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Old 04-08-2012, 11:41 PM   #226
makofoto
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You don't really need the sand/greased plates for making this final adjustment. Just Do It ... and check on your straight road.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:05 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder34

Then, when i get to a track, auto-x, canyon, you pop the hood and dial in some camber on the plates.
I forgot about this thread.

So just to make sure I understand, I can adjust camber for a track day and then set them back for dd duty without affecting toe?
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:46 AM   #228
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Adding Camber adds Toe-Out ... which is good to a point for AX, but you don't want too much for Track. For AX we would start with a bit of Toe-In for the street, and then when we slide the strut over for added camber, Toe would go to Toe-Out ... for better turn in. But it was easy to over do. From one end of the camber plate to the other would change your toe typically by over an INCH!

I had my Camber plate set diagonally so that I was also adding Caster. If I recall correctly, the amount we would move the strut in the camber plate was only about a 1/4 inch.

You really need to get a pyrometer to check tire temps and thus also tire pressures and alignment at the track. Typically you're striving to get even tire temps across the tire ... with the inside perhaps a few degree higher then center and outside. Having your tire temps even front to back shows that both ends of the car are sharing the load.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:55 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figgskzoo View Post
Earlier in this thread, a poster mentioned using two greased steel plates to allow the tire to pivot inward and outward with less resistance when adjusting the inner tie rods. I think if I'd done that, my steering wheel would be perfectly centered. But here's my idea: how about a thin layer of fine, dry sand on the garage floor under the tires, eh? I think that a million tiny 'bearings' will cause the tires to loose just enough grip to simulate the greased plates. I'll be re-stringing tomorrow, throwing down some sand, and posting my results.

Thoughts? Criticisms? Experiences?

TRASH BAGS ... ftw

(Cheap "turn plates" for cheap people, like me)
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:18 AM   #230
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Great Idea ... better then having to clean up the sand!
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:38 AM   #231
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Trash bags - nice... I can leave my push broom hanging up. Thanks for the feedback y'all!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:43 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makofoto
Adding Camber adds Toe-Out ... which is good to a point for AX, but you don't want too much for Track. For AX we would start with a bit of Toe-In for the street, and then when we slide the strut over for added camber, Toe would go to Toe-Out ... for better turn in. But it was easy to over do. From one end of the camber plate to the other would change your toe typically by over an INCH!

.
Ok i knew toe would change slightly as a function of reducing camber, I had no idea it would be that much. More importantly, will re-setting the camber after the event also reset the toe accurately? I can't decide if it's worth it to play with the camber, I'm not trying to pay for a full alignment after every time
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:41 PM   #233
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To center the steering wheel I moved both sides five facets toward driver's left.

Then...

Re-strung the car, stabilized the wheel as before, 'bagged' the tires, re-measured and moved the driver's side toe three facets out.

Perfectomundo! Stoked!

Not even going to bother taking it to the 'malignment' shop and having $70 removed from my wallet.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:27 AM   #234
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #235
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Default Alignment/tire wear question

Well I've just been put through the financial wringer, having to get new summer tires for my 2008 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport wagon because the old ones were shot after only about 30K miles. Just got the new tires put on at the tire place and got the four-wheel alignment in hopes that the new ones won't wear out so prematurely (they were shot on the inside edge).

The paper they handed back to me indicates the camber on the right rear tire is still not within specs -- it's -2.2 versus spec of -1.8 to -0.3. This is the same camber it was in the 'before' measurement. Shame on me for not really looking at the paper till after I got home; should have looked and asked questions right there.

The only other thing out of spec in the 'before' measurement was the 'steer ahead' -- it was .06; the after measurement is .01 (spec of + or - .05) so that's okay.

My questions: Any idea why they couldn't get the camber within specs on the right rear? Is this likely what caused the original tires to wear our so fast (I suspect yes)? Should I take it back to the tire place or to the dealer instead? And shouldn't the dealer have detected this when I brought the car in for preventative maintenance? Will the dealer put me through the financial wringer again? Never mind, I think I know the answer to the last question!

Thanks for any insights.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:23 PM   #236
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Does your car have rear camber adjustability?

