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Old 04-01-2012, 12:42 AM   #926
thesniperz
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hahaah! nice clues! lol
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:34 AM   #927
2010 WRX Limited
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Just got my new gauges in today. I went with the AEMs because I can plug them directly into my laptop via USB for logging/tuning. I think they look pretty sick too. They have a cool needle sweep feature on startup and the needles around the edges change colour from green to yellow to red for danger.



Next: A windshield that doesn't look like I was in a gunfight.

edit: apparently I can't read and I put this in the wrong thread. whatever.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:27 AM   #928
alcoolaid
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nice! easy to see!
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:00 PM   #929
alexinvancouver
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i googled FEAL and couldn't find it =o(
where can i get the info about them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mctee View Post
Dale's installed my Feal package on my '10 STi last Friday!
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:50 PM   #930
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:28 PM   #931
minifreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedXj View Post
My first impression after only a few commutes to work is that they take imperfections in the road better than my rce yellows did, my ashtray full of change doesnt rattle on the same bumps it used to.
Part of that was due to the WRX struts being under-dampened for the RCE. The RCE are designed to pair with STi/Koni inserts.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:35 PM   #932
alexinvancouver
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thanks =o)
they don't make coilovers for 01 impreza?
also i don't think they make gravel specs dumpers
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:19 PM   #933
Studebaker83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 WRX Limited View Post
Just got my new gauges in today. I went with the AEMs because I can plug them directly into my laptop via USB for logging/tuning. I think they look pretty sick too. They have a cool needle sweep feature on startup and the needles around the edges change colour from green to yellow to red for danger.



Next: A windshield that doesn't look like I was in a gunfight.

edit: apparently I can't read and I put this in the wrong thread. whatever.
Looking good James. 9.0L/100Km that is pretty good fuel economy. Do you do lots of highway driving?
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:56 PM   #934
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Ya I do a lot of highway driving. I also drive pretty slow 99% of the time.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:50 PM   #935
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Alright, I think I've finally done something that warrants a post in this thread... Suspension swap! Only done the left rear corner for the time being, as it took me three hours to do just that, but I figured I'd post up pictures anyways... I'll do the other side tomorrow, and the fronts in a couple weeks when I get some more stuff organized.

And now, pictures!


Pre-swap:




Pre-swap close-up, 14" of clearance between the center of the hub and the top of the wheel well:




Post-swap:




Post-swap close-up, almost 17" between the hub and top of the wheel well:




From 14" to almost 17"! That's way more than I anticipated... I expected one or two at the most. Still, I'm not complaining. I've also done just the one side, so part of it might be due to the car sitting at an angle... I'll find out tomorrow what the actual increase is when I do the other side.

And, for a taste of what's coming in a few weeks, once I start doing the brakes...


'04 STi Sedan Pink Links:

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Old 04-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #936
Zefy
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what did you put in? forester or something? After a few days it will settle down so the change won't be as huge.

One of the reasons you may have had trouble is because of the other side. The swaybar (does you car have a RSB...?) stops the suspension from drooping enough to fit in the new strut/spring. I also had quite the hold up after I figured it out and unbolted the other strut. Then everything went in with relative ease.

Another note on swaybars, if you plan on using the stocker, it won't work with those lateral links. You will need the accompanying sti RSB and endlinks which shouldn't be hard to find but still... Oh and your stock axles won't be long enough for those lateral links. Especially with that 'lift'. Ask me how I know...

looking good so far though!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #937
pope_face
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Thanks Zefy... I appreciate you sending me link for slotting the towers, it went smoothly (for the most part).

And yeah, '99 Forester L struts/springs, off jchretien's car... I actually unbolted the sway bar bushing from the bracket to let the suspension droop down a bit further, but part of the reason it took so long was that the bolts at the bottom of the strut were pretty stubborn, and I had an issue lining up the holes once the new strut was in. Besides, I was taking my sweet time.

Are you sure the original swaybar won't work, even if I get new brackets? I was hoping to keep it for the time being, but I suppose if I have to I'll track down a new one. Shame to hear about the axles not working though... The links are only 5mm wider, so Jason figured there should be enough play in them even with the lift. Then again, I was only expecting the lift to be about 1", so maybe I'm wrong...
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:55 PM   #938
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Big install over the last two weeks, lucky enough to be able to use a shop and have a good mechanic to help! full 6spd drivetrain with 4/2 pots (V4 rear hubs), catted 3" DP to custom 3" resonatorless midpipe to stock axle back. as well as lat links, trailing links with new bushings, STI control arms with aftermarket bushings and an ALK and new ball joints... needless to say my car feels TIGHT!!





