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Old 04-26-2012, 06:35 PM   #26
m0nkey
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I'm about to install a set of NGK BKR7E copper sparkplugs in my wrx and while I was gapping them i used pliers to decrease the gapping and it left indentations on the sparkplugs. I was just wondering is this ok to be used or should I buy another set?




PS: I got my coilpacks in the mail but waiting to see if the proper gapped sparkplugs will do the trick.
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:49 PM   #27
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Bahhh now you have misfire codes man!? shoulda put that in your first post, that woulda helped.
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m0nkey View Post
it only happens at wot or under hard accerlerarion. If I apply 30% throttle the car doesn't sputter but once I flat foot it, it goes down the drain. I will check out that hose tomorrow morning. Is there any possible way that when my injector started to leak it made the fuel pressure regulator to go bad? Is there anyway to test this? I ordered the coilpacks from rockauto so I know I can return them with no doubt.
Only way to check would be to install a fuel pressure gauge, tape it to the windshield and go for a quick drive while watching it under a load.
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
Bahhh now you have misfire codes man!? shoulda put that in your first post, that woulda helped.
Well it's just showed up with a different map. Lol I wished I had a cel now I know what I'm looking for. But it doesn't matter all the time.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:39 AM   #30
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UPDATE: I replaced all the coilpacks and the fuel pressure regulator. I recently got a misfire in cylinder 1,2, and 3. Should I regap my sparkplugs to 0.025? And I am running rich, my car back fires.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:57 AM   #31
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When you say sputter does it buck you back and forth in your seat or is it just a sound.

Check your A/F ratio if its bouncing around in between ritch and lean you will feel that.

If you cant feel the sputter and the car is hold boost all the way to redline this might sound dumb but it could be your EWG flutter that your hearing/feeling?

EDIT: You said he tuned the car and then the injector started leaking right? I wonder if the injector was leaking the whole time and he tuned it that way.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:25 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garrek11 View Post
When you say sputter does it buck you back and forth in your seat or is it just a sound.

Check your A/F ratio if its bouncing around in between ritch and lean you will feel that.

If you cant feel the sputter and the car is hold boost all the way to redline this might sound dumb but it could be your EWG flutter that your hearing/feeling?

EDIT: You said he tuned the car and then the injector started leaking right? I wonder if the injector was leaking the whole time and he tuned it that way.
Here is a video of what i am talking about. Does this sound like wastegate flutter?

Heres a video from 1st to 2nd

heres a video of a 3rd gear pull

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Old 05-11-2012, 03:23 AM   #33
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Hard to tell but doesn't sound like it to me. Just sounds like something is clogged or a vac leak
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:37 AM   #34
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Could my wastegate be bad? It sounds like its not opening all the way when I go wot. But at 30% throttle its fine.

Could the puttering be caused by a faulty PVC valve? I saw oil leaking on my engine head from this part that has a hose connecting it to the PVC valve.

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Old 05-11-2012, 04:03 AM   #35
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Hmm I would say wastegate cant handle it. I dunno i a noob and felt like commenting. Spring your wategate actuator with a 5lb spring from home depot or whatnot. See if it holds the boost better
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:03 AM   #36
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That hose is not even on properly. That would be causing a pre-turbo leak letting unmetered air in. This can cause your hesitation. Get a hose clamp on that, or replace with tighter hose.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:42 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m0nkey
Could my wastegate be bad? It sounds like its not opening all the way when I go wot. But at 30% throttle its fine.

Could the puttering be caused by a faulty PVC valve? I saw oil leaking on my engine head from this part that has a hose connecting it to the PVC valve.
Dude that hose coming off your intake right there isn't clamped probably your problem right there.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m0nkey View Post
Could my wastegate be bad? It sounds like its not opening all the way when I go wot. But at 30% throttle its fine.

Could the puttering be caused by a faulty PVC valve? I saw oil leaking on my engine head from this part that has a hose connecting it to the PVC valve.

