Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8

What is your take on already mixed paint like http://www.automotivetouchup.com/aut..._basecoat.aspx

I'm looking for some to respray my bumper

I would suggest going to your local auto body supply store to purchase paint. I'm not doubting the quality, I bet it's decent. I would however avoid getting that Transtar clear they offer.

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[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by E85FTW

Take the dealer on there offer, it will match if they repaint everything at once. It looks like the person who painted the bumper shot the spray to close on the foglight cover..

That would be a good choice, but considering it is a tri-coat where would they blend? To the edge, then have a possible color difference from bumper/fender?

OP I would suggest just leaving it. It's a bumper and will get chipped up, eventually forgetting about a slight discoloration. This color has a reputation of being hard to match and having them repaint the whole bumper could turn into a can of worms.

Congrats on the new car!

[dericn]

Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

OP I would suggest just leaving it. It's a bumper and will get chipped up, eventually forgetting about a slight discoloration. This color has a reputation of being hard to match and having them repaint the whole bumper could turn into a can of worms

Thanks for the reply Matt. I did a quick Google image search for 'swp wrx', and see a similar mismatch on other cars. HERE'S one example. Notice how you don't see it until you LOOK for it? It really seems to depend on how the light hits it.

I have no idea how experienced their paint shop is, so I think I may just leave well enough alone. With my luck, it will end up looking WORSE! I probably would have never noticed it if my nephew didn't point it out. Of course, now I can't HELP but notice it...

The bumper is already collecting 90MPH bug strikes, and the damned birds have gone out of their way to 'christen' every other square inch of paint, so this minor flaw will be forgotten soon enough.

Maybe I should just plasti-dip the fogs black... Then they REALLY won't match the bumper!...

-Eric

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by dericn

Thanks for the reply Matt. I did a quick Google image search for 'swp wrx', and see a similar mismatch on other cars. HERE'S one example. Notice how you don't see it until you LOOK for it? It really seems to depend on how the light hits it.

I have no idea how experienced their paint shop is, so I think I may just leave well enough alone. With my luck, it will end up looking WORSE! I probably would have never noticed it if my nephew didn't point it out. Of course, now I can't HELP but notice it...

The bumper is already collecting 90MPH bug strikes, and the damned birds have gone out of their way to 'christen' every other square inch of paint, so this minor flaw will be forgotten soon enough.

Maybe I should just plasti-dip the fogs black... Then they REALLY won't match the bumper!...

-Eric

No problem, tri-coat can be tricky sometimes.

Please don't plasti dip them.

[OgBL6]

Hello, I just picked up a 2011 DGM 2.5i sedan this week
Hood has crazy swirls/scratches, nothing deep at all but if you look close enough you can see them
used some ice liquid wax & it kinda hid them but they're still there
is there anyway i can get rid of those by hand, or would i need a buffer?
types of wax?

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by OgBL6

Hello, I just picked up a 2011 DGM 2.5i sedan this week
Hood has crazy swirls/scratches, nothing deep at all but if you look close enough you can see them
used some ice liquid wax & it kinda hid them but they're still there
is there anyway i can get rid of those by hand, or would i need a buffer?
types of wax?

Congrats on the new car. The detailer probably did a quick detail to get the car out. Odds are you will need to use a high speed rotary buffer, or orbital with compound to remove the scratches. Wax will only hide the scratches, not remove them. A decent sealant will remove the swirls. I'd ask in the car care forum, they have all the detailing answers over there.

[tssmith11]

Can anyone help me with this problem?

Bought a 2005 wrx with a kakumei rear widebody kit on it. The dude who installed it must have done something wrong because small cracks started showing up. Wile at school they only got worse, and I couldn't do anything to fix it because I had no garage. I am finally ready to take the kit off, fix everything up and put it back on.
My question is about paint chipping agian. I plan on using 3m panel bond and from what I have read, it should work great. Do you have any advice for me? also, I am not sure how it will look molded/not molded and I feel like molding it guarantees eventual paint chipping. If you think it should be molded, I'm not even sure where to start because I wasn't planning on doing that originally
Any advice would be appreciated

edit: also, where there are cracks, there is rust :/

[03Rextacy]

I have no advice in the respect of Repair work. But I'd like to give my .02 here. You're already starting over, don't skip the step of not molding it. Molding it would bring sheer perfection to the
Car. Make it look like its supposed to be there. No some civic hack job (no offense to anyone).

