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Old 05-04-2012, 02:03 AM   #576
steelfire19
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+1 for Seth. I take all of my cars to him and won't take them anywhere else. I have tried to throw everything at him with my Evo and he has never let me down. Car runs like a champ. I drive 1hr each way to drop my stuff off and he's always around when i need updates. Not to mention he can beat almost every vendor price i can find.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:12 AM   #577
WRBWRX04
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Alright question for a tuner.
Im about to add a Blouch 16g-XT
Injectors 750cc
EBC

My main concern is once i put them on the car how safe is it to drive with out a tune?
Im looking at Driving roughly 3 hours about 190 miles away to SOCAL tunning to get a tune.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:42 AM   #578
boostmasterflex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX04
Alright question for a tuner.
Im about to add a Blouch 16g-XT
Injectors 750cc
EBC

My main concern is once i put them on the car how safe is it to drive with out a tune?
Im looking at Driving roughly 3 hours about 190 miles away to SOCAL tunning to get a tune.
I'd get a basemap emailed to you. Then I'd stay out of boost the whole drive.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:43 AM   #579
boostmasterflex
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I'm no tuner, that's just what mine had me do.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:36 PM   #580
P3Auto
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You must at least apply some injector adjustments to your tune. Then stay out of boost until you reach your tuner. I would not try driving without this, the car will run VERY rich and although it will self trim to a point at idle and cruise it will still be rich under most conditions.

Perhaps you can drive to the tuner then install the injectors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX04 View Post
Alright question for a tuner.
Im about to add a Blouch 16g-XT
Injectors 750cc
EBC

My main concern is once i put them on the car how safe is it to drive with out a tune?
Im looking at Driving roughly 3 hours about 190 miles away to SOCAL tunning to get a tune.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:15 AM   #581
TOlsenAK
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Question for Tuners in Alaska,
Is there anyone up there who does Speed Density tuning?
I might be moving up that way in the next few years, currently in Washington, tuned by Tim Bailey from Cobb Tuning, but looking to end up making it more of a monster later down the line, curious what there is for tuners in Alaska, and what sort of style of tuning shops run right now.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:20 PM   #582
P3Auto
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We offer speed density with most year Subarus. If you choose to use the cobb tuning system we support that as well.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:29 PM   #583
dvrmstrng
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Question: If the K&N Typhoon Intake uses the same diameter pipe and location for the MAF sensor why would the basic OTS Stage II Map not work the same as the stock box, aside from the fact it may be sucking warmer air.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:39 PM   #584
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I'm not sure without testing if that pipe will work ok or not. Typically they do need some fine tuning even with the stock diameter.

The quick and dirty answer is that the tubes have different aerodynamics basically. The air can hit the sensor from different directions and not be straight, there can also be turbulence at different air speeds. This is why some MAF tubes use an air straightener screen or mesh. There are other reasons as well but thats the idea.

If you change the MAF tube its always good practice to check your fuel trims and use a wide band to make sure your open loop fueling is still on target.

In terms of air temps the subaru MAF sensor has an air temp sensor as well that uses calculations in the tune to compensate for those temp changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvrmstrng View Post
Question: If the K&N Typhoon Intake uses the same diameter pipe and location for the MAF sensor why would the basic OTS Stage II Map not work the same as the stock box, aside from the fact it may be sucking warmer air.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:07 AM   #585
justinh
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Situation :
Just recently bought an 05 sti with an fp green (recently built motor + all supporting mods) that was tuned to hit 1.6 barr. The weather in my area is a bit cooler than where the car was tuned by the previous owner and have noticed that i am having spikes of overboosting around 1.7 1.75 barr in higher load situations (higher gears, even cooler weather, sometimes partially being on the throttle when shifting, etc). The car only has a MBC (hallman pro) and accordingly i turned down the controller approx a 1/2-3/4 turn to attempt to keep the boost down.

Immediately i noticed that the throttle is less sensitive and that there is more lag in building boost, yet i am still managing to reach 1.7+ barr

Questions:
1) why is it that despite turning down the controller i am still achieving the same boost levels?
2) is it normal to have the increased lag and decreased throttle response issues when turning down a MBC?
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:55 PM   #586
P3Auto
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Justin,
I will answer your questions the best I can but I will start off saying that using a MBC on a modern car that can be tuned easily is in my opinion not a good plan.

MBCs depending on how it has been plumbed into the system can cause all sorts of different results. Ultimately you can use them to set boost but temps, altitude, humidity, etc all will cause the boost to fluctuate.

So you mentioned that your seeing more lag slower response etc. My GUESS is that the wastegate actuator is seeing some signal prior to target boost being hit. In short the wastegate is cracking open too soon, this is causing slower spool and a feeling of lag or heavy throttle response. Again depending on how the MBC is actually in the system will make a difference it how it works and responds.