The fluttering sound is your wastegate... it is what external wastegates sound like as they dump into atmosphere. That is assuming you're using an external waste gate. If it is internal I would guess you do not have a downpipe. (Joke.. haha)

and omg please clamp that hose... not sure why it's twisted like that either.

Normally when you turn or reset your ecu it is a good idea to let it idle for a good long while then drive around easily on it for awhile before you start really hammering on it. (Not saying you didn't.. you just didn't say you did.)
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:49 PM   #39
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Could very well be a leaky wastegate. Simple test. Use a rod, pin , zip tie, etc to secure wastegate arm from moving.
And yeah, pull out pcv and shake it, if it rattles its fine.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:44 PM   #40
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Dont worry guys I just put on a clamp on that hose.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtslayer View Post
Could very well be a leaky wastegate. Simple test. Use a rod, pin , zip tie, etc to secure wastegate arm from moving.
And yeah, pull out pcv and shake it, if it rattles its fine.
I think that would work on an internal wastegate but not on my external.

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Originally Posted by Computersare8ad View Post
The fluttering sound is your wastegate... it is what external wastegates sound like as they dump into atmosphere. That is assuming you're using an external waste gate. If it is internal I would guess you do not have a downpipe. (Joke.. haha)

and omg please clamp that hose... not sure why it's twisted like that either.

Normally when you turn or reset your ecu it is a good idea to let it idle for a good long while then drive around easily on it for awhile before you start really hammering on it. (Not saying you didn't.. you just didn't say you did.)
I have another problem now maybe its related to my symptoms. I was at advance auto parts and when i was leaving to turn on my car it would just crank and crank but it wouldnt start. Then finally it fired up very slowly stumbling. Any ideas? Im think about regapping my sparkplugs smaller.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:40 AM   #41
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Whats your vacuum at now that you put a clamp on there?
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:34 AM   #42
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Still the same -12 / -10 with ac
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:42 AM   #43
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Try a diff gauge from a local or something...cuz if it reads the same then you still have a vac leak somewhere.
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:56 AM   #44
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I think you have several leaks here most likely. PCV system is almost certainly leaking with a hose like that and if that hose is that way I would suspect other hoses are also not up to the task. Also, why do you continue to seek advice and troubleshoot a problem with a vac leak like that? You know there's a leak because as it's been stated before the vac gauge should be around 20" (it's not -20, it's 20") without a leak in the system. I recently found a vacuum nipple under my throttle body that I was not aware of which wasn't hooked up and it was idling at about 18" and now it's idling at 21" vac.

Fix the vacuum leak. Then go from there if the problem persists. I haven't had much success with spraying carb cleaner. Bring it to a shop and have them hook up a smoke machine to it to verify there's no leaks.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:04 AM   #45
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not trying to thread jack, just a quick question...so if I'm idling at 16 on the vac gauge, theres a good possibility that i have a vac leak?
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:08 AM   #46
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Yea.
Smoke test it
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:30 AM   #47
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Yea.
Smoke test it

hmmm alright thanks...cuz I'm also misfiring in all four cylinders ...so I'm sure thats a big part of it
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:59 AM   #48
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PS that extra wire on the passenger side of the engine bay is probably for the EGT that used to be in the uppipe.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #49
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monkey, did you end up solving your problem or no?
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:49 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honest Bob View Post
PS that extra wire on the passenger side of the engine bay is probably for the EGT that used to be in the uppipe.
No figured out that connector was for my tgv motors. I purchased a pair of tgv deletes so now I zipped tied them down. I have a grimmspeed external wastegate up pipe so that get is deleted and I installed the resistor to turn off the CEL.


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Originally Posted by ukranianization View Post
monkey, did you end up solving your problem or no?
Well after reading quite a bit of threads on nasioc, I saw a video of another sti with the same problem and it's because of my grimmspeed ebcs. Another person said that it's normally with a ebcs but a good tuner should be able to tune it out. I'm going to get a retune at Cobb hopefully its gone forever.

Last edited by m0nkey; 06-15-2012 at 04:56 AM.
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