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Old 04-03-2012, 05:20 PM   #1
Maxwell Power
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Location: Marysville, WA
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As many people know custom pistons cost a lot of money to have made. So MPS frequently holds group buys on custom pistons to lower the cost. My margin is minimal on all piston sales because the market is so competitive. With that in mind I pass the discount to you guys. Why would I do that? I'm sure some will ask. Well there is a little in it for me, I buy a couple extra sets and use them for builds. This makes the lead time smaller for customers that want these sort of builds.

The pistons are manufactured by JE Pistons utilizing the new 925SD forging. This forging is based off of the billet design that we (and a few other shops) helped torture test for JE. After the design was confirmed to work as they had designed they made a forging to match. Creating a forging off of the billet design lowered the cost from 1200 a set to roughly 900 a set for custom pistons.

However, that's not enough! So I worked it out with JE that if we get
4 sets we can lower the cost to 680 a set.
8 sets: 600

So now what I am offering is a group buy piston for +4mm long rods on a 75mm stroke crank or +2mm for a 79mm stroke or OEM length rods on an 83mm stroke. I'm also offering a built block option for 2.3 and 2.5L engines.

I am also offering the rods at +4mm and +2mm and OEM length.

The details of the parts:
JE Pistons


*8.3-10:1 compression ratio based on application.
*99.5mm 925SD Forging rated at over 1000hp.
*Tool Steel Wrist pins: strongest pins offered for these pistons
*Complete Ring set with high tension oil control ring kit
*Large Valve Reliefs for +1mm valves and high lift cams
*Custom MPS Dish for faster burn which bring MBT closer to TDC and further from your knock threshold
*Offset wrist pins for quieter operation
*Contact reduction: small channels cut in skirt to minimize surface area and help maintain oil film

Piston Specs:
3.9145" giving a .003-.004" clearance depending on final bore. Larger if block is honed.

15cc dish

.012" deck clearance for use with OEM STi headgasket


What can I use these pistons for?
2.34L engine with +4mm rods and 75mm stroke
2.5L engine with +2mm length rods and 79mm stroke
2.6L engine with OEM Length rods and 83mm stroke

What will my compression ratio be?
2.34L with STi heads: 8.35:1 Rev capable of over 9k rpm with supporting mods and high boost.

2.34L with 06+WRX heads: 9.1:1 Race gas or e85 use and 8500rpm revs.

2.5L with STi heads: 8.8:1 Perfect for daily drivers, race gas high boost or moderate boost (20psi) pump gas cars wanting more economy or pump gas cars running high boost with meth/water injection

2.5L with 06+WRX heads: 9.6:1 Low boost engines on pump gas, e85/race gas engines with moderate boost, N/A builds with Nitrous.

2.6L with STi heads 9.25:1 Torque monster setup on pump gas moderate boost (<20psi), higher boost on race gas or e85.

2.6L with 2.5RS or WRX heads approx 10:1. NA or low boost. Medium boost with race gas.


What can I expect from these pistons? Only the most power capable from your build. Example of a dyno graph with custom pistons similar to these:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2086005


Rods retail at 900 a set for our SuperH-beam. These rods are rated at over 1000hp, have L19 rod bolts and are one of the lightest rods on the market. We have them custom made for us and our engine program.
For the group buy, I can sell them at 825 a set with the purchase of pistons.

+2mm rods shown


Pistons:

People committed to the Buy (Pistons 2.5L):
1. camerdi
2. BigF
3. wittmer25
4. phr3ak
5. LoRex
6. aboothman



People committed to the Buy (Pistons 2.34L)
1. Hash_one (Brandon)
2. raggedoutSTi
3. thahaminator
4. kellygnsd


People committed to the Buy (rods):
1. Hawke +2mm Rods only
2. Hash_one +4mm Rods
3. NucleonQ8 +4mm Rods
4. raggedoutSTi +4mm
5. camerdi +2mm
6. wittmer25 +2mm
7. LoRex +2mm
8. Kellygnsd
9. thahaminator +4mm


Built block option: $4295
We will build the block with these rods and pistons (2.34 or 2.5L only).
As usual with our built blocks they will include:
*New STi case
*New STi or WRX crankshaft
*These pistons and rods
*ACL or King bearings
*Blueprinted and Balanced
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Last edited by Maxwell Power; 12-13-2012 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:33 PM   #2
subi400
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How long do you think you will keep this group buy open? I would actually have a need for the rods, the oem length H-beam for the 83mm na stroker for my wagon and then the +4mm rods with the 75mm crank for a higher revving NA eg33 build

Those rods look to be super beefy the best that I have seen so far.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:30 PM   #3
Maxwell Power
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do the math, $1505 gets you pistons and rods good to 1000hp. I think that's a pretty sweet f'n price.

