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Old 03-21-2012, 01:49 AM   #51
speakerpimp
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Any speaker that doesn't have a discrete signal from the MS-8 back will not be able to be controlled from the listening position which kills the pricipal of having mad control in the first place. If your going to amp the rears, then have them piggyback the L4 signal and fade with gain on the amp, otherwise just some efficient speaks on the rear output of the radio, OR you could do a little trick I like to do when a radio doesn't have enough outputs and put and LOC on the rear outputs for a seperate amp signal.

Too much overlap with speakers will lead to comb filtering and that beaming your trying to avoid as well. A nice gap is necessary so frequencies aren't overemphasized, with a 6db slop you could go like 4k on the tweet and still be good. Look at the L4-L6 gap.

L4= 200hz 12db, at 160hz it's barely down 3db if that and the L6 is right on top full strengh. In fact now that I think about you might even want more gap...
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:25 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speakerpimp View Post
Any speaker that doesn't have a discrete signal from the MS-8 back will not be able to be controlled from the listening position which kills the pricipal of having mad control in the first place. If your going to amp the rears, then have them piggyback the L4 signal and fade with gain on the amp, otherwise just some efficient speaks on the rear output of the radio, OR you could do a little trick I like to do when a radio doesn't have enough outputs and put and LOC on the rear outputs for a seperate amp signal.

Too much overlap with speakers will lead to comb filtering and that beaming your trying to avoid as well. A nice gap is necessary so frequencies aren't overemphasized, with a 6db slop you could go like 4k on the tweet and still be good. Look at the L4-L6 gap.

L4= 200hz 12db, at 160hz it's barely down 3db if that and the L6 is right on top full strengh. In fact now that I think about you might even want more gap...
That idea crossed my mind and I made mention of it before. Its just no one said anything about it so I thought that people were thinking I was a complete idiot by stating that . The only reason I don't like the other idea is it would change how I have things currently set up. If I had a 4.150 I'd probably just amp everything, but instead I bridged one of my 4.100 so I could get 200w for the L6's. I just don't want to add anymore equipment in my already fairly compact, yet large, build.

Final decision damnit! I'm going to run everything as so:
Ch1-6 3-way front stage
Ch7/8 - Subs
Rears will be run off the deck.


2nd bit of info is EXACTLY what I needed to hear! This makes a lot of sense and I never really realized that before. I'll definitely be trying out your recommendations as my starting point.

So I decided after some debate... to go with the Dayton HO's. They seem to really fit the bill for what I'm looking for. Compact, low VAS requirements, and seemingly very good power handling capabilities. Just so happens to be the kicker that they are super cheep so if for some reason I don't like them I won't feel that bad... I guess lol.

Unfortunately at the rate my build is going this thing might be done mid late April. My XS Power batteries that I ordered almost 2 months ago are STILL backordered.... WTF!

They are supposed to ship SOON.... we shall see I guess. I'll keep you guys posted on the random crap I do with the build as it progresses more. I feel that this week is going to be productive!

PS. Thanks for all the input speakerpimp. Constructive criticism.. I rikey
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:41 AM   #53
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Lateralis, awesome project man...
Off topic, are those CCW wheels you got? I got them on my supra, they look awesome on the STI as well
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:04 PM   #54
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Lateralis, awesome project man...
Off topic, are those CCW wheels you got? I got them on my supra, they look awesome on the STI as well
Thanks man. It's coming along... slowly .
Yes sir, LM20's. 18x10 +32mm. I got to roll my fenders and get all the supporting suspension bits to fit them. Contemplating moving them down to 9.5 by getting the 1.5" lips on them to make it easier.


As for build progress. Took the amp rack out yesterday and I was going to finish it off, but than I double guessed myself. The original reason I put the amp rack where it is was for space saving and because I was going to use both of the 12" W6's. Now that I am not the Daytons are going to free up a ton off room in the spare tire well. With that being said, my whole trunk layout might just change once I get the Daytons in next week. Because if I can fit EVERYTHING in the spare tire well I'm going to do that instead. Gives me more trunk space, and too me this time around is a must.

