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Old 06-16-2012, 02:58 AM   #1
steven765
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Somewhere in the Northeast
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2006 Baja 5 Speed

Default Engine Build

Okay so here goes the build log on my baja rebuild.

First thing why go overboard with it? I like my baja and there's nothing better on the market, 9k is less than a new car.

For anyone else thinking of doing this, two things. One tell your wife, significant other, Mexican concubine that you're going to be tied up for about a week. Two allocate about 15% more than you think it should.


Parts list
CCR reman'ed engine with tri-coated pistons, and anti friction coating on bearings.

Exhaust, borla header and strommg high flow cat, both ceramic coated.

Intake manifold, ceramic coated, phenholic spacers, high performance silicon hoses, all new wiring, piping, sensors, and all stainless steel screws.

Suspension: New Oem full built struts and shocks with 1" stuble lift kit, whiteline sway bars, whiteline front/rear links, whiteline rear transmission mount, and whiteline rack n' pinion mounts. Also new oem rack.

Adding plx sensors for oil temp, press, and rear diff temp. These will connect to the car computer, but i'll save that for a
later post.

All the parts:



The guys at racemetalsmiths did a great job powder coating the fuel lines. Note the new ones from subaru are no longer anodized they were straight steel. WTF!
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Last edited by steven765; 06-16-2012 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:06 AM   #2
steven765
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First up some pics of the rack.



So to install the whiteline bushy's you need to remove the pipe you see in the pic above, and the one underneath it. Note be prepared to deal with the extra ATF fluid that leaks out. It's pretty straightforward after that. I coated everything in poly bushing




First up the three things you need.

Last edited by steven765; 06-16-2012 at 03:53 AM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:17 AM   #3
steven765
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The Intake, the real fun. So this took about 6-7 hours to put together.

Also a box of gloves, I used a new pair each time I put the never seize on a bolt. Note this is necessary because you're putting stainless in aluminum and it will corrode to it. The dielectric grease I applied to pins of each connector. And of course vitamin I.





So install the two large pipes first, leave the passenger side for last.



Don't tighten or torque anything until it is fully assembled. Also if you're smart put the rubber fuel hose on the nub to the rear fuel pressure regulator before you put that large piece on, it's buried and I kept scraping my knuckles on the right hand fuel pipe where the regulator mates too! The nub in the pic above, you can also disconnect the fuel injectors and swing that arm up, which I suggest doing.

So for installing the injectors I uses a tinly bit of the dialectric grease on the O-rings so they don't tear. I forgot to mention that the fuel hose is the new gates barricade carb compliant hose. You can get two foot section on amazon. Note if you have the lines coated, the fuel hose will NOT want to go on too easily, a slight bit of grease helps however don't over do it! If you do the line will not clamp and seal, I had to throw out a bunch of hose because of getting too much grease on it.



Obviously you can't powder coat the regulator, the high temp engine paint is a pretty close match, so I masked off the ports and painted it and the air assist injector.

Shot of the left side.

Right side


So all the piping is done. All the bolts are torqued to the manual specs.


Next up is installing the wiring, should be easy 2 hours later. ugh
Start by attaching the grounding wire, it's the easiest landmark. Then the passenger side injector connectors.



Route the harness around the back of the intake, I carefully slid the two furthest connectors between the pipes. It's neater and doesn't need an extra zip tie. Connect the EGR.

Here's a shot of the underside so you can see how I lined things up. Only after all the injectors, egr, ground(with dialectric), ignition connectors are in place do you use the zip ties.



Here's the near complete result, I'm waiting for the other brackets to be powder coated, bright green.


For the curious the high performance silicon hose sizes you need are 3mm, 4mm and 6mm. I'm going to use some of the 8mm to route the coolant up and down from the throttle body. I'm not sure about using it on the breather lines, I don't know if the oil vapor would affect the silicon.

Last edited by steven765; 06-18-2012 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:17 AM   #4
steven765
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reserved for engine build

Fun notes so far:
-The t-70 torque from the transmission drain plug will remove the drain plug to install the block heater! Note do this while the engine is on it's side, needs lots of torque!
- After the block heater is installed, install the water return pipe, THEN the water cross over pipe. (it won't fit underneath it you'll have to remove it)
- CCR forgot to include or didn't mention they don't include the block adapter for the oil pressure switch. Had to order one from wrextra, there goes another 20$
- Turns out this is a moot point! I'm installing a PLX oil pressure sensor. The sensor they use (VDO) has a secondary output for the factory idiot light!
- Unfortunately, the block adapter from WRextra isn't tapped deep enough to ensure a good connection with the ground ring, Thankfully they guys in the machine shop let me borrow a 1/8NPT tap.

Finally got the last of the brackets powder coated.


Also changed my mind and had the water crossover pipe powder coated in the purple as well, unfortunately my guy ran out of purple, he didn't have enough to do the alternator bracket which is sad because I want to do the alternator in green between then.



