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Old 06-23-2012, 11:55 PM   #12876
ST Eye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky View Post
I'm gonna have to check out these security tork bolts. No garage for me, just city side driveway & there's no outlet anywhere close enough for a solder tool use. & I actually remove mine often... so I think that would be a pain in the ass for me. There's really no NEED to remove them, but with the moonroof open all the way it's pretty loud with them on when not in use.
I would go with a set of security bolts myself. However if a thief wants your cross bars, he'll get them!
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:58 PM   #12877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01

I know it should be intuitively obvious, but how did you go about removing the trim pieces? Where did you find it easiest to start prying out the trim? What tool did you use, if any?

It should be easy, but I'm something of a bull in a china shop when it comes to removing plastic snap-in trim, and generally end up breaking something in the process.
I was able to pry them off very easily. I started from the thinned out top, outside corner... got my fingers in there & they came off easily. Popped right back on in a snap too.





Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky
put the fog overlays on. bought them on ebay pre-cut, $7.99 free shipping from US seller. came with 3 in case you make a mistake on one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150681701687...84.m1497.l2649

my first time working with the vinyl & up close they're not perfect, but i think i did alright. i will say, you may want to go with the option to buy a sheet & cut them yourself. with the pre-cut, there's not much wiggle room & if they shift even slightly during application you may have an exposed edge, so if you can cut them just a hair too big you'll have a small lip to apply around the edge if you need to.
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:01 AM   #12878
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I've had standard racks without locks on the cross bars on all my cars for the past 26 years, and not once has anything been taken. They will more quickly bust a lock and take a bike or skis than taking the base rack. There is no market out there for car specific cross bars....

I feel all that needed locking, and what not, for the bases is unnecessary. Simply requiring a torx or allen wrench is enough to discourage someone...if they want something, they want it fast.

I doubt the "solder security" is truly necessary...unless we are talking about the Zombie Apocalypse :-)....

But that is just my opinion....in the end, if they truly want it, they will get it. The solder or a locking torn bolt will only frustrate them, maybe causing them to actually damage the car more out of frustration. Just a thought
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:47 AM   #12879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky View Post
I was able to pry them off very easily. I started from the thinned out top, outside corner... got my fingers in there & they came off easily. Popped right back on in a snap too.
Looks great. Where did you get your yellow material?

And you say you started with the top corner closest to the wheels, right? Once you got your fingers in there, did you work your way down the vertical edge of the trim piece toward the ground, rather than working along the top edge of the trim piece toward the front of the car?

I'm sorry for asking so many stupid questions, but like I said earlier, I've had really bad luck in the past when removing trim. Something always gets bent or broken....
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:18 AM   #12880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03Indigo
I've had standard racks without locks on the cross bars on all my cars for the past 26 years, and not once has anything been taken. They will more quickly bust a lock and take a bike or skis than taking the base rack. There is no market out there for car specific cross bars....

I feel all that needed locking, and what not, for the bases is unnecessary. Simply requiring a torx or allen wrench is enough to discourage someone...if they want something, they want it fast.

I doubt the "solder security" is truly necessary...unless we are talking about the Zombie Apocalypse :-)....

But that is just my opinion....in the end, if they truly want it, they will get it. The solder or a locking torn bolt will only frustrate them, maybe causing them to actually damage the car more out of frustration. Just a thought
This very true, but having my yakima ski/board rack on top an unsecured bar makes an easy target to just take the bars off without even focusing on my board. Unless I'm not seeing something here... I'm sure subie thought about this...
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:21 AM   #12881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Looks great. Where did you get your yellow material?
Hey Steve, the link to the overlay material is in post above:

Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNMnky put the fog overlays on. bought them on ebay pre-cut, $7.99 free shipping from US seller. came with 3 in case you make a mistake on one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150681701687...84.m1497.l2649
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:25 AM   #12882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01

Looks great. Where did you get your yellow material?

And you say you started with the top corner closest to the wheels, right? Once you got your fingers in there, did you work your way down the vertical edge of the trim piece toward the ground, rather than working along the top edge of the trim piece toward the front of the car?

I'm sorry for asking so many stupid questions, but like I said earlier, I've had really bad luck in the past when removing trim. Something always gets bent or broken....
I actually had a little plastic blackberry tool (just to pry plastic apart. similar to the plastic hook you get at home depot to get the lid off the paint). I used that to be safe. The fog surround is kind of soft plastic so be easy on it, but something small to get that corner up, yes the pointy corner near the wheel. The fog surround literally snaps into place with tabs, no brackets or clips. Once you get one corner somewhat free the rest just came off for me with a slight pull. Doesn't matter which way you go with the pull.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:14 PM   #12883
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what sleepnmnky said. I just did mine today. just get the corner started and the rest pulls out really really easy, the radio trim takes a lot more force than these panels do.

I got my headlight armor fog covers installed. they look pretty good, but i couldn't figure out how to not get them to crease/bubble. they are cut perfectly if you were laying them flat, which the round face is not, so as I smoothed everything it out all the extra just kinda ended up in 2 areas, and I did my best to get them to smooth out, there are minor bubbles/creasing, which you can't see greater than 3feet away so i guess if i have issues I will get replacements.

but they are really really thick, 20mil, so that might be part of it right there.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:38 PM   #12884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
what sleepnmnky said. I just did mine today. just get the corner started and the rest pulls out really really easy, the radio trim takes a lot more force than these panels do.