Things I need to do this weekend. Finish the kick pods and tweeter pods. Then wait for the last bits of my stuff to come in.... oh joy.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:37 AM   #55
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Made some progress today. The pods for the mids are done now. I just have to mount them and they are good. Tweeters might be done tomorrow if they don't piss me off anymore....

Picz yay...

From a while ago. The battery isolator....



It's a tight fit, but its got room in there!



Soooo I was lazy and their were steps in between mounting the rings and the point I took these pics.... bah...





Now the money shot!









I'm not going to lie.... They aint by any means perfect. The thing that sucks is since I made them I know everything wrong with them lol.... However, I am very happy with them considering these are the 1st kick pods that I have ever made so......

Last edited by Lateralis; 03-25-2012 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:41 AM   #56
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Some more pics of the driver side.







As you can see I made it a point on the driver side that the pod wouldn't interfere with my "foot" comfort while driving. I still have the dead pedal and plenty of room to swing my foot around still even with the pod there. Not too shabby ehh?
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:22 PM   #57
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Now that's some dedication to sound.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:42 PM   #58
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Mini update.

The Dayton's came in yesterday. Holy crap they are tiny compared to the W6's. Been doing a ton of box research for these things as well. Seems like I picked a very interesting little sub. What people have been using and are reporting great success with is this ridiculously small box design. .7 cu Ft ported to 30Hz for one 10. Yes I said .7 ported..... So this means I would need 1.4cu ft for a ported box. Than just get the port length some how for 30hz. I definetly got plenty of room to work now.

For trying to figure out the port length I've been left kinda confused. Here's the calculator I've been using : http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#por
I'm most likely going to go with a round tube since it will be easier to do. Grab some PCV pipe, cut to length, and DONE. I'm not going to see it anyways when the decks down so meh. What gets me though is say I use a 2" ID tube. with my specs it says I would need about 5.25" to get 30Hz. If I go to a bigger ID lets say 3" I would than need 12.9" to get there. Why is the bigger one longer? Is there and difference between running the smaller ID than the larger one?

More to follow as I am still waiting on my backordered battery... yay....
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:58 PM   #59
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Could you go a little more in depth onhow you made and mounted your amp rack? i have been looking for a space saving design to put my amps and that seems like a good solution.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:44 PM   #60
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Could you go a little more in depth onhow you made and mounted your amp rack? i have been looking for a space saving design to put my amps and that seems like a good solution.
Well I'm not sure what else I can say about it. It's pretty straight forward.

The board itself is about 37" wide and 14" long IIRC. You have to remove the 3rd seat belt for this to work with that amount of gap that I have. Crappy thing is the 3rd seat belt is connected to the right side rear passengers buckle. It's not 2 parts like in the GD is just one solid mount. Considering if I have more than 3 passangers I have TOO many I cut mine off as I hate and will not have someone sitting in the center. It annoys me .

As for where its mounted for the hinge I just drilled the bracket right up in to the lowest portion. Word of warning... That metal is fairly thin. Use some threaded inserts or something in there like the drywall plastic inserts to help keep the hinges in place. I recommend using 2 hinges for more stability.

