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Old 04-11-2012, 02:15 PM   #1
efiniluvr
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Member#: 107170
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 ver 7 EJ207 WRX
WRB

Default Motor swapped, new clutch will not engage: FIXED

I installed a new Exedy OEM (KSB03 from Amazon) when the motor was out. Everything was buttoned up. Newly resurfaced flywheel, new pilot bearing, installed the disc (flush side against flywheel, with the engraving "T/M side" facing the tranny), used alignment tool, then installed the clutch pressure plate. I then snapped the greased throw out bearing onto the pressure plate, engaged the clutch fork into the two fingers, and dropped the motor in.

With the car OFF, the transmission allows me to select all the gears without the clutched engaged. With the clutch depressed, I start the car and it idles fine in neutral. However with the car idling, I cannot engage any gears if I try to engage the clutch. After searching, I found this thread Can't change gears when running. So I decided to give it a try. With the car off, I put the transmission in first gear. Start car and sure enough the car lurches forward just like the other thread stated. I tried it a few times, and then shuts the car off with the car in first gear. Now the tranny is stuck in first and I can't disengage the gear.

I bled the slave cylinder, and then replace it due to busted seal. I used the vacuum bleeding method. The clutch pedal stays down after depressing it, but I can feel the hydraulic pressure as it has about 2 in of pressure if I fully depress it to the floor. I will try to bleed (for the umpteenth time) the system again.

What could cause the engagement problem? Is this a "stuck clutch"? What would cause the clutch to be stuck? Or does this have anything to do with the hydraulic not providing enough pressure to push the throw out bearing? I will look down the clutch fork hole to verify it is still engaged to the TOB.


I would hate to have to pull the motor again....
Thanks
-Jeff
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Last edited by efiniluvr; 04-11-2012 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:59 PM   #2
FXTRunner
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Location: NW Burps Chicago
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05 Forester
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Sounds similar to my engine swap fun.
Did you remove the slave cylinder and compress the pin in with a c-clamp then bleed it while the bleeder valve was kept as the highest part on the slave? This made the difference for me. I bled mine twice THAN read the manual to find the proper method. :-) Oh by the way, I did pull my motor a second time before i figured this out. LOL

I suggest getting another pair of hands to help bleed. Do it the old fashion way too. Use the pedal, be sure whoever is pushing on the pedal gives it some pumps then holds the pedal down while you relieve the bleeder. This worked best. If the pedal stays down towards the floor, reach down and pull it up. Should only have to do it once or twice before it comes back up by itself.

Last edited by FXTRunner; 04-11-2012 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:37 PM   #3
efiniluvr
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2002 ver 7 EJ207 WRX
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Update: Fixed, easily for once

Took off the TMIC to gain access to the clutch fork hole. Released the clutch pedal to release the pressure off the slave cylinder. Once depressurized, I looked in and wiggled the fork. Fork was somewhat stuck, but with a bit more force, I was able to slide the throw out bearing. Reconnected the slave cylinder onto the fork and checked the clutch pedal. Voila, not only did my clutch pedal regain the entire travel, pressurized, but I was able to disengage the transmission and take the car out of gear!!!

Reinstalled everything and crossed my finger before I turned the key. Car starts up and now the transmission shift perfectly. Drove around the block and everything is back to normal. What a feeling, not being able to drive the Subie for the last 9 months.

Conclusion: Make sure your throw out bearing slides smoothly before you finish up your swap or bleeding your clutch hydraulics.

-Jeff
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:10 PM   #4
drewmob
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Pump the clutch pedal at least 50 times before you try anything.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:58 AM   #5
Dan707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FXTRunner View Post
Sounds similar to my engine swap fun.
Did you remove the slave cylinder and compress the pin in with a c-clamp then bleed it while the bleeder valve was kept as the highest part on the slave? This made the difference for me. I bled mine twice THAN read the manual to find the proper method. :-) Oh by the way, I did pull my motor a second time before i figured this out. LOL

I suggest getting another pair of hands to help bleed. Do it the old fashion way too. Use the pedal, be sure whoever is pushing on the pedal gives it some pumps then holds the pedal down while you relieve the bleeder. This worked best. If the pedal stays down towards the floor, reach down and pull it up. Should only have to do it once or twice before it comes back up by itself.
Hi I'm having same issue just did new clutch kit install last sunday and engagement is a bit hard, we did bleed the clutch but the clutch pedal was staying down.
FXTRunner can you please some more details about the way you bleed it? I'm lost 'Did you remove the slave cylinder and compress the pin in with a c-clamp then bleed it while the bleeder valve was kept as the highest part on the slave?"

I have 1999 jdm STi Ra.
Thanks in advance,

Dan
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:31 AM   #6
FXTRunner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan707 View Post
Hi I'm having same issue just did new clutch kit install last sunday and engagement is a bit hard, we did bleed the clutch but the clutch pedal was staying down.
FXTRunner can you please some more details about the way you bleed it? I'm lost 'Did you remove the slave cylinder and compress the pin in with a c-clamp then bleed it while the bleeder valve was kept as the highest part on the slave?"

I have 1999 jdm STi Ra.
Thanks in advance,

Dan
Yes, the cylinder needs to be removed, then use a c-clamp to keep the pin in place. I compressed it all the way down. Took some talent for the person holding it with the c-clamp to open and close bleeder but doesn't take long to bleed the air out. Watch the fluid level, as it goes down quickly.

When you say engagement is hard do you mean pushing the pedal is difficult? If you have air in the system the pin will hardly move and the pedal feel is really soft.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:25 PM   #7
Dan707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FXTRunner View Post
Yes, the cylinder needs to be removed, then use a c-clamp to keep the pin in place. I compressed it all the way down. Took some talent for the person holding it with the c-clamp to open and close bleeder but doesn't take long to bleed the air out. Watch the fluid level, as it goes down quickly.

When you say engagement is hard do you mean pushing the pedal is difficult? If you have air in the system the pin will hardly move and the pedal feel is really soft.
What I mean with engagement is hard is when you put it in 1st or 2nd, 3rd etc gear like have to put extra power on the shifter to go thru.
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