Cannot Install Alarm Viper 5901!!!!!!!!

[Sound_Fiend]

I AM GOING INSANE!!!!

i have a 2005 wrx 2.0l tourbo and i just got my new viper 5901 alarm and im trying to install it I have been on it for 19 hours straight and am seriously about to gas my gas and light it on fire i have tryed every connection and look at every forum out there and still wont work!!!.

Ok so I did manage to get the hood pin, all doors and trunk to set off the alarm also i can lock the doors also i have the unlock (once) for the driver door then unlock all if i push unlock the second time working. the shock sensor works.

I cannot get the remote start to work at all i have tryed using the wiring from this forum http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...alarm-sti.html

also i have used this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308992

No one is being specific on what exact wires to use and directly comparing them to there alarm system they are telling me where the wires one the vehicle do but not what wires i need to hook up from my alarm to the car.

specifically i am having trouble with the H3 harness i have used the (IWSTI) forum thread and wired it exactly like he said and i cannot use remote start.

No i have completely retaken the wires from the first location stated to install removed everything and reinstalled everything in the second forums location and STILL nothing. I am also soldering everything because i dont like t taps but it is making everything insanely hard.

My car is a 5 speed manual so i have to set the alarm to the manual mode i tried and nothing it gives me a remote start error every time. I have the neutral safety wire from the ecu and the Tach wire from the ecu both in correct locations and still nothing I also try to program the Tach my starting the car then in the first 5 seconds press the valet button and wait till its a solid blue flash but when i let go my turn signals flash once ???

PLEASE help me i need my car for school and work i need to know why it wont even attemp to crank over or want to enter remote start mode or whatever ?!?!?!

I have some pictures of my gross wiring i have been working with and i am a obsessed clean setup guy but this is killing me idk what i need to do.

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[speakerpimp]

When the remote start function is activated and the 2-way remote emits an error
tone; you have the ability to see what the cause of the no-start situation is by
counting the amount of flashes of the parking lights from the vehicle.
-5901 manual


So what exactly happens when you try to start? I'm not digging through a bunch of long posts, so tell me exactly what you did for tach.

[blessthekellen]

All i see is a mess of wiring so I'll just state what you need in order for this alarm/starter to work. These cars are honestly an hours worth of work and very easy to do as everything is located in the driver side part of the dash.


Constant power, ignition, accessory, starter.
Clutch bypass, e-brake, brake, park lights, door trigger, tach
hood pin (optional)
valet switch MUST BE HOOKED UP AND SWITCHED TO THE ON POSITION.

If you are doing tach and pressing the valet button once, releasing then pressing again and hearing one click, that means Tach has learned so yes that is correct.

How are you trying to set the vehicle up? This is the process:

Doors closed, foot on the brake pedal, lift ebrake up, release brake pedal, press unlock button, starter confirms vehicle is in neutral vehicle keeps running, open door, close door, press lock, vehicle shuts off and arms itself.

press the start button to test starter.

[Sound_Fiend]

Ok so i understand the flash codes if i try arming remote start in flashes my turn signals 7 times which means Timer mode/Turbo mode/ Manual mode error according to the manual. i have tried the sequence and no luck.

Exactly what happends when i try to remote start is that it just says remote start error but before i do all the button stuff i want to get the wires out of the way. Ok so according to the manual Of the alarm here is what i am using let me know if it sounds right.

Yes H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
No H3/2 RED/WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)
Yes H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Yes H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
Yes H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
No H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)
No H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)
No H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)
No H3/9 RED/BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)
H3/10 NC No Connection

I have connected H3/1 to Ignition wire (Black) on key switch harness, H3/3 I have connected to the accessory wire (Black/blue) on the key switch harness, Then I cut the Started wire (Black/Yellow) and i used H3/4 on the car side of wire and H3/5 on the key side.

I am assuming im missing some wires i need to use please let me know. also there are 2 manuals for the viper 5901 and one of them is incorrect.

http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008_08web.pdf INCORRECT

and i have this kind notice the new 18 pin harness and minus the h2 harness and the two 5 pin connectors in the first manual. http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/701...stallguide.jpg

[big_mac127]

I install these for a living, if you would like to call or text me feel free 509-378-0575. There are too many things to check to try to attempt trouble shooting over the forum.

[first suby 2010]

At the very least...

Originally Posted by Sound_Fiend

Yes H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
No H3/2 RED/WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO CONSTANT POWER
Yes H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Yes H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
Yes H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
No H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO CONSTANT POWER
No H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)
No H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)
No H3/9 RED/BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO CONSTANT POWER
H3/10 NC No Connection

[Sound_Fiend]

Ok so thanks to big_mac I found out i was missing the accessory/started main relay wire. so i did that and reconnected everything and omg its amazing lol. Also i will be posting pictures of what i did and my cable managment.

