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Old 04-25-2012, 02:14 PM   #26
Ying
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 424wrx View Post
you would need to remove the rear struts. then get spring compressors and take the top hat off. the sirclip is under the lower spring perch. its a process to lower once they are on the car!
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but is it possible to compress the springs while the whole assembly is still on the car in order to move the circlip?
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:27 AM   #27
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
Just got around to measuring. 13.5" up front and 14" in the rear. This confirms my case for moving the circlip back down in the rear although I have no clue when I'll find the time to do it.
Good deal. Very close to what I got with my Koni setup...

RR: 14.375"
LR: 14.5"
RF: 14.125"
LF: 14.0"
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:30 AM   #28
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but is it possible to compress the springs while the whole assembly is still on the car in order to move the circlip?
Getting the clearance to get the spring compressors on there would be tough at best.

Even if you lifted both sides and let the rear droop, you'd have to disconnect the swaybar to get it to go to full droop. Then you'd have to get the compressors in there and compress/decompress them with a potentially limited range of motion for the wrench, AND the threaded rods on the compressors would have the potential to come into contact with the underside of the car as yuo compressed the springs and drive the rods upward.

Probably more trouble than just pulling them out.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:00 AM   #29
Ying
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
Good deal. Very close to what I got with my Koni setup...

RR: 14.375"
LR: 14.5"
RF: 14.125"
LF: 14.0"
Only measured drivers side, whoops. Also wasn't as detailed as your measurement. I'm sure it's around this site, but what as stock height?

Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
Getting the clearance to get the spring compressors on there would be tough at best.

Even if you lifted both sides and let the rear droop, you'd have to disconnect the swaybar to get it to go to full droop. Then you'd have to get the compressors in there and compress/decompress them with a potentially limited range of motion for the wrench, AND the threaded rods on the compressors would have the potential to come into contact with the underside of the car as yuo compressed the springs and drive the rods upward.

Probably more trouble than just pulling them out.
Thanks, that's what I was expecting to hear. Never messed with suspension parts before so I had no idea. Guess I have to start reading to find out what I'd need if I wanted to do it in my driveway unless I can find someone who works for beer lol.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:29 AM   #30
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
Only measured drivers side, whoops. Also wasn't as detailed as your measurement. I'm sure it's around this site, but what as stock height?
I took measurements in 2 different locations:

RR: 14.25" 14.375"
LR: 14.375" 14.25"
RF: 14.5" 14.75"
LF: 14.5" 14.5"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
Thanks, that's what I was expecting to hear. Never messed with suspension parts before so I had no idea. Guess I have to start reading to find out what I'd need if I wanted to do it in my driveway unless I can find someone who works for beer lol.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2322600

That thread has pictures of the critical steps of the rear.

I needed/used:

1/2" drive (for taking suspension off of the car and putting it back on):
metric sockets
breaker bar
ratcheting wrench

I also used pass-thru sockets (seen in the link below) to aid in disassembling and re-assembling the spring/strut combo.

Metric box end wrenches

3/8" drive (to remove the upper mounts):
ratcheting wrench
metric sockets
Extension bar (12" I believe)

Jack and jackstands
Wheel chocks (or bricks) for the front wheels

Last edited by phenryiv1; 04-26-2012 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Added more info
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #31
lightgod86
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Ok, well I installed the blacks on my non-revalved bilstiens on Sunday and have taken most of the week to really get a feel for them over a range of different road surfaces. I would have to say that the change is not drastic by any means. When the road surfaces are tough, for example there was a ton of construction in San Francisco when I went up there yesterday, you still feel like you are being tossed around and your car is being beaten (I feel like this is due to the shock valving, and less to do with the spring). On smoother roads with dips and smaller bumps, you can really feel that there is a bit more give in these springs and you dont get the strong "push" upwards which I always described as the "bounce".

As for ride height, I actually think these are a bit lower than the yellows, and maybe thats just because they are softer and just ride lower. Thinking about this when installing them, I did raise the rear circlip up one notch from middle to compensate, but it was so minute that you can barely tell.

I have noticed a "clunk" in the front end after installing these, but only when I hit speed bumps (which I drive over every day at work). Not sure what it is, as I have checked every bolt twice.

Overall, I do like these better than the yellows because they ARE a bit softer. That being said, I think the re-valve would also help reduce the jarring you get on rough surfaces. I still find that I can't really use my headrest in my car unless I am on smoother highways going highway speeds.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:03 PM   #32
Ying
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2322600

That thread has pictures of the critical steps of the rear.

I needed/used:

1/2" drive (for taking suspension off of the car and putting it back on):
metric sockets
breaker bar
ratcheting wrench

I also used pass-thru sockets (seen in the link below) to aid in disassembling and re-assembling the spring/strut combo.