The way to solve your problems would be to install and tune a 3 port EBCS like a Grimmspeed one. Allowing the car to handle boost control will keep safety systems in place to protect the motor and will compensate for climate changes and always hit your targets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinh View Post
Situation :
Just recently bought an 05 sti with an fp green (recently built motor + all supporting mods) that was tuned to hit 1.6 barr. The weather in my area is a bit cooler than where the car was tuned by the previous owner and have noticed that i am having spikes of overboosting around 1.7 1.75 barr in higher load situations (higher gears, even cooler weather, sometimes partially being on the throttle when shifting, etc). The car only has a MBC (hallman pro) and accordingly i turned down the controller approx a 1/2-3/4 turn to attempt to keep the boost down.

Immediately i noticed that the throttle is less sensitive and that there is more lag in building boost, yet i am still managing to reach 1.7+ barr

Questions:
1) why is it that despite turning down the controller i am still achieving the same boost levels?
2) is it normal to have the increased lag and decreased throttle response issues when turning down a MBC?
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:43 PM   #587
justinh
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thank you P3 for the quick response
Since I posted the situation has evolved a bit more..... after researching / realizing these shortcoming of the MBC i wanted to try and reduce all the damage via oversboosting I could by completely loosening the MBC to reduce boost as much as possible before being able to switch to another setup ( hybrid etc ) and for some reason the boost is still just as high as when it was about 2 full rotations tighter.
is it possible that the tial 38mm just can't flow enough for the setup ( catless FP green ) since basically the MBC is turned completely down? I say this because the boost will taper back down to about 1.5 barr ( where it should be)

thanks again for your time and input, it is greatly appreciated
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:49 PM   #588
P3Auto
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Based on your response I am hearing you have an external waste gate. The opening pressure of the gate is set by the spring inside of it. So if its a 15psi spring (1bar aprox) then when the pressure on the signal line (vac hose from MBC) reaches 15psi it will open the gate.

If you would like to find the min pressure you can run simply run a vac line from the manifold or turbo to the side port of the EWG, this eliminates the boost control completely and runs "spring pressure". This will indicate the lowest boost you can run without changing the spring in the EWG.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:50 PM   #589
nasiocjunkie
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Purchased a complete brake setup from an 02 wrx with stainless steel braided lines, hawk hp pads, and rotors that have been resurfaced one time only. Inspected rotors and they look good. No warps or major damage. Should I resurface? And how many times can a rotor be resurfaced?
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Old 07-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #590
P3Auto
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Rotors can be resurfaced as long as they are within min spec thickness. When you take the rotors to have them resurfaced the shop is supposed to check the thickness and make sure the rotors would still be within spec after a resurface job.

Note that hawk pads tend to be noisy in terms of squeal or squeak.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655


Quote:
Originally Posted by nasiocjunkie View Post
Purchased a complete brake setup from an 02 wrx with stainless steel braided lines, hawk hp pads, and rotors that have been resurfaced one time only. Inspected rotors and they look good. No warps or major damage. Should I resurface? And how many times can a rotor be resurfaced?
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:11 PM   #591
SMOK3
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Hello, I was wondering if any extra gauges are required to be installed for a pro tune on an 09 stock wrx. If not required, would you recommend them?

I read about open source tuning and from what I've gathered so far is that its at least recommened having a boost gauge, egt gauge and a wb O2 sensor but what about having all the tuning and work done by you guys in your shop?

Last edited by SMOK3; 07-08-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:55 PM   #592
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If you have our shop do the tune we add all the gauges required for the session.

In terms of gauges the bare minimum in my opinion would be boost and oil pressure. Additionally I would add a wideband, then oil temp. Companies like PLX make a gauge that does all of the above on the same screen if you don't want to cover your dash in gauges.

P3 Import Autowerks
www.p3ia.com
907.355.6655 text or phone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOK3 View Post
Hello, I was wondering if any extra gauges are required to be installed for a pro tune on an 09 stock wrx. If not required, would you recommend them?

I read about open source tuning and from what I've gathered so far is that its at least recommened having a boost gauge, egt gauge and a wb O2 sensor but what about having all the tuning and work done by you guys in your shop?