I held the rack up with aerotech latches. I just built some mdf blocks and threaded a big hole for the latch posts and screwed it into the rear decks sheet metal. Works pretty good. Again for mounting use some threaded inserts or something. Last thing you want to do is be driving down the street hit a bump and the whole rack falls down.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:29 AM   #61
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Great thanks for the info, I plan on making mine on cabinet drawers so you can just unlatch it and pull it out. Also do you gain much clearance by removing the plastic cover for the seat belt, I would rather keep the it in there but Fi d a way to gain a little more clearance
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:53 AM   #62
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You can if you only need about 20". I needed about 32" to make it fit. If not you wont have the clearance to tuck it up that far and it will drop the whole thing like another 3" to clear the seat belt box. To me this actually really cut into the trunk space. You'd have almost no wiggle room around the box and almost 6" around the rest of the area.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:41 PM   #63
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Hey all,

reading this thread with great interest. Going to be "updating" my sound system very soon. So I also want to add backup cam to my 2012 Nav too. Is there a step by step for this posted anywhere?
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #64
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Honestly I haven't seen it yet for the 2012. Which reminds me I was supposed to take some more pics of the wiring harness for svdx... I completly forgot about that... damnit.

The question right now is what type of video input does the Fujistu Ten H/U take. It has the ability to have the cam hooked up and the H/U shows that it has a cam input signal.

I might guinee pig this but I haven't really put any time into researching rear cams.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:29 PM   #65
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Is there anyway to wire subs to a stock headunit without pulling out the deck?
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:41 AM   #66
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Is there anyway to wire subs to a stock headunit without pulling out the deck?
Yes. You would need to locate where you want to tap in the lines though for the Line out converter. Behind the deck is more convenient since all 4 ch's are right there. For the rears it would be in the bottom of the B pillar where the seat belt roller is. You would need to do both sides. Just stick with behind the deck. Its easier.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:49 AM   #67
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I'm late to the party... sorry...oontz oontz oontz


Pretty dope so far man.. So many words to read, I just haven't... I'm likeing the pics though...

Couple of things if you don't mind, that come to mind..

you taped off the spade terminals on the radio harness, yes? if not you should, open ends on them can lead to shorts.. not probable, but possible.. (you know this, I don't doubt)

The pods, looks good for a first run... a quick idea that might make the next set a lot easier...

do what you did, mount the ring over the glass tub, THEN stretch a T-shirt or grill cloth over the ring and staple/hot glue to the back of the tub, stretching it tight... it might require reshaping of the tub to get curves and spaced right..

Once it's tight and secure, apply some resin and let it cure, now you have a shell..

Cut out the speaker/grill hole, then using strips or shreds of glass, apply it from the INSIDE, through the hole..!!

Build from the inside out at this point..

SOOOOO much less bono, soooo much less sanding...


I'm also not a fan of how your power cable comes out from under that metal cover, after your isolator.. I would at least put some sort of protection on the metal lip, some cut fuel hose works wonders..

Also, I know I missed it, but why a relay type isolator? in the first place?

Cheers man, I love seening these builds come together...

Last edited by Aaron'z 2.5RS; 04-06-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:39 AM   #68
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^^^

1) Yep all the spade terminals are tapped off and labeled. I really should get a label maker though instead of a sharpie and glass tape... *shrug*

2) Good tips. I'll take those one board. These were definitely a learning experience, and I learned the hard way LOL. Still for a 1st shot I'm super happy with them.

3) Ya I'm not either lol. Don't worry it's covered by some 3/4" vacuum hose I had laying around. I just suck at keeping the pics more "up to date". I'm slacking, I know...

4) Hmmm, well their a couple things that go into why i chose a battery isolator. Remember that thread in DIYMA where i recommended an isolator and turned into a big pissing contest? I had plenty of crap to go with but I didn't feel like arguing.

The diesel truck analogy with un-isolated batteries. Why is it that they don't eat each other? Simple, they are the EXACT same batteries. People seemed to fail to realize this for some reason. How many builds have you seen where the main battery is exactly the same as the 2nd? The likely hood of "exact" same batteries having issues with each other is MUCH lower than that of different types. Kinda like the whole don't mix brands of AA batteries in your flash light or it might to into an alkaline mess. I'm using 2 different size of batteries in my car. and xs power d5100r (b17ch is still back ordered...) and the xs power xp 950. I do not intend to run the system by itself on the xp 950 while parking lot pimping. It just doesn't have the juice. I just want to separate them while the car is off.

