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Old 04-09-2012, 04:23 PM   #1
promted
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Default Super Stuck Bolt On Transmission!!!

I am completely frustrated and under the mercy of the wise NASIOC sages. I have been in the process of pulling my transmission on my '02 WRX but have gotten stuck on the STUPIDEST little thing! I have not for the life of me been able to break the stupid 10mm hex plug that covers the pin that holds the clutch fork to the transmission casing. I tried breaker bars, tons of pressure, I finally pulled off my steering linkage so I could get an impact in there, all the while soaking with PB blaster, (I even pulled out the torch for a while), but after much frustration and work, instead of loosening the bolt, it has just started stripping it instead. I gave up on the bolt finally and started going through the dust cover to try and free the throwout bearing. That has proven unsuccessful as well. At first I tried to pop it off by twisting a screwdriver then pushing the tranny back, but I don't think I can get the bearing close enough to the washer to enable the bearing to pop free. Then I thought maybe if I could break off all the pins holding the throwout bearing on, I could get it to pop off. Still no luck. My main concern is, I don't want to muff up my transmission casing by beating the crap out of the support brackets that hold the pin in place...I already feel, like I'm loosening things up in there. Does anyone have any ideas????

[IMG]<a href="http://s1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh605/promted/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0635.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh605/promted/IMG_0635.jpg" border="0" alt="trans cracked"></a>[/IMG]

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Old 04-09-2012, 04:29 PM   #2
promted
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Working photos...





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Old 04-09-2012, 04:31 PM   #3
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here is the gun I was trying to use as well...

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Old 04-09-2012, 04:39 PM   #4
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use heat, also use a breaker bar and a NEW hex socket if you want better odds at getting it out without stripping

Last edited by bettner12; 04-09-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:28 PM   #5
promted
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I did all of those things. Torched bolt, no go, torched casing, no go, and I was using a brand new socket. Do you guys think this gun is powerful enough? I've never met a bolt that I haven't been able to get with air tools... It's not reverse threaded is it
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:58 PM   #6
n2oiroc
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that impact is middle of the road, there are much stronger. list your location, maybe someone local has a better impact.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:13 PM   #7
promted
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Logan, Utah
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:26 PM   #8
z
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i would let the PB blaster soak in for a day or so. Did you spray and then immediately try to remove the bolt or did you let it sit?

Maybe give it a few more shots and let it soak in for a while.

My buddy had a penetrating oil by toyota that he swears is better than pb blaster by the way. I can't say for sure but maybe worth a shot.

edit:

this came up in a quick search:

http://www.yotatech.com/f123/penetra...arison-193496/

Quote:

Intesting stuff. Certainly helps me save money.

> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested
> penetrants for break out
> torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are
> below, as
> forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist,
> Bud Baker.

> *Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's
> Workshop" magazine comparison
> test.
> They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
> penetrants with
> the control being the torque required to remove the
> nut from a
> "scientifically rusted" environment.*

> Penetrating oil ..... Average load
> None ..................... 516 pounds
> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
> PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench .... 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds


> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
> of 50 - 50 automatic
> transmission fluid and acetone.*
> *Note the "home brew" was better than any
> commercial product in this one
> particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a
> batch and we all
> now use it with equally good results.
Note also that
> "Liquid Wrench" is
> about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of
> the price.
> Your experience may vary, etc., etc.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:03 PM   #9
promted
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Whoa, way helpful list! Ya, I've been letting things soak for a few hours. I just threw some liquid wrench on this time since it seems to be twice as good as pb blaster. Every little bit will help with this one...
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:16 PM   #10
jziegler
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You are turning it the correct way right?
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:17 PM   #11
z
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I would make sure the engine and trans are properly mated back up too... hopefully having it pushed apart slightly isn't causing the pivot rod to put any pressure on that cover bolt and keeping it from moving freely.

In your case, I would probably get the ATF and Acetone and see if that help. You may also want to try to pump some in from the inside, where the clutch fork boot is. Maybe you could hit it using a transfer pump with a small tube or something. Worth a shot to keep from stripping that thing out and probably causing even more headaches. It may have a lot of friction material dust caked up on the inside from the clutch disk that's keeping it from freeing up. But I would hit it with the ATF/Acetone from both sides, and let it sit for a bit and then maybe give it a shot.