(I'm not familiar w/ outbacks)
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:05 PM   #237
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I hate alinment shops so much. Such a big waste time. I just got back from finally finish my car up I went to get it done. And man it's always something they trying to pull. Just because there lazy and don't want to wrk. And your car isn't stock height and Wat not. So the car is better but not exellent and now the front the steering wheel isn't straight because they say my rack and pinion. And the rear now because my camber bolts arnt big enough to adjust when they did them before just fine. So 55 dollars to just get alittle better drive. Very pissed and wish I had more tools and space and money to do this my self. Shops are a joke and arnt good anymore like they used to be. It's always something
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:25 PM   #238
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You're going to the wrong place.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:40 PM   #239
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Ya I guess so. Right here were I live we got **** for shops. Gotta drive out to la or vally something. We're is a place that will actually fix and tell u the real things u need at then?
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:55 PM   #240
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Be happy you live in So. Cal. West End is the best but there's plenty of others.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:03 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Koch View Post
Well I've just been put through the financial wringer, having to get new summer tires for my 2008 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport wagon because the old ones were shot after only about 30K miles.

Should I take it back to the tire place or to the dealer instead? And shouldn't the dealer have detected this when I brought the car in for preventative maintenance?
30K on summer tires is about as good as it gets but I kinda doubt your Outback came with summers.

I wouldn't take it back to either if your weren't satisified the last time. I'd take it to an alignment shop. The factory spec is so wide ranging the dealer can send you off with the alignment out of whack.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:13 PM   #242
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I'll see what's up
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:49 PM   #243
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I recently installed STi struts with cobb racing springs on my WRX. I took it to get an alignment today and the guy was able to get 0 toe all around, but only -.4 camber in front. He said that was the max he could get it too. Is this normal? I would like somewhere between -1 to -2 in the front. The rear is nonadjustable and came in at around -1.5.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #244
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Any input?
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:41 PM   #245
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Go to a diff shop, see if they can get diff results
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:04 PM   #246
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Hey guys Im having trouble getting my alignment dialed in. I was told my Rear Right Wheel's Toe bolt isnt allowing me to get enough toe out but is only getting toe in. Its set at .66 at the moment.
Heres a printout of the alignment.

Any ideas whats causing the terrible toe? I just inspected the lateral links and couldnt visiually see any bends.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:47 AM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russ9127 View Post
I recently installed STi struts with cobb racing springs on my WRX. I took it to get an alignment today and the guy was able to get 0 toe all around, but only -.4 camber in front. He said that was the max he could get it too. Is this normal? I would like somewhere between -1 to -2 in the front. The rear is nonadjustable and came in at around -1.5.
Not sure if the 08+ cars are the same but in the previous years if you put sedan struts on wagons you lose negative camber.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:37 PM   #248
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Hi, my wheels are aligned as far a toe is concerned but one of my front wheels has alot more negative camber than the other three wheels.

I want to adjust this myself, I think it'll be easy to get it better than it currently is.. doesn't have to be perfect.

I sprayed the two nuts/bolts that connect the hub to the strut with penetrating oil and tried breaking the nut loose with a 2' breaking bar but won't budge.

Is is alright to use an air impact gun on these rusty bolts or am I asking for trouble?
When I get these loosened, are the bolts offset/cammed to allow adjustment by turning them, or are the strut holes notched to allow adjustment? I'm just not sure of the procedure.

Thanks

Last edited by brett192; 08-23-2012 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:16 PM   #249
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If you adjust the camber, it will affect the toe. With Subarus, because of the way the tie rods are positioned, increasing camber will give toe out, and vice versa. The amount of toe achieved by adding or removing camber is actually pretty substantial. I had almost 2 degrees of toe out after I maxed the front camber on my car using only the stock hardware.

In short, bring the car back to whoever aligned it and tell them they screwed up.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:23 PM   #250
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Oh dang, the previous owner had the car aligned before I bought the car last June so that's not possible.

I just bought four new tires on Monday and the store has a deal where you can get an alignment for half price with purchase of tires, so maybe they can give me a break.

Thanks
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