You may catch in the pic above I had to reverse direction and install the oil pressure sensor in the rear galley. Using the blue gates racing belts which are 3mm shorter than what the factory calls for, it won't clear the alternator. Right also to install those belts you need to remove the nut holding on the alternator pulley and slide it on!

*poof* 6 10 hour days later here she is installed


So here's the modification I made to the EGR pipe to support the phenholic spacers, grimmspeed is off their rocker, you have to space it to fit the 8mm ones. My solution drill a 5/8 piece of steel, and M12 tap it. M12 die will work on the pipe without cutting too deep. I did a straight tap/die and used a set of M12 bolts to lock/seal it in place.



More pretty pictures:


A little blurry, but I highly recommend installing the block heater before anything else.


Le turd before removal


What do you use your subaru for? How about building a new subaru:


Open bay, post cleaning new throw out bearing installed, notice how I supported the tranny.
I felt more secure with it on a piece of wood less likely to rock off the jack and onto my feet or groin sitting there cleaning all the grime out


As the rad supports were rusting to **** I had them coated and put some anti corrosion stuff on the corners of the chassis where it's starting to rust



I have a few more pics to unload from the camera but honestly not too many. I kept running into problem after problem. Overall it took about 6 10-12 hour days to install everything AFTER i had the block rotated and the manifold built up. I didn't realize there were 6 bolts and 2 studs in the engine, I bent the studs trying to remove the engine with them still attached. Which was fine because race metalsmiths was able to coat the radiator support brackets and alternator bracket in the day it took subaru to get me new studs. CCR installed the mating pin on the wrong side of the engine!!!! I had it together and was bolting it tight when i noticed that, I wanted to scream. Another 3 hours wasted pulling the engine again and levering that out with a very large pair of vise grips and a screwdriver.

The exhaust was pain (sorry no pics ) you have to extend the rear O2 sensor cable, again time, I used about 22 inches of wire and ran it down along the transmission side with the VSS and P/N switch using those clips to hold the wire. I soldered it, and heat shrinked each connection then sealed everything in electrical tape and finally some wire-loom to pretty it up. Talking to the guys as casper electronics, they don't make an extension cable for our model, however he was kind enough to mention that you have to extend it on the copper wiring side, the O2 sensor itself uses stainless wire and you'll really mess up the sensor signal running from the sensor. You need a dremel and grinding wheel to polish out the old gasket from the cat back pipe if you don't install a new one. Buy new bolts, springs and nuts from subaru, they will be toast coming apart. I installed it by sliding the entire exhaust out the back, bolting it together then sliding it back in on a creeper so the ceramic coating didn't get hurt.

If your rack makes a clunking noise, as mine was and the ends were shot it's worth replacing, unless you can afford the extra 4-5 days down time for someone to rebuild the inner ends. I will tell you even with the engine out and exhaust out of the way it took 4 hours! Bolting that in is not easy especially with the whiteline bushings which fit a lot tighter.

With everything out I took the opportunity to bring the P/S, Coolant overflow, radiator, and WS washer reservoirs over to the self wash, with some orange cleaner and time they look brand new. A note there's a valve of some sort in the PS container, after i cleaned it getting all the water out was impossible, I just ran some atf fluid through it into my oil catch pan until I was happy none remained.

Last edited by steven765; 10-21-2012 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:18 AM   #5
steven765
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I see the problem there's steven in the engine:


Moving on, I jinned up a 1/8th shutoff valve for the throttle body bypass coolant.
I then removed it because 1 use thread tape or it will leak, 2 I didn't notice any difference


For the final round of coating I had most of the inner brackets coated in green to make them stand out:


Some detail, you can see the ABS, PS res, evap can brackets


I like this pic because it gives you a sense of everthing I did underneath the car:
You can see the whiteline sway bar, coated bracket supports, exhaust, and the oil temp sensor
the ksr202 steering rack bushings and even the green brackets above are visible.


If you look at the full size image in the lower right corner you can see how the borla *just* barely clears the sway bar.

Last edited by steven765; 10-21-2012 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:18 AM   #6
steven765
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So a really really important tip. If you install a new IAC valve you have to gently walk the arm out to about the same position as the old one. Otherwise as mind did at first start it will not work and your engine will race up to 4000+ RPM. I damn near **** myself in the drivers seat when this happened. I then looked at the 8 CEL codes, 4 of which were the IAC valve. Took a breath and installed the old sensor, deep breath again, installed it and phew idled at 1500. I'm not kidding I damn near threw up!

Last edited by steven765; 08-19-2012 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:59 PM   #7
steven765
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Soo yea, never ever sit and work on this stuff on the floor, get it to arm level. Three days laid up taking pain meds having sprained the muscles/ligaments which hold the vertebrae together. More pics of the engine coming soon.

Further note, my I think ran out of powder coating color I was using! Leaves a cryptic message that we can discuss monday. I'm like ahhh just call you knew I was happy with several colors, le sigh.