Good luck and let us know if it works out!

*oh and in reading that thread (and a couple of others that site the same list), sounds like that homebrew mix will melt some plastics so I would work fast if you put it in a plastic bottle, lol.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:06 AM   #12
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i have always had a can of liquid wrench around and started using the acetone/atf after reading the above noted article

throw the pb blaster away
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:30 AM   #13
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CRC Freeze off is also great stuff, but we tend to use straight ATF around our shop.

You're not putting enough torque to it. You need a bigger bar.

Tony
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:51 PM   #14
z
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Any luck?
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:51 PM   #15
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Undo the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole. That will let you pull the trans with the pressure plate still attached to the throwout bearing. Once it's out on the ground you have much better access to get the plug out.

Use a oxy/acetelyne torch to heat the plug up. You want it to heat quicker than the metal around it. While it's still hot, unthread it.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:17 PM   #16
promted
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Well I tried that crazy ATF, Acetone, magic potion and let it soak for a day while throwing more on every few hours. Gave it another try and still no luck By this time it was getting pretty stripped so I did something kind of rash and notched the bolt to try and give myself more leverage on the outer edges. After that failed I was just about ready to put it all back together and take it to some shop to see if they could get it when I thought I would try one more thing... I was able to get a big enough gap on the tranny to fit a wrench down to lock onto the bolts holding down my pressure plate. I wedged a random bolt on the left side teeth of my flywheel to keep that from spinning, (since I was installing a new flywheel, I didn't worry about marring the teeth a bit). So after a slow process of breaking a bolt and readjusting my wedged bolt and dropping about a dozen bolts down my casing, I was able to free my clutch then pull my tranny off with my TOB and pressure plate still attached!!!!!!!! I can't even tell you how happy that made me!! Now I can easily drill the bolt out and re tap it or whatever. I'm just glad to have the thing off.







The ol' skateboard method



The new one.

I'll post again when satan's bolt is out.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:25 PM   #17
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Oh, I also wanted to mention that I did this all by myself with just a floor jack. I'm not a huge guy either, only 135 lbs. So for those guys wondering if they can tackle this one solo, it really isn't bad at all, (minus a bolt from hell). I propped a floor jack near the back of the tranny to prop it up and get it as straight as possible, then it was just a matter of pushing on the jack, and going under and pulling, and then when I had a big enough gap, I wedged a 2x4 in-between my engine and tranny to get a little more leverage. On a side note, I didn't want the transmission to come tumbling down to the concrete so I propped some more 2x4's through my wheel well to angle them down and make a catch for the front of the tranny. It worked great! Then I just got under and lowered it onto a skateboard. I'm sure it's WAY easier with more people, but definitely do able with one guy.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:12 PM   #18
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Glad to hear you got it out, although not exactly the way you planned.

Sounds like you did what WoodsWagon was telling you to do in the post before your last update. (except undo the PP bolts by reaching through the hole where the starter goes instead of through the small gap between the engine and trans like you did) Not sure which would have been easier but at least it's out!
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:20 PM   #19
promted
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PS, thanks WoodsWagon. That's exactly what I needed to do, just saw that post a little to late I'll definitely try out the torch technique.
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:22 PM   #20
ILoveSue
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So creative. Nice
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:12 PM   #21
Paul
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if you ever find yourself in the spot again you can pop the TOB off with a screwdriver thru the dust cover. I know you said you tired that and it can be a PITA but Ive done it in the past pretty easily.
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:26 AM   #22
promted
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So, here's the damage...



Having the tranny out helped me get a better notch on it, then some more pounding with the air gun got it out.

And here's the funniest part of it all... I ended up reusing it The only dealership that had one was 2 hours away and to have it shipped, would have totaled $25 or so. Not worth it, plus the damage didn't affect it's functionality. Maybe I'll pick up a new one later but for now I'll just deal with an ugly bolt.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:57 PM   #23
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Please tell me you at least used anti-seize on it so you can get it out to replace it in the future.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:08 PM   #24
promted
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Haha, ya I did. But it was on way too tight the first time. I know this because when I notched it, I hit my case a little, and when I tightened the bolt back to the appropriate torque, there was about 1/2" to go before lining the notch up. I bet someone before me pulled the transmission once before and just threw that bolt on with an impact on full power and let it pound itself to death. Glad it finally came out though.
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