Anyways my main reasons. My jobs some times takes me away from home for months on end. So the isolator makes disconnecting the batter easy. Pull the main batt negative and the car is dead. On that same token, I work on my car a lot. If I need make the car electrically dead for any reason I really don't feel like pulling more than 1 lead or having the possibility of having a bigger arc when reconnecting leads. Plus even if they are tapped off I just don't feel comfortable with having 2 live leads floating around the engine bay unless you go back to the 2nd batt and disconnect that too. Pain in the ass.

Why solenoid? Me know when worky cuz solenoid goes clunky! Personal preference I guess you could say. I hear the clunk sound I'm good. I don't hear it instant WTFBBQ!?
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:22 PM   #69
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Mini Update:

Figured I'd post some pics up before I forget. Finished the driver side tweeter pod. It's not perfect, but hey, I'm no pro but I think it turned out pretty awesome considering my skillz level.







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Old 04-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #70
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I dig your reply and the new tweeter pods...

Carry on...
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:53 AM   #71
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Looking good!
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:18 PM   #72
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Default Adding rear view camera to 2012 nav FW602US

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Originally Posted by djseth View Post
I also want to add backup cam to my 2012 Nav too. Is there a step by step for this posted anywhere?
Installing an aftermarket camera on the Fujitsu Ten nav HU is fairly straightforward. It uses a standard composite video signal, like other recent Subaru HUs.

The camera input is on a 16-pin socket. In this picture, it's the white socket in the upper-right corner, near the sticker "WN60"

(click to see larger image)
You need to connect an "enable" pin to ground (to tell the HU that a camera is present), and connect your camera's video signal to two other pins. See pin-out in this post. ADDED: The pin is simply a ground, not an enable input. You don't need to connect anything to that pin. See new notes I added to that post.

2012 Imprezas and Foresters already have a factory harness plugged into that socket. Imprezas do not have the camera wires. On Foresters, I think only those that are pre-wired for the OEM camera will have the camera wires at this harness.

I have the proper pins that fit the factory harness. I can provide a yellow female RCA jack along with an enable wire that you can easily snap into the empty slots on the factory 16-pin plug. Several people have successfully added aftermarket cameras using my cables.

Anyone who wants to contact me, see my profile (click on my username) and read the visitor message (or see my homepage).

Last edited by SVXdc; 01-06-2014 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:25 PM   #73
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SVXdc, you are a truly awesome resource to this forum. Just had to put it out there . If you still want that pic of the 14 pin I promise to get it to you by the end of the week. I don't plan on running the back up cam though.

Anyway Update....

Sooo, the tweeter pods are officially done in all their dinoc lazy glory lol. I honestly got sick of working on just the stereo so I took 1 day of the weekend off to do some engine work instead. Sunday I was productive... sorta lol.

I now have my MS-8 in the car and wired up with the exception of power. I decided to put it in the cab under the passenger seat. Tons of head room in there even with my seat brackets and stuff. Here are the pics.







As you can see I put my isolation board on top of the ms-8. It's just sitting there with some velcro. Not going anywhere. All the RCA's are run too. Yay.... Oh, and I put the screen in the glove box so it's out of the way. Lastly I didn't take a pic of it but I had some hard clear plastic laying around so I cut it up and zipped tied it to the top of the isolation board. Don't want random poo poo getting on it. Not that I really think it would be an issue.

Side note: Had some awesome news Friday. My stupid back ordered battery is going to be in this week! WOOT! With that I just need to finish up my box and I'm ready to rumble!
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:36 PM   #74
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Where can I get an extra harness for my 2012 WRX that I can cut for a stepdown? The breakout harness I guess. Oo
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:39 AM   #75
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Ya you can get it from ae64.com . The actual parts you need are from metra. I'd have to look up the pn's again all I remember is that they are Toyota harnesses.
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