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Old 04-15-2012, 10:49 PM   #526
1 Lucky Texan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littledrummerboy View Post
a member I pm'd with an 06 had trouble when he removed his valve so now I don't even know if 06s are safe to remove all valves either. Maybe to play it safe the valve should just be kept there for all years These conflicting stories are confusing
If it's stuck open, you'll have to remove it, either for a replacement valve or the block-off plates and code deletion.

IF one of your valves has the sensor, just cut it out and zip-tie it outta the way. (maybe inspect the connector for damaged pins)
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:29 PM   #527
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so just to clarify things, as an 07, we cut out the sensor, clip it back into the harness, and basically tuck it somewhere like under the intake manifold?
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:14 PM   #528
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yes..
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:27 AM   #529
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So I read this entire thread and I still do not believe that there is a well put answer for the 07 wrx owners. I am getting the P01410 code and have I few questions.
I am getting horrible gas mileage so I need to fix this soon...

1. I am lead to believe that this (P0410) is the valve stuck open?
2. Is this the valve that is easy or harder to get to?
3. I can remove both valves, block them both off because they're both on the drivers side? (left had drive car)
4. What do I do with the hard line, just cut it and block it off until I get to taking out the turbo/intake manifold?
5. So I scrape the sensor off the one valve, zip tie it out of the way and leave it plugged in, just hanging there?

I got my car last August. I was informed that they replaced one of theses valves, or had a Subaru dealer put it in, but I was not told what valved it was... the dealer is 4 hours away... shall I at least try and give them a call or what? Because if the dealer will cover this, by the time this comes back up there will most likely be a more certain fix... at leas for the 07 wrx.

Sorry in advance, I do not like being difficult but this thread is all over the place due to the differences in the years and models. Go easy on me.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:28 AM   #530
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double post.

Last edited by Leftear; 04-23-2012 at 12:28 AM. Reason: double post
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:36 AM   #531
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Warranty for emission is 80k miles. So if you can, I've heard the dealer mostly cover this problem with the Secondary Air pump. Its a shot. But for me, i was way over 80k so i opted to do it myself.

I recently had a problem with my 2ndary air pump with the code P2443 (Secondary air pump valve stuck closed bank 2). I kept getting cels even after resetting my ecu a few times. So i bought a used air pump valve for the bank 2 (right/driver side), replaced it and it was fixed right away. No more cel. If you have an air pump VALVE stuck open or closed, i think you would get either of these codes:

P2440 - Secondary Air pump valve stuck open (bank 1)
P2441 - Secondary Air pump valve stuck closed (bank 1)
P2442 - " " " " " open (bank 2)
P2443 - '' " " " " closed (bank 2)
P2444 - Secondary Air pump valve stuck on

But since you don't, I'm thinking your valves are fine. Maybe its your Secondary AIR PUMP b/c ur code is P0410 for "Secondary Air Injection System." Doesn't say the word "valve" or anything.The big black circular plastic thingy right above ur battery. So if it was me, I'd check all the fuses/relay to make sure its not shorted and that all the pipes/plugs are on correctly to make sure its working. And then if that isn't the prob, go on to take things apart and check pump and valves. T.T

You know where the 2ndary air pump is. But both the valves are actually located on the driver side of the engine bay even though its Left and Right side. Left/Right refers to where in the engine the air is getting injected into. Bank 2/Right side is the easier one. Just take off IC, and u'l see it right there. Take out bolts and replace. But the Bank 1/Left is a PITA to work i hear. You most have to take off the intake manifold to replace that one. It's basically right next to the Bank 2 valve, under the intake manifold. You can see it right there when u work on ur Bank 2 valve.

You can go with the delete system, but wen it comes for smog check i think it'l be a hassle. Basically smog check will check to see if ur Air pump is there and working, if not, u don't pass visual -> fail. That's y i went to fix mine instead of put delete plates and delete codes via Opensource. Up to you though. Hope this helped.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:14 AM   #532
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Thank you for your detailed reply. I am not entirely sure that I am still under the warranty... I am under 80k miles but I thought warranty was different depending on what the buyer got with the car upon purchasing.

So you think it could be a fuse of some sort?
What will explain my loss of boost and horrid gas mileage if its not a valve?

Edit-
So I went outside and checked over a few things. I have spotted both the valves and what I believe is the hard line that runs to the passenger side, right by the turbo. As stated before, I started the car and ran like a mad man to the air pump (yes it was a cold start) and it ran for about 30-45 seconds and it shut off. I felt/heard it shut off, and both the fuses are fine, and I assume the relay works if the pump is shutting off. At this point I feel that I will have to take the valves off to test them but I am not sure as to how to test them.
I usually get ~150 miles out of my first quarter of a tank of gas. I am at that mark now and I have only driven 89 miles...? And I have driven as I always have.
Let me give the dealer a call and see what they can tell me/do for me i guess.

Also, as long as I can pass emissions via no check engine lights, I am good. I know peoples.

2nd Edit-
Called a few places, no one has heard of this issue, and the car's warranty went out in 2010.

Last edited by Leftear; 04-23-2012 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:42 AM   #533
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Default Fixed

Just did these steps with Openport 2.0, ECUFlash. Everything works. Downloaded ROM, edited to remove CEL codes. Removed fuses. All is well 1 week in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by juanvaldez View Post
Can anyone tell me if this process should work in the 2006 Saab 9-2x ?(essentially the same car as the same model year WRX Wagon)

Has anyone done this?
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:59 AM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftear View Post
So I read this entire thread and I still do not believe that there is a well put answer for the 07 wrx owners. I am getting the P01410 code and have I few questions.
I am getting horrible gas mileage so I need to fix this soon...
one thing to check, cause its easy if you have an Accessport. Check the barometric pressure, should be around 14 or 15 PSI. If the sensor is bad it will F things up.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:57 PM   #535
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Originally Posted by northman View Post
one thing to check, cause its easy if you have an Accessport. Check the barometric pressure, should be around 14 or 15 PSI. If the sensor is bad it will F things up.
Yeah I was thinking that it had to so with one of those sensors. I don't have an Accessport, but if I know someone that has one will they be able to read it for me? Or is it specific for every car?

