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Old 06-01-2012, 03:55 PM   #1
WRXinpa
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Default How would you spend $100 on soundproofing/deading?

I want to add a sound dampener and possibly deadener to the front and rear doors. I will be installing amped components up front, so I want to unleash their full potential and maybe quiet the car down in the process.

What products would you use? Max I would want to spend is $125 for the job.
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Old 06-01-2012, 04:46 PM   #2
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http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Get enough CLD tiles to follow their 25% of each panel guideline. (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld)

And top with some mass loaded vinyl. Cover the complete door frames with this stuff. This is also a great noise barrier if you want to decrease road noise in the trunk or floor area. (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/mlv)


Sit back and enjoy
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Old 06-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zachfeen View Post
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Get enough CLD tiles to follow their 25% of each panel guideline. (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld)

And top with some mass loaded vinyl. Cover the complete door frames with this stuff. This is also a great noise barrier if you want to decrease road noise in the trunk or floor area. (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/mlv)


Sit back and enjoy
Good reference, thanks! Although the mass load vinyl is going to put me way over budget. What about ensolite from Raamat?
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:07 PM   #4
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Raam makes great stuff as well. I used a roll of the original RAAMmat in my focus spl build. I have never used ensolite so I can speak to it but I'm sure its quality. It most likely won't be as effective as a true mass loaded vinyl but it should certainly help.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXinpa View Post
Good reference, thanks! Although the mass load vinyl is going to put me way over budget. What about ensolite from Raamat?
Completely different animals... CCF (ensolite) does almost nothing, but decouple (seperate things, keep them from rattleing) it's not a "deadener" in any way..

MLV physically blocks sound... you all have a sheet of it on the firewall..


For 100$ I would get some product, put some behind the door speakers (outter skin) and around the speaker mounts themselves (inner frame)

Once that is done, I would concern myself with other places..

Large areas of unsupported metal (outter skin) resonates FAR more than the framework..
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:20 PM   #6
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Raam advertises that insulate also incorporates some type of acoustic barrier, like I said I have never used it but maybe it is worth a shot.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Completely different animals... CCF (ensolite) does almost nothing, but decouple (seperate things, keep them from rattleing) it's not a "deadener" in any way..

MLV physically blocks sound... you all have a sheet of it on the firewall..


For 100$ I would get some product, put some behind the door speakers (outter skin) and around the speaker mounts themselves (inner frame)

Once that is done, I would concern myself with other places..

Large areas of unsupported metal (outter skin) resonates FAR more than the framework..
Thanks Aaron (I'm assuming that's your name ). A 37 sq ft roll of Raamat would give me enough to hit the doors and have some left for the hatch area.

There's so much conflicting information on where to dampen and how much. Your saying to focus on the outer skin and speaker mount only? Thats going against the recommenation of the Sound Deadener Showdown website 25% rule on the inner skin..
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:29 PM   #8
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Don't deaden whole panels, it is very much overkill. Many people layer deadener to act as a sound barrier, which is not it's purpose whatsoever. Whole outer door panels are more resonant but the 25% rule still would apply. I would start with that rule and then do the knock test and see how much the panels resonate.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:30 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info guys! I'll get this done within the next 2 weeks..
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:34 PM   #10
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:41 PM   #11
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Fatmat is hit and miss. The experiences I have had with it have for the most part been miss. The adhesive isn't great, especially mounted on vertical surfaces. I'd get the raammat
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:45 PM   #12
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Rick (RAAMAudio)'s products are great and he used to cut NASIOC members a deal on their orders. It doesn't take much to make a big difference... I didn't spend much more than $100 in 2007 for a roll of BXT, some Ensolite, and adhesive which was plenty for the doors, floor, trunk, and under/behind the rear seat.

Like mentioned above it's less sound deadening and more reduction of resonance. The doors in our cars in particular are about a millimeter thick and weigh nothing, and have what looks like a post it note stuck to them for sound deadening from the factory.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:23 PM   #13
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IMO the raammat works better than dynamat extreme. I'm using both in my car - dynamat on my front doors and raam stuff on my rear doors. My rear doors shut with a nicer, more full sounding thud compared to the front.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:06 PM   #14
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What would you guys choose for MLV from this page?

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/su...ts.asp?dept=28
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:36 AM   #15
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I just went thru this in my 2011 OBS. I originally used Dynamat in the doors and picked up RAAMAT for the hatch as it was cheaper. Personally I felt that the Dynamat and RAAMAT worked the same. Only differences I noticed was that the RAAMAT aluminum top layer was sharper when cut, so I had a ton of paper cut type cuts on my finger tips, but it didn't happen with the Dynamat. Haha Performance wise, they acted the same, but for some reason I prefer the Dynamat. Regardless, the RAAMAT is cheaper and does the same thing, just be careful and wear gloves.

As others have mentioned, for $100, pick up some RAAMAT and Ensolite and cover the doors. I doubled up on the deadener behind the speakers and placed an 8 x 8 square of ensolite behind each speaker in the door to minimize reflections from the aluminum top layer. If you have anything left over, hold onto it. Enjoy the work performed to the doors and decide if you want to move onto other areas of the car. If you decide to continue, move onto the hatch / trunk area next. If it's a hatch, concentrate on the wheel wells and the areas behind them. I originally did the doors and then moved onto the hatch area.

If you plan on placing a sub into the hatch / trunk then I highly recommend dampening the area and cover it with ensolite. Where the sub enclosure will be placed, cover the rear of the plastic panels with ensolite to minimize buzzing / rattling panels. I picked up some black hockey tape and taped the edged where plastic panels over lapped each other.

