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Old 07-12-2012, 04:39 PM   #201
chet24
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How do you buff out touch up paint? I just filled in a few chips and one decent scratch and I am trying to get them to blend in, and I need to know what to use so I don't buy $100 worth of useless stuff.


I realize I'm not a pro and maybe I screwed up already, but this is my first car and I am not too worried about it. I'm more looking for experience to take better care of a future car.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:00 PM   #202
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXJunky View Post
Howdy Matt,

Question: How much do you think it will cost to install a paint-matched 2012 STI spoiler onto a 2012 WRX that has the stock premium wing? (Filling the holes, drilling new ones, etc...)


Thanks Matt!
I agree with your decision to change spoilers. I charged around $350 for this (shave all the holes, and refinish):

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2285606

In addition you need a wing painted and a few holes drilled. I would venture a middle of the road estimate of around $750 at any decent body shop. This does vary region to region, so call around and find an economical shop with a good reputation.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #203
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chet24 View Post
How do you buff out touch up paint? I just filled in a few chips and one decent scratch and I am trying to get them to blend in, and I need to know what to use so I don't buy $100 worth of useless stuff.


I realize I'm not a pro and maybe I screwed up already, but this is my first car and I am not too worried about it. I'm more looking for experience to take better care of a future car.
You didn't do a bad job, and from a few feet back I'm sure it's barely noticeable. Touch up paint will yield a decent result, but far from perfection.

To "buff it out" try to fill the chip/scratch with paint, and slowly build up the level to the surrounding paint. Dab/fully cure/dab/repeat. Avoid getting a lot of rouge paint on the surrounding clear. Once the paint is cured you can try to wet sand with 2000 grit, use a block to sand flat, then buff with a rotary buffer and compound.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:28 PM   #204
chet24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

You didn't do a bad job, and from a few feet back I'm sure it's barely noticeable. Touch up paint will yield a decent result, but far from perfection.

To "buff it out" try to fill the chip/scratch with paint, and slowly build up the level to the surrounding paint. Dab/fully cure/dab/repeat. Avoid getting a lot of rouge paint on the surrounding clear. Once the paint is cured you can try to wet sand with 2000 grit, use a block to sand flat, then buff with a rotary buffer and compound.
I found an online tutorial, and I am floored at how much better it looks, almost brand new. My bumper actually had a massive scrape through the primer, into the vinyl, and I was going to pay someone to fix that. I can't believe I almost paid someone hundreds of dollars to fix this... 2000 grit wet sand, meguiar's ultimate compound with a cheap drill attachment I had from a headlight restoration, followed by a wax. It looks really good... And it was so easy!
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #205
MattTHEpainter
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Awesome, I'm glad I was close with my assessment. I rarely use a touch up brush. Post a before and after picture if you have one.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:45 PM   #206
chet24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter
Awesome, I'm glad I was close with my assessment. I rarely use a touch up brush. Post a before and after picture if you have one.
I don't have a before, because I didn't realize the difference it would be. I'll post an after pic and see of anyone can pick out where the scrapes were.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #207
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I am getting a new rear bumper installed, and the body shop I am using has agreed to prime and spray my STI fog light covers if I prepped them.

I do not have an STI, and I do not want to pretend like I do have an STI, so I used a razor blade to remove the decals.

I bought 180, 600, and 1000 grit sandpaper.

Here are the results after finishing with 180. I do not have a before picture, but there were the typical rock chips you would expect from a CA car.

How should I approach it from here? I am afraid I might have feathered it out too much already and reached the bare plastic.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 07-14-2012, 09:45 PM   #208
deathnerve
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Default hit and run

A couple weeks ago my car was sidewipped drivers side no note (hit and run). I will be responsible for the deductible of $500 and trying to save i would like to make an attempt at some of the repairs myself.