So everyone conforms that the P0410 code is not a valve stuck open or closed, but has to do with sensors/electrical?
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:58 PM   #536
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Originally Posted by Leftear View Post

So everyone conforms that the P0410 code is not a valve stuck open or closed, but has to do with sensors/electrical?
I'm not sure in your case, but my car triggered a CEL (I think it was 1410) even though I had the valves blocked off and CELs disabled.

With an Accessport (and I'm sure Romraider) you can monitor or log many engine parameters, one of them is barometric pressure. Mine was out of wack, which affects the way the ECU calculates boost.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:21 PM   #537
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Originally Posted by northman View Post
I'm not sure in your case, but my car triggered a CEL (I think it was 1410) even though I had the valves blocked off and CELs disabled.

With an Accessport (and I'm sure Romraider) you can monitor or log many engine parameters, one of them is barometric pressure. Mine was out of wack, which affects the way the ECU calculates boost.
Hmm thats odd, but makes me think it has to do with a sensor of some sort... the one that is on top of the valve? Whats the difference between 0410 and 1410? I used my OBD2 scanner at my work to check the code.
Would I be able to use a friends Accessport to measure barometric pressure or do I need to go to my local subaru shop for them to do it?

I also called the dealer... I was told that my car is under an extended warranty and that they would call me back to let me know what it is that they can do. Still waiting for them to get back to me.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:20 PM   #538
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^P1410 is Secondary Air Injection System
Switching Valve Stuck Open

P0410 is Secondary Air Injection System

I find that if one goes, all of the other air pump codes tend to come on eventually. It seems like a chain reaction
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #539
Leftear
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So that's seconday air system... but people that have deleted the entire system are getting this code.. o was assuming it was a sensor, but everyone seems to have a different idea of what it is.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:46 PM   #540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftear View Post
So that's seconday air system... but people that have deleted the entire system are getting this code.. o was assuming it was a sensor, but everyone seems to have a different idea of what it is.
check post 275

If one of your valves has more wires going to it than the other valve, it has the sensor in it. you will need to retain the sensor. Ether by keeping the valves installed (if they are stuck closed) or by cutting the sensor out and positioning it safely if you remove your valves and install block off plates.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:40 AM   #541
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So I assume I will have to take the intercooler off to see all the wires to the valve under the intake. I just wish there was a more definite definition to this code (p0410). I'm taking the car to a shop a buddy works at to look it over... I'll update everyone what happens.

Edit, thank you for point out that post. I've read the entire thread more than once and still have no answer for my question. I know where the sensor is, but deleting the valves and relocating the sensor will not solve my problem, because what I was told (assuming the info was correct) is that because the description of the code P0410 says nothing about a valve itself, just "secondary air system". Ugh.

FYI about 150 miles on the trip to half a tank of gas
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:42 AM   #542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftear View Post
So I assume I will have to take the intercooler off to see all the wires to the valve under the intake. I just wish there was a more definite definition to this code (p0410). I'm taking the car to a shop a buddy works at to look it over... I'll update everyone what happens.

Edit, thank you for point out that post. I've read the entire thread more than once and still have no answer for my question. I know where the sensor is, but deleting the valves and relocating the sensor will not solve my problem, because what I was told (assuming the info was correct) is that because the description of the code P0410 says nothing about a valve itself, just "secondary air system". Ugh.

FYI about 150 miles on the trip to half a tank of gas
well, if you just want a repair done to the existing system, there are several failure possibilities including something as simple as a vacuum leak. (the valves are operated by vacuum when the system tells the solenoids to open and turn the pump on.) P0410 just means something like 'no secondary air detected)' so, could be a bad relay, open fuse, bad pump, low vacuum, stuck or slow operating valve I guess.


found this too;

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f72/...28/#post271297

Last edited by 1 Lucky Texan; 04-25-2012 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:07 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftear View Post
So I assume I will have to take the intercooler off to see all the wires to the valve under the intake.
I was able to pull the connector off the valve that houses the pressure sensor without removing anything. I have the air pump deleted, and run a TXS TMIC, so your results may vary.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:46 PM   #544
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Thanks guys, very helpful. I found out that its the pump that's bad. Does anyone have an air pump I can get for a decent price until I can get to deleting the system?
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:51 AM   #545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftear
Thanks guys, very helpful. I found out that its the pump that's bad. Does anyone have an air pump I can get for a decent price until I can get to deleting the system?
I have one that I deleted off my 07 sti for sale.works fine and comes with everything.shoot me a pm
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:20 PM   #546
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Does anybody else have an air pump there willing to get rid of for a decent price?
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #547
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saw 1 or 2 on ebay. JUnkyard probably has some too.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:55 AM   #548
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I did the air pump delete last year on my 07 and never looked back.

I still have the whole AIR Pump system if anyone needs to replace theirs they can buy mine because I wont be using it again. Just PM ME
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:58 PM   #549
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I have one that I deleted off my 07 sti for sale.works fine and comes with everything.shoot me a pm
Patment sent
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:28 PM   #550
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If you remove the air pump completely does it kill your mpg, or does it not have any effect at all?
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