FSM. I essentially have a completely dry system so I followed the instructions. While checking for leaks under the car, I noticed the hard line connection to the rack was leaking slightly and tighten it. I think this is what was allowing air back into the lines. Sure enough the air in the lines eventually bled out after two tries. FWIW, I am using the Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF for the power steering.
Lesson learned: Power steering system needs to be bled. Follow FSM instuctions and double check all fittings

-Jeff

Last edited by efiniluvr; 04-13-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:17 PM   #50
908subaroo
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Do you still have the old long block and if so would you be interested in selling it
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