Damage is is very minor: 08 subaru forester xt sports steel silver metalic

-driver side rear door damaged lower 50% of door is buckled in 15% of this pushed in 1"+
-a scratch/scuff mark about 1/2 inch thick line pretty deep into paint and some point to metal. this line is horizontal running though rear quarter and rear door at door handle heght(possible other car door handle was the cause). It makes it onto the front drivers door starting seam between door 3" into front door maybe to front door handle only.
- drivers side mirror no paint damege only broken glass and cracked blinker lens

I was thinking i could
-replace just miror glass on drivers side mirror, leave cracked blinker lens for now (blinker still working,power mirror functioning with no damge to paint or housing)
- find rear door from salvage yard (from what ive been told subaru doesn't have replacement door skins)then bolt on myself
- DIY minor body work to scratch/scuff
- then bring to body shop for repaint

MY questions
Is this logical to save money
If door from salvage is a different color does this create a much bigger expense (strip door of all inner card/hardware and glass for paint)
Roughly how much to repaint drivers side of vehicle
would it be better if used salvaged door was off car for painting
Do auto body shops allow me to remove handles, weather strip, tail light to help reduce cost of prep work

Am I missing anything

Matt the painter any interest or recommendation for repaint?

about me - I have had only average/below experience with auto body shops never really good. Last place my wifes car was repaired returned the car to me with overspray 12'" beyond damage in both directions, over 25 small grit bubbles (dirt debris under paint). This shop took the car back and apologized to me for letting his 70 year old Dad original owner work on our car. The car looked better after 2 attempts and 35 days, and had less damage then explained above but similiar on passengers side. I can see the rear door on her car was not replaced and only repaired bondo cause of the imperfections/waves

sorry for the long winded post any input would go greatly appreciated, this stinks because this is the first car i ever had that i enjoy after 19 years of driving
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:49 PM   #209
deathnerve
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Default hit and run

I have some pictures posted over on subaruforester.org search hit and run if interested.

same user name
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:39 PM   #210
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extransam View Post
I am getting a new rear bumper installed, and the body shop I am using has agreed to prime and spray my STI fog light covers if I prepped them.

I do not have an STI, and I do not want to pretend like I do have an STI, so I used a razor blade to remove the decals.

I bought 180, 600, and 1000 grit sandpaper.

Here are the results after finishing with 180. I do not have a before picture, but there were the typical rock chips you would expect from a CA car.

How should I approach it from here? I am afraid I might have feathered it out too much already and reached the bare plastic.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Using 180 to start was way too aggressive. You will need to use 220, 320, 400 wet to feather out any scratches left from the 180. After getting the covers smoothed out, get some etching primer and apply as directed. The black showing is the bare plastic and a typical primer will not adhear properly to that.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #211
infinite012
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Orange peel question:

When spray paint in a can is sprayed onto a part, it will leave noticeable orange peel. Am I right to think that if I continue with a couple of color coats and then a couple of clear coats (2 light, 1 or 2 heavy) and wet sand with 3000 grit, that would level out the orange peel and I'll have a smooth, mirror-like finish?
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:14 PM   #212
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathnerve View Post
A couple weeks ago my car was sidewipped drivers side no note (hit and run). I will be responsible for the deductible of $500 and trying to save i would like to make an attempt at some of the repairs myself.

Damage is is very minor: 08 subaru forester xt sports steel silver metalic

-driver side rear door damaged lower 50% of door is buckled in 15% of this pushed in 1"+
-a scratch/scuff mark about 1/2 inch thick line pretty deep into paint and some point to metal. this line is horizontal running though rear quarter and rear door at door handle heght(possible other car door handle was the cause). It makes it onto the front drivers door starting seam between door 3" into front door maybe to front door handle only.
- drivers side mirror no paint damege only broken glass and cracked blinker lens

I was thinking i could
-replace just miror glass on drivers side mirror, leave cracked blinker lens for now (blinker still working,power mirror functioning with no damge to paint or housing)
- find rear door from salvage yard (from what ive been told subaru doesn't have replacement door skins)then bolt on myself
- DIY minor body work to scratch/scuff
- then bring to body shop for repaint