I'm only going to keep it open long enough to get the requests needed to fulfill it.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:07 PM   #4
aboothman
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If only there was a 100mm option I knw, never going to happen. Still may go with the regular 100mm stroker JEs you suggested and a set of these +2 rods. I just want to take advantage of all the extras!
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:05 AM   #5
subi400
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Dom, this is a very good price!! I know other rods that are this tough are like $900 - $1000 for a set so this is a good deal

So, about 4 -6 sets then?
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:16 AM   #6
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Does this discount only account for the parts, or possible discount on buying a shortblock from you?
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:55 AM   #7
binjoau
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The pistons and rods currently going into my new MPS motor!
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:31 PM   #8
Maxwell Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Dom, this is a very good price!! I know other rods that are this tough are like $900 - $1000 for a set so this is a good deal

So, about 4 -6 sets then?
I'd like to sell 3 sets of each rod length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by raggedoutsti View Post
Does this discount only account for the parts, or possible discount on buying a shortblock from you?
I added a built block option.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:29 PM   #9
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Would you happen to have any cheaper rods that are +2m that will work with these pistons and an 05 STi? Factory turbo.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell Power


I added a built block option.
I've been waiting for this, do we have to wait for enough people to sign up and pay before you can start building a short block. And even worse finally need to decide 2.5 or 2.3 -__-
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:01 PM   #11
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raggedoutsti View Post
I've been waiting for this, do we have to wait for enough people to sign up and pay before you can start building a short block. And even worse finally need to decide 2.5 or 2.3 -__-
Where are you wanting to make power, between 3k and 7.5k or between 4.5k and 8.5 k? Do you want a fast higher speed car or a fast street car? From what I have gathered is that going with a built 2.5 L is going to be a fast street car. If you go with a 2.34 L it is still streetable in a way, but really shines if you want to go really fast as in higher top speed. Make sense?
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:12 PM   #12
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EtoS View Post
Would you happen to have any cheaper rods that are +2m that will work with these pistons and an 05 STi? Factory turbo.
Yes, Dom does have a slightly cheaper option on a set of +2mm rods that will work with these pistons. You might have to buy the cheaper rods by themselves and then purchase these pistons by themselves.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:53 PM   #13
raggedoutsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400

Where are you wanting to make power, between 3k and 7.5k or between 4.5k and 8.5 k? Do you want a fast higher speed car or a fast street car? From what I have gathered is that going with a built 2.5 L is going to be a fast street car. If you go with a 2.34 L it is still streetable in a way, but really shines if you want to go really fast as in higher top speed. Make sense?
Yeah, but few things that worry me,
Oiling at those rpms, how safe is it to hit 8.5 on a regular basis.
With a bigger turbo the 2.34 spool close to 5k a little under, and then rev it to 8.5 possibly 9.
But then a LR I've seen spool a larger turbo a little over 4k, and spin to 8.5. I was just looking at a thread where Dom tuned a 2.5lr with a twin scroll 35r spinning to 8.5 and made power all the way till redline.
So when it comes down to finally making the decision it's not as easy as I once thought.
I really want the 2.34, but I guess I'll have to discuss it with Dom.
Lol I just want to make the right choice.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:30 AM   #14
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raggedoutsti View Post
Yeah, but few things that worry me,
Oiling at those rpms, how safe is it to hit 8.5 on a regular basis.
With a bigger turbo the 2.34 spool close to 5k a little under, and then rev it to 8.5 possibly 9.
But then a LR I've seen spool a larger turbo a little over 4k, and spin to 8.5. I was just looking at a thread where Dom tuned a 2.5lr with a twin scroll 35r spinning to 8.5 and made power all the way till redline.
So when it comes down to finally making the decision it's not as easy as I once thought.
I really want the 2.34, but I guess I'll have to discuss it with Dom.
Lol I just want to make the right choice.
Dom will dispel any worries about the oiling at those rpms because of the parts that he uses and how he puts them together. He drove his 2.34 L hard every day hitting 9k and took it apart a year later and it still looked good inside. For a 2.5 L it is not going to last quite as long because of the rod to stroke ratio unless you do +2 rods with the 79mm crank then it would improve the ratio a little bit which is what he did with that 2.5L with the gt35r to make it rev to 8.5k.

The bottom line is that Dom is going to ask you how do you like to drive your car and what will you be using it for? Do you want more power in the mid lower to mid upper range, or from the mid range to the upper range? Do you want a nice, fast streetable car, or something that will produce more power higher up and a higher top speed but with some sacrifice under 4k? Basically, do you want a nice torquey car or a higher power car? Then, what is your budget?