I won't say that my car is BMW / Mercedes quiet, but it did make a difference as far as resonances, creaks and buzzing noises. I installed a Pioneer AVH-P8400BU HU, JL components in the front and JL coax in the rear doors. Now that the amp, AI enclosure, sub are installed and everything is connected, I'm happy to report that I don't have any of those annoying rattling / buzzing sounds in the doors nor hatch area. The doors and hatch close with a thud rather than having that thin can sound. I still have some slight creaks in the dash, so that's what I'm tackling next. Hopefully I can do it by pushing some hockey tape into the seams where plastic panels meet as I really don't want to remove the dash.

Hope that helps...
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXinpa View Post
What would you guys choose for MLV from this page?

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/su...ts.asp?dept=28
Seems dope, need to compair prices though...
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #17
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Hey Luis! Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Seems dope, need to compair prices though...
The MLV is only 10% more expensive than Ensolite, but its heavy, at 1 lb per sq ft! I don't have the budget for padded MLV or doing both MLV and Ensolite.

Which would be more effective...the 1/8" MLV or Ensolite? Thanks Aaron
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:26 AM   #18
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Ive used Dynamat and had good results, DEI makes boom-mat i think and ive been told it works really good, look into it and see if it might work.

Aaron
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:42 PM   #19
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MLV will be more effective...

MLV isn't the easiest to work though, understand, it's 1/8" vinyl, it doesn't fold easy, doesn't bend great and it'll likely have to be spray glued up...

Not something to use rattle can glue for...

This is my recomendation..
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:47 PM   #20
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^^ Boy, that seems messy. I emailed and called Rick and Raammaudio. No response and the voice mail box is full. Wonder if he's away...I'm gonna go with Ensolite on top of the BXT II and see how that goes.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:26 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXinpa View Post
Hey Luis! Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it.

The MLV is only 10% more expensive than Ensolite, but its heavy, at 1 lb per sq ft! I don't have the budget for padded MLV or doing both MLV and Ensolite.

Which would be more effective...the 1/8" MLV or Ensolite? Thanks Aaron
No problem and like Aaron said, the MLV will be more effective than ensolite. I'm thinking of going the carpet padding route as it's easier to work with, but other than trying to tame the dash creaks I'm not 100% sure as to what I'm going to do next.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:06 PM   #22
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I worked on my passenger door this weekend, first experience in sound dampening. I ordered from sounddeadenershowdown (SDS), got their CLD tiles, MLV and CCF. Also got the Extruded Butyl Rope and Don (SDS owner, awesome guy, helps you every bit of the way if needed) put together a nice package for me to do everything from beginning to end (some other things I did need to get on my own though, such as denatured alcohol and some razor blades). I followed his instructions, which included using vinyl cement to glue the CCF to the MLV. Once the CCF/MLV composite was done, industrial strength Velcro was used to attach it to the inner frame. Originally, I doubted that the industrial strength Velcro would work because the MLV is some HEAVY stuff! But I went with Don’s instructions since he is the pro at this, strategically placed the Velcro and boom – worked as Don said it would! And since it is attached with Velcro, I can take the CCF/MLV composite off if I want to work on something inside the door.

Like aaron said, MLV is not easy to work with. I needed an extra pair of hands to help me with some of its cut-outs and test mounting it here and there (first time doing this, wanted to do it right). however, with Don’s method, you won’t need to spray glue the MLV to the panel, just use industrial strength Velcro.

I say cover 25% of the outer skin with CLD tiles (including placement of one right behind the driver). If any is left over, cover some of the flat areas of the inner skin, and then go with the MLV onto the inner skin with industrial strength velcro. Not sure if these materials for all 4 doors will be within budget, but you can hit up SDS/Don for a quote.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike626
I worked on my passenger door this weekend, first experience in sound dampening. I ordered from sounddeadenershowdown (SDS), got their CLD tiles, MLV and CCF. Also got the Extruded Butyl Rope and Don (SDS owner, awesome guy, helps you every bit of the way if needed) put together a nice package for me to do everything from beginning to end (some other things I did need to get on my own though, such as denatured alcohol and some razor blades). I followed his instructions, which included using vinyl cement to glue the CCF to the MLV. Once the CCF/MLV composite was done, industrial strength Velcro was used to attach it to the inner frame. Originally, I doubted that the industrial strength Velcro would work because the MLV is some HEAVY stuff! But I went with Don’s instructions since he is the pro at this, strategically placed the Velcro and boom – worked as Don said it would! And since it is attached with Velcro, I can take the CCF/MLV composite off if I want to work on something inside the door.

Like aaron said, MLV is not easy to work with. I needed an extra pair of hands to help me with some of its cut-outs and test mounting it here and there (first time doing this, wanted to do it right). however, with Don’s method, you won’t need to spray glue the MLV to the panel, just use industrial strength Velcro.

I say cover 25% of the outer skin with CLD tiles (including placement of one right behind the driver). If any is left over, cover some of the flat areas of the inner skin, and then go with the MLV onto the inner skin with industrial strength velcro. Not sure if these materials for all 4 doors will be within budget, but you can hit up SDS/Don for a quote.
Thanks for the info. How much did all that run you?
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:27 PM   #24
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i bought enough material (as recommended by Don) for front and rear doors for about $250 shipped (I drive a 2003 4dr WRX).
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:12 PM   #25
mainemetsfan
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Hey Guys--I was just installing some Raamat on the doors and trunk -- I have an '06 hatch--but I can't figure out how to get the panels off around the wheel wells. I've been looking for pics, or a walk though but can't find one. Any help?
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