2011/2012 WRX Flip / Switchblade Key

[xluben]

For any questions, please email me (not PM or my box will fill up) via NASIOC (click HERE), and I will help you as much as I can!



THIS ALSO WORKS ON PRIOR to 2011 MODELS. SEE BELOW FOR MORE INFO:

Originally Posted by xluben

Nope, 08-10 Impreza is different. You'll need to do the 09 Legacy reciever box (as explained in the 09 Legacy All-In-One Key thread). Ignore the FCC ID for checking compatibility.

Part: 2009 LEGACY REMOTE

Known Compatibility:
2002-2007 WRX
2002-2007 STI
2002-2007 Impreza
2005-2009 Legacy
2003-2008 Forester

Part: 2011 LEGACY REMOTE

Known Compatibility:
2011-2013 WRX
2011-2013 STI
2011-2012 Legacy

Now into the 2011 WRX-specific process:

Parts Required:
2011 Legacy Key
Flip Key Housing
Donor Key

I do not recommend buying any of these parts on eBay. There have been many, many issues with people getting incorrect or mis-listed parts from eBay. For the flip key housing and Legacy remote, they are hard to find, please email me (not PM or my box will fill up) via NASIOC (click HERE), and I will help you obtain one.

Here's what you'll be replacing:



Once you have all the parts, you can start by opening up the flip key shell. It should just open right up, but be careful to to lose any parts. There is a spring under tension, so it may pop out. When opening it up, try to pay attention to the orientation of everything. It should look like this.





Next up is to prepare the donor key. I chose to use the valet key because it seemed like this was the best choice as a "throwaway", but I did not think about the fact that this key will not open the glove box. If you need that ability, then I would suggest cutting up one of the standard black keys. Here are photos of my valet key getting cut. The process should be identical with a black key.



Once you get the rubber off (slices off very easily), then there will be a white platic section around the metal key. This pops apart and the transponder comes out. You will need the transponder in the new key to be able to start the car.

Once you have it apart, you have two options. The first is to pay the dealer, or someone else with laser key cutting ability to cut your blank flip key blade for you. This is often quite expensive. The second option is to DIY your donor key blade to fit. This is free. To see the blade modification process, go to the next post. If you are having someone cut the blank blade for you, you can skip to post #3.

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[xluben]

Looking at the disassembled flip key parts, you will see that the blank key blade is held into the pivot mechanism by a small roll pin. To get started you need to punch out the roll pin.



Take your time and be careful not to damage anything. Using a proper punch and small hammer, it came out quite easily. Since you're looking at this post, that means you intend to modify your donor key blade to fit into the housing. If this is the case, then you will not need the blank blade. I would suggest keeping it just in case something goes wrong in the modification process. The next step is to cut the valet key to fit into the flip housing. This is the tricky part...

I started by tracing the outline of the key blank onto the valet key. The valet key won't be able to be quite as long as the blank, but you should try to make it as long as possible, or the flip housing won't fit into the ignition area of the car. After it was traced out, I mounted it in a table vice and carefully cut/shaped it using a Dremel and a high speed cutoff wheel. This was not real easy, but I took my time and it turned out great. If you have more time, hand files would probably work just as well for this.





When I did it I took the pivot mechanism out to the garage with me and kept doing test fits while I trimmed it. The key is to take a little at a time until it fits perfectly. Then cut the slot for the roll pin very last. You want this to be in just the right spot to hold the key tightly. Once it fits well, push the roll pin back in (I used the punch/hammer and gently tapped it back into place).



If the modified blade fits snugly into the pivot mechanism then congratulate yourself because the hard part is over! The rest is just re-assembling things and is quite easy.

[xluben]

Next up is the Legacy key.





You will need to open your Legacy key to get the remote module out. Start by removing the screw in the back of the key. Once the screw is removed, you should be able to split the halves and open it up. The remote module should just fall out at this point. Then use a screwdriver to pry out the 4 tabs around the edge of the remote module to split it in half. Once you have it open, write down the 8 digit code on the white sticker. You will need this later for programming the remote to work with the car.