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Old 04-10-2012, 01:51 AM   #939
alcoolaid
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nice how does it feel when you're in 5th and you can pull down to 6th? haha
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:54 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcoolaid View Post
nice how does it feel when you're in 5th and you can pull down to 6th? haha
lol haven't been on the highway yet but did try 6th once, bit odd feeling at first.. didn't get to drive much today after working on it due to having to finish a paper Still have to install my DCCD pro also.. the suspension changes feel amazing though... off to dales for an alignment in the next week or two to get it totally dialed in..
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:02 AM   #941
Zefy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pope_face View Post
Thanks Zefy... I appreciate you sending me link for slotting the towers, it went smoothly (for the most part).

And yeah, '99 Forester L struts/springs, off jchretien's car... I actually unbolted the sway bar bushing from the bracket to let the suspension droop down a bit further, but part of the reason it took so long was that the bolts at the bottom of the strut were pretty stubborn, and I had an issue lining up the holes once the new strut was in. Besides, I was taking my sweet time.

Are you sure the original swaybar won't work, even if I get new brackets? I was hoping to keep it for the time being, but I suppose if I have to I'll track down a new one. Shame to hear about the axles not working though... The links are only 5mm wider, so Jason figured there should be enough play in them even with the lift. Then again, I was only expecting the lift to be about 1", so maybe I'm wrong...
I've never been one to doubt Jason, but as somebody that has done it, and measured it, the difference is actually 10mm per side. I used wrx lateral links. 04 sti should be the same except for the different swaybar mounting bracket. I know 05+ aluminum links are an additional 5mm (total 15mm per side compared to GC/GF). I'm pretty sure those pinks are the same as 04 sti in length (so 10mm per side longer). I've heard of some people that didn't have problems with axles popping out but I think those people ran fairly low cars. I did have my axle pop out once before but I can't remember if I had put the wrx axles in at that point.

pic to show the difference. Note the tire used to be centered on the mudflap prior to the swap... Definitely more than 5mm...



and just to confirm:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2071116

By new brackets for the swaybar, do you mean endlinks? The sti doesn't use the "C" shaped endlinks so unless you run those lateral links upside down there is no possible way of using the stock endlinks. You MIGHT be able to get sti endlinks and bung them unto your swaybar and make it work but I have no idea as I never did that. Other option would be to use run without a swaybar in the rear for a while until you find an sti bar. I actually know somebody with an 07 bar w/ endlinks if you're interested. I have no idea if it will actually bolt on to your car or not besides just the endlinks. You'll have to do some research.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:50 AM   #942
RE3Rotor
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I had to swap out my RSB mounting brackets to the STi ones when I lowered my Foz. The lowered suspension snapped one bracket 5 minutes after I have the WRX suspension in there. My guess is you will have to do the reverse and find taller mounting brackets off the Foz. Or just leave the sway bars disconnected. You get more vertical articulation that way and is better for off-roading.

Just like what this guy...


...does with his Foz.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:40 AM   #943
pope_face
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Zefy: Sorry, I did mean endlinks... I was thinking about the rest of the stuff that I have ready for the swap, and that includes the taller Legacy Outback swaybar brackets, so I got the names switched around in my head.

However, you're right, I couldn't use C-style endlinks with these lateral links because they're reinforced on the sides of the endlink mount, so I wouldn't be able to clear the side plates with the endlink anyway. Having the endlink mounts on top of the lateral link is actually a good thing for me, as I'd rather have as little as possible hanging down below the car... But, in that case, wouldn't it be possible to just fabricate a pair of endlinks using parts from McMaster-Carr? I'm planning on doing that in the front anyway, as I'm not dropping the subframe, and I want to return the swaybar to roughly stock height. I suspect that, because the length changes, I can bolt the endlink to the inboard side of the mount on the lateral link, rather than the outboard side of the stock lateral link (I think that's how it's currently mounted). That should let me keep the stock swaybar (at least for the time being) while still adjusting for the extra distance.

And thanks for that link... I saw it before, and promptly forgot about it. When I asked Jason, he said a 5mm change per side, so I went with that. As far as I know though, these are actual '04 STi pinks. Shame about the axles though... I guess I may have to look into getting some STi ones, but why do I have the feeling they won't be cheap?