Working all night



Still working



Gross



ewww




Better



routing





used thick peaces of plastic between solder points on heavy guage wire then electrical tape.

[Aaron'z 2.5RS]

Glad you finally got it...

I've been doing car audio well over 15yrs now and neve have I attempted an alarm... just not my thing...

One thing though, I could pull your center console trim in 5sec and have your alarm brain out in the parking lot in under 60sec..

If someone is going for your stereo, they could too...

[big_mac127]

Glad I could help

[blessthekellen]

Haha I feel ya Aaron'z, I absolutely hate doing alarm/starters. Some newer vehicles where everything runs on data isn't bad, but they are honestly just more of a headache than anything.

Kudos for finishing up the install anyways!

[CSVT_2004]

Originally Posted by blessthekellen

Haha I feel ya Aaron'z, I absolutely hate doing alarm/starters. Some newer vehicles where everything runs on data isn't bad, but they are honestly just more of a headache than anything.

Kudos for finishing up the install anyways!

Did you not see the section in the manual that says NOT to attach the brain to solid parts of the vehicle? Page 9.

➢ Doubleguard shock sensor
Since the shock sensor is built into the main unit, be sure to keep the shock sensor
performance in mind when deciding on a location for the main unit.
Note: In many vehicles, fastening the main unit (the brain) to a steering column
or screwing it to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the
vehicle.

[rallyblue04]

Have you tried grounding out the clutch sensor. Sometimes neutral safety switches can be tricky so I just tripped my clutch sensor.

[Sound_Fiend]

Well i would think its logical to mount it to something metal like the frame because that would transfer vibrations the best. Wouldn't it? And i used the negative ground starter output to bypass my clutch so it would only bypass it when its cranking. Works great.

[thedaddyb]

Originally Posted by Sound_Fiend

Well i would think its logical to mount it to something metal like the frame because that would transfer vibrations the best. Wouldn't it? And i used the negative ground starter output to bypass my clutch so it would only bypass it when its cranking. Works great.

Yeah that's how they always explained to install their older generation shock sensors that were external. In all honesty, the onboard shock sensor on these units are junk. I've seen quite a few of them fail. Also, you probably won't have much success with it working where you installed it.

I install a lot of the brain units behind the cluster and the shock sensor doesn't do much good there either.

You may want to think about grabbing a 504d external sensor. It will plug into the mux port on the brain and you can route it to a better location. It's a part I usually recommend

[CSVT_2004]

Originally Posted by Sound_Fiend

Well i would think its logical to mount it to something metal like the frame because that would transfer vibrations the best. Wouldn't it? And i used the negative ground starter output to bypass my clutch so it would only bypass it when its cranking. Works great.

Negative. Loose things like wire/loom work best for sensitivity. The solid body structure takes more force to vibrate.

Also in regard to your clutch bypass, I'd recommend diode isolating the negative starter output if you have not done so already.

[Sound_Fiend]

ok ya i was thinking of a external shock sensor anyways cus even with the sensitivity to max i have to hit my door hard so it goes off and why would i diod isolate the clutch bypass? what current would come back threw it?

[thedaddyb]

Originally Posted by Sound_Fiend

ok ya i was thinking of a external shock sensor anyways cus even with the sensitivity to max i have to hit my door hard so it goes off and why would i diod isolate the clutch bypass? what current would come back threw it?

DEI units are notorious for back-feeding current through their negative ignition outputs into their positive counterparts. Almost acting like an activation wire.

So pressing the clutch could actually grind the starter wire while the car is running.

[CSVT_2004]

Originally Posted by Sound_Fiend

ok ya i was thinking of a external shock sensor anyways cus even with the sensitivity to max i have to hit my door hard so it goes off and why would i diod isolate the clutch bypass? what current would come back threw it?

Originally Posted by thedaddyb

DEI units are notorious for back-feeding current through their negative ignition outputs into their positive counterparts. Almost acting like an activation wire.

So pressing the clutch could actually grind the starter wire while the car is running.

In reality that negative output is part of the negative trigger that activates it's positive counter part. THere is potential for the positive to activate if the negative output gets a negative sent to it. IE pushing your clutch in could grind starter, or start car accidentally. It's always a GOOD idea to diode isolate negative outputs and inputs depending on the scenario. This is one of them. Better to be safe than sorry.

[jegomes]

Yep... that one has bitten me once or twice... DEI does not diode isolate their "2nd" wires... not like its a bad thing just good to keep in mind when your working on them...

[Sound_Fiend]

ok cool thanks