MY questions
Is this logical to save money
If door from salvage is a different color does this create a much bigger expense (strip door of all inner card/hardware and glass for paint)
Roughly how much to repaint drivers side of vehicle
would it be better if used salvaged door was off car for painting
Do auto body shops allow me to remove handles, weather strip, tail light to help reduce cost of prep work

Am I missing anything

Matt the painter any interest or recommendation for repaint?

about me - I have had only average/below experience with auto body shops never really good. Last place my wifes car was repaired returned the car to me with overspray 12'" beyond damage in both directions, over 25 small grit bubbles (dirt debris under paint). This shop took the car back and apologized to me for letting his 70 year old Dad original owner work on our car. The car looked better after 2 attempts and 35 days, and had less damage then explained above but similiar on passengers side. I can see the rear door on her car was not replaced and only repaired bondo cause of the imperfections/waves

sorry for the long winded post any input would go greatly appreciated, this stinks because this is the first car i ever had that i enjoy after 19 years of driving
It seems like you care about your car, and I'm sorry about the inconsiderate person that hit it. I would highly recommend you going through your insurance, and sourcing out a reputable shop to do the work. Post in your local forum and find an auto body shop that does quality work. If you take the check and purchase the parts on your own it could end up being more than the check insurance is going to issue. Then you would not be able to receive a supplemental check from insurance to cover the remainder.

That aside to answer your questions:
*You could end up saving a little money sourcing the parts yourself, and doing the body work...but this could easily turn into a headache. Without having proper experience you could cause more damage to your car, and the end result could be an unsatisfactory finish.
*Yes, if you got a different color door the "edging in" process will be more labor. Search Car-parts.com and you may get lucky with a door the same color.
*To refinish the entire side I would venture a guess of $750-1500, really depends on the shop.
*Most decent body shops do not like touching a car after the customer has began the repair process. They will not be able to warranty any work if they didn't do the complete job. I use the analogy, "would you bring a steak you seasoned to a restaurant and ask them to cook it for you?". They're could be a shop that would work with you with pricing based on what you have accomplished, but I would avoid that.

Sorry to hear about the crappy body shop experiences, and that is just unacceptable. Like I previously stated, do some research and find a shop with an excellent reputation.

I looked at the pictures and suggest leaving it up to insurance and a body shop, but let me know if you have any other questions.

Last edited by MattTHEpainter; 07-14-2012 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:22 PM   #213
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinite012 View Post
Orange peel question:

When spray paint in a can is sprayed onto a part, it will leave noticeable orange peel. Am I right to think that if I continue with a couple of color coats and then a couple of clear coats (2 light, 1 or 2 heavy) and wet sand with 3000 grit, that would level out the orange peel and I'll have a smooth, mirror-like finish?
I'm not well versed in spray can refinishing, but have applied base coat with a can before. Apply light coats of base, just enough to cover. Many people apply the base too thick and it will become "orange peeled". As for the clear, achieving a "mirror-like finish" is difficult with a lacquer based top coat. Spray 2-3 medium/wet coats, no light coats. Then use 2000/1500 wet sand paper depending on level of imperfections. Buff with a high speed rotary and compound, this should smooth out any peel.

What are you painting?
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:29 PM   #214
thildwrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

It seems like you care about your car, and I'm sorry about the inconsiderate person that hit it. I would highly recommend you going through your insurance, and sourcing out a reputable shop to do the work. Post in your local forum and find an auto body shop that does quality work. If you take the check and purchase the parts on your own it could end up being more than the check insurance is going to issue. Then you would not be able to receive a supplemental check from insurance to cover the remainder.