I got my headlight armor fog covers installed. they look pretty good, but i couldn't figure out how to not get them to crease/bubble. they are cut perfectly if you were laying them flat, which the round face is not, so as I smoothed everything it out all the extra just kinda ended up in 2 areas, and I did my best to get them to smooth out, there are minor bubbles/creasing, which you can't see greater than 3feet away so i guess if i have issues I will get replacements.

but they are really really thick, 20mil, so that might be part of it right there.
When I installed my set, I had to use a hair dryer to pull the film around the convex surface. This is why I liked the sheet of material as you can cut the film large and it allows you to pull and stretch it over the surface.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:31 AM   #12885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST Eye
When I installed my set, I had to use a hair dryer to pull the film around the convex surface. This is why I liked the sheet of material as you can cut the film large and it allows you to pull and stretch it over the surface.
I probably should have done that,, maybe next time.

They look cool, not sure how functional it is though
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:05 AM   #12886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
I probably should have done that,, maybe next time.

They look cool, not sure how functional it is though
it's not too late, go hit it with a hair dryer now and they will tighten up a bit.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:00 PM   #12887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper

it's not too late, go hit it with a hair dryer now and they will tighten up a bit.
After i installed them, i turned on the lights for 3-4 minutes, that seemed to heat them up pretty well
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:33 PM   #12888
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Test drove the brz yesterday while having my scubie's oil change. Got so excited posted in the wrong thread lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shotokan07
Test drove the brz today. Had a huge grin on my face coming back in the lot after doing 120 on the expressway.

Gave back the key finished with it like i would to a cheap ..... . Lol
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:26 PM   #12889
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Any news on the changes for the 2013 Impreza? I don't expect it to be radically different, but I'm curious what minor tweaks are going to be done. Someone said the reverse camera will be on the limited, that is all I have heard.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:25 PM   #12890
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I waxed my car last weekend, can't notice much by looking at it on SWP but it feels smooth as glass and the bugs are SO much easier to clean off, just spray with water and wipe with a towel and they come right off. At the very least I'll definitely be waxing the front bumper regularly.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:47 PM   #12891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunty View Post
At the very least I'll definitely be waxing the front bumper regularly.
Good move. You guys in MN have horse flies the size of Imprezas. They'll take your clear coat right off if you hit them head first.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:33 PM   #12892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunty View Post
I waxed my car last weekend, can't notice much by looking at it on SWP but it feels smooth as glass and the bugs are SO much easier to clean off, just spray with water and wipe with a towel and they come right off. At the very least I'll definitely be waxing the front bumper regularly.
Yea, I waxed mine the day after I brought it home. Some people feel you're supposed to wait months after a new car is manufactured before waxing, but I hear this is an old wives tale. I believe auto manufacturers use water-based paints these days that is totally cured within 48 hours after the car is painted.

This is my first black car ever, so I'm tempted to give Zano a try. I've never used it before, but I think on a black car the result might be more noticeable than with other colors. Since applying Zano would require removing the wax I just put on 3 days ago, I'll probably wait awhile before experimenting with Zano.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:57 PM   #12893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
This is my first black car ever, so I'm tempted to give Zano a try. I've never used it before, but I think on a black car the result might be more noticeable than with other colors. Since applying Zano would require removing the wax I just put on 3 days ago, I'll probably wait awhile before experimenting with Zano.
Zaino works great with black paint! I liked how it worked with my MBP Impreza...

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Old 06-26-2012, 09:06 PM   #12894
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I have used Zaino in the past, it works pretty well. I used to live by the only place that sells it locally in NJ. Stuff is pretty expensive, but the coat lasts pretty long.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:06 PM   #12895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BazookaBlue View Post
Zaino works great with black paint! I liked how it worked with my MBP Impreza...
Looks great! Is it hard to prep the car for Zaino? I get the impression that Zaino is easy to apply; is that true? How often do you reapply Zaino, and how can you tell that it needs to be reapplied? With wax, you can tell by how well it beads water, but I don't know about Zaino.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:12 PM   #12896
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Very easy to apply, it is a pretty thin liquid that goes on and comes off with not much elbow grease. I usually put three coats on, and I would wax my car every few months. Then I got lazy.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:28 PM   #12897
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I know its minor but this is the first damage I have encountered and needed some help and advice on lowering my blood pressure...

How do you repair gun metal rims??

I have no clue on where to start.


photo (2) by jmaiden91184, on Flickr


photo (1) by jmaiden91184, on Flickr
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:34 PM   #12898
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You can see if duplicolor touch-up has anything that is gunmetal. Since it is only on the very edge of the wheel, you can touch it up with something close and it should mask it pretty well.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:47 PM   #12899
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You can see if duplicolor touch-up has anything that is gunmetal. Since it is only on the very edge of the wheel, you can touch it up with something close and it should mask it pretty well.
Emailed SOA if they had a color code for the rim. If not I did buy touch paint for my dark grey metallic. I might add that on if I don't get any results within the next week.
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #12900
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Can anyone post up a photo of the headlight adjustment screws?

My headlights when I bought the car seemed to be aimed high which was confirmed by frequently being flashed by oncoming cars. The dealer I took it the first time to take a look at it said that it was set within the legal specifications and that it matched up with the others Imprezas and therefore didn't do anything. I was going to live with that, but got flashed some more that very night and more so since then. Took my car to the another dealer today for them to adjust it (within the legal limits of course) and now they are aimed way too low. Literally cannot see anything beyond 20-25 feet in front of me and that is while driving in the city with a fair amount of ambient light. Can't imagine driving out on a forest road or mountain road at night the way they are aimed right now. Planning on taking it back to the dealer to have it adjusted again, but would be helpful to know where the adjustment screws are located regardless. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: My feeling and based on the cars I've had in the past is that when stopped at a typical distance (2-4 feet) behind a regular sedan, the top of the beam pattern should be at mid-level of the truck of the sedan. As of right now, the top of the beam pattern given my headlights are barely above the bottom of the bumper.

Last edited by jrands; 06-27-2012 at 12:42 AM.
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