Metric box end wrenches

3/8" drive (to remove the upper mounts):
ratcheting wrench
metric sockets
Extension bar (12" I believe)

Jack and jackstands
Wheel chocks (or bricks) for the front wheels
Thanks! Now I just have to figure out what tools I don't have in my measly arsenal of tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by lightgod86 View Post
Ok, well I installed the blacks on my non-revalved bilstiens on Sunday and have taken most of the week to really get a feel for them over a range of different road surfaces. I would have to say that the change is not drastic by any means. When the road surfaces are tough, for example there was a ton of construction in San Francisco when I went up there yesterday, you still feel like you are being tossed around and your car is being beaten (I feel like this is due to the shock valving, and less to do with the spring). On smoother roads with dips and smaller bumps, you can really feel that there is a bit more give in these springs and you dont get the strong "push" upwards which I always described as the "bounce".

As for ride height, I actually think these are a bit lower than the yellows, and maybe thats just because they are softer and just ride lower. Thinking about this when installing them, I did raise the rear circlip up one notch from middle to compensate, but it was so minute that you can barely tell.

I have noticed a "clunk" in the front end after installing these, but only when I hit speed bumps (which I drive over every day at work). Not sure what it is, as I have checked every bolt twice.

Overall, I do like these better than the yellows because they ARE a bit softer. That being said, I think the re-valve would also help reduce the jarring you get on rough surfaces. I still find that I can't really use my headrest in my car unless I am on smoother highways going highway speeds.
Thanks for the review. I get that clunk to hitting speed bumps and on some uneven pavement if we're talking about the same thing, but I much prefer it to the feeling and sound of maxing out the stock dampers going over potholes and such. I've just been chalking it up to the stiffer dampers.

Last edited by Ying; 04-26-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:45 PM   #33
lightgod86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
Thanks for the review. I get that clunk to hitting speed bumps and on some uneven pavement if we're talking about the same thing, but I much prefer it to the feeling and sound of maxing out the stock dampers going over potholes and such. I've just been chalking it up to the stiffer dampers.
I meant an actual audible clunk when I go over speed bumps. It sounds like either end-links clunking or what I would imagine the sound of my top bolt on the top plate not fully tightened, however I have made sure they are.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:23 AM   #34
Ying
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightgod86 View Post
I meant an actual audible clunk when I go over speed bumps. It sounds like either end-links clunking or what I would imagine the sound of my top bolt on the top plate not fully tightened, however I have made sure they are.
Yeah, don't have that. GL finding a remedy.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:01 PM   #35
scoobysteve11
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You don't have the rear on full drop you have two more lower setting or just one.? I've heard you use your oem top hats and 08-10 have a .5inch drop on the top hat so I'm on the search for those top hats and then debating whether to do these or the koni. Hard choice this seems easier and a bit less expensive but I heard of a guy that has 13" from fender to hub on koni and rce blacks. I want that extra drop :?
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:06 PM   #36
Ying
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobysteve11 View Post
You don't have the rear on full drop you have two more lower setting or just one.? I've heard you use your oem top hats and 08-10 have a .5inch drop on the top hat so I'm on the search for those top hats and then debating whether to do these or the koni. Hard choice this seems easier and a bit less expensive but I heard of a guy that has 13" from fender to hub on koni and rce blacks. I want that extra drop :?
If I recall, there are 5 settings. plus and minus 5mm and 10mm and the middle setting. My rears are at plus 10mm at the top.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:46 PM   #37
Mr Wrex
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Just an FYI for anyone else debating on getting this setup... on the 2011+ models, the black springs offer a 10mm drop over the yellows.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #38
mkvaron
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Great review! I also have the GtWrox/Bilstein set up that was valved for the yellows, but I have since put the blacks on. Eats ****ty pavement alive without having the terrible roll the stock set up does. Oh, and it drops it just the right amount for all those peeps looking to have the ever so unbearable gap between the wheels vanish haha
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:31 AM   #39
Ikkitousen
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I thought hard on this, but I am gonna go with the Koni's instead for the adjustability and much cheaper...

For $1300 I rather buy coilovers, just my 10c.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:00 PM   #40
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Wrex View Post
Just an FYI for anyone else debating on getting this setup... on the 2011+ models, the black springs offer a 10mm drop over the yellows.
Interesting...bassackwards from previous years.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:42 PM   #41
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I am about to place an order for these with the black springs.

Ying--did you ever move the circlip down to +5 or 0? I have the 22mm whiteline rear bar with kb endlinks and am concerned about clearance. I also really want to avoid the "saggy butt" so I was thinking of starting at +5 and seeing if they clear the endlinks at full droop.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:42 PM   #42
stoker68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foolycooly View Post
I am about to place an order for these with the black springs.

Ying--did you ever move the circlip down to +5 or 0? I have the 22mm whiteline rear bar with kb endlinks and am concerned about clearance. I also really want to avoid the "saggy butt" so I was thinking of starting at +5 and seeing if they clear the endlinks at full droop.
Installed these with the black spring on my 09'. I too, have the 22mm adj. whiteline sways with kartboy endlinks. I am on +5 (1 notch up from middle) and have had no issues.

check out my in-depth review here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...0#post39368560
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