That aside to answer your questions:
*You could end up saving a little money sourcing the parts yourself, and doing the body work...but this could easily turn into a headache. Without having proper experience you could cause more damage to your car, and the end result could be an unsatisfactory finish.
*Yes, if you got a different color door the "edging in" process will be more labor. Search Car-parts.com and you may get lucky with a door the same color.
*To refinish the entire side I would venture a guess of $750-1500, really depends on the shop.
*Most decent body shops do not like touching a car after the customer has began the repair process. They will not be able to warranty any work if they didn't do the complete job. I use the analogy, "would you bring a steak you seasoned to a restaurant and ask them to cook it for you?". They're could be a shop that would work with you with pricing based on what you have accomplished, but I would avoid that.

Sorry to hear about the crappy body shop experiences, and that is just unacceptable. Like I previously stated, do some research and find a shop with an excellent reputation.

I looked at the pictures and suggest leaving it up to insurance and a body shop, but let me know if you have any other questions.
I'm an estimator at a shop in redding ca. I agree with your assessment. Defiantly go through the insurance and have a good shop fix the car it will be money better spent in the long run. I would recommend asking if the shop will work with you on your deductible. We work with people whenever we can. Let me know of you have any questions.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #215
infinite012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

I'm not well versed in spray can refinishing, but have applied base coat with a can before. Apply light coats of base, just enough to cover. Many people apply the base too thick and it will become "orange peeled". As for the clear, achieving a "mirror-like finish" is difficult with a lacquer based top coat. Spray 2-3 medium/wet coats, no light coats. Then use 2000/1500 wet sand paper depending on level of imperfections. Buff with a high speed rotary and compound, this should smooth out any peel.

What are you painting?
Interior bits on my STI.
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:29 PM   #216
03Rextacy
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Figured I could put this here for you WRB owners. For light touch ups, Knicks or scratches, stumbled across this in my GFs stuff, seems to be a perfect match for my car, and haven't had any issues with it. I know touch up paint is hard to come by sometimes when you need it that second, so I just keep this in the detailing kit in the trunk. Yes, she's been looking for it, and no, she won't be getting it back. Lol

From the looks of it, it looks rough and blotchy, but it spreads perfectly to match our color.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:09 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03Rextacy
Figured I could put this here for you WRB owners. For light touch ups, Knicks or scratches, stumbled across this in my GFs stuff, seems to be a perfect match for my car, and haven't had any issues with it. I know touch up paint is hard to come by sometimes when you need it that second, so I just keep this in the detailing kit in the trunk. Yes, she's been looking for it, and no, she won't be getting it back. Lol

From the looks of it, it looks rough and blotchy, but it spreads perfectly to match our color.
Careful with nailpolish, it has the tendency to fade.. a lot faster than normal paint too. :/
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:42 PM   #218
03Rextacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starlightluvsu

Careful with nailpolish, it has the tendency to fade.. a lot faster than normal paint too. :/
Good to know. Haven't used any yet, just a color match observation.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:39 AM   #219
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Bring this to the top, been on a forum vacation. I have a good DIY coming soon.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:28 PM   #220
Osinski
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Being a painter, you may be biased to this question but here goes.

I'm considering matte white for my 2008 impreza. In your opinion, am I better off going to a paint shop or getting it vinyl wrapped? There is a great vinyl wrap place in the area. I have not yet researched paint shops.

For reference, I live in Utah near Salt Lake City.

Thanks in advance.

*Editted for spelling

Last edited by Osinski; 11-08-2012 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:42 AM   #221
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by Osinski
Being a painter, you may be biased to this question but here goes.

I'm considering matte white for my 2008 impreza. In your opinion, am I better off going to a paint shop or getting it vinyl wrapped? There is a great vinyl wrap place in the area. I have not yet researched paint shops.

For reference, I live in Utah near Salt Lake City.

Thanks in advance.

*Editted for spelling
No bias here, haha. There's pros and cons to each approach. What does it cost to wrap the entire car?

Wrapping the car wouldn't be permanent, and most likely less expensive.