If I had a choice between the 2.5L with the +2 rods and the 2.34L +4 rods, I would go with the 2.34LR but use an 04-06 sti 6 spd to get back some midrange.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:45 AM   #15
raggedoutsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400

Dom will dispel any worries about the oiling at those rpms because of the parts that he uses and how he puts them together. He drove his 2.34 L hard every day hitting 9k and took it apart a year later and it still looked good inside. For a 2.5 L it is not going to last quite as long because of the rod to stroke ratio unless you do +2 rods with the 79mm crank then it would improve the ratio a little bit which is what he did with that 2.5L with the gt35r to make it rev to 8.5k.

The bottom line is that Dom is going to ask you how do you like to drive your car and what will you be using it for? Do you want more power in the mid lower to mid upper range, or from the mid range to the upper range? Do you want a nice, fast streetable car, or something that will produce more power higher up and a higher top speed but with some sacrifice under 4k? Basically, do you want a nice torquey car or a higher power car? Then, what is your budget?

If I had a choice between the 2.5L with the +2 rods and the 2.34L +4 rods, I would go with the 2.34LR but use an 04-06 sti 6 spd to get back some midrange.
Exactly why I want the 2.34 so bad because I lose races when I hit 5th, to be able to stretch out my tiny gears would e the ultimate, thank god this came in time for tax return season should be easy to fill the quota.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:52 AM   #16
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raggedoutsti View Post
Exactly why I want the 2.34 so bad because I lose races when I hit 5th, to be able to stretch out my tiny gears would e the ultimate, thank god this came in time for tax return season should be easy to fill the quota.
Alright, well that should do it then Tax return is perfect this time of year... So, basically you want to do a 2.34 LR and have the nice top end that you are looking for. Since you have an 05 sti 6 spd, you can use that tranny, but if you really want that top end, then I would suggest either going to a 07 sti tranny or have the 2-6 gear ratios from a 07 legacy spec B 6 spd installed in your current tranny. Doing the 2-6 gear conversion would be cheaper I believe if you decided to do that
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:10 PM   #17
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:57 PM   #18
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Without giving away too many secrets (or really any right now), oiling can be done and can be reliable. Obviously the type of oil, weight, oil temp and how the engines are built all play major roles. We pay more attention to certain clearances and tolerances than most other engine builders. So I can comfortably say that spinning a 2.5 to over 8k is very doable and safe. The shorter stroke and longer rods will make it even more reliable at that rpm. It goes without saying that there is still a fine line between racing and abuse. A responsible owner will experience the engine for a longer period of time than the irresponsible one.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #19
Maxwell Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Yes, Dom does have a slightly cheaper option on a set of +2mm rods that will work with these pistons. You might have to buy the cheaper rods by themselves and then purchase these pistons by themselves.

I no longer have the less expensive rods. The manufacturer changed their procedures and the quality tanked. I sent back 30 sets of rods to them a month or so ago and we are no longer using their rods. Whenever they fix those rods, they may try to sell them back to me, but I'm not going to use them. You may, however, find them for sale somewhere like ebay. I won't sell them and I won't recommend them. I won't build an engine with them if you buy them. But you are free to use them on your own if you feel so inclined.

We don't sacrifice quality for price at MPS.
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:30 AM   #20
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell Power View Post
I no longer have the less expensive rods. The manufacturer changed their procedures and the quality tanked. I sent back 30 sets of rods to them a month or so ago and we are no longer using their rods. Whenever they fix those rods, they may try to sell them back to me, but I'm not going to use them. You may, however, find them for sale somewhere like ebay. I won't sell them and I won't recommend them. I won't build an engine with them if you buy them. But you are free to use them on your own if you feel so inclined.

We don't sacrifice quality for price at MPS.
Wow, that is crazy! I had read after I made that post that you had some issues with some rods. Why can't people make quality parts... Hopefully someone else steps up and produces a quality yet affordable rod for the engine builds.

So, what rods are you selling right now (besides these super H-beam rods) concerning the slightly cheaper version not being available right now? I know people who are coming to you right now and in the soon to be future would like to know so they can adjust their budget

Quality is everything and that is going to go a long way!!

Last edited by subi400; 04-13-2012 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:18 PM   #21
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Sending pm..
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:51 PM   #22
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Double post

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Old 04-19-2012, 09:51 PM   #23
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Would my 2007 Legacy GT be considered to have wrx heads on your compression chart?

Is it worth it to have the 2.34 rev out to 8.5k on stock heads? or would it be best to just run the 2.5lr if keeping the heads stock?
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsunamiLGT View Post
Would my 2007 Legacy GT be considered to have wrx heads on your compression chart?

Is it worth it to have the 2.34 rev out to 8.5k on stock heads? or would it be best to just run the 2.5lr if keeping the heads stock?

stock heads= 2.5LR.

Yes, D25's count as wrx heads.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:03 PM   #25
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WOO! I'm on the list!

Spelled my username wrong tho..
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