[tssmith11]

but it will crack if I mold it. then it will have to be done again.... that seems like an endless and pointless circle

[03Rextacy]

Originally Posted by tssmith11

but it will crack if I mold it. then it will have to be done again.... that seems like an endless and pointless circle

There has to be a way, I mean it's
Obviously been done ya know? In any case, it's your car. Do what fits your taste. I'm just a guy with an opinion.

[tssmith11]

anyone have advice/techniques for molding without eventual cracking?

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by tssmith11

Can anyone help me with this problem?

Bought a 2005 wrx with a kakumei rear widebody kit on it. The dude who installed it must have done something wrong because small cracks started showing up. Wile at school they only got worse, and I couldn't do anything to fix it because I had no garage. I am finally ready to take the kit off, fix everything up and put it back on.
My question is about paint chipping agian. I plan on using 3m panel bond and from what I have read, it should work great. Do you have any advice for me? also, I am not sure how it will look molded/not molded and I feel like molding it guarantees eventual paint chipping. If you think it should be molded, I'm not even sure where to start because I wasn't planning on doing that originally
Any advice would be appreciated

edit: also, where there are cracks, there is rust :/

Sounds like the previous installer put the kit on incorrectly. I would suggest molding the kit, a riveted wide body always looks unfinished. The problem with attaching fiberglass panels to metal is the difference in thermal expansion of the materials. Use the 3M panel bond correctly and there should not be any problems. Here's a link to help:

http://www.3m.com.au/intl/au/auto_ma..._Wallchart.pdf

Follow that for the application, then use a fiberglass style filler for any seams. Smooth with a flexible polyester, then prime.

I'm currently installing an Aerosim wide body on my GC and will have the process here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2374401

Let me know if you have any specific questions, this is an extremely broad topic and you might want to wait for my write up to be done.

Post pictures of these cracks/rusted areas.

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by 03Rextacy

I have no advice in the respect of Repair work. But I'd like to give my .02 here. You're already starting over, don't skip the step of not molding it. Molding it would bring sheer perfection to the
Car. Make it look like its supposed to be there. No some civic hack job (no offense to anyone).

Great advice, but it is very difficult process. A "factory looking" aftermarket fiberglass wide body is a challenge to even the most experienced body man.

[03Rextacy]

Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

Great advice, but it is very difficult process. A "factory looking" aftermarket fiberglass wide body is a challenge to even the most experienced body man.

I can dream can't I. Lol. But I understand. I have a mindset of if I want it, one way or another it will get done. But I know what you're saying.

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by 03Rextacy

I can dream can't I. Lol. But I understand. I have a mindset of if I want it, one way or another it will get done. But I know what you're saying.

I'm not looking to ruin anyones dreams, and with an attitude like that one day you'll have a wide bodied wrx. Check that link I posted and in a couple weeks should have a pretty good write up.

[tssmith11]

Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

Sounds like the previous installer put the kit on incorrectly. I would suggest molding the kit, a riveted wide body always looks unfinished. The problem with attaching fiberglass panels to metal is the difference in thermal expansion of the materials. Use the 3M panel bond correctly and there should not be any problems. Here's a link to help:

http://www.3m.com.au/intl/au/auto_ma..._Wallchart.pdf

Follow that for the application, then use a fiberglass style filler for any seams. Smooth with a flexible polyester, then prime.

I'm currently installing an Aerosim wide body on my GC and will have the process here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2374401

Let me know if you have any specific questions, this is an extremely broad topic and you might want to wait for my write up to be done.

Post pictures of these cracks/rusted areas.

I never intended on leaving it riveted, just to attach the panels with panel bond as shown in the wallchart and painting over like that. So the kit looks more flared than a smooth transition.
I think with this situation I will attach the panels like I originally intended and then see how they look and update this forum as I go.
As for pictures of the rust... i'll get some tomorrow when its sunny.

Thanks for the help, its really appreciated

[MattTHEpainter]

Anyone need some auto body help?

[tssmith11]

Alright sorry it took so long.

Here's pictures of the body kit...
left side is much worse than the right.
these are all left side...



these are all right side.. gas tank is ok, I dont think i'm going to remove it.





Here are all of the tools I plan on using. (not pictured - roloc clean n strip disc)



Matt, I saw in your widebody write up that the car had duct tape holding the panels on, do you think I should go that route rather than trying to use the C-clamps? I really only think that the 18" clamp will fit around the kit and the door....