I guess it really depends on your budget, and if you would be happy with a matte white for the duration of ownership. Matte white paint could also depreciate the value of the car greatly. If you ever planned on selling it you would be narrowing the field of prospective buyers.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:42 PM   #222
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Hey Matt,

I've done some research already, and most places said to do a full panel respray for my situation.

I just bought a high mileage 2000 2.5RS and there's a decently sized (1.5" OD) paint chip on my trunk, and two smaller quarter sized paint chips/flake on my rear quarter panels. I tried to feather out the lifting paint on my trunk first. I was able to get the surrounding edge of the paint flake super smooth. I used 220, then 320, and 400 grit sand paper to do so. I washed the area, let it dry, then used a tack rag to get any dust off. Here's my issue: When I laid my first light coat of etching primer from 12" away, the area I feathered started to wrinkle. I figured that I didn't sand it completed, so I redid everything, this time sanding even further out around the effected area. When I hit it again with etching primer, it wrinkled around the edge again.

Is my paint too old, or possibly thin, to be repaired? Before I attempted to work on the affected area I used my hose to rinse off the area; just letting it run down the panel. As I did, the paint would just flake off due to the [light] pressure of the water. Paint would even lift off from blue painter's masking tape... I'm afraid of working on the rear quarters because that's harder to replace. For the quarters, I plan on using some touch up paint and just leaving it alone. I might do some light sanding and shoot some clear on top.

Any tips on how to stop the feathered area from wrinkling? Maybe use a touch up pen instead of a spray can...?

I'm afraid to wash my car at the moment in fear of paint flaking off =(

Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:16 PM   #223
Osinski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
No bias here, haha. There's pros and cons to each approach. What does it cost to wrap the entire car?
The guy here told me a single color wrap, depending on the quality of the wrap, could go anywhere from 2800-4000, but he leaned towards the high end of that for a quality vinyl.

Honestly, this was more than I guessed it would be. I do like the idea of being able to peel the vinyl later though. Who wouldn't want some boss matte white though?
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:18 PM   #224
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Edit: It posted my reply twice. :bang head on wall:
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #225
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbochrgdRICE View Post
Hey Matt,

I've done some research already, and most places said to do a full panel respray for my situation.

I just bought a high mileage 2000 2.5RS and there's a decently sized (1.5" OD) paint chip on my trunk, and two smaller quarter sized paint chips/flake on my rear quarter panels. I tried to feather out the lifting paint on my trunk first. I was able to get the surrounding edge of the paint flake super smooth. I used 220, then 320, and 400 grit sand paper to do so. I washed the area, let it dry, then used a tack rag to get any dust off. Here's my issue: When I laid my first light coat of etching primer from 12" away, the area I feathered started to wrinkle. I figured that I didn't sand it completed, so I redid everything, this time sanding even further out around the effected area. When I hit it again with etching primer, it wrinkled around the edge again.

Is my paint too old, or possibly thin, to be repaired? Before I attempted to work on the affected area I used my hose to rinse off the area; just letting it run down the panel. As I did, the paint would just flake off due to the [light] pressure of the water. Paint would even lift off from blue painter's masking tape... I'm afraid of working on the rear quarters because that's harder to replace. For the quarters, I plan on using some touch up paint and just leaving it alone. I might do some light sanding and shoot some clear on top.

Any tips on how to stop the feathered area from wrinkling? Maybe use a touch up pen instead of a spray can...?

I'm afraid to wash my car at the moment in fear of paint flaking off =(

Thanks.
Sounds like you've done your homework. Are you bringing the affected area down to bare metal, then feathering out the existing base / clear? When you say light coats, how light are you talking?

If the clear is coming off with just normal water pressure there is an underlying problem. Has the quarters/ deck lid been repainted?

There is no sense in painting on top of a poor foundation, it will eventually flake off. Your best bet is stripping and starting fresh.
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