RE3Rotor: I actually have the taller brackets off a Legacy Outback... I picked those up along with the trailing arm brackets to move the hub back to the center of the wheel well. And yeah, I am lifting the car to get more ground clearance for a bit of offroading, but I don't want it to drive like a boat on the road, so I'm going to keep my endlinks attached, for the most part. I might try to figure out some way to do a "quick disconnect" or something on one side, so I can get the extra articulation if I need it, but it'll mostly be used on-road and some minor trails. BTW, that's Blue Fox's car, isn't it? I was up on the Forester forums back when I was looking for my car, and his was definitely my favourite... I'm still taking some of my inspiration from it (like the bedliner on the bumpers/lower panels).
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:32 PM   #944
Zefy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pope_face View Post
Zefy: Sorry, I did mean endlinks... I was thinking about the rest of the stuff that I have ready for the swap, and that includes the taller Legacy Outback swaybar brackets, so I got the names switched around in my head.

However, you're right, I couldn't use C-style endlinks with these lateral links because they're reinforced on the sides of the endlink mount, so I wouldn't be able to clear the side plates with the endlink anyway. Having the endlink mounts on top of the lateral link is actually a good thing for me, as I'd rather have as little as possible hanging down below the car... But, in that case, wouldn't it be possible to just fabricate a pair of endlinks using parts from McMaster-Carr? I'm planning on doing that in the front anyway, as I'm not dropping the subframe, and I want to return the swaybar to roughly stock height. I suspect that, because the length changes, I can bolt the endlink to the inboard side of the mount on the lateral link, rather than the outboard side of the stock lateral link (I think that's how it's currently mounted). That should let me keep the stock swaybar (at least for the time being) while still adjusting for the extra distance.

And thanks for that link... I saw it before, and promptly forgot about it. When I asked Jason, he said a 5mm change per side, so I went with that. As far as I know though, these are actual '04 STi pinks. Shame about the axles though... I guess I may have to look into getting some STi ones, but why do I have the feeling they won't be cheap?
Yup you could make endlinks. mcmaster won't ship to canada though so it's easier if you order from somewhere else like midwest control. Typically a little cheaper too...

sti axles won't work. You need the matching diff and hubs for sti stuff. You need GD sedan axles (wrx, 2.5rs, 2.5i...) for them to work properly. I'm also unsure when they changed the rear axle style... Does your axles slide into the diff or is there roll pins like the front? I would think you have axles that slide in but I'm not sure.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #945
pope_face
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I have access to a PO Box in Point Roberts, so I'll see if they'll ship out there...

As for the axles, I haven't checked yet, but thanks for the info... I don't know what you mean by roll pins, but I assume the difference is whether the axle has a male or female end on the differential side, correct? I haven't checked yet... Is there an easy way to check from the outside, or do I actually have to pull the axle to see?
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:58 PM   #946
Zefy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pope_face View Post
I have access to a PO Box in Point Roberts, so I'll see if they'll ship out there...

As for the axles, I haven't checked yet, but thanks for the info... I don't know what you mean by roll pins, but I assume the difference is whether the axle has a male or female end on the differential side, correct? I haven't checked yet... Is there an easy way to check from the outside, or do I actually have to pull the axle to see?
yes you can tell from the outside. See if it has rollpins...



The older rear diffs use these. I know the first gen legacy's and prior had this. Unsure when the change was...
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:05 PM   #947
pope_face
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Awesome, thanks a lot Zefy... You've been a huge help with this. I'll have to buy you a beer at a Wings meet one of these days (assuming I ever get around to going to another one...).
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:10 PM   #948
Zefy
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Originally Posted by pope_face View Post
Awesome, thanks a lot Zefy... You've been a huge help with this. I'll have to buy you a beer at a Wings meet one of these days (assuming I ever get around to going to another one...).
haha no worries. Good luck with the build!
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:20 PM   #949
pope_face
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Alright, managed to get the right rear strut put in today... Not as much of a lift this time, from about 15" to 16 1/2". The car looks like it's a bit crooked, but I think it's sitting on uneven ground, and the rear swaybar is disconnected, so it might be "articulated" more than usual...








I like the extra height though, I think it looks good... Those of you with a keen eye may notice another change too.

Zefy: I think I've got the axles that slide in, as I didn't see any roll pins... I got under the car to check, but didn't see anything that looked like it. I guess now I need to figure out what axles I need... If all GD sedan axles are wider than the wagon, I'll try to grab those. Not sure if there's a difference in price vs the RS and WRX ones though, but I guess I'll find out.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:31 PM   #950
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the pins are only in the front which are for female front axles. Some years don't have it though. male front axles don't had the pin and pull right out from the tranny. the rear axles going into the rear diff do not have those, they are male axles.

Last edited by iht; 04-10-2012 at 11:36 PM.
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