At this point you should have everything you need:

• Flip Key Housing
• Flip Key Screws and Decal
• Blank Flip Key Blade or Modified Donor Blade
• Transponder Chip from Donor Key
• Legacy Remote Module

If you want to be able to start the car, you need to put in the transponder. There is a little spot for it next to the pivot mechanism. I have found that the transponder does not stay in place by simply setting it in the slot and assembling the flip key. I suggest a dab of hot glue or adding some padding material to hold it firmly in place once the key is assembled.

You'll then want to place the remote module from the Legacy key into the flip housing. It should just sit into place. Make sure to flip the key over and make sure all the buttons are showing through properly. It can take some wiggling to get the remote to sit correctly. When it is properly installed all of the buttons should be able to be pressed.

After that, slide the button into the pivot mechanism. There are 3 prongs on the button, and 1 of them is smaller. If you look into the pivot piece, you should be able to see where the smaller prong will sit. Slide it into place. Then set the button/pivot into the housing.



Next you'll need to insert the spring into the button. You want to insert the end of the spring with the end of the last coil bent inwards. If you look at the inside of the button you will see there is a slot for this part of the spring to sit into. Make sure it sits into this slot. When it is in place you should be able to twist the spring and feel the blade turn. If the spring spins freely, then it is not seated correctly.

Once the spring is in place, you need to get the housing back together. This seems simple, except you need to preload the spring or the blade won't pop open. The other side of the housing has some grooves/tabs that will hold the other side of the spring (the end sticks outwards). Line up the housing like the photo above and make sure the spring seats into one of the slots, then give the housing a full turn counter clockwise, and the close the housing. This preloads the spring and makes it pop open with good force.



After the housing is all closed up, you need to screw it together. Use a small (size 0) screwdriver to do this. The screw will self tap into the plastic. Do not overtighten them or they will strip out. Flip the key in and out to make sure it works. Then add the sticker, and you're done with assembly!



Next up is programming it to work with your car...

[xluben]

The last step to getting this all to work is to program the remote to work with the car. The steps can be found here:

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless2010.html

Please FULLY read through the instructions before you start. If you do not do it correctly it can be quite frustrating. It looks like a long process (and it kind of is), but once you do it, it is actually fairly simple. Here is the short version that explains only what you need to do if everything goes right.

1. Close all doors, trunk, gate
2. Open the driver’s door, sit in the driver’s seat, and close the door.
3. Perform the following steps within 45 seconds.
(1) Open and close the driver’s door once.
(2) Insert the key into the ignition switch, then turn it from the “LOCK” position to the “ON” position 10 times within 10 seconds (must be done very quickly).
NOTE: When you complete step (2), an electronic tone will sound once.
4. Open and close the door once within 15 seconds, an electronic tone will sound for 30 seconds.
5. Before the electronic tone stops sounding, press the lock side of the power door lock switch the same number of times as the leftmost digit of the transmitter code. For example, press the lock switch eight times if the leftmost digit of the code is 8.
NOTE . The electronic tone will stop sounding when you start entering the number.
6. When you have finished entering the number, press the unlock side of the lock switch within 5 seconds.
NOTE . An electronic tone will sound.
7. Perform parts 5 and 6 of the procedure for each of the remaining digits of the transmitter code beginning with the second digit (counting from the left) and finishing with the eighth digit.
NOTE When you finish entering the eighth digit, an electronic tone will sound for 30 seconds.
8. Before the electronic tone stops sounding, use the power door lock switch to reenter the transmitter code beginning with the leftmost digit.
9. When you have finished entering the code a second time, an electronic tone will sound for 1 second to indicate completion of registration, provided the code entered the second time is identical to that entered the first time.
10. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
11. Test transmitter to confirm correct operation.

[xluben]

[TWlSFM]

Dude. You are a boss. Subscribed!

[Jmhm17]

Nice, I like the step by step pics.

Need a reliable source to sell the 2011-2012 transmitter tho.. I have yet to find one..

The switch blade cases are getting harder to get as well.

[NMZ_WRX]

i wish u could make me one

[NMZ_WRX]

does this work on the 2007 wrx?

[mattesonb]

Nice, I'm glad you took the time to do a write up. I didn't take any photos when I did mine.

I'm going on 3 weeks with this exact key and it's awesome!

[xluben]

Originally Posted by Jmhm17

Nice, I like the step by step pics.

Need a reliable source to sell the 2011-2012 transmitter tho.. I have yet to find one..