Last edited by P3Auto; 07-09-2012 at 01:57 PM. Reason: forgot to sign
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:55 PM   #593
BoosterRooster
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Whats up guys, just got my 05 STi and it came with some mods. I wanted stock but couldnt pass up the deal i got. Everything is mostly suspension upgrades but it also has APS TBE, APS cold air intake, 890 cc injectors. Im assuming the fuel pump has been upgraded but not sure. My AP is on its way, should be here tomorrow and was wondering something. My fuel injectors seem a little large for a stock turbo and i can tell its running rich, Will a good tuner be able to control this or should I go ahead and get a bigger turbo before its tuned? Or is there anything else I can do to help keep it from running so rich?? I know i need to tune it asap so any info would be great, prolly wont have the money to get a bigger turbo for at least a couple months.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:03 PM   #594
P3Auto
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A few things here. Don't make a very costly mistake just putting a Cobb tune on this car. If you have these 890cc injectors on them then I have to assume the car is already tuned to some degree. If you had those injectors in the car without a tune I doubt it would run for long beyond idle. If you want to use the Cobb you must have a tuner make you a tune to go with your mods. There is no choice on this.

In terms of tuning those injectors that will not be an issue for a good tuner to do. They are big injectors for a stock turbo and you will NEVER max them out however they are still within range to run properly for you so leaning out the car should be a no brainer for your tuner. Keep in mind that under WOT depending on the fuel and tune you may see some black fuel smoke. Many tunes run low 10:1 AFR which is just barely above visible smoke ratios. Any dip into the 9:1 AFR range and you will definitely see smoke. This typically occurs during shifts or rolling onto the throttle (known as tip-in) this can also be adjusted in your ECU to compensate for the larger injectors.

Be careful out there and keep an eye on those oil levels!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoosterRooster View Post
Whats up guys, just got my 05 STi and it came with some mods. I wanted stock but couldnt pass up the deal i got. Everything is mostly suspension upgrades but it also has aps TBE, APS cold air intake, 890 cc injectors. Im assuming the fuel pump has been upgraded but not sure. My AP is on its way should be here tomorrow and was wondering something. My fuel seem a little large for a stock turbo and i can tell its running rich, Will a good tuner be able to control this or should I go ahead and get a bigger turbo before its tuned? Or is there anything else I can do to help keep it from running so rich?? I know i need to tune it asap so any info would be great, prolly wont have the money to get a bigger turbo for at least a couple months.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:48 PM   #595
BoosterRooster
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Cool thanks for the input, I was just asking because one tuner I called told me they were to big and he wouldn't be able to get them with in range. I thought it sounded like crap so I figured I would ask on here. Tough trying to find a good tuner around here.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #596
Luis Franco
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2011 with Invidia N1 Race, Cobb AP Stage 1+, & Cobb Intake.

Just bought a Catless downpipe,

1. How fan can i safely drive with just the Stage 2 Map from Cobb
2. What are the chances i would need so sort of extra boost control because of the catless DP (EBC, EWG, etc?)


I want to buy everything i need beforehand, since my nearest tuner with a Dyno is 6 hours away, (San Antonio, TX)
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:24 PM   #597
P3Auto
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Based on what your telling me it sounds like with a Cobb stage 2 map you should be fine indefinitely. You have not listed any parts or mods that would cause an issue with that tune.

If you want to drive it safely to the tuner then simply stay in cruise (closed loop) modes. In other words stay out of boost shift under 5k rpm and drive normal. These cars are able to self tune to a point at low loads and out of boost.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Franco View Post
2011 with Invidia N1 Race, Cobb AP Stage 1+, & Cobb Intake.

Just bought a Catless downpipe,

1. How fan can i safely drive with just the Stage 2 Map from Cobb
2. What are the chances i would need so sort of extra boost control because of the catless DP (EBC, EWG, etc?)


I want to buy everything i need beforehand, since my nearest tuner with a Dyno is 6 hours away, (San Antonio, TX)
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:40 PM   #598
Luis Franco
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Thanks as far as probability of boost creep issues occuring?

Would i be better of just geting a Uppipe and EWG alltoghether?

Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
Based on what your telling me it sounds like with a Cobb stage 2 map you should be fine indefinitely. You have not listed any parts or mods that would cause an issue with that tune.

If you want to drive it safely to the tuner then simply stay in cruise (closed loop) modes. In other words stay out of boost shift under 5k rpm and drive normal. These cars are able to self tune to a point at low loads and out of boost.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:46 PM   #599
P3Auto
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The only way to know if your going to have a boost creep issue with your setup is to tune it and see what happens. So far I have not seen this happen with your year STI. If it does occur then you must port the internal wastegate, go with EWG, or add some restriction back to the exhaust...

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655
www.p3ia.com



Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Franco View Post
Thanks as far as probability of boost creep issues occuring?

Would i be better of just geting a Uppipe and EWG alltoghether?
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:54 AM   #600
impreza09
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So I recently had my Intake and Exhaust installed and was told that I should chip it uhm is that the same as tuning? & is it required so it won't ruin the car?
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