Last edited by steven765; 06-23-2012 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:21 PM   #8
slagman
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Nice Job! Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 06-24-2012, 04:26 AM   #9
jrigby
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Looks great, this is for an n/a baja right?
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:07 PM   #10
steven765
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Yep for an N/A, I know I know why not go turbo. I'd love to if people would pay my gas bills.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:15 PM   #11
starr-backsport
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Any updates?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:21 PM   #12
Baja_Gernaut
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rumble black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven765 View Post
Yep for an N/A, I know I know why not go turbo. I'd love to if people would pay my gas bills.
I would but you live too far
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:07 AM   #13
steven765
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hopefully some updates this week. I had the water cross over pipe coated. The dipstick tube they send was the wrong one, AGAIN. Worse I didn't check it and had it powder coated, I'm not happy. The only thing I don't have besides that is the AC bracket, I can't find one of the new ones in the junk yard.

I spent a bit of time working on the carputer, I got the plx sensors for temp and oil pressure. I've been modifying their dash design to include them. It reads down to 1psi so i can use the laptop during first start to make sure I'm up to pressure.

I've spent wayy to much on the stainless steel bolts. They look great though. Oh and the rust appearing at the seams underneath pisses me off, vanbortel subaru was lazy and didn't coat a lot of the joints and seams in the back by the spare tire.

Last edited by steven765; 08-05-2012 at 01:19 AM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:07 PM   #14
steven765
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Updates: It's in it works!! See above, more pics coming soon. I'm in the middle of a move the day after. Still have my fingers crossed that I don't get a CEL

I had it out on the road today breaking it in a bit, 4k RPM now sits around 86mph, used to barely hit 80 on a good day!! It's fun again I'm loving it!

Unfortunately not seeing any great improvement in fuel economy that I was hoping for. I think it needs to be tuned, but does anyone do that for the NA?

Last edited by steven765; 08-20-2012 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:10 AM   #15
steven765
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no love ouch
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:55 PM   #16
Brown Claw
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Any updates? im looking to build my na aswell in the future. Do you have any shots of your exhaust set up or vids? I also cant seem to find that SPT short ram anywhere.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:26 PM   #17
Baja_Gernaut
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no love ouch
Hey no more pics. Unbelievable Anyway when time is provided, upload something on youtube to hear that engine running.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:16 AM   #18
steven765
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So I'm waiting again on more parts to be coated, once the last round of brackets are in that will complete the engine bay. I'm making the drive to base next week to install the whiteline rear differential bushings. I also need to find my camera, i moved states and well organization has gone to ****.

As for sound at idle you don't notice much of a change, though the fumes are a lot more noxious :/ and tend to fill the trunk. 3rd gear i really hear it when i push past 4k RPM, curise at 65 is still about the same, you hear the exhaust when you give it gas, it's almost a tinny sound which makes sense the borla and strommung are much tinner walled then the OE... also lighter.

Last edited by steven765; 09-13-2012 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:39 PM   #19
Baja_Gernaut
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updates on your rebuilt engine?
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:24 AM   #20
steven765
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sorry have more pictures and interesting things i've found out.

I installed the fluidampr, bit of a difference in engine vibration. Also discovered that CCR forgot the timing belt retainer.

Last edited by steven765; 10-07-2012 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:37 PM   #21
steven765
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So I just posted more pics above, I've had the brakes powder coated and just waiting for the seal kit to come in. I also have to replace the rear hubs becuase they're humming. So rear brakes, hubs, and stainless steel brake lines will all be done at once.

Up front I'm waitnig on a new alternator, I've had the cages powder coated, but the inner electronics are starting to go, no use installing them on this one. I'm also getting new control arms and bushings. I think I'll have the arms coated blue. Also the tranny bushing is coming in. That will take care of everything I plan to do with the driveline / engine except I may clean up the power steering pump, It's just so dirty looking hah.

I also install the fluidampr, I lost some time on the spool up, but the engine idles much nicer at 90MPH you can barely tell it's on when you put your hand on the stick.

Other fun things I've learned, DO NOT install silicone tubing for the PCV line, there is too much oil inside it. It will swell and break down. The valve cover lines appear fine so far with 5k on the engine.

So as for my goal of increased MPG, I'm averaging 25 in the city. 29ish,mpg on highway at 75mph, 34mpg at 50mph tonight taking back roads home instead of the interstate.
Multiple trips over the green mountains so far, typically getting there at 28-29MPG, without holding back on the gas, 72 interstate, 62 secondary roads. I definatley get a bump using the no ethanol gas. I think the engine is running a little rich however. I've been watching the AFR and it hovers around 14.3-6 range, I would think that it should be in the 14.7-15 range which is sticho for normal gas, unless the 06 ecu was remapped for e10 then it would make sense.

Last edited by steven765; 10-21-2012 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:09 AM   #22
steven765
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Finally got the alternator done and working. The screws have to be insanely tight, if they work loose or aren't tight enough it won't charge! Even if there are zero ohms to ground, if the screws are not tight it will not charge, drove me nuts for a month trying to figure that out!!

Pics.


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