The switch blade cases are getting harder to get as well.

Thanks. I hope that the 2011 Legacy's get more common on eBay the older the car gets. It would be unfortunate if the flip shells dry up though. The one I have seems to be pretty nice quality.

Originally Posted by NMZ_WRX

i wish u could make me one

Originally Posted by NMZ_WRX

does this work on the 2007 wrx?

No idea. The parts I am using certainly would not work.

Originally Posted by mattesonb

Nice, I'm glad you took the time to do a write up. I didn't take any photos when I did mine.

I'm going on 3 weeks with this exact key and it's awesome!

Yeah, I was still quite confused after reading your posts, and it seemed like the info was spread out through about 5 pages of two different threads on 2 different forums. I'm hoping to get all the info into one place. Shaping they key was the trickiest and most unknown part. Before getting the flip key shell I hadn't seen any photos inside of it and had no idea what all had to be modified to make the donor blade fit.

[OKC-WRX]

Subscribed. Definately something i want to do one of these days.

[xluben]

Originally Posted by mattesonb

Nice, I'm glad you took the time to do a write up. I didn't take any photos when I did mine.

I'm going on 3 weeks with this exact key and it's awesome!

How did you hold the transponder chip in place? I set mine into the little slot, but it rattled around and eventually fell out. Does the circuit board and buttons hold it in place? Or should I glue/tape it in?

[xluben]

Well, I got my Legacy key and put it all together, only to find that I got the wrong Legacy key The key works to start the car, but the remote doesn't work. Right now I have a very fancy valet key, lol.

I uploaded the photos, but I won't be able to finish the write up until I can find a new key. If anyone sees one, I would be grateful for a heads up!

[mw1484]

sorry to hear, that really does look awesome though. Like most, this would be awesome to have.

[olazy]

dang that sucks. legacy keys are scarce once this mod came out, not sure if you're willing but a new legacy key goes for around $60.

quick q, can you remove the key from the legacy fob?

[xluben]

It might be possible, but what everyone has been doing (that doesn't want a flip key. just and all-in-one) is buying one of these blanks and then having it cut:

http://www.rocketkeys.com/product_p/sub-shell-1.htm

[masterforce]

yea looks like you got the wrong key. 11+ legacy keys are the laser cut keys. looks like you got a 09-10 key.

[xluben]

I was talking to Power6 and he said that since the FCC ID matches, it is actually probably a 2012 Impreza key. They went back to a standard blade. He thought that it should be able to be programmed, but without the 8 digit code, I don't see any way to do it myself. I might have to stop in to the dealer. Or keep looking for a 2011 Legacy Key.

[DarkLegacyNY]

Awesome.

[olazy]

Originally Posted by xluben

It might be possible, but what everyone has been doing (that doesn't want a flip key. just and all-in-one) is buying one of these blanks and then having it cut:

http://www.rocketkeys.com/product_p/sub-shell-1.htm

just exploring my options because i'm not sure i'd be able to hack up my stock key and i question the quality of the uncut key that comes with the flip shell.

gotcha, but what are they doing about the keyless buttons since the one from rocketkey is just the shell?

[xluben]

Well, you have to cut the stock key open to get the transponder out no matter what. Shaping it to fit in the flip key shell is a challenge though. If you don't want to do that you need to buy a used Legacy key and the Legacy key shell/blade. The blade quality will be fine. Get the blade cut, and then swap the buttons from the used Legacy key into the shell. Then program that remote to work with the car.

[olazy]

Originally Posted by xluben

Well, you have to cut the stock key open to get the transponder out no matter what. Shaping it to fit in the flip key shell is a challenge though. If you don't want to do that you need to buy a used Legacy key and the Legacy key shell/blade. The blade quality will be fine. Get the blade cut, and then swap the buttons from the used Legacy key into the shell. Then program that remote to work with the car.

yeah without the right tool its the re-shaping to fit part that sounds like it would be tricky.

[xluben]

Yeah, that was a bit scary. Worked out fine for me though. Hand files might be better. It would probably take an hour, but you could make it perfect. Your other option is to get the blank blade cut. This will be the same for either a flip key or the normal style Legacy key shell.

[guitarman19853]

Anyone know a non-ebay source for the key shells? They seem to be all gone on ebay.