Here's my thoughts, please let me know what you think.
1. use the clean n strip along all sides of the body kit so that I can see bare metal and exactly where it attaches.
2. Use sharp knife to cut underneath kit and free it from the body (not sure about this step.. might work since kit is coming off a little already...)
3. once entire kit is removed, grind down any rusted metal with roloc clean n strip OR grinding disc (will either work?)
4. smooth out edges of body kit, get paint off around the edges, and clean with my 3m cleaner.
5. mount kit to make sure proper fit (i'm not too worried about this step, it should fit fine, given that not too much is taken off when cleaning.)
6. tape off edge where panel bond will be applied, and apply rust fighter to entire area underneath the body kit.
7. remove tape and begin applying panel bond, smooth out the bead so that it reaches the edge of the area where rust fighter was applied, then place another bead on top.
(I've seen how to's on the application of the panel bond and think i'll be okay with that part.. the only confusing part to me is the rust fighter, in all of the instructions it is applied last which doesn't make sense because the body kit will be covering areas that need it..?)
8. secure body kit to car with either clamps or duct tape.

please let me know what you think and thanks again!

[tssmith11]

gas tank picture didn't make it...
links not working for whatever reason, you'll have to trust me that its alright

edit: this should work

[Tanktheory]

Wow, that's depressing. Good luck with that, make sure to slap the PO in the face with a sea bass when you're done.

[MakuseruSukotto]

I recently swapped trunks with someone, and the new trunk was keyed by his ex-wife.

Pretty deep gouges, he tried to touch them up, but it doesn't quite look right.

Suggestions? (Ill get pictures tomorrow when its daylight.)

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by tssmith11

Here's my thoughts, please let me know what you think.
1. use the clean n strip along all sides of the body kit so that I can see bare metal and exactly where it attaches.
2. Use sharp knife to cut underneath kit and free it from the body (not sure about this step.. might work since kit is coming off a little already...)
3. once entire kit is removed, grind down any rusted metal with roloc clean n strip OR grinding disc (will either work?)
4. smooth out edges of body kit, get paint off around the edges, and clean with my 3m cleaner.
5. mount kit to make sure proper fit (i'm not too worried about this step, it should fit fine, given that not too much is taken off when cleaning.)
6. tape off edge where panel bond will be applied, and apply rust fighter to entire area underneath the body kit.
7. remove tape and begin applying panel bond, smooth out the bead so that it reaches the edge of the area where rust fighter was applied, then place another bead on top.
(I've seen how to's on the application of the panel bond and think i'll be okay with that part.. the only confusing part to me is the rust fighter, in all of the instructions it is applied last which doesn't make sense because the body kit will be covering areas that need it..?)
8. secure body kit to car with either clamps or duct tape.

please let me know what you think and thanks again!

1. Clean and strip will just create a mess, and possible warp the fiberglass. What did the previous owner use to mold the kit? I would use a die grinder to grind away any material, but not too deep to scratch the metal below.
2. I don't know what was used to bond the over fenders, but using a sharpened putty knife would be my first option. If a proper adhesive was used, this may not work. Let me know.
3. Use the roloc, just don't use it on one area for too long or you could warp the metal.
4-7. Just follow the directions outline in the flow diagram.
8. I used the duct tape just to check it out, that will not be how a hold the over fender while bonding. You need to use a method that creates a tight seal to the body. I would suggest either rivets or using Cleco fasteners.

I would also refinish both sides, there is no sense to repair the left and not the right.

[MattTHEpainter]

Originally Posted by MakuseruSukotto

I recently swapped trunks with someone, and the new trunk was keyed by his ex-wife.

Pretty deep gouges, he tried to touch them up, but it doesn't quite look right.

Suggestions? (Ill get pictures tomorrow when its daylight.)

Post some pictures and there might be some tricks to "hide" them a little. If they are deep a repaint might be your only option.

[WRXJunky]

Howdy Matt,

Question: How much do you think it will cost to install a paint-matched 2012 STI spoiler onto a 2012 WRX that has the stock premium wing? (Filling the holes, drilling new ones, etc...)

Ew:


to:

Ah!


Thanks Matt!

[MakuseruSukotto]

Originally Posted by WRXJunky

Howdy Matt,

Question: How much do you think it will cost to install a paint-matched 2012 STI spoiler onto a 2012 WRX that has the stock premium wing? (Filling the holes, drilling new ones, etc...)

Ew:


to:

Ah!


Thanks Matt!

You'd be better off just to try and trunk swap with someone.